为什么冬季仍需防晒
克里斯汀·西雷特: 你目前对试用过的含有这种新成分的防晒霜感觉怎么样?我觉得它就是防晒霜,而且我很高兴它的存在。我是克里斯汀·西雷特(Christine Sirette)。我是凯拉·布莱克威尔(Kyra Blackwell),您收听的是 Wirecutter 节目。凯拉,我们今天要聊聊我们最喜欢的话题之一,也是你和我最爱的主题。
英文原文
Christine Sirette: What do you think so far about the ones that you have tried with this new ingredient? I think it's sunscreen and I'm excited it exists. I'm Christine Sirette. I'm Kyra Blackwell and you're listening to the Wire Cutter Show. Kyra, we are hitting one of our favorite topics. You and my favorite topic today.
凯拉·布莱克威尔: 哦,防晒霜。
英文原文
Kyra Blackwell: Oh, sunscreen.
克里斯汀·西雷特: 没错,防晒霜。我觉得经常收听我们节目的听众肯定非常清楚,在冬天也应该涂防晒霜,你觉得呢?
英文原文
Christine Sirette: Sunscreen. I think that people who listen to this show regularly absolutely know that they should be wearing sunscreen in the winter, don't you think?
凯拉·布莱克威尔: 是的,百分之百赞同。
英文原文
Kyra Blackwell: Yeah, 100%.
克里斯汀·西雷特: 但我觉得很多人可能心里明白这一点,实际上却没有做到。
英文原文
Christine Sirette: But I think a lot of people maybe know this, but they don't do it.
凯拉·布莱克威尔: 这确实挺难的,尤其是天气变冷的时候,大家往往会觉得:‘我其实在户外待的时间并不多,既然可以省掉这一步,为什么还要在护肤流程里多加一层呢?’
英文原文
Kyra Blackwell: It's hard because especially when it gets colder, you're like, I'm not really spending that much time outside. Like why add that extra step to my routine if I can skip it?
克里斯汀·西雷特: 好的。你实际上为 Wirecutter 测试和评测了很长时间的防晒霜。告诉我原因吧,为什么大家在冬天也应该涂防晒霜?
英文原文
Christine Sirette: Okay. You actually tested and reviewed sunscreen for wire cutter for a long time. Tell me why. Why should the people be wearing sunscreen in the winter?
凯拉·布莱克威尔: 首先,从爱美和抗衰老的角度来说,它依然能保护你免受紫外线伤害。你可能会感到惊讶,在冬季,你暴露在阳光下的任何皮肤部位依然会受到紫外线的侵害。所以,坚持一年四季都涂防晒霜是一种良好的卫生护肤习惯。
英文原文
Kyra Blackwell: Well, for vanity reasons first. It still protects you from the sun. You'd be surprised. In the winter time, any parts of your skin that are exposed to the sun are still being affected. So, it's just good hygiene to continue wearing your sunscreen all year round.
克里斯汀·西雷特: 一年四季都要涂。好的。我们之前做过一期关于防晒霜的节目。今天我们请到了聊这个话题最合适的人选回到节目中——南希·雷德(Nancy Redd)。她是健康报道团队的记者,测评过无数种不同类型的防晒霜。今天她将全面深入地为我们讲解关于面部防晒霜必须了解的一切。听众朋友们可以回顾之前和她一起录制的那期关于身体防晒的节目,但面部防晒霜尤其有一些独特之处,大家了解之后才能选到真正心仪的产品。
凯拉·布莱克威尔: 没错。稍后广告之后,我们将请回南希·雷德,一起畅聊她最喜欢的面部防晒霜。
英文原文
Christine Sirette: All year round. Okay. Well, we have done an episode on sunscreen before. We have maybe the best person to talk about this on the show today. We're going to bring back Nancy Red. She is a health reporter on our health team and she has reviewed so many different types of sunscreen and she's going to really cover what it is about face sunscreen that you need to know because you can go back and listen to the old episode we did with her on on body sunscreen, but there are some things that are different about facial sunscreens in particular that you might want to know in order to get one that you really like. That's right. So after the break, we'll be back with Nancy Red to talk all about her favorite facial sunscreens.
克里斯汀·西雷特: 听众朋友们,我们还想在正在制作的另一期节目中听到大家的声音。我们正在征集有关‘家庭日常争论’的故事。你和你的伴侣或室友在什么事情上有分歧?我们将邀请 Wirecutter 的专家们来一锤定音。请将您那些令人苦恼的争论描述发送至 wirecutter.com 的 Wire Cutter Show。
好的,稍后南希马上回来。欢迎回来!现在做客节目的是在 Wirecutter 负责健康与个人护理领域的南希·雷德。她之前曾做客节目与我们畅聊身体防晒霜、牙刷以及光疗灯,她同时也是纽约时报畅销健康作家,最近刚刚出版了针对青少年的新书《真实身体手册:健康与全面指南》(The Real Body Manual)。南希在 Wirecutter 报道防晒霜已有6年多了。南希,欢迎回到节目!
南希·雷德: 谢谢!我太喜欢来这里了。你们太棒了,这实在太有趣了,这是我最喜欢聊的话题之一。
英文原文
Christine Sirette: And listeners, we also want to hear from you for another episode we're working on. We are collecting stories of household debates. What is the thing that you and your partner or roommate disagree on? We will bring Wire Cutter experts on to settle the score once and for all. Send a description of your irksome debates to the Wire Cutter Show at wirecutter.com. Okay, we'll be right back with Nancy. Welcome back. With us now is Nancy Red, who covers health and personal care at Wire Cutter. She's joined us before to talk about body sunscreens, toothbrushes, and light therapy lamps. And she's also a New York Times bestselling health author. and she recently published her latest book for teens. It's called The Real Body Manual, your visual guide to health and wellness. Nancy has been covering sunscreens at Wire Cutter for over 6 years. Nancy, welcome back to the show. Thank you. I love being here. You guys are the best and this is so much fun. It's one of my favorite topics to talk about.
破除防晒常见误区
南希·雷德: 首先我必须说,我真的很嫉妒,因为今天你和凯拉坐在同一个房间里,而我人在纽约。你们今天在洛杉矶,我隔着整个国家,我内心非常非常羡慕,因为我现在真心更想待在洛杉矶。
英文原文
Nancy Redd: Well, I got to say, first of all, that I'm very jealous because you and Kyra are in the same room today and I am in New York. So, you guys are in LA today and I'm all the way across the country and I'm deeply deeply jealous because I would rather be in LA right now.
凯拉·布莱克威尔: 我们这里的氛围棒极了。
英文原文
Kyra Blackwell: The vibes are immaculate in here.
克里斯汀·西雷特: 气氛正在热烈拉满。
英文原文
Christine Sirette: The vibes are vibing.
南希·雷德: 这里的氛围感觉也更适合聊防晒霜。洛杉矶听起来就是绝对应该涂防晒霜的地方,对吧?
英文原文
Nancy Redd: The vibes also seem better for talking about sunscreen. That just seems like where you should be wearing sunscreen is LA. Am I right?
克里斯汀·西雷特: 不管在哪里,你都应该涂防晒霜。你是不是想套路我,CCC?因为你最清楚防晒是一年四季、无处不在的。
英文原文
Christine Sirette: Well, you should be wearing sunscreen everywhere. Were you trying to trick me, CCC? Because you of all people know sunscreen is around the year.
南希·雷德: 我知道,我只是在故意装糊涂,因为大家都知道我甚至睡觉都恨不得涂防晒霜。去年我们和你聊过身体防晒霜,今天我们觉得玩个小测试会很有趣,看看凯拉和我还能记住上次聊天的多少内容。你准备好给我们出对错判断题了吗?
南希·雷德: 我完全准备好给你们出判断题了。好的,第一题,先来个简单的:SPF 代表防晒系数(Sun Protection Factor),对还是错?
英文原文
Nancy Redd: I know I'm being very koi because you you know that I wear sunscreen like to bed. So, we already talked to you about body sunscreens last year, and we thought it would be fun for you to quiz us to see how much Kyra and I remember from that last conversation. So, are you ready to give us a true or false quiz? I am absolutely ready to give you a true or false quiz. Okay, so true or false. Step one, I'm going to give you an easy one to begin with. SPF stands for sun protection factor.
凯拉·布莱克威尔: 正确。我认为是正确,对的。
英文原文
Kyra Blackwell: True. I'm going to say true. Yeah.
