---
author: New York Times Podcasts
date: '2026-11-03'
guest: ''
layout: post.njk
source: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bv6C01TDQG8
speaker: New York Times Podcasts
tags:
  - cookware
  - cooking
  - pressure-cooking
  - kitchen-equipment
title: Wirecutter 详解一锅料理烹饪器具与技巧
summary: Wirecutter 主持人与资深厨房作者探讨秋季一锅料理。文章对比了荷兰锅、慢炖锅、电压力锅及炉灶压力锅的优缺点与适用场景，分享了压力锅烹饪的液体调整、控温技巧及经典食谱建议。
insight: ''
draft: true
series: ''
category: home-logistics
area: life-family
project: []
people:
  - Leslie Stockton
  - Christine Cyr Clisset
  - Kyra Blackwell
companies_orgs:
  - Wirecutter
  - The New York Times
products_models:
  - Instant Pot
  - Le Creuset Dutch Oven
  - Lodge Dutch Oven
  - Hamilton Beach Slow Cooker
  - Fissler Pressure Cooker
media_books:
  - The Wirecutter Show
  - Hip Pressure Cooking
  - Instant Family Meals
status: evergreen
---
### 一锅料理与厨房器具的探讨

>> 这就是 Instant Pot。它做出来的东西可能不会是最美味的，但我的意思是，有时候会很好吃，但有时也不会。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> [music] That's the Instant Pot. Like, it's not going to make the most delicious thing, but I mean, sometimes it will, but sometimes it won't.
</details>

>> 我的意思是，我虽然没有孩子，但我很希望能让过去的自己给现在的我做好晚饭。那太棒了。是的。[笑声]
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> I mean, I don't have kids, but I would love a past me made current me dinner. That's great. Yes. [laughter]
</details>

>> 我是 Christine Cyr Clisset。我是 Kyra Blackwell。你收听的是《Wirecutter Show》。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> I'm Christine [music] Sir Cleette. I'm Kyra Blackwell. And you're listening to the Wire Cutter Show.
</details>

>> [音乐]
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> [music]
</details>

>> Kyra。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> Kyra
</details>

>> Christine，
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> Christine,
</details>

>> 我们今天要聊一个我现在觉得非常应景的话题。那就是秋季一锅料理（one pot meals）。这类烹饪方式甚至催生了一整类专门的烹饪食谱书，而现在正是做这个的时候。所以，我很好奇，你是一锅料理型的人吗？你平时会做很多一锅料理吗？
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> we are talking about a topic that I feel very close to right now. It's fall one pot meals. This is like a subcategory of cooking that has inspired an entire kind of genre of cookbook and this is the time to be doing that. So, I'm curious, are you a one pot meal type person? And do you make a lot of one pot meals?
</details>

>> 从功能上讲我不得不这样，因为我的厨房太小了。我确实没有空间去做那种需要用到好几个锅的菜。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> I kind of have to be functionally because my kitchen is so small. Like I really don't have the space to be doing multiple pot dishes,
</details>

>> 但我想在这方面做得更好。我觉得我还没完全掌握要领。你呢？我做特别多的一锅料理，因为我要养家，我们时间不多，而且我和我丈夫都工作。所以在忙碌的上学季和冬天，我们的烹饪基本上就是把东西扔进 Instant Pot 里，然后在一天结束回到家时直接吃。嗯，所以我经常这么做。我很喜欢那样。实际上我也想成为那样。[笑声]

不过我们最喜欢的厨房作家之一要回到节目中来聊聊一锅料理这个话题了。她叫 Leslie Stockton。她是一位资深厨房作家，测评过荷兰锅（Dutch ovens）、慢炖锅（slow cookers）、压力锅（pressure cookers），以及几乎你能想到的所有类型的锅碗瓢盆。她之前因为很多很多其他主题上过我们的节目。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> but I want to get better at it. I feel like I'm still not quite there. What about you? I do a ton of one pot cooking because I am raising a family and we don't have very much time and my husband and I both work and so a lot of our cooking during this busy school time and winter is basically just throwing stuff into our Instant Pot and like coming back to it at the end of the day and eating. Um so yeah, I I do a lot of that. I love that. I want to be that actually. [laughter]

But one of our favorite kitchen writers is coming back on the show to talk about this topic, one pot meals. Her name is Leslie Stockton. She's a senior kitchen writer who's tested Dutch ovens, slow cookers, pressure cookers, and pretty [music] much every type of pot and pan you can think of. She's been on the show before for many, many other things.
</details>

>> 我们很喜欢 Leslie。她绝对是 Wirecutter 这里的厨房用具之神（GOAT）。她会为我们剖析你可以使用的各种不同器皿和工具，我想我们俩都会学到不少东西。不要走开，广告休息后马上回来。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> We love Leslie. She's definitely the goat of kitchen gear here at Wire Cutter. And she's [music] going to break down all of the different vessels you can use, the different tools you can use, and I think we'll both learn some things. Stick around and we'll be back after the break.
</details>

>> [音乐]
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> [music]
</details>

### 荷兰锅的优缺点与选购

>> 欢迎回来。现在和我们在一起的是 Leslie Stockton，她将为我们讲解一锅料理可以使用的所有不同器皿。Leslie 之前和我们一起录过节目。她是 Wirecutter 的元老级人物，也可以说是资深老将。她在这里工作了 10 多年。在这个播客上，她来过很多次，和我们聊过派、黄油、刀具，以及几乎所有与厨房相关的事情。Leslie 大概全都知道。Leslie，欢迎回来。

很高兴来到这里。今天我们要聊一锅料理。对于那些疲惫、忙碌、不想洗一大堆碗碟的人来说，这些显然是救命稻草。做一锅料理有太多的充分理由了。[叹气与喘息声]

你测试过很多设备。你拥有极其丰富的烹饪经验。我认为在一锅做菜这方面，一个常见的问题是：我应该用哪个锅来做？我应该用荷兰锅吗？我应该用 Instant Pot 吗？我应该用慢炖锅吗？这里的答案是什么？这真的有影响吗？
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> Welcome back. With us now is Leslie Stockton to talk to us about all the different vessels you can use for one pot cooking. Leslie has been on with us before. She is a wire cutter OG, a vet if you will. She's been here for over 10 years. And on this podcast, she's been here a bunch of times to talk with us about pies, butter, knives, just anything to do with the kitchen. Leslie probably knows. Leslie, welcome back.

It's good to be here. So, today we are talking about one pot meals. And these can obviously be lifesavers for people who are tired. They're busy. They don't want to wash a huge amount of dishes. There's just so many great reasons to make one pot meals. [sighs and gasps]

You have uh tested a lot of equipment. You have a ton of experience cooking. I think a common question when it comes to making something in one dish is which thing should I make it in? Should I use a Dutch oven? Should I use an Instant Pot? Should I use a slow cooker? What's the answer here? Does it really matter?
</details>

>> 唯一重要的事情是你想达到什么目的，
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> The only thing that matters is what are you trying to achieve,
</details>

>> 对吧？你需要满足什么需求？我觉得如果你赶时间，就买压力锅。如果你有大量时间可以打发，无论是主动烹饪还是被动等待的时间，而且你想要——我不想说是最好的——但你知道，比如炖肉充分收汁，风味层层递进，肉质表层烤得微微焦黄。那正是你使用荷兰锅的目的，
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> right? What needs do you need to meet? I guess if you're short on time, get a pressure cooker. If you have lots of time to kill, both active and passive, and you want like I don't want to say the best, but you know, like when a braze is like well reduced and has all that flavor layering and the meat is like a little brown on top. That's what you use a Dutch oven for,
</details>

>> 对吧？就像是那种理想中色香味俱全的炖大块肉（pot roast），或者是最好吃的慢炖美味浓汤之类。用荷兰锅就能做出那种效果。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> right? It's like the ideal beautiful pot roast or like the best braised delicious stew or something. You're going to get that in a Dutch oven.
</details>

