如何为你的发质挑选完美洗发水:Wirecutter 专家的全面指南 New York Times Podcasts 2026-07-14

挑选完美洗发水

Christine Zier Klosedt: 我们希望能尽可能覆盖到更多不同的头发类型。因此,我们在测试中同时纳入了男性和女性。我们希望这项测试能够具有性别包容性,并且涵盖所有类型的头发长度——从短发、中发再到长发。此外,还有染后受损发质、经过化学处理的头发、天然发质、灰白头发以及染过色的头发。通过这样做,我们希望能尽可能多地测试到各种不同的发质。

Original English

Christine Zier Klosedt: We wanted to ensure that we covered as many different hair types as possible. So, we had both men and women. We wanted it to be gender inclusive, all sorts of hair lengths from short to medium to long, color-treated hair, chemically processed hair, natural hair, gray hair, dyed hair. In doing so, we hoped that we were able to get as many different hair types as possible.

Kyra Blackwell: 我是 Kyra Blackwell。

Original English

Kyra Blackwell: I'm Kyra Blackwell.

Rosie Garen: 我是 Rosie Garen,你现在收听的是 Wirecutter 播客节目。

Original English

Rosie Garen: I'm Rosie Garen, and you're listening to the Wirecutter Show.

Rosie Garen: 真是太棒了。今天我的两个好朋友都在这个房间里。

Original English

Rosie Garen: What a treat. I both my pals in the room.

Kyra Blackwell: 你们好呀。

Original English

Kyra Blackwell: Hey there.

Christine Siracusa: 嗨,好久不见。我们三个人有多久没有在同一期节目里出现在同一个房间里了?我觉得已经好久了。

Original English

Christine Siracusa: Hey there, stranger. It's like have the three of us been in the same room on an episode in a while? I don't think so.

Rosie Garen: 确实有一段时间了。嗯,今天我们要来聊聊洗发水。

Original English

Rosie Garen: It's been a minute. Um, today we're going to talk about shampoo.

Kyra Blackwell: 我非常喜欢洗发水。

Original English

Kyra Blackwell: Love shampoo.

Rosie Garen: 这是许多人护发流程的第一步,实际上它对你头发的最终外观、你头皮的舒适度,以及你对头发的整体感受都起着超乎想象的重要作用。

Original English

Rosie Garen: The first step in many people's hair care routine, and actually it can play an outsized role in how your hair ends up looking, how your scalp feels, and generally how you're feeling about your hair.

Kyra Blackwell: 还有你整个人看起来怎么样,是的。

Original English

Kyra Blackwell: And the way that you look in your and the way that you look in general, yeah.

Rosie Garen: 没错,它能为你的一天奠定一个基调。在这个房间里,我们这几个人里卷发发质的比例有点太高了。我们所有人都有一头卷发,虽然每个人的卷度分布和样式各不相同。但正因为如此,我们平时经常会在一起讨论护发的话题。比如 Kyra,我们经常会讨论这些。

Original English

Rosie Garen: Just it can really set a vibe, a tone for the day. We have quite an over-rotation of curly hair in this room. All of us have curly hair, different curl patterns, but because of that we end up talking a lot about hair care, and Kyra, we're talking

Christine Siracusa: 比如“你应该找谁剪头发”之类的问题。我想 Rosie,你经常会向 Kyra 请教很多问题。我觉得其实我们两个都在向她请教。

Original English

Christine Siracusa: like who should you get your hair cut by? I think Rosie, you're asking Kyra a lot of questions. I think we're both actually asking

Rosie Garen: 没错,就是这样,专门向 Kyra 请教。不过说真的,我确实觉得发型能决定你一整天的心情。如果你的头发一团糟,那么你这一天的心情可能也会很糟糕。

Original English

Rosie Garen: Kyra just, yeah. But no, it's true. I really do feel like your hair can really set the tone for your day. If you're having a bad hair day, you're probably having a bad day.

Rosie Garen: 但有趣的是,即使我们都是卷发,我们的日常护理习惯依然有着非常大的差异,而且我们使用的产品也完全不同。然而我们每个人又都极度信赖自己所选择的那套方案。所以,这真的证明了每个人的发质到底有多么独特和不同。

Original English

Rosie Garen: But what's funny is that we we all, even though we have curly hair, we also have very different routines still, and our products vary a lot. But we all swear by our own different things. So, it's really a testament to just how unique everyone to hair really is.

Rosie Garen: 因此,我们今天的嘉宾是 Amanda Rosenthal。Amanda 是我们美容团队的专职作家,她撰写了 Wirecutter 的洗发水选购指南。所以今天她将为我们详细拆解我们应该了解的关于自己头发的一切,帮助我们找到最适合自己的洗发水,以及我们在日常护发中应该考虑的因素,当然还有哪些因素其实并不那么重要。

Original English

Rosie Garen: And so therefore, our guest is Amanda Rosenthal today. Amanda is a staff writer here on the beauty team, and she wrote Wirecutter's guide to shampoos. And so she's going to break down everything we should know about our own hair, to find the right shampoo for it, and things you should be considering for your hair in general, and then the things that of course aren't so important.

Kyra Blackwell: 广告之后,我们将与 Amanda 一起回来聊聊洗发水,看看她是如何进行测试的,以及你在选购时应该注意些什么。请不要走开,我们马上回来。

Original English

Kyra Blackwell: After the break, we'll be back with Amanda to talk about shampoos, how she tested, and what you should look for. We'll be right back.


洗发水的基础功效

Rosie Garen: 欢迎回来。现在坐在我们身边的是 Amanda Rosenthal,她是美容团队的专职作家。她的写作领域非常广泛,涵盖了从洗发水到唇线笔的各种美容产品。关于她有一些很有趣的事情:为了测试定妆喷雾的持久度,她曾顶着大浓妆在桑拿房里干坐着;她还特意买了一个头皮显微相机,用来观察洗发水是否真的能彻底清洁头皮。这可以说是非常有献身精神了。

Original English

Rosie Garen: Welcome back. With us now is Amanda Rosenthal, who's a staff writer on the beauty team, who's covered everything from shampoo to lip liners. Some fun facts about her, she sat in a sauna with a full face of makeup just to test setting sprays, and she purchased a scalp camera to determine whether shampoo really cleans her scalp or not, which is dedication.

Christine Siracusa: 那听起来甚至有点恐怖。

Original English

Christine Siracusa: That sounds terrifying.

Amanda Rosenthal: 确实挺恐怖的,完全没错。

Original English

Amanda Rosenthal: It absolutely was.

Rosie Garen: 好的,欢迎来到节目,非常高兴你能来。我们今天全都在围绕洗发水展开讨论。我觉得洗发水是一种有些人会想很多、而有些人根本不在意的东西。我想先问一个可能听起来有点傻,但非常基础的问题,我想这可能会让一些人感到意外。那就是:**洗发水到底应该是用来干什么的?**洗发水的真正目的是什么?我们为什么必须使用它?