南希·雷德: 回答正确。好的,防晒系数。上面的数字实际上告诉你,无论是 SPF 10、15、30 还是 90,它代表的是防晒霜抵御 UVB 紫外线的能力。你们还记得我们上次提到的小窍门吗?UVA 里的 A 代表什么?UVB 里的 B 又代表什么?凯拉,你还记得 A 代表什么吗?
英文原文
Nancy Redd: Yes. Okay. sun protection factor. And the number actually tells you when you have like an SPF 10 or 15 or 30 or 90 or whatever, it tells you how well the sunscreen's protecting against UVB rays. And do you remember our trick from last time? What does the A in UVA stand for? And what does the B for UVB stand for? Do you remember what the A is, Kyra?
凯拉·布莱克威尔: 这可不是填空题啊!我记不太清了……但我记得 A 代表老化(Aging)。
英文原文
Kyra Blackwell: Not a fill-in- thelank question. That's I can't remember. I remember the A stands for aging.
南希·雷德: 没错,还有呢?
英文原文
Nancy Redd: Okay?
南希·雷德: B 代表晒伤(Burning)。因此,UVA 和 UVB 射线都会损伤你的皮肤。SPF 指数关乎的是皮肤是否会被晒伤,以及假以时日是否会引发后续的健康医学问题。
英文原文
Nancy Redd: And the B is for burning. So both UVA and UVB rays can damage your skin. SPF is about will it burn your skin and cause medical issues hypothetically down the road.
克里斯汀·西雷特: 明白。好的。那么下一题:广谱防晒霜(Broad-spectrum)只防御 UVA 射线,对还是错?
英文原文
Christine Sirette: Yeah. Okay. All right. Broadspectctrum sunscreen only protects against UVA rays. True or false?
凯拉·布莱克威尔: 错误。
英文原文
Kyra Blackwell: False.
克里斯汀·西雷特: 完全正确。对的。
英文原文
Christine Sirette: That's right. Right.
凯拉·布莱克威尔: 之所以叫‘广谱’,是因为它同时覆盖了抗老化(A)和防晒伤(B),对吧?
英文原文
Kyra Blackwell: Broad because it's covering aging and burning, right?
南希·雷德: 瞧瞧你,答得太漂亮了!
英文原文
Nancy Redd: Ho, look at you.
南希·雷德: 叮咚!答对了。是的。尽管 SPF 指数本身只衡量对 UVB 射线的防护能力,但当你看到防晒霜标明具有‘广谱’防护时,意味着它能同时抵御 UVA 和 UVB 两种射线,而这正是我们真正需要的。
英文原文
Nancy Redd: Ding, ding, ding. Yes. Even though SPF is only talking about UVB rays, when you see a sunscreen that is marketed as broadsp spectrum, it protects both against UVA and UVB rays, which is what you want.
凯拉·布莱克威尔: 收到,明白了。
英文原文
Kyra Blackwell: Got it.
南希·雷德: 好的。皮肤科医生推荐的最低防晒指数是 SPF 30,对还是错?
英文原文
Nancy Redd: Okay. The minimum SPF recommended by dermatologists is 30.
克里斯汀·西雷特: 正确。
英文原文
Christine Sirette: True.
凯拉·布莱克威尔: 正确。
英文原文
Kyra Blackwell: True.
南希·雷德: 回答完全正确!我很高兴你们还记得我们之前的对话,希望收音机前跟着一起答题的听众也能记住。在我们之前关于防晒的讨论中强调过,皮肤科医生推荐的两大核心原则就是:SPF 30 或更高,以及必须具备广谱防护。
好,接下来这道题比较有迷惑性:防晒指数(SPF)越高,重新补涂防晒霜的间隔时间就可以越长。对还是错?
凯拉·布莱克威尔: 错误。
英文原文
Nancy Redd: Correct. I'm happy that you remember our previous conversation and hopefully you playing along at home. Also remember that in our previous conversation about sunscreen in general, SPF 30 or higher and broadsp spectrum are the big two that dermatologists recommend. All right, this is a tricky one. The higher the SPF, the longer you can go without reapplying sunscreen. True or false? False.
物理防晒与化学防晒
南希·雷德: 通常来说,SPF 指数的高低与重新补涂的时间毫无关系。瓶身上的补涂说明一般是每 2 小时涂抹一次,或者在剧烈出汗、用毛巾擦拭之后需要补涂 80 分钟,具体取决于你的活动情况,请根据实际场景做出最佳判断。
克里斯汀·西雷特: 明白了。好的。判断题:物理矿物防晒霜与化学防晒霜的工作原理存在根本性的不同。对还是错?
凯拉·布莱克威尔: 正确。
南希·雷德: 是的,答对了。化学防晒霜含有吸收紫外线光线的活性成分,而矿物防晒霜则是反射紫外线。因此,说到矿物防晒霜时,它往往更容易在脸上留下所谓的‘泛白假白’(White cast),因为它就像一面物理小盾牌一样起效。所以如果你想辨别什么是矿物防晒、什么是化学防晒,只需把瓶子翻过来查看有效成分表:如果你看到氧化锌(Zinc oxide)、二氧化钛(Titanium dioxide)或者两者兼有,那就是矿物防晒霜;如果你看到其他防晒有效成分,那就是化学防晒霜。通过有效成分就能清楚知道你买到的到底是什么。
英文原文
Nancy Redd: Generally speaking, SPF doesn't have anything to do with reapplication. The reapplication directions are on the bottle every 2 hours or 80 minutes or after heavy sweating, toweling off, uh where whatever your activities are, use your best judgment. Got it. Okay. True or false? Mineral sunscreens and chemical sunscreens work in fundamentally different ways. True. Yes. Okay. Chemical sunscreens contain active ingredients that absorb UV light and mineral sunscreens reflect UV rays. So when you talk about the mineral sunscreen, it's more often that it has the quote unquote bite cast. Uh because it is acting like a like a little shield. So if you want to know the difference between what is a mineral sunscreen and what is a chemical sunscreen, you just flip the bottle over and you look at the active ingredients. If you see zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, or both, that's a mineral sunscreen. And if you see other sunscreen activives, that is a chemical sunscreen. So the active ingredients will tell you what you're actually getting
凯拉·布莱克威尔: 而且它们在防护效果上是同样有效的。
英文原文
Kyra Blackwell: and they're both equally effective.
南希·雷德: 是的。这完全取决于你个人的偏好和价值观,以及你对产品在妆感上是否‘肤感优雅’(Cosmetically elegant)有多大的追求。
英文原文
Nancy Redd: Yeah. I mean it just depends on what you personally want in your personal values and also how interested you are in a cosmetically elegant product
身体与面部防晒区别
南希·雷德: 因为矿物防晒霜往往容易留下一层发灰发白的痕迹,毕竟它们是作为物理屏障起效的。在近7年的防晒测评、经过数百张不同面孔的测试中,如果说我学到了什么,那就是由于每个人的皮肤都截然不同,所有的防晒霜在不同人身上的表现差异巨大。有些人皮肤极度干燥,他们反而喜欢矿物防晒霜,因为矿物防晒基本上就像润肤滋润剂,充满水润保湿感;而另一些人则受不了某些化学防晒霜,觉得像浮了一层油光,因为它们的质地类似于妆前乳。每个人的脸和身体都是独一无二的,但通常而言,矿物防晒霜更厚重、肤感没那么精致优雅,不过我们选出的推荐款并不属于这种情况。
克里斯汀·西雷特: 南希,你在指南中提到身体防晒霜完全可以用在脸上。如果这是真的,为什么大家还要考虑专门为脸部单独买一款防晒霜呢?
南希·雷德: 所有防晒霜在任何部位都能通用,防晒霜是可以互换的。婴儿防晒霜成年人可以用,儿童防晒霜成年人可以用,儿童防晒霜婴儿可以用,成人防晒霜婴儿也可以用——尽管成人款有时含有某些人想避免用在婴儿娇嫩皮肤上的香精。身体和面部防晒也是同样的道理,对吧?它们是可以互换通用的。
区别在于,通常来说,你手臂上的皮肤对乳液、润肤剂或防晒霜的质地要求没那么挑剔。而对于你的脸部,出汗更多,完全暴露在外,而且往往还会叠加一层彩妆或其他护肤品,这些都会与防晒霜产生相互反应。这就是为什么面部防晒霜往往比身体防晒霜贵得多的原因——因为它的配方经过了精心调整,添加了许多细腻成分。身体防晒霜往往香精味道更重,通常不会采用那些昂贵而肤感高雅的成分,因为正是那些成分拉高了售价。不过我们也有几款身体防晒霜,涂在脸上体感非常舒适,即使含有香味,大家也乐于全身使用。
克里斯汀·西雷特: 假设现在是冬天,你全身裹得严严实实:手套、大衣、长裤、靴子,唯独脸部露在外面。这时候你的脸部需要涂多少防晒霜?