>> 是的。我很难去推销慢炖锅。[笑声]
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> Yeah. I have a hard time selling a slow cooker. [laughter]
</details>

>> 我没想到你会这么说。其实在我们录制这期节目之前，我就说过，在现阶段我不确定慢炖锅是否还有立足之地，因为你要么有电压力锅 Instant Pot，要么有压力锅，它们能做慢炖锅能做的很多事情，对吧？
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> I was not expecting you to say that. Well, I actually uh before before we recorded this episode, I said at this point, I'm not really sure there's an argument for a slow cooker because if you you either have an electric instant pot or a you know, pressure cooker will do a lot of the same things that a slow cooker could do, right?
</details>

>> 但说实话，我最近去过很多 Airbnb 民宿，里面都有慢炖锅，我就想：“噢，原来人们还在用这些东西。”就像舍不得扔掉一样，你懂吧？是的。好吧，也许我们稍后会回到这个问题，因为我觉得可能存在——我们不想显得太挑剔，我们不想让人觉得——你知道……
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> But I honestly have been to a lot of Airbnbs recently that have slow cookers and I'm like, "Oh, people still use these." Like getting rid of them, you know? Yeah. So, okay. We maybe we'll come back to that because I think maybe there are we don't want to be snobs. We don't want to be like don't you know
</details>

>> 它是有一席之地的。只是对我个人而言并非如此，但我可以不把自己的偏好代入进去。[笑声]
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> there is a reason for it. It's just me personally but I can take myself out of the equation. [laughter]
</details>

>> 我是有同理心能力的。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> I am capable of empathy.
</details>

>> 那么让我们逐一梳理所有选项。我们将挨个过一遍，讨论每一个的优缺点。首先，对于可能正在考虑购买荷兰锅的人来说，是什么让这个锅很适合某个人？优点是什么？缺点是什么？

好，我们先谈谈优点。你可以在里面煎炒上色。太棒了。它的蓄热能力很强。你可以做出一顿名副其实的一锅料理：比如煸炒完香料蔬菜，把肉煎上色，然后加入所有的液体，接着盖上盖子，煮沸后直接放进烤箱，然后走开就行了。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> So let's walk through all of the options. Then we're going to go through every single one and we're going to talk about the pros and cons for each. So, first for people who might be thinking about getting a Dutch oven, what makes this pot great for somebody? What are the pros? What are the cons? Okay, let's talk about the pros. You can brown and sauté in it. Great. It holds a lot of heat. You can make a true one pot meal when you've, you know, sauteed your aromatics and browned your meat and then you've added all the liquid and then you just cap it, bring it to a simmer and stick it in the oven and walk away.
</details>

>> 它的妙处[嗤笑声]在于烹饪过程中水分会蒸发，这样酱汁和汤汁能完美浓缩，肉煮熟了，上色了，所有风味融合在一起。最后你基本上只需要微调一下调味，我通常会加点酸味物质、盐和黑胡椒。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> What's great [snorts] about it is that you get this evaporation as it cooks so that the sauce, the liquid's perfectly reduced, the meat is cooked, it's browned, all the flavors have come together. And then you basically just have to adjust the seasoning at the end, which I do with some acid, salt, and pepper.
</details>

>> 我记得在编辑我们的厨房指南时学到过一点，那就是荷兰锅能让你做出这种近乎完美的炖菜，因为锅盖并不是扣得严丝合缝，对吧？所以在烹饪过程中会有少量的水分蒸发。正是这点让酱汁或液体能够浓缩到所有风味都凝聚的程度，达到搭配炖肉所需的那种恰到好处的浓度和质感。

假设有人现在有了一个荷兰锅，或者他们正考虑入手一个。是什么区分了一个优秀的荷兰锅和一个平庸的荷兰锅？我觉得人们去 HomeGoods 这类折扣店能看到一大堆荷兰锅，可能会想，要不我就随便挑一个算了。花更多钱买这个类别的产品有什么理由呢？

其实荷兰锅的核心就是铸铁。铸铁嘛，本质都差不多，对吧？所以区分一个好荷兰锅和一个顶级荷兰锅的关键在于形状、尺寸，以及搪瓷（enamel）的质量。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> Something that I remember learning when I was editing our kitchen guys is that, you know, a Dutch oven, it allows you to have sort of this perfect braze because the lid doesn't fit super tightly, right? So, there's a little bit of evaporation that's happening as you're cooking. And that's what allows the sauce or the liquid to reduce to a point where all the flavors have condensed and it's the right consistency and texture that you would want with some like a piece of brazed meat. Let's say somebody has a Dutch oven right now or they're thinking about getting a Dutch oven. What makes like a great Dutch oven versus kind of a mediocre one? I think people can go to some place like HomeGoods and see a ton of Dutch ovens and might be wondering like maybe I'll just pick up one of these. What What's the argument for spending more on something in this category? Well, Dutch ovens at their core are just cast iron. And cast iron is kind of cast iron, right? So, what separates a good Dutch oven from a great Dutch oven is the shape, the size, but also the quality of the enamel.
</details>

>> 你不希望它掉瓷。你不希望它变色。所以如果你打算在搪瓷荷兰锅上花钱，那就买一个高品质的，带有非常坚固优质搪瓷涂层的。那就是 Le Creuset。抱歉了各位，但事实就是如此。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> You don't want it to chip. You don't want it to become discolored. And so if you're going to throw money on an enamel Dutch oven, then get one that is of high quality that has a very good sturdy enamel on it. And that's L Crusade. Sorry y'all, but it is.
</details>

>> 是的，我正想问这个。这就是为什么大家都想要它。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> Yeah, I was going to ask that. That's why everybody wants that.
</details>

>> 它是那个漂亮又极佳的选择，就像是作为结婚礼物的首选。多年来我们一直推荐 Lodge。我想它目前依然是我们的主要推荐款，它是一款非常扎实的荷兰锅，能出色地完成任务。我认为我的使用体验是，它的搪瓷涂层……
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> It's the beautiful wonderful option. Like that's the wedding gift option. Um for years we have recommended the Lodge. It's still our main pick, I think, and it's a totally solid Dutch oven, and it will do the job beautifully. I think my experience with that one is that the enamel
</details>

>> 相比 Le Creuset，变色和划痕来得稍微容易一些，但它依然是一个非常扎实、极好的选择。我经常看到，在 Le Creuset 这个品牌里升级到更大的锅是非常昂贵的。所以我经常看到人们做出这样的折中，他们会觉得：“好吧，我买 Lodge，因为我花合理的价钱依然能买到一个很大的锅，而且它效果不错。”
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> kind of discolors and scratches a little bit more easily than the Lucrus, but it's still a really solid and great option. And I I've often seen jumping up to a bigger pot in the lrus category is very expensive. And so I often see people making that jump. They're like, "Well, I get the Lodge because I can still get a really big pot for a reasonable price and it works well."
</details>

>> 荷兰锅的缺点是什么？听起来都挺棒的。[笑声]
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> What are the cons of a Dutch oven? This all sounds great. [laughter]
</details>

>> 它很重。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> It's heavy.
</details>

>> 它很贵。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> It's expensive.
</details>

>> 是的。而且我觉得它需要更多的主动照看时间。对，你必须人在现场。如果烤箱里有东西在煮，你就不能直接离家出门。它就是需要更多的主动精力。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> Yeah. And it's more active time, I think. Right. You have to actually be present. You can't just leave the house if you've got something in the oven. It's just more active.
</details>

>> 你被困在家里了。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> You are stuck at home.
</details>