Original English

Rosie Garen: Well, welcome. It's so great to have you on the show. We're talking all about shampoo today. I think that this is a product that some people think a lot about, some people don't think much about. I want to ask what might seem like a dumb question, but it's a very foundational, and I think that it might be surprising to some people. So, what is shampoo actually supposed to do? What is the real purpose of shampoo? Why should we be using it?

Amanda Rosenthal: 这绝对不是个愚蠢的问题。洗发水本质上是一种清洁剂,它的主要任务就是清除你头皮和头发上的灰尘、脏污屑、多余的油脂,以及残留的护发造型产品。它的目的是为你的头皮和头发创造一个更干净、更健康的生长环境。

Original English

Amanda Rosenthal: Not a dumb question at all. Shampoo is a cleanser, and essentially its main job is to remove any dirt, debris, oil, product buildup. It's supposed to create a cleaner and healthier environment for both your scalp and your hair.

Rosie Garen: 那么,有哪些迹象可以表明你当前使用的洗发水其实并不适合你呢?我们应该注意些什么?比如头发的感觉,或者头皮的感觉?

Original English

Rosie Garen: And so, what are some maybe indications that your shampoo is not suiting you? Is there anything that you should be aware of around how your hair is feeling, how your scalp is feeling?

Amanda Rosenthal: 噢,这太明显了。我首先想到的就是你的头皮和头发的实际触感。你有没有感到头皮发痒?你的头发是不是很干?你有没有注意到头皮屑增多和脱皮?我认为这些都是非常关键的指标。同时,你也可以用手摸一摸头发,你是否觉得头发上像是附着了一层厚厚的残留物?这些都是判断你是否选对洗发水的好办法。

Original English

Amanda Rosenthal: Oh, absolutely. The first thing that comes to mind is how your scalp and hair actually feel. Are you experiencing any itchiness? Is your hair dry? Do you notice that your scalp is flaking? I think those are some key indicators, as well as also feeling your hair. Do you feel like your hair is super coated with product? Those are ultimately great ways to decide if you're using the right shampoo.

Rosie Garen: 那接下来,我们该如何挑选适合自己的洗发水呢?

Original English

Rosie Garen: And so then, how do you pick the right shampoo for you?


如何定义自己的发质

Amanda Rosenthal: 这是一个很难回答的问题,因为头发是非常个性化的,在面对头发时会涌现出各种各样不同的诉求。一个通用的建议是:先找出你最想解决的头等问题是什么。是你的头发异常干燥、你想增加水分和保湿?还是你想要更清晰的卷度线条?又或者你的头发非常细软、你想让它看起来更有蓬松度和丰盈感?一旦你明确了自己的核心诉求,接下来你就应该去了解自己的头发类型。

Original English

Amanda Rosenthal: That is the tough question because hair is so personal and I think there's so many different concerns that come up with hair. Some general advice is figuring out what your biggest concern is. So, is your hair super dry? Are you looking to add more moisture and hydration? Are you looking for curl definition? Do you have super fine hair and you're looking to add more volume? Once you figure out your concern, you should also look at what your hair type is.

Rosie Garen: 那么,你怎么才能弄清楚自己到底属于哪种发质呢?这才是真正的难点。

Original English

Rosie Garen: How do you figure out what your hair type is? That's the real question.

Amanda Rosenthal: 当我和我的皮肤科医生,以及毛发学家交流时,他们给出了一些建议。

Original English

Amanda Rosenthal: When I spoke with my dermatologist, I also spoke with the trichologist.

Rosie Garen: 什么是毛发学家(trichologist)

Original English

Rosie Garen: What is a trichologist?

Amanda Rosenthal: 毛发学家是介于美容皮肤科医生和普通皮肤科医生之间的一个细分专业,他们专注于研究头发、头发的生长以及头皮的健康护理。

Original English

Amanda Rosenthal: A trichologist is kind of between a cosmetic dermatologist and an actual dermatologist, and they specialize specifically in hair and hair growth and scalp care.

Rosie Garen: 那么,对于判断自己的发质,他们推荐了哪些方法?

Original English

Rosie Garen: So, what did they recommend in terms of figuring out what your hair type is?

Amanda Rosenthal: 有好几种方法可以来判断。首先我们可以去观察头发的直径(diameter)。你可以通过观察单根发丝的粗细,来确定你属于细软发(fine)、中等发(medium)还是粗硬发(thick)。这是一个很好的切入点。

Original English

Amanda Rosenthal: There's multiple ways to do it. So, starting off first with the actual diameter of the hair, looking at each individual strand and determining whether you have fine, medium, or thick hair is a great way to start.

Amanda Rosenthal: 另一种观察方式是看发量密度(density),也就是每平方英寸里生长的头发数量。这意味着,一个发丝非常细软的人,也可能同时拥有极高的头发密度(即细软但发量大)。

还有一种方法是使用 Andre Walker 发质分类系统。该系统基本上将头发分为从直发、卷发到极度卷缩(coily)的四种主要类型,并且在每种类型下又细分出三种不同的波度变化。所以判断的方法有很多,每个人的头发不仅人与人之间完全不同,甚至在同一个人头上的不同位置也不同。例如,你可能头顶的头发非常细软,但是越往后脑勺和发尾的头发就越粗。所以,这真的是一件非常私人的事情。

Original English

Amanda Rosenthal: There's also another way to look at density, which is the number of hairs per square inch, and that could mean that someone who has super fine hair also has super dense hair. Another way of looking at it is the Andre Walker hair typing system, and essentially there's four different hair types from straight to curly and coily and within those there's three variations. So, there's a lot of different ways to look at it and because your hair is so different from person to person, but also different within your hair, you know, you could have super fine hair on top, but then towards the bottom it's a lot thicker. I think it it's very personal.

Rosie Garen: 大家有办法自己测出毛囊的直径吗?

Original English

Rosie Garen: Are people supposed to know how to tell the diameter of a hair follicle?

Amanda Rosenthal: 如果你自己拿不准,我强烈建议你去咨询你的发型师。他们日常打理你的头发,对你的发质了如指掌。或者去任何一家美发沙龙,你只要走进去问一下,发型师就能告诉你你的发丝是偏细、中等还是偏粗。但说白了,当你捏起单根发丝来观察时,你就是在识别它的直径。

Original English

Amanda Rosenthal: If you're unsure, I highly recommend going to your hair stylist. They work with your hair, they'll know your hair type or any hair stylist. You could probably walk in and ask and they'll be able to tell you if it's super thin, if it's medium, or if it's thick. But essentially, if you look at one strand of hair, that's what you're identifying.

Rosie Garen: 我的窍门就是直接问 Kyra。

Original English

Rosie Garen: My hack is ask Kyra

Kyra Blackwell: 哈哈,我很乐意,虽然我并不是什么专业人士。不过 Amanda,这一切听起来确实有些复杂。如果你想向你爱的人——比如妈妈或祖母介绍,你有什么最简单、最直接的选购建议可以给他们?