南希·雷德: 这时候你通常需要四分之一茶匙(1/4 teaspoon)的用量。没有人会专门拿着小量勺站在镜子前量,但千万别以为在冬天就不需要涂抹并保护好你露出来的脸蛋。讽刺的是,冬天的紫外线反光格外刺眼,你们都知道在雪地里阳光反射有多厉害……
英文原文
Nancy Redd: because the mineral sunscreens do tend to often leave like a a kind of like a pasty or ashy look because they are acting as that shield. Yes. If there's one thing I have learned in almost seven years of sunscreen testing with hundreds of faces, because everyone's skin is so different, all sunscreens operate in such different ways. You some people have really dry skin and they love a mineral sunscreen because it's it's just basically like an emoleant. It's like a moisturizing goodness. Uh whereas other people can't stand certain chemical sunscreens because it feels like an oil slick because they are like makeup primer. So every face, every body is different, but generally speaking, minerals are heavier and less cosmetically elegant, but not our picks. Nancy, you mentioned in your guide that body sunscreen is perfectly fine to use for your face. And if that's true, why would somebody consider buying a whole separate sunscreen just for their face? All sunscreen can be used everywhere. Sunscreen is interchangeable. Baby sunscreen can be used by adults. Kids sunscreen can be used by adults. Kids sunscreen can be used by babies. Adult sunscreen can be used by babies. Though sometimes it contains fragrances that people just want to avoid putting on a baby's skin. And the same goes for body and face, right? They're interchangeable. The difference is your arm generally speaking is less picky about the type of lotion or emollient or sunscreen that you put on it. Whereas with your face, you're sweating more. It's visible. It often has a layer of makeup or something else that can interact with the sunscreen. Which is why face sunscreen tends to be so much more expensive than body sunscreen because it is formulated differently with a lot of stuff. Body sunscreens tend to be more heavily fragranced. They tend to not utilize the more expensive, elegant ingredients because that's what jacks the prices up. We have body sunscreens that we find to be very comfortable on the face. Even though they are fragranced, people tend to like them for all over. Let's say it's winter, you're wearing literally gloves, coat, pants, boots, but your face is uncovered. How much sunscreen do you apply there? That's usually when you have a a quarter of a teaspoon, okay? Uh that you need. No one's standing there. I mean, I have no one's standing there with a little measuring device. But do not think in winter that you do not need to cover your little face because ironically, the sun rays glare. You know, you've all been in the snow and
克里斯汀·西雷特: 我不信你们见过雪,我觉得你们就是生活在洛杉矶美丽阳光世界里的人。
英文原文
Christine Sirette: I don't believe you guys have. I believe you're just living in a beautiful world in LA. And this
凯拉·布莱克威尔: 我可是来自弗吉尼亚南部,小时候我们也是经历过大雪停课日的!所以我去过雪地,也被雪地上的刺眼阳光眩晕过。
英文原文
Kyra Blackwell: Well, I am from southern Virginia and we did get our snow days in the in my youth. So, I've been there and have been blinded by the sun and the snow.
防晒与化妆搭配法则
克里斯汀·西雷特: 还有一件容易让人困惑的事情是面部防晒与化妆。有时候彩妆产品本身就已经自带了 SPF 防晒系数。如果彩妆已经含有防晒值,我们是否还需要单独涂抹专门的防晒霜呢?
南希·雷德: 这个问题有太多的层级需要剖析了,绝非一句话那么简单。彩妆非常棒的一点在于,赋予化妆品色泽的氧化铁成分本身就是一种非常出色的防晒保护屏障,能切实防止色素沉着以及容易留下斑印的皮肤问题。但是,含有 SPF 的彩妆、有色面霜或者无论你怎么称呼它的产品,其核心问题在于:作为额外的补充防护它是完美的,但如果你要走到户外真实世界中,将它作为主要防晒手段是远远不够的。当然,如果你是个一整天足不出户的‘办公室穴居人’,可能不用太担心;但如果你生活在城市里,午休要出门走动就餐并暴露在阳光下,你就必须有一层专用的基础面部防晒霜作为打底。
因为要达到推荐的防晒保护效果,你不可能在脸上涂抹足够多的有色面霜或带防晒值的粉底——那会变得像面具一样厚重斑驳,没人想往脸上糊满整整四分之一茶匙厚厚的一层粉底!正因如此,我们强烈建议先在面部涂上一层质地轻薄透气、专门的面部防晒霜,让它充分被吸收成膜,然后再将彩妆或有色面霜里的 SPF 作为一种额外的奖励保护加持。
克里斯汀·西雷特: 为了彻底讲清楚,当我们做护肤流程再接着化妆时,正确的顺序是:保湿面霜(通常是我护肤的最后一步),然后涂 SPF 防晒霜,最后再上妆,对吗?
南希·雷德: 没错!如果你使用保湿面霜,面霜先上,然后涂抹基础防晒霜,涂完后让它静置吸收片刻,因为你绝不希望出现搓泥(Peeling)现象——也就是护肤品在脸上搓出屑状浮渣……
英文原文
Christine Sirette: Something else that can also be confusing is face sunscreen and makeup. But sometimes that makeup will have SPF already built into it. So, do you still need a separate sunscreen if that's the case? So, there's so many layers, no pun intended, to this. But one of the cool things about makeup is that the iron oxides that make makeup makeup is a is a type of sun protection that really prevents hyperpigmentation and a lot of issues that people with easily marked skin deal with. But the problem with makeup with SPF or tinted moisturizer or whatever nomenclature you want to use for that is it's a perfect extra protection. But as a primary sunscreen for someone who goes into the world, again, if you're like an office cave dweller, you don't have to worry about this as much. But if you're in a city, if you go out for lunch, right, and you're in the sun, you want to have a base of a primary face sunscreen because in order to get the SPF protection that is recommended, you're not going to be able to put on enough tinted moisturizer or makeup with SPF because it'll be cakey. No one wants to spackle on a/4 teaspoon of foundation on their face, which is why we recommend a nice lightweight dedicated sunscreen on your face, let that soak in, and then the SPF in makeup or tinted moisturizer as a bonus. So, just to be extra clear, when you're doing your skin care and then you're doing your makeup, is the correct order, your moisturizer, which is usually like my last step in my skincare routine, then your SPF, and then your makeup. Yeah. So, if you use that moisturizer, that goes first and then your basic sunscreen and then let that absorb for a little bit because you don't want peeling, which is when you know things start rolling
凯拉·布莱克威尔: 因为毕竟你花了这么多钱买面部防晒霜……
英文原文
Kyra Blackwell: because if you're spending this much money on a facial sunscreen,
南希·雷德: ……你肯定希望它能完美融入日常护肤流程,不搓泥、不掉皮、不起皮斑驳。防晒霜就像油漆一样,你需要涂抹均匀的一层底漆,让它充分干透成膜固定,然后再刷上一层漆。如果你愿意,最后一层可以是带 SPF 的有色面霜或彩妆。
克里斯汀·西雷特: 我想聊聊具体的测试过程。是谁在为我们测评这些面部防晒霜?我猜应该涵盖了非常广泛的人群受众,比如不同肤色、不同肤质问题的人,但我很想听听更多细节。
英文原文
Nancy Redd: hopefully it becomes an integral part of your skincare routine without peeling or flaking or creating patches. And that's because you want it to be like paint. You want a good even coat. You want to let it set before you add another coat. And that final coat if desired will be a tinted moisturizer or makeup with SPF. I want to talk a little bit about the testing. Who has tested the face sunscreens for us? I'm assuming it's going to be like a broad category of people like people of different skin tones and different skin issues and stuff, but I I want to hear more.
盲测评估与新成分
南希·雷德: 形形色色的许多人都收到过我寄出的令人惊喜的‘神秘防晒测评盒’。我们遮挡掩盖了所有的品牌标志,确保由各类人群进行严格盲测。刚才凯拉还在问我:‘听说你最近正在测试一款非常激动人心的新防晒,你今天带来了吗?’我说我没带,因为那款防晒还不配抹在你美丽的脸蛋上!