>> 是的。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> Yeah.
</details>

### 慢炖锅与电饭煲的对比

>> 这适合温馨舒适的周六烹饪。好了，让我们回到刚才讨论的慢炖锅问题。很多年前，Leslie，当我和你差不多同一时间刚开始在 Wirecutter 工作时，我负责的第一篇指南就是慢炖锅。我记得当时在我的单身公寓里测试慢炖锅，因为同时运行了太多台机器，把公寓里的电路保险丝都给烧断了。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> This is like a cozy Saturday cooking. Okay, let's return to this slow cooker question that we just talked about. Many years ago, Leslie, when you and I around the same time first started working on at Wire Cutter, my first guide was to slow cookers. And so, I remember testing slow cookers in my one-bedroom apartment and like blowing out all the circuits in my apartment because I was running too many machines.
</details>

>> 我记得当时还跟你聊过慢炖锅。对某些人来说，他们很喜欢这些。我是伴随着这些长大的，比如教堂地下室在礼拜结束后做饭。而且我想很多人现在依然用它来做那个——叫什么来着，就是大家带菜聚餐？
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> I remember talking to you about slow cookers at that point. You know, for some people, they love these. I mean, I I grew up with these going on in like the church basement for after church meals. And I think a lot of people still use them for what's that thing when you go to a a potluck.
</details>

>> 家常便饭百味餐（potluck）。[笑声]
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> A potluck. [laughter]
</details>

>> 对。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> Yeah.
</details>

>> 不，我想的是在车尾箱野餐派对（tailgating）那种场合。我知道你不会买这种锅，但什么时候有买它的理由呢？
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> No, I was thinking when you're like tailgating. I know you would not get one of these, but like when is the argument to get one of these?
</details>

>> 我的意思是，开着慢炖锅直接离家出门现在依然是可行的做法吗？
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> I mean, is it still advisable to leave your house with a slow cooker running?
</details>

>> 我觉得可以，我不认为那有什么问题。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> I think you can. I don't think there's a problem with that.
</details>

>> 我妈妈以前就会把食物放进去煮，然后我们都去上学，[笑声] 回家时晚饭就做好了。如果你想能随意外出，如果你只是想回家就能吃上一口热饭。是的。而且我还想说，它的价格只有 Instant Pot 的一半。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> You know, my mom would put the food on and we would all go to school [laughter] and come back and dinner was ready. If you want to be able to leave the house, if you just want to come home to a hot meal. Yeah. And but I will also say that half the price of an Instant Pot.
</details>

>> 是的，它们相当便宜。花个四五十美元就能买到一个，对吧？是的。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> Yeah. They're pretty they're pretty inexpensive. You can get one for like 40 50 bucks, right? Yeah.
</details>

>> 我能问一个很蠢的问题吗？
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> Can I ask a really dumb question?
</details>

>> 没有什么问题是愚蠢的。电饭煲和慢炖锅之间有什么区别？我觉得我的电饭煲也能做很多一样的事……这里来个唱片打碟暂停的瞬间，[笑声] 让 Leslie 给我们解释一下区别在哪里。

电饭煲是专门用来煮谷物的，当水分被吸收完后，它会自动断电停止烹饪，然后进入保温模式。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> No questions are dumb questions. What is the difference between a rice cooker and a slow cooker? Like I feel like my rice cooker can do a lot of the same little record scratch moment of a stop [laughter] and have Leslie explain to us what's the difference here. Well, a rice cooker is designed to cook grains and when the water is absorbed, it it cuts itself off. It stops cooking and then it goes into like a keep warm mode.
</details>

>> 对。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> Yeah.
</details>

>> 从根本上说，它被设计出来的用途完全不同。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> It is at its core designed to do something else entirely.
</details>

>> 好吧。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> Okay.
</details>

>> 为慢炖锅辩护的一点是，我们的精选推荐款是一款 Hamilton Beach。它是椭圆形的，所以你双关意义上有更多的施展空间，比如放一大块牛肩肉（chuck roast）或整只鸡，不用把它硬塞进这种圆形的小锅里。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> I will also say in defense of the slow cooker is that our pick is is a Hamilton Beach. I mean, it's ovalshaped and so you have more, pun intended, wiggle room for like a sizable chuck roast or a whole chicken without having to kind of like cram it into this little circular thing.
</details>

>> 而且我再次觉得是价格因素。我认为这是你只需要花很少的钱就能买到的东西之一。你可以在车库二手拍卖或者二手市场上淘到很多，它们可以说随处可见、非常便宜。另外，我的 Instagram 信息流里经常会刷到教会女士们分享的动态，展示她们当月带去聚餐的菜品。是的。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> And I do think again the price. I think it's one of these things that you can just get for a very minimal amount of money. You can find these at a lot of them are probably you can find them at, you know, garage sales or used, you know, they're like a dime a dozen kind of. Also, there's like a church lady thing that comes up on my Instagram feed showing like what they brought to the potluck that month. Yeah.
</details>

>> 然后我就觉得，这些我都想吃。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> And I'm like, I want to eat all of that.
</details>

>> 这些女士在她们的慢炖锅（crock pot 或 slow cooker）里装的每一道菜，我都想尝尝。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> I want to eat every single dish that these women have in their crock pot or their slow cooker.
</details>

>> 照我的理解，它的局限只是在于功能没那么全面。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> It's just not as versatile is what I'm hearing.
</details>

>> 它不全面，你无法在里面煎炒上色。嗯。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> It's not You can't brown in it. Mhm.
</details>

>> 所以如果你需要把炖肉煎上色，或者想把洋葱和香料蔬菜炒香，那就谈不上一锅搞定了。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> So, if you need to brown off some stew meat or you want to brown off some onions and aromatics, that is no longer a one pot meal.
</details>

>> 嗯。[清嗓子并笑] 确实。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> Mhm. [clears throat and laughter] Right.
</details>

### 电压力锅与炉灶压力锅的原理及差异

>> [音乐] 我们要进入你最喜欢的品类了，那就是压力锅。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> [music] We're going to get into your favorite category, which is pressure cookers.
</details>

>> 确实是。如果必须在慢炖锅和压力锅之间二选一，我每次都会选压力锅。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> I mean, yes. If I had to choose between a slow cooker and a pressure cooker, I will take the pressure cooker every time.
</details>

>> 你能不能——我觉得很多人熟悉 Instant Pot，但对于不了解其背后科学原理的人，你能用通俗易懂的方式解释一下压力锅是做什么的吗？

它通过加热产生蒸汽来积聚压力，从而把水的沸点——在海平面是 212 华氏度——提高到大约 250 华氏度。

所以，如果把水的沸点提高 37 度，煮东西的速度就会快得多。嗯。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> Can you actually I I mean I feel like a lot of people are familiar with Instant Pots, but for people who don't actually know the science behind it, can you explain like I'm five what a pressure cooker does? It builds up pressure from the heat creating steam so that it takes the boiling point of water which is 212° F at sea level and it can increase it up to like 250°.