Original English

Kyra Blackwell: what my hair type is. Love it. I'm not a professional, but yeah, this all does seem very complicated, Amanda. So, if you're trying to break it down for a loved one, maybe like your mom or your grandmother or something, um what is the simplest, most straightforward advice that you would give to somebody who's just trying to pick a good shampoo for themselves?

Amanda Rosenthal: 优先解决你最核心的头发问题。

Original English

Amanda Rosenthal: Tackle your biggest concern first.

Kyra Blackwell: 意思就是比如“我的头发特别容易变油”,或者“我的头发太干了”之类的问题对吗?

Original English

Kyra Blackwell: Meaning, oh, like my hair gets super oily quickly or my hair is too dry, like stuff like that.

Amanda Rosenthal: 对,或者是你想要给卷发定型,亦或是想要让头发更蓬松。看看你目前的头发最缺乏什么,这是决定该选哪种洗发水的极佳方式。

Original English

Amanda Rosenthal: Or if you're looking for curl definition or volume. I think looking at what you're lacking currently is a great way to determine what shampoo to use.

Kyra Blackwell: 明白了。

Original English

Kyra Blackwell: Got it.

Rosie Garen: 我想问一个非常简单,甚至让我有点不好意思说出口的问题。在我的潜意识里,洗发水嘛,抹上去、揉搓洗净、冲掉就可以了。虽然我知道药妆店的货架上摆着 50 种不同宣称的洗发水,但我过去在买洗发水时其实没那么挑剔,因为我觉得它的唯一功能就是清洁——搓一搓然后冲掉。而护发素则不同,我会让它在头发上停留一会儿,期望它能帮我把卷发理顺。那么洗发水到底是怎么实现那些不同功效的?比如当你说想要解决不同的头发问题,洗发水又是如何帮你做到增加发量或实现其他效果的呢?

Original English

Rosie Garen: I have a super overly simplistic question. I'm sort of embarrassed to put this out there, but I assume that shampoo, you put your shampoo in, you sort of get it in there, you wash, wash, wash, you rinse it out. I wouldn't assume, even though I know, like when you go to the drugstore, you see 50 different types of things for different whatever. I have been less discerning in the past about picking shampoo because I assume it just needs to cleanse. Like you get it in there, you wash it out. Versus a conditioner where like I'm letting it sit in and I'm hoping it's going to detangle my curls. How is shampoo doing any of these things? Like when you think about problem areas, like what you want to address, how is shampoo like going to give you volume or something?

Amanda Rosenthal: 洗发和护发这绝对是一个双管齐下的系统。洗发水对头发的健康有很大的帮助。举个例子,如果你想让头发蓬松,但是你的头皮被死皮、油垢和残留物死死堵塞,那么你的头发就因为发根负重过大而自然耷拉下去,你永远也无法获得想要的蓬松感。

Original English

Amanda Rosenthal: I definitely think it's a two-part system. So, shampoo is great for helping your hair health. So, for example, if you're looking to add volume, but your scalp is super clogged with dry skin, debris, product build-up, you're never going to be able to achieve that because there's so much heaviness there that your hair naturally won't be able to lift.

Rosie Garen: 原来如此。洗发水就像是把画布清理干净,然后让护发素去发挥那些你想达到的其他护发功效。

Original English

Rosie Garen: So, it's like clear the slate and then let the conditioner help with these other things that you're trying to achieve.

Amanda Rosenthal: 很多洗发水里也确实含有一些调理剂(conditioning agents)。不过这对于细软发质的人来说不太适用。这也是为什么——我不知道你们当中有没有细软发质——如果你们注意过,适合细软发质的洗发水往往是透明的,而适合中等和粗硬发质的洗发水,质地则更倾向于乳液状,因为它们里面添加了调理成分。

Original English

Amanda Rosenthal: of shampoos also do contain conditioning agents. Not so much for those with fine hair. That's also why I don't know if any of you have fine hair, but if you notice that fine hair shampoos tend to be clear, whereas more medium and thick hair types, those shampoos tend to have those conditioning agents.

Christine Siracusa: 很有意思,我以前完全不知道这点。我得回去好好看看我的洗发水了,因为我就是细软发质,而且我平时确实在用细软发质洗发水。

Original English

Christine Siracusa: Interesting. I didn't know that. I'm going to have to go back and look at my shampoo cuz I have fine hair and I use a fine hair shampoo.


Wirecutter 的洗发水测评幕后

Rosie Garen: Amanda,我们在 Wirecutter 测试产品时,往往在测试范围和参与人数上都做得非常庞大。所以我想听听,你为这篇洗发水指南做了哪些测试?你肯定试过了海量的洗发水,因为我们随便走进一家商店,货架上都有上百种选择。

Original English

Rosie Garen: Amanda, we tend to do some pretty elaborate testing here at Wirecutter just in terms of scope and getting a lot of people involved. So, I want to hear about what did you do for this guide? You must have looked at a lot of shampoos because any of us can go into a store and see just like 100 options on this on the shelves.

Amanda Rosenthal: 没错,而那也正是我的起点。我跑了无数家 Target、CVS、Sally Beauty 沙龙、Sephora 和 Ulta,同时也在 Amazon、CVS 和 Target 的官网上进行线上调研。最初,我向皮肤科医生们请教:“我们在寻找一款好洗发水时,应该看重什么?什么样才算是一款好的清洁剂?有没有我们必须避开的成分?”在咨询完医生们之后,我又去找了毛发学家,跟她聊了聊头发健康和对**头皮微生态(scalp's microbiome)**的理解。

Original English

Amanda Rosenthal: Oh, and that is exactly where I started. I went into numerous Targets, CVS, Sally Beauty Salons, Sephoras, Ulta's, alongside also looking online at, you know, usual online retailers such as Amazon and CVS and Target. And originally I spoke with my sources and I asked dermatologists, what should we be looking for in a good shampoo? What makes a good cleanser? Are there any ingredients we should avoid? And after speaking with them, I went to my trichologist and talked to her about hair health and understanding the scalp's microbiome.

Kyra Blackwell: 哈哈,我们现在都在用充满惊叹的眼神看着你。你刚才随口说出了一大堆我买洗发水时从来不会去想的专业词汇。

Original English

Kyra Blackwell: We're all looking at you in amazement right now. It's just you just named a whole bunch of things I have never thought to think about when thinking about shampoo.

Amanda Rosenthal: 它确实比大家想象的要复杂得多。尽管很多人可能只是在寻找一瓶简单好用、适合日常的洗发水,但你总归希望它是有效且好用的。

Original English

Amanda Rosenthal: I mean it's a lot more complicated and for some people they're looking for a good just easy everyday shampoo, but you want it to be effective and work.

Kyra Blackwell: 还要便宜。

Original English

Kyra Blackwell: And cheap.