对于能够进入盲测小组评审的产品我非常挑剔,绝不浪费任何人的宝贵时间,也为了对所有需要涂防晒的各类人群负责——事实上每个人都需要涂防晒。因此我们极其谨慎地挑选了不同年龄段、有着不同类型胡须的人、只涂防晒霜完事的极简人群,或者像凯拉这样护肤有着一万五千道复杂工序的人。甚至你耳朵与眼睛之间是否有容易积线的细纹,都会测试产品是否会卡在纹路里。
而且我们遮蔽了所有品牌信息。我特别喜欢在神秘盲测盒里放一款来自沃尔玛(Walmart)的防晒霜。每次盲测遮蔽品牌时,所有人试用后都惊呼:‘天哪,这肯定是某家昂贵的贵妇品牌!’我问大家对它的评价,大家都说:‘太好用了,我很喜欢!’然后我揭晓:‘如果我告诉你们它每盎司只要 37 美分呢?’
克里斯汀·西雷特: 你必须揭晓这款防晒霜的名字,但请留到节目最后,确保大家能聚精会神听到最后一秒!
英文原文
Nancy Redd: Many many people of many types have received my delightful boxes of mystery sunscreens. We conceal all the brands. We make sure that they are tested by all kinds of people. Cyro is asking, "I have a sunscreen I'm working on right now. It's very exciting." She's like, "Did you bring it?" I was like, "I did not bring it because this sunscreen, it's it's not worth it's not worthy of your beautiful skin." Uh, I'm very particular about what makes it to panel to make sure that I'm not wasting anyone's time and that we're doing justice to the types of people, the many types of people who need to wear sunscreen, which is everybody. Uh, and so we're very careful to have different ages, different people with different types of facial hair, people who is sunscreen and that's it, or people like Kyra who have 15,000 steps to their routine and different ages. Do you have creases between your ear and your eye that need to not have product layered in them? And then we conceal all the brands. I have this sunscreen I love including in my mystery sunscreen panels because it's from Walmart. And every time I do it concealed, everyone's like, "Oh, this must be the insert expensive brand." And I was like I'm just like, "Well, what is your take on it?" Like, "I love this. I love this." I'm like, "What if I told you it's 37 cents an ounce? You need to reveal this sunscreen, but not until the end of this episode so that we make sure everyone listens to the very last second.
南希·雷德: 不不不,客观来说,它不是我心目中面部防晒的最佳选择。好的,但是任何涂面部防晒的人同样需要身体防晒,我极力主张大家给它一个机会。我们在节目尾声会详细聊聊它。
不过盲测真的很令人兴奋,因为测试者在完全不知道品牌和价格的情况下,纯粹评估它的延展性、抹开难易程度、肤感、气味、与皮肤的融合度、是否搓泥,以及最关键的:在整天带妆活动中表现究竟如何。我需要实地测试者。在最终入围阶段,几位蓄有胡须的测试员正好要去参加一个大型户外展会,他们问能不能带上这些样品去真正的户外‘实战’测评?这极大地帮助我们锁定了最终的推荐名单。因为无论是蓄胡须者还是刮得干干净净的人,甚至头顶没有头发的光头人群,都对这款防晒在全天候高强度、烈日炎炎的环境下的持久表现赞不绝口。所以这绝不是我一个人关在浴室里自封为‘防晒霜最高法院大法官’,而是大家的集体智慧,这是一个民主评估的过程。
凯拉·布莱克威尔: 现在我想深入了解一下你们是如何测试这些全新防晒霜的。最近关于一种刚被美国 FDA 批准用于防晒霜的新有效成分引发了很大轰动,据说这是25年来 FDA 首次批准新的防晒活性成分!南希,它到底是什么?为什么这么特别?
南希·雷德: 这个成分其实已经在全球许多国家的防晒霜中安全使用了很长时间,如今终于在美国获批,它的名字叫 Bimotrizinol(双-乙基己氧苯酚甲氧苯基三嗪),我习惯简称为 BMT。CCC 对它肯定了如指掌,因为这肯定就是她私下代购海淘的防晒霜里的核心成分之一。
英文原文
Nancy Redd: No, no, to be fair, it's not my favorite for face. Okay, but we but it is anybody wearing face sunscreen needs body sunscreen, too. And I implore everyone to give this one a shot. We will talk about it at the end, but it's really fun cuz everyone's basically evaluating with no idea of brand name or cost, how easily it rubs in, how it feels, how it smells, how well it blends into their skin, does it peel, and also most importantly, how does it wear throughout the day? I need people in the field. Some of the final contenders, a couple of people with facial hair were going to a big trade show that was outdoors. There's like, can I take these with me and test them literally in literally in the field? And that really helped solidify our new pics because people with facial hair and people without facial hair, people who did not have hair on top of their head, loved this for how it wore throughout the day in a strenuous and very sunny environment. So, it's not just me sitting in my bathroom declaring myself Supreme Court Justice of sunscreen. It's everybody. This is a democratic process. Now, I want to hear more about how you're testing these new sunscreens because there's been a buzz around a new active ingredient that was recently approved for sunscreens in the US by the FDA. And apparently, this is the first time in 25 years that this has happened, like a new ingredient has been approved. So, what is it, Nancy, and what is so special about it? Well, it is an ingredient that has been in use in sunscreens around the world for a very long time and finally was approved here called Bimotisenol. I like to say BMT and CCC knows all about it because I'm sure it's one of the ingredients in one of her smuggled sunscreens.
克里斯汀·西雷特: 是啊,如果听众没有听过我们之前的防晒节目可能不知道,我平时非常喜欢在脸上涂韩国防晒霜。很多时候这些在技术上并未获准在美国直接销售。为什么亚洲和欧洲部分地区的防晒霜要好得多呢?那里的防晒有效成分要先进得多,防护更高效,而且配方质地在皮肤上的触感和视觉效果都要轻盈美妙得多。为什么我们过去一直无法在美国合法买到这些产品呢?
英文原文
Christine Sirette: Yeah, if listeners have have not listened to our other sunscreen episode, you wouldn't know, but I really like to wear Korean sunscreen on my face. often these are not technically legal to be sold in the US. Why are the sunscreens in parts of Asia and Europe so much better? There are so many more active ingredients that are more current, that are more effective, that also these formulations just feel better and look better on your skin. So, why do we not have access to these?
南希·雷德: 你肯定想问:‘到底卡在哪一步了?’
英文原文
Nancy Redd: You're like, what's the holdup?
南希·雷德: 是的。阻碍在于美国有一套既定的严格审批流程必须执行完毕,而如今针对 BMT 这一成分终于走完了审批流程,美国市场正开始逐步引入这一全新成分。从我目前掌握的科学信息来看,这些新成分并不是作为单一独立的防晒剂存在,所以你永远不可能买到一款‘100% 纯 BMT’的防晒霜。但这就好比往汤里撒一把香菜一样,将 BMT 添加到防晒霜(尤其是面部防晒霜)中,能够极大提升配方的光稳定性和精致优雅的肤感,因为这意味着可以微调降低其他刺激性成分的浓度比例,从而去除某些让质地变厚重的乳化剂和稳定剂。
日常防晒必须非它不可吗?并不是。美国市场上现有的防晒霜完全能满足你的核心防护需求。至于添加了 BMT 的防晒霜是否真的像传闻中那样惊艳无比?时间会给出答案。目前美国市场上已经有两家品牌推出了含有 BMT 的防晒产品,我们正在对它们进行盲测,时间会检验新成分是否能减少那些依然找借口不涂防晒霜的人数。
克里斯汀·西雷特: 你目前对试用过的含有这种新成分的产品感觉如何?
英文原文
Nancy Redd: Yeah. Well, the hold up is there's a testing process that was put into place that had to be fulfilled and finally for this BMT ingredient, it was filled and now the market is going to start being introduced with this new ingredient. From what I have ascertained, these new ingredients are not standalone sunscreen. So, you're never going to have a 100% BMT. But in the same way adding cilantro to a soup, adding BMT to a a sunscreen, in particular a facial sunscreen, adds a level of stability and cosmetic elegance because it means that the percentages of the other ingredients can be fiddled with. It means that you can remove some of the emulsifiers and the other stabilizers that make a heavier product. Is this required for sunscreen wear? No. There's plenty of sunscreens in the American market that will get you what you need, which is protection. Now, are they as fabulous as sunscreens with BEM? Time will tell. Two companies already have sunscreens in the market in America with BEM in it. We are currently panel testing them, and time will tell if new ingredients make a dent in the number of people who still find excuses to not wear sunscreen. What do you think so far about the ones that you have tried with this new ingredient?