So if you increase the boiling point of water by 37°, it's going to cook things a lot faster. M.
</details>

>> 现在我们考虑一下生活在高海拔地区的人，
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> Now, let's think about people who live at elevation,
</details>

>> 比如科罗拉多州山区的人。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> like up in the mountains of Colorado.
</details>

>> 是的。当你上升到超过大约 3,000 英尺的高海拔时，水的沸点开始降低。这意味着食物需要花更长时间才能煮熟，甚至根本煮不熟。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> Yeah. When you get up past like 3,000 ft, the boiling point of water starts to decrease. And that means stuff's going to take a lot longer to cook, if at all.
</details>

>> 所以对于生活在高海拔地区的人来说，压力锅实际上是非常必要的。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> So, a pressure cooker is actually very necessary for people who live at elevation.
</details>

>> 压力锅必须分成两类，对吧？对的。你可以买电压力锅，比如 Instant Pot，直接放在台面上插上电源就行；你也可以买炉灶压力锅，我觉得很多家庭厨师对它心存敬畏。是的。而且炉灶压力锅的容错率似乎更低。那么，你能解释一下它们之间的差异，以及你为什么喜欢炉灶版吗？
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> Pressure cookers have to be split into two categories, right? Right. You can get an electric pressure cooker like an Instant Pot, which just you you set on your counter and you plug it into your wall, or you can get a stove top pressure cooker, which I think a lot of home cooks are intimidated by. Yeah. And it seems like there's just less room for error on the stove top pressure cookers. So, can you just explain what the differences are and why you love them?
</details>

>> 当然可以。我相信大家都听过豌豆汤喷发糊满天花板的故事，对吧？因为有什么东西堵住了锅上的压力阀。但人们必须明白一点——我会回答你的问题，让我继续说[笑声]——我们现在处于炉灶压力锅的第二代阶段，根据品牌不同，它们都配备了这些安全释放卡扣。所以即使你走开了，让火开得太大，它也会自动排气。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> Yeah, sure. I'm sure everyone has heard the story about, you know, pea soup erupting and covering the ceiling, right? because something blocked the pressure valve in the cooker. But one thing people have to understand and I will answer your question just let me [laughter] cook is that we are in the second generation phase of stove top pressure cookers and depending on the brand they're fit with these safety release catches. So, if you walk away and you leave it over too high of a heat, it's going to vent itself.
</details>

>> 所以有这个安全保障。现在说到 Instant Pot，我认为它在缓解人们对压力锅的焦虑方面功不可没，因为它内部有电子元件。它会自动关机，也有安全卡扣。我不用 Instant Pot，但这并不是因为我不喜欢它，纯粹是因为我发现炉灶压力锅功能用途更丰富多样。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> So, there's that. Now, the Instant Pot, I think, should be credited with alleviating a lot of pressure cooker anxiety because it has the electronics in it. It will shut itself off. It also has safety catches. I don't use an Instant Pot, but it's not because I don't like it. It's It's just because I just find a stove top pressure cooker much more versatile.
</details>

>> 现在该我插话了。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> Now, I'm going to step in.
</details>

>> 好，请讲，因为你很喜欢它。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> Yes, please. Cuz you love it.
</details>

>> 我超爱它。我要给家人做饭。在冬天，我大概每周用三到四次 Instant Pot。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> I love it. I I cook for my family. In the winter time, I am using my Instant Pot maybe three or four times a week.
</details>

>> 在像今天这样我要在办公室待上一整天的日子里，我把食材放进去，设定好，然后就出门。通常我的 Instant Pot 和电饭煲都在运作，等我们到家时，晚饭就已经做好了。这就是我喜欢它的原因。它炖出来的肉质感不如荷兰锅那样出色，味道确实没有荷兰锅炖出来的那么好，这是因为所有东西都被封闭在里面，几乎可以说是零蒸发。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> On days like today, when I'm coming into the office all day, I put stuff in there, I set it, and then I walk out. And I usually have my Instant Pot and my rice cooker going and when we get home, dinner is ready. And so that's why I like it. It's It doesn't make a braise in the way that a Dutch oven would. Like it doesn't taste as good as a Dutch oven braze would. And it's because the everything is trapped inside of there. Like talk about zero evaporation.
</details>

>> 几乎没有任何蒸发，除非你手动放气。有时候如果你只是让它自然泄压，
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> There's hardly any evaporation except when you release the pressure valve. And then sometimes if you just let it come down
</details>

>> 不去动压力阀，基本上就完全没有蒸发。因此汤汁往往不够浓郁入味，最后我总会使用 Instant Pot 的煎炒（sauté）功能把汤汁收浓一些。所以确实需要多花一点功夫。但相比慢炖锅，你可以在里面把肉和蔬菜煎炒上色，它有煎炒功能。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> to pressure on its own naturally without releasing the pressure valve, there's no evaporation basically. And so the liquid is often times like it's not flavorful enough and so I end up boiling down the liquid with the sauté function on an Instant Pot to get that liquid condensed a little bit. So there's a little bit of extra work that has to happen. But you can as as compared to a slow cooker, you can brown meat in it and vegetables. There's a sauté function.
</details>

>> 这就是我喜欢它们的原因，因为它在主动烹饪时间上实实在在地为你节省了时间。你可以把它设好，然后走开去忙你的一天，就像用慢炖锅一样，只是它的烹调速度要快得多。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> So that's why I like them because it truly is giving you time back in the sense of active time. like you can set it up and then walk away and go on with your day in the same way that you could with a slow cooker. It just cooks a lot faster.
</details>

>> 对。所以你会设个定时器让它开始烹饪吗？
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> Right. So, do you put it on a timer so it starts cooking?
</details>

>> 会的。我会设定好计时，一旦烹饪完成，它就会切换到保温档。对我来说，有时在离家去上班之前食物就已经做好了，它就一直处于保温状态，等我回到家，它可能已经保温了 8 个小时左右。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> Yeah. So, I'll set the timer and then it went once it's finished cooking it will switch over to a warming setting. And so for me, sometimes the food is actually cooked by the time I leave the house to go to work and it's just on the warming setting and then I'll get home and it's been like warming for 8 hours or whatever.
</details>

>> 好的。是的，所以它有点像新一代的慢炖锅。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> Okay. Yeah. So, it's kind of like a newaged slow cooker kind of.
</details>

>> 是的。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> Yeah.
</details>

>> 那么炉灶压力锅有什么不同呢？
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> How is the stove top pressure cooker different?
</details>

>> 我只想说这一点，[笑声] 我尊重……
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> And I just want to say this, [laughter] I respect
</details>

>> 还有一件事。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> and one other thing.
</details>

>> 我想说我完全理解并尊重对这种功能性的需求。我不是来评判任何人的。我没有小孩，没有丈夫，不需要做膳食规划。除了我自己，没有人在指望我做饭吃。而且我自己也经常凑合糊弄。[笑声]

我觉得这真是一个很好的观点。我认为这取决于你处于人生的什么阶段。作为一名母亲，我觉得自己总是在做妥协。我的妥协之一就是：我们的伙食不可能像我没工作、能整天待在家里时做得那么美味可口。我的抉择是，我得去完成所有其他必须做的事情，晚饭或许没那么惊艳，但它能准时上桌，能填饱肚子，而且是自家做的。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> I want to say that I respect the need for that kind of functionality. I am not here to judge anyone. I don't have kids. I don't have a husband. I don't have to meal plan. No one's relying on me to eat except me. And I fail myself all the time. [laughter]

Well, I think that's such a great point. I think like where you're at in life, like I as a mom feel like I am always making compromises. One of my compromises is that we just are not going to eat as deliciously as we could if I didn't have a job and I could just stay home all day. Like the choice is I'm going to do all of these other things I need to do and maybe dinner isn't going to be as delicious, but it's going to be on time and it's going to fill you up and it's going to be homemade.
</details>

>> 是的。我觉得这就是 Instant Pot 的定位。它做出的东西可能不是最绝妙的，但有时确实不错，只是有时不行。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> Yeah. And I feel like that's the Instant Pot. Like it's not going to make the most delicious thing, but I mean sometimes it will, but sometimes it won't.
</details>

>> 我的意思是，我没有孩子，但我很乐意让早上的自己给晚上的我把晚餐做好。那[笑声]太棒了。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> I mean, I don't have kids, but I would love if pass me made current me dinner. That is [laughter] great.
</details>

>> 没错。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> Yes.
</details>

>> 我可能没有那个条理性在早上去上班前把这些打理好。早上的 Kyra 照顾了今晚的 Kyra。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> I don't have my stuff together enough to maybe do that in the morning before I leave for work. Past Kyra was looking out for today, Kyra.
</details>