Amanda Rosenthal: 还要便宜,完全没错。所以,在与专家交流后,我整理出了一份包含 92 种不同洗发水的超长清单,这可真是一个庞大的数字。在这 92 种洗发水里,我们根据不同的头发类型进行了分类,因为我们希望这篇指南能尽可能多地覆盖到各种发质。

分类完成之后,我回过头向 Wirecutter 的内部员工、朋友和家人征集他们的使用推荐,并结合了发型师、皮肤科医生和毛发学家的专家意见,通过层层筛选,最终将候选名单缩减到了 32 种。

Original English

Amanda Rosenthal: Exactly. So, after talking with them, I compiled a list of 92 different shampoos, which is a whole lot. And within those 92, we separated them by hair type because we wanted to ensure that this guide encompassed as many hair types as possible. So, once that was done, I went back, I asked Wirecutter staffers for their recommendations, friends, family, along with my expert recommendations, so from hair stylists, derms, and that I was able to sort through and land on 32.

Rosie Garen: 哇,32 种,那依然是一个很大的测试量。

Original English

Rosie Garen: Ooh. Wow, that's still a lot to test.

Amanda Rosenthal: 确实如此。在这 32 种洗发水里,我们先发给了第一轮初步测试人员。Kyra,你当时也帮我做测试了,非常感谢你。

Original English

Amanda Rosenthal: Absolutely. And within those 32, we sent them to preliminary round of testers. Kyra, you've actually tested for me, so thank you.

Kyra Blackwell: 别客气,我也积累了好多想法。

Original English

Kyra Blackwell: welcome. I have thoughts.

Amanda Rosenthal: 通过那轮测试,我们筛选出了表现最出色的几种产品。随后,我们把这些尖子产品寄给了一个全新的测试小组,并基于他们的反馈,最终确定了我们的推荐榜单。

Original English

Amanda Rosenthal: And from that, we were able to get a sense of which ones were the top picks. And we sent those to a group of a whole new panel of testers, and we were able to then find our picks.

Rosie Garen: 给我们介绍一下你的测试小组成员吧。因为每个人的头发真的太不一样了,就像在这个房间里,我们三个人都是卷发,但卷度样式完全不同。而 Amanda,你虽然是直发,但也并不是完全笔直的那种,还是带有一些蓬松的弧度。你们有确保覆盖到所有这些不同的发质吗?

Original English

Rosie Garen: And tell me a little bit about your testers because everybody I mean, we all have such different hair even in this room. Three of us have curly hair, but totally different curl patterns. Amanda, you have straight hair, but it's not totally straight. It's got some body. Were you covering all these different hair types, I guess?

Amanda Rosenthal: 覆盖各种发质确实是一件很难的事。我们想确保覆盖到尽可能多的发质,因此在我们的受试面板里同时有男性和女性,力求做到性别包容。头发长度也是从短发、中长发到长发一应俱全。我们还特别招募了拥有染后发质、经化学处理发质、天然发质、灰发和漂染发质的测试者。通过这种方式,我们希望能为最大基数的人群找到最普适的发质对应推荐。

Original English

Amanda Rosenthal: Covering hair is very difficult, and we wanted to ensure that we covered as many different hair types as possible. So, all of our panelists, we had both men and women. We wanted it to be gender inclusive, all sorts of hair lengths from short to medium to long. We also wanted to ensure that we had color treated hair, chemically processed hair, natural hair, gray hair, dyed hair. In doing so, we hoped that we were able to get as many different hair types as possible for the most amount of people.

Rosie Garen: 没错,而且卷度变化也很重要吧,从直发一直到极其卷曲的发质。

Original English

Rosie Garen: Right. And then so also probably pattern too from the straight to the super curly.

Amanda Rosenthal: 没错。我们的测试者涵盖了从 1A 到 4B 发质的所有人群。

Original English

Amanda Rosenthal: Absolutely. We ended up having testers from 1A to 4B hair.

Rosie Garen: 那是用来描述头发卷曲程度的专业术语对吗?

Original English

Rosie Garen: That's like a description of the curl pattern, right?

Amanda Rosenthal: 是的。根据 Andre Walker 发质系统,1A 代表极其顺直的头发,而 4B 则代表非常紧密的卷缩发质

Original English

Amanda Rosenthal: Correct. So it's the Andre Walker hair typing system and 1A is super super straight hair and then 4B is coily hair.

Rosie Garen: 好的,明白了。那你们总共划分了多少个测评类别?

Original English

Rosie Garen: Okay, great. And how many different categories did you break down?

Amanda Rosenthal: 我们最初设立了细软发质(fine hair)、中等发质(medium hair)和粗硬发质(thick hair)三个类别,这些主要是基于发丝的直径。然后我们设立了针对卷发和卷缩发质(curly & coily)的类别,注重于卷度的维持和塑造。此外,我们针对大家非常关心的干燥和受损发质设立了专区。最后,由于敏感性头皮非常普遍,我们也专门测评了针对敏感肌和温和配方的洗发水。

Original English

Amanda Rosenthal: So originally we had a category for fine hair, a category for medium hair, a category for thick hair. All of those are based on the diameter. And then we broke it up into a curly coily category for curl definition. We also wanted to target dry and damaged hair because we know that's a super big concern. And then on the flip side, we also wanted to ensure that we had a shampoo for super sensitive hair and scalp because that's super important as well.

Rosie Garen: 那么,你们在测试过程中具体在评估哪些指标?

Original English

Rosie Garen: And so what were you actually testing for?

Amanda Rosenthal: 我们首要评估的是清洁力(cleansing ability)。洗完之后,你的头发究竟感觉有多干净?很多人洗完头发后会觉得被“过度清洁”了,也就是那种干涩甚至嘎吱作响的紧绷感(squeaky clean feeling),我们想避开这类型的洗发水。

同时我们也测试了感官体验(sensorial experiences)。对于像我这样的人来说,我喜欢享受洗澡的过程。所以我们会看:它的香味好不好闻?它的起泡度(foam)怎么样?质地是不是让人觉得舒服?在评估了这些之后,我们还会测试它与特定发质的兼容性(compatibility)。因为我们希望确保如果一个长着卷发的人用了推荐给细软发的洗发水,它依然能发挥好效果。

Original English

Amanda Rosenthal: We wanted to ensure cleansing ability. How clean does your hair actually feel? A lot of times people will use a shampoo and notice that it overly strips their hair. You get that squeaky clean feeling. So we wanted to avoid that. We also tested for sensorial experiences. For some people, like myself, I love an indulgent shower. We want to see what does the shampoo smell like? Does it have a good foam? Is the texture good? So we evaluated for that and then we also evaluated for compatibility within hair type because we wanted to ensure if someone was testing a fine hair shampoo but they had curls, it would still work for their hair.