南希·雷德: 我觉得它就是防晒霜,而且我很高兴它终于存在了。
英文原文
Nancy Redd: I think it's sunscreen and I'm excited it exists.
克里斯汀·西雷特: 太酷了。
英文原文
Christine Sirette: Cool.
克里斯汀·西雷特: 在本期节目播出时,你可能还没有公布最终的正式精选名单。你能透露目前是哪两家品牌率先推出了含有该成分的产品吗?
英文原文
Christine Sirette: We will probably be airing this episode before you actually make any picks. Can you reveal which which brands are including these ingredients right now?
南希·雷德: 目前确认在美国本土有 BMT 防晒霜上市销售的两个品牌是 Ultra Violette 和 露得清(Neutrogena)。至于这究竟只是品牌的宣传噱头还是产品品质上的真正飞跃,时间会证明一切。我认为许多其他护肤品大厂也正在静观其变,评估重新调整配方引入新成分的成本是否值得。目前我不对这两款做官方推荐,我们还在进行盲测评审,这过程充满乐趣。好奇的朋友可以在网上搜索尝试,亲身对比一下它与你过去习惯使用的防晒产品有什么不同。这也是为什么在我们的防晒指南中涵盖了各个价位区间,我致力于让防晒变得人人可及,毕竟防晒霜可能很贵,我认为成分反而是次要考量,成本和可及性才是关键。
克里斯汀·西雷特: 我们刚才聊了非常丰富的内容,让我们暂停片刻,做个快速回顾梳理:面部与身体防晒霜可以通用互换,这是个绝佳的好消息;皮肤科医生推荐至少 SPF 30 且具备抵御 UVA 和 UVB 的广谱防护;大约每两小时重新补涂一次,面部用量至少为四分之一茶匙;化学与物理防晒成分均真实有效,选择哪种全凭个人喜好;带有防晒值的保湿霜或彩妆不足以提供充足的整脸防护,建议先用专用防晒霜打底,再将彩妆作为额外加成;最后,FDA 新批准的 BMT 成分目前已在美上市的两款产品中应用,我们正在严密测试。好的南希,稍事休息后,我们将为你逐一推荐指南中的具体面部防晒产品及理由。马上回来!
欢迎回来!本期节目我们正在与南希·雷德畅聊面部防晒霜。南希,我们想详细过一遍你指南里的各项推荐。我们会给你设定一些假设的使用场景,请你针对特定场景推荐最合适的产品。
英文原文
Nancy Redd: Right now, two brands are confirmed having BMT sunscreens for sale in America. Ultraviolet and Neutrogena. Whether or not it is a novelty element versus an actual improvement in the quality of the product, time will tell. And I think that's what a lot of other companies are looking at. They are trying to decide is it worth the cost of reformulation to include a new ingredient. I am not recommending either of these. We are still in panel testing. It's a lot of fun. But for anyone curious, you can Google. You can see what's available and try it yourself and see how it compares to what you've been protecting your skin with in the past. Because there's also that's why in our sunscreen guide we have a a price point for everyone because I'm trying to make this accessible and sunscreen can get really expensive and I think that ingredients are a tertiary concern. It's cost and access. We have covered a lot so far so I think let's pause for a minute and recap. Face and body sunscreen are interchangeable. Yay. That's great news. Dermatologists recommend SPF of at least 30. Broadspectrum UVA and UVB. Reapply about every 2 hours and use at least a/4 teaspoon for your face. Chemical and physical active ingredients are both effective. It's up to you which you prefer. SPF tinted moisturizers or makeup is probably not enough to cover your face. It's not really enough protection. We recommend using SPF specifically first, then a tinted product after. And then there's this new FDA approved ingredient BMT, which is available in two products on the market here in the US right now. We're currently testing them to see how they hold up against other formulations. Okay, Nancy, we're going to take a quick break and then when we're back, we're going to talk about the specific face sunscreens that you recommend and why. Be right back. Welcome back. This episode we're talking about face sunscreens with Nancy Red. Nancy, we want to walk through some of the recommendations in your guide. We are going to give you some hypothetical scenarios and then we want you to recommend the sunscreen in that scenario.
南希·雷德: 听起来棒极了!
英文原文
Nancy Redd: Sounds great.
日常高性价比首选
克里斯汀·西雷特: 好的。首先,如果是推荐给一位只想要一款高品质、可靠的日常防晒霜,并且没有什么特殊皮肤顾虑的普通人,你会向他们推荐哪一款?理由是什么?
英文原文
Christine Sirette: All right. So, first you are giving a recommendation to someone who just wants a really good dependable everyday sunscreen and doesn't have a particular concern. Which of your sunscreens would you point them to and why?
南希·雷德: 好的,这就有点像防晒界的哲学问题‘热狗到底算不算三明治’一样——对于想要面部防晒霜但又不特别挑剔苛求的人,我会推荐 Supergoop Play Everyday Lotion,它是一款兼顾面部和身体的双用防晒乳……
英文原文
Nancy Redd: Okay, so this is kind of like the sunscreen version. is a hot dog a sandwich because the face sunscreen for someone who wants a face sunscreen but isn't especially picky. I would do Super Goop Clay everyday lotion, it is a body and face sunscreen
凯拉·布莱克威尔: ……而且它装在一个巨大的大桶里!
英文原文
Kyra Blackwell: and it comes in like a massive vat.
南希·雷德: 我只推荐买那个超大桶装,因为如果是小包装的话它会极其昂贵。然而自2018年以来它就一直是 Wirecutter 的推荐之选,是一款不折不扣的大众喜爱的全能选手。在那款 18 盎司(约 532ml)的大压泵桶装里,折算下来每盎司只要 3 美元多一点,这实际上让它成为了我们所有面部防晒推荐榜单中每盎司单价最便宜的一款!巨大的容量意味着你在涂抹时绝不会抠抠搜搜舍不得用够量,这就是我为什么深爱它的原因——轻轻一按挤出一大坨,顺畅抹开,迅速吸收,闻起来还很舒服。
唯一的注意事项是:很多面部防晒霜追求极低香味,而这一款带有一种清爽的薄荷微花香调。如果你对香精极度敏感,它可能不是首选;但对于绝大多数能接受化学防晒的人来说,选择 Supergoop Play Everyday 绝不会踩雷。
英文原文
Nancy Redd: I only recommend it in the massive vat because it's extremely expensive otherwise. However, this has been a wire cutter pick since 2018, and it's a really solid crowd-pleaser. And in the 18 oz jug, it's a little over $3 an ounce, which actually makes it the least expensive of our face sunscreen picks per ounce. And the giant bottle means you're not going to be precious about using enough of it, which is why I love it, cuz it squish out, you slather it, it absorbs, you smell good. Uh, and that's the only caveat. A lot of face sunscreens are minimally fragranced and this one has a minty, slightly floral scent. So if you are sensitive to fragrance, this wouldn't be my pick for you. But for almost anybody, you cannot go wrong if you are okay with chemical sunscreens with Supergoot Play Everyday.
克里斯汀·西雷特: 太喜欢了!我也非常喜欢这款防晒霜。
英文原文
Christine Sirette: I love that. I really like that sunscreen, too. So
南希·雷德: 我至今还没见过有谁不喜欢它的。
英文原文
Nancy Redd: I would I've never met anyone who doesn't like that.
质地清爽与透明控油款
克里斯汀·西雷特: 它确实非常棒。好的,那如果是针对那些极度讨厌防晒霜糊在脸上的厚重感、或者只想要一款轻薄到甚至能忘记自己涂了防晒的人,你会推荐哪一款?
英文原文
Christine Sirette: It's super great. Okay. So, what about someone who hates the feeling of sunscreen on their face or they just really want something lightweight enough that they might forget that they're wearing it at all? What would you recommend?
南希·雷德: 好的,我绝对建议你去身边的平价药妆店寻找它,它经常会有折扣促销——那就是花王碧柔水感防晒保湿凝露(Bioré UV Aqua Rich Moisturizer)。在我们的盲测中,它是测评员整体最喜爱的化学防晒霜之一,因为它几乎是瞬间吸收成膜,在皮肤上的触感轻若无物。凯拉,你在点头,你也很认同对吧?