>> 没错，这很妥帖。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> Yeah, that's right. That's tight.
</details>

>> 确实是。[笑声] 早上的自己照顾晚上的自己，我喜欢这种说法。好，那我们终于要聊到你为什么钟情炉灶压力锅了。[笑声]
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> That's right. [laughter] This morning's person looking out for tonight's person. I like that. So, okay, let's finally get to why you stove top. [laughter]
</details>

>> 我超爱炉灶压力锅。我以前也对它们非常发怵，后来大概在九年或十年前我被指派去写压力锅指南，我就想，好吧，让我们拿出勇气，去面对这个我们从小到大听过各种可怕故事的家伙。

从根本上说，它的作用和 Instant Pot 是一样的，烹调食物的方式也相同。但它们之间存在差异。一个 8 夸脱的炉灶压力锅在体积上其实比 6 夸脱的 Instant Pot 大不了多少。我之所以这么说，是因为压力锅只能装三分之二或四分之三满，锅内总会有一条最高水位线。所以如果你买的是 6 夸脱的 Instant Pot，你根本无法在里面做 6 夸脱的食物，你必须留出容纳压力的顶部空间。而我经常熬高汤，我在压力锅里最喜欢做的就是高汤和大批量的浓汤，这样我可以把好几夸脱的汤冻进冰箱，这才是真正的为未来的自己行方便。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> I love a stove top pressure cooker. I was very intimidated by them and then I got assigned the pressure cooker guide nine ten years ago and I was like all right let's put on our big girl pants and face this thing that we've heard horror stories about our entire lives. At its core it does the same thing that an Instant Pot does. It will cook the food the same way. There are differences though. An 8 C stove top pressure cooker is still a bit smaller than a SixQ Instant Pot. And the reason why I say this is because you can only fill it fill a pressure cooker 2/3 or 3/4 there's always a fill line. So if you have a sixq Instant Pot, you can't make six quarts of food in there. You have to have headroom for the pressure. And I make a lot of stock. My favorite thing to make in a pressure cooker is stock and huge batches of soup so that I can throw quarts of that soup in the freezer and then talk about doing future me a favor.
</details>

>> 所以我喜欢那个容量和实用功能。如果我有一个大型炉灶压力锅，比如菲仕乐（Fissler）8 点几夸脱的款式，我可以在那个压力锅里做一些别致的小尝试。比如我可以清蒸一条适中大小的整鱼。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> So, I like to have that volume and the functionality. If I have a large stove top pressure cooker, a Fistler 8 point something quart, I can do weird little things in that pressure cooker. Like I can steam like a modest size whole fish.
</details>

>> 大家通常都会说：别在压力锅里做鱼。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> Which everyone's like, don't do fish in a pressure cooker.
</details>

>> 对，我绝不会去尝试那个。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> Yeah. I would never attempt that.
</details>

>> 你想在 5 分钟内蒸好一条整条海鲈鱼（branzino）吗？
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> Do you want a whole steam branzino in 5 minutes?
</details>

>> 想啊。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> Yes.
</details>

>> 那就用压力锅。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> Use a pressure cooker.
</details>

>> 呵。[笑声] 但用压力锅的话，你必须等它升压和泄压啊。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> Huh. [laughter] But with a pressure cooker, you have to wait for the pressure to build up and release.
</details>

>> 因为你是清蒸，所以不需要加热太多液体。我觉得如果你只是清蒸，压力锅大概只需要 3 分钟就能上压，因为底部大概只有 1 英寸深的水，然后在带压状态下蒸 5 分钟。对比一下你在炉灶上普通清蒸整条鱼：烧开水至少要花 10 分钟达到产生蒸汽的温度，然后你还得把鱼蒸上 10 分钟。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> You're steaming and so there's not as much liquid to get hot. I think it takes the pressure cooker like 3 minutes to come up to pressure if you're just steaming cuz there's only like an inch of water in the bottom and then it cooks at pressure for 5 minutes. Compare that to you're steaming a whole fish on the stove top. Well, it's going to take at least 10 minutes for that water to come up to steaming temperature. And then you have to steam the fish for 10 minutes.
</details>

>> 嗯。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> Mhm.
</details>

>> 这就已经是 20 分钟了。而我的海鲈鱼早就吃进嘴里了。[笑声]
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> You're already at 20 minutes. I'm eating my branzino already. [laughter]
</details>

>> 我的意思是，这就是为什么历史上在世界上电力极其匮乏或极其昂贵的部分地区，压力锅一直很受欢迎，对吧？因为……
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> I mean, this is why pressure cookers have historically been quite popular in parts of the world where electricity is really scarce or really expensive, right? Like
</details>

>> 因为它们让整个烹调过程更高效、更迅速。但我还是有点不太清楚为什么你更喜欢——炉灶版会给你更大的灵活性吗？是的。好，令人期待。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> because they make the whole process more efficient and faster. But I'm kind of still unclear about why you would like does the stove top version give you more flexibility? Yes. Okay. exciting.
</details>

>> 我还没讲到那里呢。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> I haven't gotten there yet.
</details>

>> 好，如果你用的是 Instant Pot，想泄压时，你必须亲手去触碰压力阀并转动它，然后蒸汽就会呼呼喷射出来。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> So, okay, you have an Instant Pot. You want to release that pressure, you have to literally touch the pressure valve and turn it and then steam starts shooting out.
</details>

>> 是的，就像个小间歇泉。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> Yeah. It's like a little geyser
</details>

>> 而且需要花挺长时间。[清嗓子]
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> and it takes a while. [clears throat]
</details>

>> 如果我想让炉灶压力锅泄压，因为我要往里面加东西然后放回火上继续加热构建风味层次，
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> If I want to release pressure in a stove top pressure cooker, because I'm adding things to it and putting it back on the heat cuz like flavor building,
</details>

>> 我直接把它放到冷水龙头下冲，
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> I run it under a cold tap
</details>

>> 压力不到 10 秒钟就释放了。哇，所以如果你想的话，在炉灶压力锅里可以构建出更复合的风味，因为你可以在烹饪过程中不断往里添加食材。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> and the pressure releases like in under 10 seconds. Oh w so you can get more complex flavors in a stove top pressure cooker if you want to cuz you can keep adding things as you're cooking.
</details>

>> 是的。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> Y
</details>

>> 所以这依然是主动烹饪，但它确实非常快。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> So this is still active cooking, but it truly is very fast.
</details>

>> 非常快。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> Very fast.
</details>

>> 极快。我认为如果你只是想甩手走开，Instant Pot 是极好的。在 Instant Pot 里建立压力其实要花相当长的时间。[清嗓子]
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> Very fast. I think the Instant Pot is great if you are just wanting to walk away. It actually takes quite a while for things to come to pressure in an Instant Pot. [clears throat]
</details>

>> 你完全依赖它内部的发热元件。根据锅里的液体量，可能需要 10 到 15 分钟才能达到压力。然后按照设定的时间烹饪。接着如果你打算让压力自然下降，那可能还要再花上 10 到 15 分钟左右。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> You're relying on that heating element. You've got it. It might take 10 or 15 minutes for it to come to pressure depending on how much liquid you have in there. And then it cooks for the amount of time you've given it. And then if you're going to let it naturally come the pressure naturally come down, that can also take another 10, 15 minutes or something like that.
</details>

>> 这绝对取决于里面的液体量，
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> Depending on how much liquid's in there for sure,
</details>

>> 如果你只是走开，一边做别的事一边用它做饭，那倒无所谓。但如果你是真的下了班刚到家，想迅速做出一顿晚餐，它并不总是最佳选择，对吧？所以听起来，如果你追求极致迅速的烹饪，那是你可能会考虑炉灶压力锅的时候。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> which doesn't matter if you're just walking, you're using it to just do something while you're doing something else. But if you're truly like you're getting home and you want to make a quick dinner, it's not always the best choice, right? So, it sounds like like that really fast cooking is when you might want to think about the stove top pressure cooker.
</details>