Christine Siracusa: 噢,太有意思了,这正好说到了我的痛点。我觉得我和 Christine……

Original English

Christine Siracusa: Oh, interesting. That's my category actually. I think me and Christina

Christine Siracusa: 没错,我们是一样的。我以前一直以为我必须使用专门的“卷发女孩产品”,但后来发现那些产品根本不适合我,它们往往太重了。所以我现在改用适合细软发质的洗发水。

Original English

Christine Siracusa: Yeah, we're the same. I always thought that I needed curly girl products and it turns out that that is not the right fit for me. It's usually too heavy and so I go for fine hair.

Amanda Rosenthal: 这完全不让人意外。很多主打“卷度塑造”的洗发水,为了照顾卷发天然弯曲的结构,往往会添加非常厚重的保湿剂。

Original English

Amanda Rosenthal: That does not surprise me at all. A lot of curl defining shampoos tend to have super heavy moisturizers just because of the natural pattern, so I'm not surprised.

Rosie Garen: 你当时是怎么发现这一点的?

Original English

Rosie Garen: How did you figure that out?

Christine Siracusa: 在这篇指南中,我们推荐了 Pattern 这个品牌的一款洗发水。它是由 Tracy Ellis Ross 创立的一个很棒的牌子,闻起来很香,也是专门针对卷发设计的。我满怀期待地试了一下,结果却让我很失望,因为它在我的头发上效果并不好。也就是在那时,我突然开窍了:也许这种专门给卷发设计的产品并不适合我。因为每个给我理发的发型师都跟我说过,我的发丝特别细软。我虽然发量很多,但发丝本身非常非常细。所以我尝试换成了细软发质专用的产品,然后问题就迎刃而解了。

Original English

Christine Siracusa: We recommend in this guide, we recommend one of the shampoos I think from Pattern, which is a great brand. I like the smell. I think Tracy Ellis Ross is the founder of that company and it's specifically for curly hair and I tried it and I was really disappointed because it didn't work for my hair. And then that's when I kind of clicked in that like maybe the curly hair products are not what I need cuz every hairdresser has always told me that I have super super fine hair. A lot of hair, but super super fine hair. And so that's when I started using fine hair products and and it solved the problem.

Kyra Blackwell: 是的,这也很有意思。

Original English

Kyra Blackwell: Yeah, that's interesting.

Kyra Blackwell: 我的发型师也对我说过同样的话。她说:“你的发丝太细了。”很多针对卷发设计的洗护产品里都含有大量的**乳木果油(shea butter)**和非常黏稠的……你怎么称呼它们来着,调理剂?

Original English

Kyra Blackwell: stylist kind of told me the same thing. She was like, "Your hair is just too thin." And like a lot of the curly shampoos and conditioners, like the ones aimed towards curly hair, had a lot of shea butter and like, you know, really thick, what do you call them, conditioning agents?

Amanda Rosenthal: 没错,就是调理成分。

Original English

Amanda Rosenthal: Yes.

Kyra Blackwell: 结果这些成分只会把我的头发往下拽,让它变得非常扁塌。Christine,我也注意到了,只要我减轻头发的负担,我的卷发看起来就健康活泼得多。

Original English

Kyra Blackwell: And those just ended up making my hair so weighed down. And like, Christine, I just noticed as soon as I lightened load, my curls seemed much happier.

Amanda Rosenthal: 听到你这么说我真的太高兴了。

Original English

Amanda Rosenthal: I'm so glad to hear that.

Rosie Garen: 这真的非常有意思。而且这也正好回到了你刚才的观点,Amanda,也就是要明确你真正想要解决的问题是什么。

Original English

Rosie Garen: That's really interesting and and it goes back to your point, Amanda, about like figuring out what it is that you want to target.

Amanda Rosenthal: 没错,这才是找到真正适合你、能帮你达到护发目标的洗发水的正确方式。

Original English

Amanda Rosenthal: Exactly. I think that's the way to actually find a shampoo that really works for you and your goals.

Rosie Garen: 那做完所有这些测试后,你觉得价格是决定品质的唯一因素吗?越贵的洗发水就一定越好吗?比如你在高级沙龙里看到的那些贵价洗发水,是不是明显比我们在药妆店能买到的好得多?

Original English

Rosie Garen: So, after all of this testing, do you think the pricier the better? Like pricier shampoos, the ones you're going to see at a hair salon, are significantly better than the Walgreens, name your drugstore option?

Amanda Rosenthal: 答案是:完全不是。你绝对不需要花大价钱去买一瓶好洗发水。

Original English

Amanda Rosenthal: No, not at all. You do not necessarily need to spend a ton of money to get a good shampoo.

Rosie Garen: 目前我们在指南里推荐的最便宜的洗发水是哪一款?

Original English

Rosie Garen: What's the cheapest shampoo that you recommend in the guide right now?

Amanda Rosenthal: 我记得应该是欧莱雅(L'Oreal)的那款。

Original English

Amanda Rosenthal: I believe it's the L'Oreal.

Rosie Garen: 好的,今天的信息量真的很大。不过快速总结一下的话,听起来当你在选购洗发水时,关键是要关注它能否把你的头发和头皮状态调理好。你需要确保你的头发底子是健康的,这样当你抹上护发素时,它才能最大限度地发挥它的作用。不过在你去买新洗发水之前,记得先好好观察你自己的头发,搞清楚你究竟属于什么发质,以及你的头发真正缺什么,这能帮你极大地缩小选择范围。

Original English

Rosie Garen: Okay, there's a lot to digest here, but to quickly recap, it sounds like when you're looking for a shampoo, you really want something that just gets your hair and your scalp health right. You want to make sure that your hair is healthy so that when you put on that conditioner, it's like really doing its job the best that it can do. Before you go shopping for a new shampoo though, take a look at your own hair and figure out what hair type you have and what your hair really needs and that'll help you narrow down.

Kyra Blackwell: 另外,当你真正去试用这些洗发水时,如果洗完后你觉得头皮发痒,或者头发非常干,又或是呈现出那种过度清洁的干涩感,这大概率说明这瓶洗发水不适合你,你应该继续寻找。一瓶对的洗发水应该让你的头发感觉健康、干净,但又不会剥夺头皮天然的油脂保护屏障。我说得对吗?

Original English

Kyra Blackwell: When you actually go and try these shampoos, if your scalp is feeling itchy or if you feel like your hair is still too dry or it's just way too squeaky clean, probably means it's not the right one for you and you should continue testing. The right shampoo will make your hair feel healthy and clean without being stripped of its natural oils. Am I missing anything?

Amanda Rosenthal: 我觉得你总结得非常完美。

Original English

Amanda Rosenthal: I think that's it.

Christine Siracusa: 没错,全都覆盖到了。

Original English

Christine Siracusa: I think you covered it.

Rosie Garen: 稍事休息之后,我们将回来破除关于洗发水的一些流传最广的迷思。此外,Amanda 还会针对不同的发质和痛点,为我们给出具体的推荐产品。我们马上回来。

Original English

Rosie Garen: After the break, we're going to dispel some of the biggest myths about shampoos. Plus, Amanda, you are going to give us some specific wrecks for different hair types and problems. We'll be right back.