英文原文
Nancy Redd: Okay. I would absolutely go to a drugstore and look for this on sale. It's often on sale. The Bor UV Aquar Moisturizer. It is one of our panelists overall favorite chemical sunscreens in our brand conceal testing because it absorbs almost instantly and it feels nearly weightless on your skin. And Kyra, you're nodding. You agree with me?
凯拉·布莱克威尔: 我举双手赞成!刚开始用它时我确实有点吃惊,因为它的质地配方完全出乎我的意料——挤出来时水水的,但一涂到脸上就仿佛瞬间挥发化水渗入皮肤,太美妙了!
南希·雷德: 没错!抹上去你会甚至怀疑‘我到底涂了没有?怎么不见了?’它会留下一层非常轻盈、微微透亮的光泽感,既有适度的滋润保湿又完全不黏腻,甚至能让你省去单独涂保湿乳液的步骤。它确实有较明显的香味,而且不防水防汗。所以如果你要去户外大汗淋漓或者游泳,你可能需要换别的款。此外,蓄胡须的测试员不太喜欢它在胡茬上留下的触感,但对其他人来说,这款碧柔水感凝露简直就像魔法一样奇妙。
克里斯汀·西雷特: 好的,下一个场景:如果你要推荐一款给绝对不想在脸上看到任何防晒痕迹的人——无论是因为担心假白泛白,还是排斥油光发亮的人,你会指引他们选择哪一款?
南希·雷德: 市场上有一整类宛如妆前隔离啫喱一样的防晒霜,完全是透明凝胶质地,在任何肤色上都毫无颜色,男女通用。它非常适合在彩妆前打底,但即使不化妆的人也能充分享受它的美妙。在测试过的无数产品中,我们的最爱是 Trader Joe's 日常面部防晒凝胶(Trader Joe's Daily Facial Sunscreen)。
克里斯汀·西雷特: 居然是 Trader Joe's!
南希·雷德: 它太出色了,每盎司只要大约 5 美元。我们有一位平时一直使用 Supergoop Unseen(另一款昂贵的透明妆前防晒啫喱)的资深测评员,在遮标盲测中将 Trader Joe's 和 Supergoop 进行半脸对比测试时,甚至完全分辨不出来哪边是哪边!对于那些坚决不要任何泛白假白的人来说,它绝对是首选神器。但有一点需要说明:如果你最大的顾虑是害怕油光,这款可能不太适合你,因为有些人觉得它质地稍微偏油润一点。
英文原文
Kyra Blackwell: I do. I do. This one kind of did put me off at first cuz it's a little bit different in formulation than I was ever expecting. It's a bit watery when it comes out the bottle, but then you put it on it just evaporates into your skin. It's lovely. Yeah. And you're like, did I put it on? What's going on? Uh, and it leaves this very light, slightly dewy finish, and it's moisturizing, but it's not too moisturizing. You might be able to skip a separate moisturizer. It does have a strong smell, and it's not water resistant. So, if you're going someplace or you're sweating a lot, you if you're going swimming or whatever, you might want a different one. And people with facial hair didn't like the feel it left on their facial hair, understandably, cuz it's a I don't know, it's just like a little magic trick. This Bora UV Aquar Moisturizer. Okay, next up, you are recommending something for someone who absolutely does not want the sunscreen to be evident or obvious on their face, whether that's because they don't want a white cast or they don't want shiny skin. Which of our picks would you steer them towards then? There's a whole category of makeup primer like sunscreens which are completely clear gels and they're colorless on every skin tone. They're gender neutral. You don't It layers really nice under makeup, but you don't have to wear makeup to appreciate this. And our favorite of the quazillions we've tried is the Trader Joe's daily facial sunscreen. Okay, Trader Joe's. It's so great. It's about like $5 an ounce. Uh we actually did have a tester who regularly uses Super Goop Unseen, which is another makeup primer, clear gel sunscreen. They were mistaken when they tried side by side the Trader Joe's with the Super Goop in our brand concealed testing. It's an amazing sunscreen for people who are just like a hard line. I do not want any kind of white cast. It's great. But if your concern is shine, I don't know if this is the pick for you. It's a little greasy.
凯拉·布莱克威尔: 是的,确实有些油润感。
英文原文
Kyra Blackwell: Yeah,
南希·雷德: 我们部分测试员觉得它稍微有些油,吸收速度没有碧柔那么迅捷,但因为膏体本身就是透明的,因此在视觉上绝对不可能产生哪怕一丝一毫的泛白假白。
克里斯汀·西雷特: 在你和凯拉的极力推荐下,我之前买了这款防晒霜,刚开始确实被它的质地惊到了。对于我个人而言,刚上脸前10分钟确实感觉有点滑腻,但在10分钟左右彻底干透成膜后,那种油润感完全消失了,在皮肤上变得非常清爽丝滑。我肯定会再次回购的!
南希·雷德: 克里斯汀,你提到了一个非常关键的洞察。我经常告诉大家,防晒霜就像香水一样:你必须给它‘挥发成膜干透’的时间,给它一刻钟,看看它与你的原生皮肤以及整套护肤流程如何反应融合。正如刚喷出来的香水前调与3小时后的后调截然不同一样,多感受、多体验,你一定会找到与自己最契合的那款防晒霜。
克里斯汀·西雷特: 那么对于皮肤极其敏感、容易过敏或长痘痘痤疮的人群,你会推荐哪一款?他们在试用之前需要了解什么?
英文原文
Nancy Redd: some of our testers found it greasy. It doesn't absorb as well as the bureete, but there's literally no white cast feasible because the sunscreen itself is clear. Upon your recommendation and Kyra's recommendation, I got this sunscreen and was very weirded out because I was not expecting the texture. But for me personally, it felt a little oily at first, but then that texture kind of went away completely after about 10 minutes and it was like very nice on my skin. So, I would get it again. Christine, you bring up a really great point. I like to tell people that sunscreen is like fragrance. You must let it dry down. You must give it a moment to see how it reacts with your skin and your skincare routine. In the same way, a fragrance right out of the bottle does not smell the same on your skin as a fragrance 3 hours later. Keep touching, keep smelling, you'll find the sunscreen that is right for you. What about somebody who has really sensitive skin, maybe allergies or acne? which pick would you recommend and what should they know about it before they try it on their skin?
敏感肌与抗痘矿物防晒
南希·雷德: 这正是矿物物理防晒霜大显身手的领域,因为人们对矿物成分发生过敏反应的概率要低得多(虽然并非绝对不可能)。我们有两款非常喜爱的推荐:一款是 Hero Force Shield Superlight SPF 30,另一款是 Vanicream 面部保湿防晒乳 SPF 30。两款均采用纯氧化锌作为有效防护成分,且均不添加任何人工香精。
Hero 这款非常惊艳,我自己如果容易爆痘或者讨厌传统矿物防晒的厚重感时就会用它。它的质地极为轻盈,虽然单价略高,但它是专门针对易长粉刺痤疮的敏感肌研发的。它带有一点淡淡的绿色修色调,旨在修饰淡化脸部泛红。虽然我们的测试员反馈觉得这个修红效果不太明显,但它完全无害且温和安全。
而更简单、性价比更高的选择则是 Vanicream。它本身就是一款保湿霜,相当于让你一步搞定保湿和防晒两个护肤步骤。相比 Hero,它可能会稍微多带一点泛白感,但测评员普遍认为泛白程度非常微弱,且随着时间推移会逐渐变淡融入肤色。再次强调,不要在刚涂上脸的前5分钟下定论,请给它一小时后再观察。另外非常重要的一点:这两款都不是防水型的,所以尽管作为日常通勤防晒极佳,但如果要游泳或高强度运动出汗,千万不要选它们。
英文原文
Nancy Redd: This is where mineral sunscreens really hit the mark because people are less likely, it's not impossible to have an allergic reaction to mineral sunscreens. And we have two that I really like. One is Hero4 Shield Super Light SPF 30 and the other is Vanny Cream Facial Moisturizer SPF 30. And both use zinc oxide. Neither has added fragrance. Now, the Hero is great. I love it. I would use it if I was acne prone or if you hate the feel of traditional mineral sunscreen. It's really lightweight. It's a little expensive, but it's actually marketed towards acne prone skin. And it has this little green tint that is supposed to blur redness. Our testers did not find this to do anything, but you might. It also doesn't cause any harm. So, here we are. The simpler, less expensive option is our vanny cream pick. It's also a moisturizer, so you're getting two steps in one. and it can leave a little more of a white cast than the Hero, but our testers generally found it was minimal and it faded over time. Again, don't judge it 5 minutes. Judge it an hour after. Now, this is very important. Neither of these is water resistant. So, even though they're everyday sunscreens, they are not the ones that I would grab to go swimming or workout.