>> 一切都取决于你的需求以及什么最适合你。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> It's all about what you need and what works best for you.
</details>

>> 做一锅料理有这么多途径。我来为想要理清头绪的听众稍微总结一下。[音乐]

荷兰锅：如果你有充裕的时间进行高度主动的烹饪，并且想做出最完美的炖肉——任何类似这种需要你参与的菜，
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> So, there are so many paths to a one pot meal. I'm just going to recap a little bit for for those who are trying to keep [music] track. So, Dutch oven, this is great if you have the time to be very active in your cooking and you want to create [music] essentially the best braised meat, any of these things where you're
</details>

>> 而且你不想离开家。是的，而且你不需要离家，这是极佳的选择。[音乐]

如果你想要的是设定好就不用管、能直接出门、不太在乎能不能在锅里煎炒上色、并且希望价格亲民的器具，慢炖锅会是一个很好的选择。然后，对于这种无需多管的被动烹饪，也就是能直接设好就撒手不管的方式，最理想的选择或许是电压力锅。或者，如果你追求的是极致快速的烹饪，那就选择炉灶压力锅。[音乐] 我们先稍作休息，回来后将聊聊 Leslie 最喜欢的一些一锅料理食谱，以及她将炉灶食谱改良适配慢炖锅和压力锅（反之亦然）的绝佳技巧。马上回来。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> and you don't want to leave the house. Yeah. and you're not you don't have to leave the house. This is an awesome choice. [music]

If you are wanting something that you just want to set and forget, leave the house, you don't really care about being able to brown in it, and you want it to be kind of affordable, the slow cooker can be a great option. And then maybe the best option for this sort of passive cooking, like you're able to just set [music] it and forget it, the electric pressure cooker can be great. or if you are looking for something that you really want fast cooking, go with the stove top pressure [music] cooker. We're going to take a quick break and then when we're back, we're going to talk about some of Leslie's favorite [music] one pot recipes and her best tips for adapting stove top recipes for slow cookers and pressure cookers and vice versa. Be right back.
</details>

>> [音乐]
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> [music]
</details>

### 食谱调整与压力锅烹饪技巧

>> 欢迎回来，Leslie。我们很快就会聊到你最喜欢的一些食谱，我非常期待，因为你给我做过的每样东西我都非常喜欢。不过我觉得我们应该先花一点时间讨论一下如何针对这些不同的工具来改良食谱。我记得当我第一次拿到压力锅时，我非常害怕不知道该怎么用。我当时觉得：我不知道该往里面倒多少液体；我不知道能否把专为荷兰锅研发的食谱用在压力锅里。这当中确实有一些需要调整的地方，对吧？那么，你在这方面最好的建议是什么？
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> Welcome back, Leslie. We are going to get into some of your favorite recipes soon, which I'm dying to hear because I love everything that I've eaten that you've ever made for me. But I think something that we should just spend a beat on is talking about how to adapt recipes uh for these different tools. So, I remember when I got a pressure cooker, I was very intimidated about what to do with it. I was like, I don't know how much liquid to put in this. I don't know. Can I use a recipe that was developed for a Dutch oven in a pressure cooker? And there are real things that you need to adjust, right? So, what's your best guidance here?
</details>

>> 那么，我们来谈谈如何把一道大家心爱的食谱放到压力锅里制作。[喘息] 首先，如果我们说的是炖肉、慢炖大肉这类菜肴，你真的需要把液体量减少到最多大约两杯左右，
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> So, let's talk about taking a recipe, a beloved recipe, and doing it in a pressure cooker. [gasps] First of all, if we're talking like a meat stew, a braise, like a meat braise, you really do need to just cut that liquid down maybe like two cups max
</details>

>> 因为蔬菜会出水，肉类也会出水。如果你不想最后费劲去收汁，就得减少加水量。第二点，如果你的食谱里有酒，这非常重要，比如意大利烩饭（risotto）。我会在压力锅里做烩饭。做烩饭时，你先炒香青葱，然后加入意大利调味饭米（arborio rice），接着我会倒入半杯葡萄酒。这是烩饭非常重要的一部分，因为如果没有葡萄酒带来的酸香爽口，烩饭就会极其寡淡。现在，我一定要确保把葡萄酒彻底收干到“sec”（即法文里的收干），因为一旦盖上锅盖，里面是完全没有水分蒸发的。没有任何蒸发。

你有没有吃过某种菜让你觉得：“噢，[清嗓子] 他们做这道菜时根本没把酒气煮挥发掉。”
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> cuz like water's going to come out of the vegetables, water's going to come out of the meat. If you don't want to be stuck reducing your cooking liquid, cut that water back. Second is if there's wine in your recipe, it's very important like risoto. I make risotto in the pressure cooker. And so when you're making risoto, you first saute your shallot and then you add your arborio rice and then I add a half cup of wine, which is a very important part of risoto cuz it's incredibly bland if you don't have that tang from the wine. Now I make sure that I reduce that wine down to sec which means dry because there's no evaporation once you put the lid on that pot. There is no evaporation.

And so you ever have a dish where you're like, "Oh, [clears throat] they did not cook off the wine in here."
</details>

>> 能感受出来，确实能感觉到。[笑声] 或者带有那种刺鼻的酒味……
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> Feeling it. Feeling it. [laughter] Or it has that sort of alcohol
</details>

>> 酒精味、酸涩味，那种生硬的口感。我并不是说你不能用酒，我只是说一定要确保把它收干到“sec”。好吗？

因为我用它做烩饭：在压力下煮 7 分钟，朋友们，太神奇了，完全不用搅拌。

另外还有乳制品。乳制品在里面会结块凝乳（curdle）。嗯。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> alcohol, tart, you know, raw. I'm not saying you can't use wine. I'm just saying just make sure it is reduced down to sec. Okay?

Because I I do risoto in it. 7 minutes at pressure, y'all. It's amazing. No stirring. Also, dairy. Dairy will curdle. M.
</details>

>> 啊？为什么会那样？因为温度实在太高了。好，所以别把任何乳制品放进压力锅里煮。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> Huh? Why is that? It just gets too hot. Okay. So, don't do any dairy in a pressure cooker.
</details>

>> 如果你的食谱需要乳制品，要在最后加。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> If your recipe calls for dairy, you add it at the end.
</details>

>> 啊，就像泄压打开压力锅之后，然后再加入乳制品。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> Ah, like after you've released the pressure, opened the pressure cooker, and then you can add your dairy.
</details>

>> 如果需要加点鲜奶油（heavy cream）之类的，那才是加入的时机。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> And then if it gets some heavy cream or whatever, you know, like that's when you
</details>

>> 我们说的不是黄油，我们说的是稀奶油、牛奶。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> We're not talking about butter. We're talking about cream, milk.
</details>

>> 没错，完全正确。噢，还有很多其他讲究，比如别在压力锅里煮意面，因为温度过高，煮出来会变得超级黏糊。

噢，豆类！现在去你选用的搜索引擎，在搜索栏输入“压力烹饪时间表”（pressure cooking timetables），点击搜索，上面会有海量图表，比如：黑豆浸泡版电压力锅时间、炉灶版时间、黑豆免浸泡版电压力锅时间……里面全是时间和比例。你一定要严格按照比例来，因为你既不希望煮到最后水剩得太多，但也不希望豆子把水全吸干然后烧糊锅底。豆类特别需要丝毫不差地遵守水豆比例，就跟用压力锅烘焙一样严谨。所以要记住这一点，互联网就是你的好帮手。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> Yes. Yes. Exactly. Oh, there are so many other things like don't cook pasta in a pressure cooker because it's just way too hot and it's like super gummy. Oh, beans. Now go on your search engine of choice and you type into the search bar pressure cooking timets and you just click and we're talking like tables of black beans soaked instant pot stove top black beans unsoaked instant pot like and it's just times and ratios. You want to use the exact ratio because you don't want to have like too much water at the end.