破除洗发水的主要迷思

Rosie Garen: 欢迎回来。既然我们已经对如何根据发质挑选洗发水有了大致的了解,接下来我们想来破除几个关于洗发水的常见迷思。Amanda,我在很多洗发水瓶身上看到最多的一个标签就是“无硫酸盐(sulfate-free)”,而且很多发型师也极力向我推荐这种洗发水。那么硫酸盐到底是什么?它真的是我们在买洗发水时应该避开的毒药吗?

Original English

Rosie Garen: Welcome back. Now that we have a general idea of how to pick a good shampoo for your specific hair type, we want to debunk some common myths about shampoos. Amanda, the most common label I see on a lot of shampoo bottles says something along the lines of like sulfate free and I know like hairdressers have recommended this to me. What are sulfates? Are they actually something that people should be avoiding in shampoo?

Amanda Rosenthal: 哈哈,你提到这个太有意思了。因为在着手写这篇指南之前,我也一直以为硫酸盐是个十恶不赦的成分。我当时还特意跑去问我的皮肤科医生:“到底是怎么回事?硫酸盐究竟有什么问题?”其实,硫酸盐本质上就是一种清洁表面活性剂,负责帮我们带走头皮上的污垢和皮脂(头皮分泌的天然油脂)。它之所以名声不好,是因为它的清洁力确实比较强。

但是,现在的洗发水配方已经进行了改良,里面的硫酸盐浓度要比以前低得多,所以它们根本不会对头发造成什么实质性伤害。事实上,很多皮肤科医生甚至非常推荐它们,因为它们能够提供非常彻底和干净的清洁效果。

Original English

Amanda Rosenthal: It's funny that you mention this because going into this guide, I also thought sulfates had such a bad reputation. I obviously went to my dermatologist and was like, "What's up? What's the deal with sulfates?" Essentially, sulfates are cleansing agents that are responsible for helping remove any dirt, any sebum, which is natural oils on your scalp, and they have this bad reputation because they are a bit of a harsher cleanser. However, nowadays, most shampoos are formulated with lower concentrations, so they're not actually bad for your hair. In fact, a lot of dermatologists recommended them because they provide a really good and thorough clean.

Rosie Garen: 那么反过来说,如果你只盯着那些标明“无硫酸盐”的洗发水买,是不是反而存在洗不干净头发的风险?

Original English

Rosie Garen: And so, if you're using, let's say, if you're really sticking hard to the sulfate-free options, is there a risk that it actually isn't cleaning your hair all that well?

Amanda Rosenthal: 确实有这个可能。特别是如果你平时经常使用各种造型产品,比如干发喷雾(dry shampoo)或定型喷雾,又或者你的生活方式非常活跃、经常运动,你的头皮就会有大量的油脂和产品残留堆积。

Original English

Amanda Rosenthal: Yes, definitely. You could not be removing, especially if you're someone who uses a ton of product, whether that's dry shampoo or hairspray, or you you're super active in your lifestyle, you're going to have a lot of oil build-up.

Rosie Garen: 那么,这是否意味着如果一款洗发水里含有硫酸盐,你就可以适当降低洗头的频率?

Original English

Rosie Garen: So, conversely, does that mean if a shampoo has sulfates, you might be able to use it less frequently?

Amanda Rosenthal: 理论上有这种可能。但最终还是要取决于你的生活习惯、你使用了多少造型产品以及你天生的发质。

Original English

Amanda Rosenthal: Potentially. I think ultimately it depends on your lifestyle, how many products you use, your natural hair type.

Rosie Garen: 但如果是无硫酸盐的洗发水,你可能需要洗得更频繁一些。当然,这也取决于个人的生活习惯。

Original English

Rosie Garen: But if it's sulfate-free, you might actually need to use it more frequently. Again, depending on your lifestyle.

Amanda Rosenthal: 没错,因人而异。

Original English

Amanda Rosenthal: Yes, depending on your lifestyle.

Rosie Garen: 那为什么现在的瓶子上全都醒目地印着“无硫酸盐”?我最近甚至在超市里都找不到一瓶带硫酸盐的洗发水了。

Original English

Rosie Garen: So, why do they still all have those labels that say sulfate-free on them? I don't think I've seen a shampoo with sulfates in it recently.

Amanda Rosenthal: 这很大程度上是营销噱头(marketing jargon)。消费者喜欢看着洗发水瓶子心想:“太好了,这是无硫酸盐的,它不会把我的头发洗成稻草。”但其实现在的洗发水硫酸盐浓度已经很低了,并且配方里加入了大量的调理剂,完全不用担心这个问题。

Original English

Amanda Rosenthal: A lot of it is marketing jargon. People love to look at shampoos and say, "Okay, this is sulfate-free. I'm not going to overly strip my hair." But the concentrations nowadays are so much lower, and they've also added in conditioning agents that you're not going to get that.

Rosie Garen: 好的,那那些宣称能让头发更柔顺的洗发水呢?比如针对卷发的洗发水,经常会大肆宣扬它们添加了阿甘油(argan oil),说它超级保湿。这又是什么原理?

Original English

Rosie Garen: Okay, so what about shampoos that have ingredients that are supposed to make your hair softer? Like, especially the ones again for curly hair, they always tout like argan oil, and it's supposed to be super moisturizing. What is the deal with that?

Amanda Rosenthal: 许多针对卷发的洗发水,其配方中往往含有非常高比例的调理成分。这与卷发天然的物理结构有关。如果你仔细观察卷发的S型弯曲结构,你会发现头皮分泌的天然皮脂很难顺着弯弯曲曲的发丝一直向下输送。这就是为什么卷发人群经常会觉得发根很油,但是中段到发尾却异常干燥。

Original English

Amanda Rosenthal: A lot of curl-focused and curl-defining shampoos tend to have a bunch of conditioning agents in them due to the hair type's natural structure. So, if you look at it, curly hair structure, it has that S pattern. It it it more difficult for your natural oils to travel down the path, which is typically why a lot of people with curly hair will experience more oils on their roots, but then from their mid-to-end lengths, it's a lot drier.

Rosie Garen: 所以那些洗发水里的油脂确实是在发挥滋润和修护的作用对吗?

Original English

Rosie Garen: But those oils are actually doing something and working?

Amanda Rosenthal: 是的,它们能提供更深层的锁水保湿,滋养并维持卷度的弹性。

Original English

Amanda Rosenthal: Yes, they actually provide a lot more hydration and nourish your curls.

Rosie Garen: 明白了。那**深层净化洗发水(clarifying shampoos)**呢?这也是我经常在瓶身上看到的词,但我其实根本不知道它们是干嘛的。

Original English

Rosie Garen: Got it. How about clarifying shampoos? This is another thing I've seen on labels, and I actually don't really know what they're meant to be or do.