适合胡须的高倍防晒
克里斯汀·西雷特: 好的,那对于我们那些留胡子的朋友们呢?你会给蓄胡须人群推荐什么?
南希·雷德: 我会毫不犹豫推荐理肤泉的 La Roche-Posay Anthelios Melt-in Milk SPF 100,它在我们的全员测试中获得了压倒性的盛赞。坦白讲我一开始对它心存疑虑,因为看到高达 SPF 100 的标定数值,我总觉得这多少有点营销噱头的傲慢自大,我一开始甚至打心底里不想相信它、不想喜欢它。
英文原文
Christine Sirette: Okay. What about our friends with facial hair? What do you do for them? I would go with our LRP Lar Ro Paz Enthelia's Melt in Milk SPF 100, which was a huge crowd favorite in our testing. I was dubious at first, if only because the lack of hubris in suggesting that their SPF is 100. I just I I just I didn't want to believe it. I didn't want to like it.
凯拉·布莱克威尔: 100 可真是个庞大的数字!
英文原文
Kyra Blackwell: That's a big number.
克里斯汀·西雷特: 确实是个惊人的大数字,我当时也是心想:‘好吧……’
英文原文
Christine Sirette: That's a big number. I was like, "Okay,
南希·雷德: 但我就喜欢这个数字!这正是我最喜欢的起步防晒值,如果能更高我甚至希望更高!我知道它是防晒界的‘卷王学霸’。虽然大家都清楚在科学上超过 SPF 30 之后,防护效率的提升其实是非常边际递增的微小差距,但大家真的太爱它了!它成为了全场最受欢迎的黑马,特别是在有胡须的男士测试员中表现尤为亮眼。它极易涂抹推开,吸收异常迅速,完全不会像其他厚重防晒霜那样卡在胡茬里形成尴尬的白斑块。它既不泛油光,也没有添加香精,而且名字听起来还特别霸气拉风。
英文原文
Nancy Redd: I like that number. That's the number I like to start at. If I could go higher, I would." I know it's the overachievers of sunscreen. Um even though we all know that SPF it's very incrementally uh improvement and as long as we're over 30, we're good. But everyone loved it. It was a crowd favorite and it did especially well with our testers who have facial hair. It rubs in easily. It absorbed quickly and it didn't get caught up in beards the way some of our other sunscreens did. And it's not shiny. There's no added fragrance. And it's got a great ballerific name.
克里斯汀·西雷特: 既然防晒值达到了 SPF 100,我忍不住想问:它售价到底是多少?
英文原文
Christine Sirette: Well, I have to ask now because it's SPF 100. How much does it cost?
南希·雷德: 这款理肤泉 SPF 100 作为面部防晒霜其实定价非常亲民实惠——5 盎司大管装每盎司只需 7.80 美元。
英文原文
Nancy Redd: The LRP SPF 100 is actually rather economically priced for a face sunscreen at $7.80 per ounce in a 5 oz tube.
克里斯汀·西雷特: 这真的一点都不贵,我感到非常意外!
英文原文
Christine Sirette: That's not bad at all. I'm pretty surprised.
极简护肤与运动防晒
凯拉·布莱克威尔: 我倒是一点不意外,我很喜欢这个品牌,以前用过很多次,品质一直很稳。那如果是针对那些希望早晨护肤步骤越少越好的人呢?比如除非直接整合在一起,否则压根记不住单独涂防晒霜的人?
南希·雷德: 适乐肤日间保湿防晒乳(CeraVe AM Facial Moisturizing Lotion)简直就是为此类人群量身定制的!它将轻薄的保湿面霜与防晒功能合二为一,抹上这一层就能直接出门。从2018年起我们就在推荐它,它的核心魅力正是极致纯粹的便捷:你同时获得了充足的日间补水保湿以及 SPF 30 的安全防护。质地极其清润透气,不含人工香精(不过不添加香精不代表没有任何味道,它带有原汁原味的经典防晒成分气味)。它同样不防汗防水,所以不适合大汗淋漓或去海滩游泳的日子,但作为日复一日的标准通勤防晒,它完美胜任。
英文原文
Kyra Blackwell: I'm not I like this brand. I've used this before. It's good. What about someone who wants the least amount of steps in their morning skincare routine? like they won't remember to put on a whole separate sunscreen unless it's already made easy. You know, it's built in. Sarah V am facial moisturizing lotion is basically made for this person. It's a great lightweight moisturizer and sunscreen wrapped into one. So, you can just put it on and be done. We've recommended it since 2018. And the simplicity is really the appeal. You're getting enough moisture plus your SPF 30. It's very light. doesn't have added fragrance though because no added fragrance doesn't mean it doesn't have a scent. It does have that classic sunscreen smell and it's not water resistant. So, it's not a swimming or sweaty day pick. It's just today's just a regular sunscreen day kind of pick.
克里斯汀·西雷特: 说到出汗,我们来为那些常年高强度暴汗的运动狂人推荐一款吧——比如经常在大太阳下户外长跑的人,你为他们推荐哪一款?
南希·雷德: 经典的 香蕉船温和敏感面部防晒乳(Banana Boat Light As Air / Sheer Sensitive Face Lotion SPF 50)。选它绝不会出错,它具备运动所需的一切刚需特质:卓越的抗水防汗能力、不添加任何香精,而且价格只要每盎司大约 3 美元左右!
英文原文
Christine Sirette: Okay, speaking of sweating, let's make a recommendation for somebody who is the athlete who is sweating all the time, who's like going outside for runs. What do you recommend for these folks? Okay, the classic Banana Boat Sheer Sensitive Face Lotion SPF. You can't go wrong with it. It's got all the things. I feel like Stfano sign of it's got everything. It's water resistant, has no added fragrance, and it's about $3 an ounce.
南希·雷德: 它唯一的妥协在于:它的‘肤感优雅度’没那么高级。在遮标盲测中,它的吸收速度与在脸上的肤感确实不如前面那些顶尖的化学防晒那么润物细无声。但如果你的核心诉求是高强度户外运动和大量暴汗,香蕉船这款绝对是极其皮实、务实且性价比爆棚的选择。
克里斯汀·西雷特: 好的南希,作为最后的压轴彩蛋问题:你能揭晓那款你个人深爱、但并不专门推荐给脸部、纯粹图个乐子的沃尔玛神级防晒霜吗?
南希·雷德: 没问题!那就是沃尔玛自营的超巨无霸大桶装——Equate Sport 广谱运动防晒乳超值装(Equate Sport Broad Spectrum SPF 50)。只要花 12 美元,你就能抱走足足两磅重(近一公斤!)的一大桶防晒霜!放在小巧精致的 18 盎司 Supergoop 旁边,它看起来简直就像个粗粝质朴的乡下大表哥,仿佛在说:‘你搁那儿涂得花里胡哨摆造型,我是真正下地干脏活累活的!’可在抵御紫外线上,光线可分不出贵贱!老实说,我给大家的建议是:如果你真想把这大桶放在玄关大门旁,只需把印着‘超值大桶 Equate 防晒’的塑料贴纸撕掉,你就拥有了一个极简高级风的居家防晒洗护装置,堪称完美的玄关装饰品!
英文原文
Nancy Redd: So, uh, the only trade-off is it's not as cosmetically elegant. So, it's fine. It's just that in our brand concealed testing, it didn't absorb quite as well or feel quite as nice on the skin as our other top chemical picks. Uh, but if my priority is active, I'm sweaty, the Banana Boat Sheer Sensitive Face Lotion is a very practical choice. Okay. So, Nancy, as a final bonus question, will you reveal the Walmart sunscreen that you love, but you don't necessarily recommend for the face, but just for funsies? Absolutely. It is the wonderful giant bottle of Equate Sport Broadspectrum sunscreen valueiz SPF where for $12 you can get basically 2 lbs sun a vat of sunscreen that is looks so peruncter in particular next to the very pretty 18 oz super goop jar. It's just like it's like peruncter older cousin is like I'm here to actually do the work. You're over here looking cute with your little sunshiny jar, but no one knows the difference when it comes to the rays. You know, honestly, what I suggest to people is just if you really like to have that bat right by your door, just take off the label that says value, size, equate, sunscreen. You got yourself a winner. You got yourself some decor.