But you don't want the beans to absorb all the water and then they scorch the bottom of the pot. Beans are important to like really follow to a tea, the ratio to a tea, kind of like baking in a pressure cooker. So, you know, keep that in mind. And the internet is your resource.
</details>

>> 是的，确实。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> Yeah. Yeah.
</details>

>> 所以听起来在水量控制上一定要小心。查清楚配比和时间，因为网上有大量现成的信息；同时避开那些熟得太快的食材，对吧？比如煮了容易变黏糊的面条。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> So, it sounds like you should just be careful about that liquid. Look up the ratios and the times because there's tons of information out there and stay away from recipes that cook too quickly, right? Like pasta that could get gummy.
</details>

>> 不过，你可以在里面煮鸡蛋。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> But hey, you can cook eggs in there.
</details>

### 经典食谱推荐与家庭一锅晚餐灵感

>> 是的，没错。那么让我们进入食谱环节。如果我对一锅料理完全是个新手，最容易上手的菜肴有哪些？有哪些是你钟爱的经久不衰的大众喜好款？
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> Yeah. You know, so let's get into recipes. If if I'm new to one pot cooking, what are some of the easiest meals to start with? Like what are some classic crowd-pleasers that you love?
</details>

>> 我最近这次做了什么来着？我做了 borracho 豆……不，我没做 borracho 豆，我做的是 charro 豆。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> What did I do this time most recently? And I did baracho beans. No, I did not do barrio beans. I did charro beans.
</details>

>> 什么是 charro 豆？
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> What are charro beans?
</details>

>> 它有点像 borracho 豆，但汤汁稍稠一点。里面有番茄和辣椒，更偏向丰盛浓郁的斑豆（pinto bean）。我做了 carne guisada，
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> It's kind of like barra beans, but it's the sauce is a little thicker. It has, you know, tomato and chilies and it's like it's it's more of like a hearty pinto bean. I made carneisada,
</details>

>> 也就是炖牛肉。我也做了烩饭，因为我超爱按时间快煮烩饭。它能像连续搅拌 45 分钟做出来的极品烩饭那么完美绝伦吗？不能。但你依然会喜欢它吗？会的。[笑声]
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> which is stewed beef. I also did risoto because I love Tim and risoto. Is it as wonderful as like perfectly executed risoto that has been stirred for 45 minutes? No. Will you still love it? Yes. [laughter]
</details>

>> 都是用压力锅做的。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> The made in the pressure cooker.
</details>

>> 全是用压力锅做的。我喜欢做鸡蛋，煮蛋速度极快。我还做了前面提到的整条海鲈鱼。我也做过三文鱼柳。[哧鼻声]
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> Made in a pressure cooker. I love to do eggs. Eggs are super fast. I did the aphermentioned whole brandino. I also did like a salmon fillet. [snorts]
</details>

>> 咦。我从来没想过用压力锅做鱼，我总觉得会煮得过老。但现在我得重新审视这个想法了。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> Huh. I never think of doing fish in a pressure cooker. I just think it will be overcooked. But now I have to revisit this.
</details>

>> 大概只要三分钟。如果我要做的话，我很喜欢蒸鱼盖饭。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> It took like three minutes. So, like if I were going to I love steamed fish over rice.
</details>

>> 我很喜欢那个。好吧，那对于像我这种情况的人，有没有什么一锅料理推荐？家里有一大堆人要喂饱，大家都饿肠辘辘，刚从工作、体育活动和各种琐事中回到家，我只想让饭菜可口，又不想花太多时间。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> I love that. Okay, so what about a one pot meal for someone in my category who's like I got a bunch of people to feed. They're all hungry. They're coming home from work and sports and all the things and I just need to have it be delicious and I need to not spend too much time on it.
</details>

>> 我是说，你的黄油鸡（butter chicken）做得相当棒啊。对吧。嗯。[笑声]
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> I I mean, your butter chicken is pretty bomb. Yeah. Um [laughter]
</details>

>> 我确实——是的，我有一个常做的食谱，就是直接把冷冻鸡胸肉扔进 Instant Pot 里，加些番茄酱，其实我连黄油都不放。就加片香叶，然后启动程序，之后直接回来吃就行。[笑声]
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> I have Yeah, I have a recipe that I make that is just literally throwing frozen chicken breasts into the Instant Pot with some tomato sauce and I don't even put butter in there actually. It's just like a bay leaf and then we set it on and just come back to it. [laughter]
</details>

>> 听起来很棒。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> Sounds great.
</details>

>> 那其实不算真正的食谱，算是个无食谱即兴料理，
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> That's not really a recipe. That's a no recipe,
</details>

>> 但那确实是一锅搞定的饭。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> but that's a one pot meal.
</details>

>> 完全是一锅料理。是的，我的孩子们管它叫“多汁鸡肉”（saucy chicken）。嗯，[笑声] 多汁鸡肉。我也很喜欢——不知道你们对牛肉三明治怎么看，但我祖母以前常做一种叫“滴汁牛肉三明治”（drip beef sandwiches）的东西：她会用两块浓缩牛肉汤块加一罐高汤来炖一块牛肩肉，
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> Totally one pot meal. Yeah. My kids call it saucy chicken. Um [laughter] saucy chicken. I also love I don't know how y'all feel about beef sandwiches, but my grandmother used to make this thing called drip beef sandwiches and she would cook a chuck roast with like two beef bullion cubes and a can of broth and
</details>

>> 做好的时候味道超级浓郁，然后她会把它夹在土豆面包堡里吃。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> and like when it was done it was like super flavorful and she'd like serve it on potato buns.
</details>

>> 哇。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> Oh wow.
</details>

>> 多年以前我在 Instant Pot 里做过这种滴汁牛肉，当时我就觉得：这太完美了。哇。不过我没有放浓缩汤块，因为在这种料理中你必须小心过咸过浓的重度调味料。但我保留了牛肉高汤，味道极其鲜美。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> And I did the drip beef in the Instant Pot years ago and I'm like this is perfect. Wow. But like I didn't use the bullion cubes because like you have to be careful about intense seasoning seasoning things like that. But I kept the beeftock and it was delicious.
</details>

### 食谱资源推荐与收尾问答

>> [音乐] Leslie，我们聊了很多可以用来做饭的器皿以及你最喜欢的一些食谱。但我很好奇，如果听众想寻找新鲜的灵感，想在今年冬天尝试一些有趣的一锅料理，你最喜欢的食谱书和网络资源有哪些？你会推荐大家去哪些网站寻找食谱灵感？
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> [music] Leslie, you know, we've talked a lot about the different vessels that you can cook with and some of your favorite recipes, but I am curious if listeners are looking for fresh ideas. they want to get into some fun one pot meals this winter. What are your favorite cookbooks, online resources? What are the favorite places you would send people for recipe ideas?
</details>

>> 好，首先我觉得《纽约时报》烹饪频道（NYT Cooking）上有一整个专门的一锅料理专区。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> Okay, well, first of all, I think there's a whole one pot section on NT cooking.
</details>

>> 是的，我刚才正好查了一下，上面有超过 900 个食谱。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> Yeah, I was just looking it up. There's over 900 recipes on there.
</details>

>> 哇，那真是个绝佳的资源。因为我以前在 Martha Stewart 那里工作过，所以我总是会查阅 marthaStewart.com，[笑声] 输入我需要的关键词，经常能碰上好东西。我还真的买过——[笑声]