Amanda Rosenthal: 深层净化洗发水是设计用来偶尔使用的。它们是一种强力清洁剂,使用了去污力更强的表面活性剂,目的是彻底剥离和带走堆积的顽固残留物、油脂和脏污。

Original English

Amanda Rosenthal: Clarifying shampoos are meant to be used on occasion. They are a harsher cleanser, and they use harsher cleansing agents to thoroughly remove debris, product build-up, oil.

Rosie Garen: 也就是说这是一种“重锤出击”的产品。

Original English

Rosie Garen: So this is like a heavy hitter type thing.

Amanda Rosenthal: 没错,当你需要给头皮来一次彻底的深层清洁时使用。

Original English

Amanda Rosenthal: Yes, and meant to be used on occasion.

Rosie Garen: 所以它绝对不应该被当作日常主力洗发水。

Original English

Rosie Garen: So this isn't supposed to be your primary shampoo.

Amanda Rosenthal: 绝对不行。

Original English

Amanda Rosenthal: No.

Rosie Garen: 那么**去屑洗发水(anti-dandruff shampoo)**也算是一种净化洗发水吗?

Original English

Rosie Garen: Would a an anti-dandruff shampoo count as a clarifying shampoo?

Amanda Rosenthal: 这是两个完全不同的概念。去屑洗发水可以在你每次洗头时都使用,但你绝对不能每次洗头都用深层净化洗发水。

Original English

Amanda Rosenthal: Completely different. Because an anti-dandruff shampoo can be used every single time you wash your hair, whereas a clarifying shampoo you wouldn't want to use every time.

Rosie Garen: 去屑洗发水里究竟添加了什么,能让头皮不那么痒,或者减少皮屑的产生?

Original English

Rosie Garen: What makes an anti-dandruff shampoo anti-dandruff? What is in it that's making your scalp itch less or have less flaking?

Amanda Rosenthal: 里面会添加一些特定的活性去屑或抑菌成分,旨在改善头皮的微生态,从而减少瘙痒、红肿和皮屑,抚平干燥引发的头皮不适。这其实和洗发水里的**香精(fragrance)**也有很大的关系。很多普通洗发水里含有大量香精,这也是为什么我们在指南中特意设立了“敏感肌洗发水”这一类别。

Original English

Amanda Rosenthal: There's all these other additives that are meant to help treat the scalp and create a healthy microbiome, so that your hair is less itchy, less irritated, less red, and also less flaky. It helps soothe that dryness. A lot of it has to do with fragrance. There's a lot of fragrance in a bunch of shampoos, which is why we specifically wanted to have a sensitive shampoo category.

Rosie Garen: 好的,所以这就是去屑洗发水的作用原理。

Original English

Rosie Garen: Okay, so that's what's in the anti-dandruff shampoo.

Amanda Rosenthal: 是的。

Original English

Amanda Rosenthal: Yes.

Kyra Blackwell: 虽然我没有头皮屑,但我很喜欢用去屑洗发水。

Original English

Kyra Blackwell: I mean, I don't have dandruff, but I do use an anti-dandruff shampoo, and I love it.

Rosie Garen: 做你喜欢的事就好,Kyra。

Original English

Rosie Garen: Do what you love, Kyra.


新兴趋势与洗头频率

Rosie Garen: 那现在市面上出现的那些看起来像肥皂一样的**固体洗发饼(shampoo bars)**呢?那又是什么?是一种转瞬即逝的流行,还是会长期存在?它们真的好用吗?

Original English

Rosie Garen: What about these new shampoos that I've seen that look like bars of soap? What is that? Is that a trend? Is it going to stick around? Are they actually good?

Amanda Rosenthal: 洗发饼现在确实非常流行,而且我也完全理解大家为什么喜欢它。对于追求环保、减少塑料垃圾的人来说,它们是个绝佳的选择。它们确实能洗得很干净。在我们的测试中,我们惊喜地发现有三款固体洗发饼的清洁效果甚至超越了一些普通的液态或乳状洗发水。

Original English

Amanda Rosenthal: Shampoo bars are definitely trending and I understand the appeal. They're great for someone who's looking for an environmentally friendly option, but they are really effective and we actually were able to find three shampoo bars that thoroughly cleanse hair and are even better than some gel and lotion type options.

Rosie Garen: 所以我们直接用那种普通的洗衣服肥皂或者洗身体的香皂(比如 Irish Spring)洗头也是一样的道理?

Original English

Rosie Garen: So we should all be washing our hair with Irish Spring? Is that what I'm hearing?

Amanda Rosenthal: 哈哈,虽然有些听众可能会这么想,但绝对不行。固体洗发饼是专为头发设计的,对吧?它们含有完全不同的配方。人们喜欢它是因为它更环保,而且因为是固体块状,你每次用的时候消耗的量其实会更少,所以可以用得更久。

Original English

Amanda Rosenthal: That's what some listeners would think, but no. These are very specific for hair, right? Yes, correct. The reason people like them is because they are environmentally conscious and I think because they come in that bar format, you end up using less over time.

Rosie Garen: 所以它本质上和液体洗发水是一样的成分,只是换了个物理形态?

Original English

Rosie Garen: So is it essentially the same ingredients, but just in a different form?

Amanda Rosenthal: 差不多,不过为了让它成型并保持固体的形状,里面会额外添加一些蜡质成分(waxes)。

Original English

Amanda Rosenthal: Yes, and they contain waxes in order to hold their shape.

Rosie Garen: 那些蜡质不会残留在头发上吗?

Original English

Rosie Garen: And that wax doesn't get on your hair?

Amanda Rosenthal: 不会。

Original English

Amanda Rosenthal: No.

Rosie Garen: 还有一个问题,我想在这个房间里的每一个人可能都有不同的答案。Amanda,我很想听听你的看法:人们到底应该隔多久洗一次头?

Original English

Rosie Garen: This is a question I think probably that has a different answer for each one of us in this room, but I'm curious your thoughts, Amanda, how often should people be washing their hair?

Amanda Rosenthal: 你可能不太喜欢这个答案,但它确实完全取决于你的发质和你的生活习惯。如果你平时非常活跃、经常运动,或者如果你频繁使用发胶、发泥、慕斯等各种造型产品,那么你至少一个月要用洗发水彻底清洗两次。我的皮肤科医生推荐的最低底线是每个月洗头两次,以确保你的头皮微生态保持健康。

Original English

Amanda Rosenthal: You're not going to like this, but it definitely depends on your hair type and your lifestyle choices. If you're super active, if you use a lot of gels and pomades and mousses, you want to be shampooing at least twice a month. My dermatologist recommended twice a month to ensure that your scalp microbiome is staying healthy.

Christine Siracusa: 一个月两次?这可比我想象的要少得多。

Original English

Christine Siracusa: That's a lot less a month. than I would imagine.