凯拉·布莱克威尔: 大家听到了吧,这就是专家给出的秘诀!
英文原文
Kyra Blackwell: You've heard it here, folks.
停电备用电源与总结
克里斯汀·西雷特: 太绝了!好的,在结束之前,我们总是会问嘉宾最后一个经典问题:南希,你最近买到的最让你爱不释手的实用好物是什么?
南希·雷德: 我其实才刚买下它,还没正式安装。
英文原文
Christine Sirette: I love it. Okay, so before we wrap, we always ask our guests one final question. So Nancy, what's the last thing you bought that you really loved? I actually just bought it. I haven't installed it yet.
克里斯汀·西雷特: 好的,是用来做什么的?
英文原文
Christine Sirette: Okay. But I love it for what it's going to do for my security this winter where I am nervous about power outages,
南希·雷德: 但我无比热爱它这个冬天将给我带来的满满安全感,因为在寒冬我总是非常担心暴风雪会导致断电断网——它就是我们在 Wirecutter 评选出的 CyberPower 备用电池与防浪涌保护器(CyberPower UPS Battery Backup)。
英文原文
Nancy Redd: which is our Cyber Power backup battery and surge protector pick.
南希·雷德: 它真的是个超级酷的神器!我以前根本不知道还有这种东西。我未雨绸缪考虑到我母亲家里的安防摄像头,我需要随时随地都能远程查看她的安全情况。如果遇到风雪暴停电,监控画面就全黑了,我连不上‘妈妈电视台’了。而有了这个设备,你可以把网线、光猫、路由器全插在上面,哪怕遭遇突发大停电,它也能为网络设备持续供电好几个小时!
英文原文
Nancy Redd: It's actually this really cool thing. I didn't know it existed, but I'm thinking ahead to my mother's security cameras and how I need to be able to check in on her all the time. If the power goes out, then I've lost mom TV. And I didn't even know this existed. Where you install your Ethernet and your modem and all that, too. And in a power outage, it'll keep the internet going for like hours.
克里斯汀·西雷特: 太不可思议了!也就是说所有依赖 Wi-Fi 的设备——无论是家庭安防监控、远程办公还是日常联系,在一片漆黑的停电中依然能坚挺运行!
英文原文
Christine Sirette: No way. And so anything that's Wi-Fi dependent, whether it's your security cameras or your work or whatever, it just keeps on trucking when things go dark.
南希·雷德: 所以我超级兴奋!以前压根不知道还有这种宝藏神器存在。我真是打心底里深爱 Wirecutter,它发掘了太多太多的生活宝藏,远不止防晒霜这一项。
英文原文
Nancy Redd: So I'm really excited about it. Didn't even know it was something that existed. Love Wire Cutter for so many things, not just sunscreen.
凯拉·布莱克威尔: 那太不可思议了!
英文原文
Kyra Blackwell: That's amazing.
克里斯汀·西雷特: 真是个了不起的推荐!
英文原文
Christine Sirette: That's great.
克里斯汀·西雷特: 南希,今天和你聊天太欢乐了,每次有你做客节目都精彩纷呈。我们很快会再请你回来的!南希真是太招人喜欢了,能在节目里和她聊天真是莫大的享受。
英文原文
Christine Sirette: Nancy, this has been a riot. I love having you on the show. We will have you again soon. Yay. Oh man, Nancy is such a delight. I love having her on the show.
凯拉·布莱克威尔: 我真的太喜欢南希了。
英文原文
Kyra Blackwell: I love Nancy so much.
克里斯汀·西雷特: 她太出色了。对了凯拉,我很想知道你听完今天这期节目最大的收获是什么?
英文原文
Christine Sirette: She's great. Well, I'm curious what you are taking away from this episode.
凯拉·布莱克威尔: 说实话,我对防晒霜的了解其实挺多的,毕竟这事关我个人的日常护肤大事……
英文原文
Kyra Blackwell: So, I'm not going to lie. I know a lot about sunscreens because I just, you know, I feel like I have a personal stake in it.
克里斯汀·西雷特: 毕竟你之前在 Wirecutter 也长期报道测评防晒霜。
英文原文
Christine Sirette: You've also covered it for Wire Cutter for a long time.
凯拉·布莱克威尔: 确实如此。我想我今天最大的收获是:我打算重新利用起 Supergoop 那款超大压泵桶装,在今年圣诞节买来送给我的兄弟们当节日礼物!
英文原文
Kyra Blackwell: Definitely have. I think that my takeaway is I'm going to reframe the super goop, that big jug, and try and give that to my brothers for maybe like a Christmas present.
克里斯汀·西雷特: 哈哈对,直接送他们一大桶防晒霜!
英文原文
Christine Sirette: Yeah, here you go. Here's a big vat of sunscreen
凯拉·布莱克威尔: 然后直接跟他们说:‘这就是一瓶润肤身体乳’,这样他们就会毫无负担地把它抹遍全身包括脸上。既不会给他们的直男护肤流程增加任何多余步骤,又能实打实保护他们不受紫外线侵害,这也算是我对家人的贴心关怀了!
英文原文
Kyra Blackwell: and then just tell them it's like lotion so they just put it on their entire body including their face and like it's not adding an extra step to their skinare routine and it protects them from the sun and I'm looking out for them.
克里斯汀·西雷特: 这个主意太棒了!如果买小包装的话那款防晒确实挺贵的,但买那个大容量压泵装折算下来性价比极其惊人,非常划算。
英文原文
Christine Sirette: I love that. That is actually a really good value when you buy that sunscreen in a smaller amount. I've often kind of been like, it's too expensive, but at that big tub value, it's great.
凯拉·布莱克威尔: 而且我个人对南希正在测试的新防晒成分 BMT 充满了巨大的好奇与期待。我真心渴望未来我们不必再大费周章地从海外代购防晒霜——不仅价格昂贵,而且跨国网购也不是最理想的途径。我希望能直接在本土货架上买到肤感同样高级出色的优质产品。非常期待测试结果出来的那一天!
英文原文
Kyra Blackwell: I am very curious about NY's testing of this new sunscreen ingredient, the BMT. I am really I would love to have a future where I don't order sunscreens from other countries. Like, it's kind of expensive and that's not my my first choice. I would like to buy be able to buy something here that I think is really awesome and and feels the same way. So, curious if these are any good.
克里斯汀·西雷特: 我真心为你祈祷能够早日如愿!好的,非常感谢大家。以上就是本周节目的全部内容。如果您对我们今天探讨的任何产品感兴趣,我们会在节目简介中附上所有购买链接以及南希关于防晒霜的详细测评文章。下期节目见,拜拜!
《The Wirecutter Show》监制:Rosie Garin,制作人:Abigail Keel。音频工程支持:Mattie Maziello、Nick Pitman。今日节目混音:Catherine Anderson。原创音乐由 Dan Powell、Marian Lozano、Alicia Bitup、Katherine Anderson、Rowan Nisto 和 Diane Wong 创作。Cliff Levy 担任 Wirecutter 副出版人兼总经理,Ben Frumin 担任 Wirecutter 总编辑。我是凯拉·布莱克威尔,我是克里斯汀·西雷特,感谢收听!
南希·雷德: 那个新成分读作 Bimotrizinol,也叫 Bimatresenol,反正是其中一个读音,大家核实一下就知道啦!
英文原文
Christine Sirette: I'm really I'm hoping and praying for you. Yeah, thank you. Well, that's it for us this week. If you are curious about anything we talked about, we are going to drop links in the show notes as well as links to NY's articles about sunscreen. Until next time, bye. The Wire Cutter Show is executive produced by Rosie Garin and produced by Abigail Keel. Engineering support from Mattie Maziello and Nick Pitman. Today's episode was mixed by Catherine Anderson. Original music by Dan Powell, Marian Lozano, Alicia Bitup, Katherine Anderson, Rowan Nisto, and Diane Wong. Cliff Levy is Wire Cutter's deputy publisher and general manager. Ben Fman is Wire Cutters editorin chief. I'm Kyra Blackwell. I'm Christine Sirette. Thanks for listening. It's called Bimotrizenol. is called bimatresenol. It's called one of those and you're going to figure out with fact check.