至于食谱书，可以考虑买一本专门的压力锅食谱书。Laura Pazzaglia，她后来虽然把自己的网站归档封存了，但她整理的压力烹饪时间表依然可以在线查阅。嗯，书名叫《Hip Pressure Cooking》，那是我为了开始掌握压力烹饪购买的最早的书籍之一。我发现她在我的烹饪摸索之路上尤其给予了我很大的帮助。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> Wow, that's a great resource. Since I used to work at Martha Stewart, I always refer back to martha Stewart.com and [laughter] type in the keywords I need and I come across something I actually did [laughter] cookbooks, you know, maybe get like a dedicated pressure cooker cookbook. Laura Pazaglia, she has since archived her website, but her the pressure cooking timets are are still accessible. M it's called hip pressure cooking but that was like one of the first books I purchased to start getting a handle on pressure cooking. I find that she in particular was very helpful to me in my journey.
</details>

>> 我要推荐一本我很喜欢的书。作者是 Sarah Copeland，她也为《纽约时报》烹饪专栏供稿，她写过一本叫《Instant Family Meals》的书，我照着那本食谱书做出了好多大受欢迎的菜。我的孩子们非常非常喜欢那些食谱。所以……
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> I'm going to shout out one book that I love. It's a book by um Sarah Copelan who also contributes recipes to New York Times cooking and she has one called Instant Family Meals and I have made so many winners from that cookbook. My kids love love love those recipes. So,
</details>

>> 太棒了，是的，我很喜欢这个推荐。[音乐]
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> that's great. Yeah, I love that. [music]
</details>

>> 好了，我们来到了最后一个问题。Leslie，你最近买到的真正非常喜欢的物品是什么？
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> Okay, we made it to our final question. Leslie, what's the last thing you bought that you've really loved?
</details>

>> 额，我在一家古董商场里淘到了一件 90 年代的缎面运动夹克，它来自一家如今已不复存在的健身房——布鲁克林健康与球拍俱乐部（The Brooklyn Health and Racquet Club）。背后的“Brooklyn”字样就像老道奇队（Dodgers）……
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> Uh, well, I was at an antique mall and I found from the '9s a satin sports jacket and it was from a gym that no longer exists. The Brooklyn Health and Racket Club. The Brooklyn on the back is like the old Dodgers
</details>

>> 噢，对。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> Oh, yeah.
</details>

>> 那种字体，字号非常巨大。我就想，我在这座城市生活了快二十五年，竟然从未拥有一件布鲁克林主题的衣服。现在我终于有了一件[清嗓子]像样的布鲁克林服饰，而且它看起来不像是现代批量制造的，保存完好，手感柔软，是我在这个世界上最喜欢的东西。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> font. And it's just huge. And I'm like, I've lived in this town for like almost two and a half decades without ever having a piece of Brooklyn clothing. And I finally have a [clears throat] good piece of Brooklyn clothing that doesn't seem like manufactured, but it's in perfect condition. It's soft and it's my favorite thing in the world.
</details>

>> 我很想看你在布鲁克林穿着那件夹克的样子。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> A I want to see you in Brooklyn in that in that jacket.
</details>

>> 你会看到的。[笑声]
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> You will. [laughter]
</details>

>> 好的，Leslie，非常高兴[音乐]能邀请到你，我们很快会再请你回来的。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> All right, Leslie, it was great [music] having you and we will have you back soon.
</details>

>> 一如既往是我的荣幸。谢谢你们邀请我。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> It's always a pleasure. Thank you for having me.
</details>

>> [音乐]
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> [music]
</details>

>> Kyra，你觉得你的一锅料理知识长进了吗？比如，你打算开始做大量的一锅料理了吗？[音乐]
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> Kyra, do you feel like you are advancing your one pot meal knowledge? Like, are you going to start making a bunch of one [music] pot meals?
</details>

>> 我想我会的。每当我和你以及 Leslie 专门聊起美食时，我就会觉得：我必须提升自己的水平了。[笑声]
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> I think I am. Whenever I talk to both you and Leslie about food specifically, I'm like, I got to level up my game. [laughter]
</details>

>> 是的，我理解。但我只是还没……
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> Yeah, I can. But like, I just don't really for
</details>

>> 我们俩也比你大了足足二十岁，有着多年的烹饪经验。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> We're also like a good couple decades older than you with a lot of cooking experience.
</details>

>> 那么，你打算用什么锅来做这些菜？我觉得 Leslie 已经说服了我，去尝试那个听起来有些吓人的新事物完全没问题，也就是炉灶压力锅。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> Well, what are you going to make these dishes in? Well, I think that Leslie has convinced me that it's okay to try the scary new thing, which is the stove top pressure cooker.
</details>

>> 我懂，那确实非常引人入胜。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> I know. That was really in intriguing.
</details>

>> 是啊，听到她刚开始时其实也有点拿不准，这确实让我释怀了不少，而现在显而易见她非常喜欢它们。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> Yeah, I it actually made me feel better to hear that she was a little bit unsure about it when she first started and now obviously she loves them.
</details>

>> 是的，我之前确实从未真正意识到炉灶压力锅相比电压力锅在速度上有那么大的优势。所以这真的很有启发性。这次对话对我也是个很好的提醒，让我重新注意到在高海拔地区烹饪会有怎样的变化，以及烹饪时间会如何变长。所以那是一个非常好的提醒。在遥远的未来，如果哪天我退休搬去圣菲（Santa Fe），我一定会用压力锅来做饭。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> Yeah, I never really realized the sort of advantage of just how quickly you can do things with the stove top versus the electric pressure cooker. So, that was really enlightening. This conversation was a good reminder to me about how cooking changes when you're at altitude, about how things take longer to cook. And so that was a good reminder to me. If and when I retire to Santa Fe in some future distance, I will be cooking with a pressure cooker.
</details>

>> 是的，完全没错。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> Yeah, absolutely.
</details>

>> [音乐] 好的。如果你对我们今天讨论的任何产品感兴趣，我们会在下方附上包含所有这些装备以及今天聊到的所有产品的指南链接，并且我们还会附上 Leslie 为网站撰写的其他文章链接。本期节目就到这里。感谢收听，再见。

《Wirecutter Show》执行制片人是 Rosie Guerin，制片人是 Abigail Keel。Mattie Maziello 和 Nick Pitman 提供工程支持。本期节目由 Katherine Anderson 混音。原创音乐来自 Dan Powell、Marian Lozano、Rowan Nemoto、Katherine Anderson 以及 Diane Wong。Cliff Levy 是 Wirecutter 的副出版人兼总经理。Ben Frumin 是 Wirecutter 的总编辑。我是 Christine Cyr Clisset。我是 Kyra Blackwell。感谢收听。

录好了。你刚才说了“stove pot pressure cooker”（炉灶锅压力锅）。我要给这个词注册个商标。然后……
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> [music] All right. If you are interested in any of the products we talked about today, we're going to link to all of our guides that have all of this gear in them and all [music] of the products that we talked about today. And we'll link to some other pieces that Leslie has written for the site. That's it for us this episode. Thanks for listening. Bye.

The Wire Cutter Show is executive [music] produced by Rosie Garin and produced by Abigail Keel. Engineering support from Mattie Maziello and Nick [music] Pitman. Today's episode was mixed by Katherine Anderson. original music by Dan Powell, Marian Lozano, Rowan [music] Nemoto, Katherine Anderson, and Diane Wong. Cliff Levy is Wire Cutter's deputy publisher and general manager. [music] Ben Freeman is Wire Cutters editor-inchief. I'm Christine Sirette. I'm [music] Kyra Blackwell. Thanks for listening.

We got it. You said stove pot pressure cooker. I'm going to brand that. And then
</details>

>> 那个[笑声]炉灶锅压力锅。
<details><summary>Original English</summary>
>> the [laughter] stove pot pressure cooker.
</details>