Amanda Rosenthal: 我当时听到这个数字也非常震惊。

Original English

Amanda Rosenthal: That's I was shocked, too, but first

Rosie Garen: 等等,你刚才的意思是,人一个月只需要洗澡两次吗?

Original English

Rosie Garen: if you're like, you need to shower at least twice a month?

Kyra Blackwell: 哈哈,别开玩笑了。我可是每天早晚都要洗澡的。

Original English

Kyra Blackwell: Oh, please. I shower morning and night. I'm

Amanda Rosenthal: 刚才我们说的是洗头发,不是洗澡。

Original English

Amanda Rosenthal: I didn't realize that.

Christine Siracusa: 我通常是一周洗一次头。因为我是卷发,我发现如果我洗得比这更频繁,我的头发就会变得非常毛躁,感觉不对劲。

Original English

Christine Siracusa: Well, I wash my hair once a week because I have curly hair and I find that it gets frizzy and doesn't feel right if I wash it more than that.

Rosie Garen: 等等,所以一个月洗两次头只是一个底线对吗?

Original English

Rosie Garen: Wait, so twice a month though, that's really that's the general

Amanda Rosenthal: 没错,那是最低限度的底线。

Original English

Amanda Rosenthal: That is the bare minimum. Yes.

Rosie Garen: 噢,好吧。那 Amanda,你平时多久洗一次头?

Original English

Rosie Garen: Oh, okay. How often do you wash your hair?

Amanda Rosenthal: 我一般每三天洗一次。

Original English

Amanda Rosenthal: I wash my hair typically every 3 days.

Kyra Blackwell: 我是一周洗一到两次,取决于我那几天往头发上抹了多少发胶。

Original English

Kyra Blackwell: Okay. I do once or twice a week depending on how much I'm styling my hair with gels.

Kyra Blackwell: Rosie,你呢?

Original English

Kyra Blackwell: What about you, Rosie?

Rosie Garen: 我?我的洗头频率就像爵士乐一样随性,宝贝。

Original English

Rosie Garen: I It's jazz, baby.

Rosie Garen: 我其实没有固定的计划。我就是觉得头发该洗了,我就洗。

Original English

Rosie Garen: I don't know. I just wash. I wash it when it needs to be washed.

Kyra Blackwell: 哈哈,这就对了。

Original English

Kyra Blackwell: HERE WE GO.


快问快答:特定发质推荐

Rosie Garen: 好的,Amanda,让我们切入正题,来做一轮针对具体头发痛点的快问快答。我们会描述一个人的头发状况,然后请你给出最精准的产品推荐。

首先,头发非常细软,而且总是紧贴头皮、扁塌无神的人。

Original English

Rosie Garen: OKAY, AMANDA, LET'S SWITCH GEARS HERE and do a fun little lightning round for some hyper-specific hair concerns. We're going to describe someone's situation, and we want you to give your best recommendation. First up, you have thin hair that's always flat.

Amanda Rosenthal: 推荐使用 Ouai Fine Hair Shampoo。这简直就是量身为我设计的发质。我个人超级爱这款洗发水,甚至可以说在测试它之前,我都不知道还有这么好用的东西,测试之后我真的太满意了。它里面的特定成分能有效撑起发丝纤维,让你的头发视觉上看起来更丰盈饱满,同时提供非常轻盈的清洁感,让发根蓬松起来。

Original English

Amanda Rosenthal: Wave fine hair shampoo. That is my hair type to a T. I love this shampoo. Let me just say that. And it's funny because I didn't discover it until testing. So, I am very pleased. The ingredients in that shampoo actually swell your hair, giving the appearance of fuller hair, while also giving you that lightweight cleanse, but it makes your hair more voluminous.

Rosie Garen: 我得说,你现在的发型看起来棒极了。

Original English

Rosie Garen: I mean, your hair looks fab, so

Kyra Blackwell: 没错,非常闪亮且有质感。

Original English

Kyra Blackwell: does. It's shiny and gorgeous.

Amanda Rosenthal: 谢谢夸奖。

Original English

Amanda Rosenthal: Thank you.

Rosie Garen: 好的,下一个:超级卷曲、卷缩发质(super coily curly hair)。

Original English

Rosie Garen: Okay, super coily curly hair.

Amanda Rosenthal: 推荐 Pattern Beauty Hydrating Shampoo

Original English

Amanda Rosenthal: The Pattern Beauty Hydrating Shampoo.

Kyra Blackwell: 这正是目前我在用的那款。

Original English

Kyra Blackwell: That's what I use.

Amanda Rosenthal: 真的吗?你觉得好用吗?

Original English

Amanda Rosenthal: Really? Do you like it?

Kyra Blackwell: 是的,非常喜欢。

下一个:炸毛、极度毛躁的沙发发质(frizz bomb)。

Original English

Kyra Blackwell: Yeah, I do. I really do. Frizz bomb.

Amanda Rosenthal: 我会推荐 L'Oreal Paris Elvive Hyaluron + Plump Hydrating Shampoo。它能提供温和而深层的清洁,同时通过补充大量水分来抚平毛躁。很多时候,头发毛躁不仅是由于环境湿度引起的,也可能是因为受损——比如过度干燥、热工具造型伤害,或者仅仅是因为你睡觉时没有使用真丝枕套带来的物理摩擦。

Original English

Amanda Rosenthal: I would go with the L'Oreal Paris Elvive Hyaluron and Plump Hydrating Shampoo. It's going to give you a great cleanse, but it's also going to heal your hair by adding in back that moisture. A lot of times frizz can be a result Yes, of humidity and environmental factors, but also of damage, whether that's dryness, overheat styling, or just your wear and tear of, you know, sleeping on a pillow that's not silk.

Rosie Garen: 现在难道还有人睡觉不用真丝枕套吗?

Original English

Rosie Garen: Are people still not sleeping on a silk pillowcase?

Christine Siracusa: 咳,我承认,我目前还在用亚麻材质的枕套。

Original English

Christine Siracusa: I sleep on a linen pillowcase, so yes, I am admitting it. I am admitting it. I know. We'll We'll have to discuss this separately.

Rosie Garen: 我们得私下给你做个心理干预了。

Original English

Rosie Garen: We need an intervention.

Christine Siracusa: 麦克风关掉之后再说吧。

Original English

Christine Siracusa: Off mic.

Rosie Garen: 哈哈。好的,那如果是非常长的头发,但是属于比较松散的波浪卷?

Original English

Rosie Garen: Okay, what if somebody has really long hair with loose curls?

Amanda Rosenthal: 对于中等和粗硬发质的人,我会推荐 California Naturals Classic Clean,它能提供非常爽洁的清洁度。但如果他们属于细软发质,我则会建议选择前面提到过的 Ouai 洗发水。不过总的来说,一般情况下选 California Naturals 那款经典清洁是不会错的。

Original English

Amanda Rosenthal: I would go with the California Naturals Classic Clean because it provides a really good cleanse for medium and thick hair types. I would say if they have super fine hair, I would opt for the way, but overall generally I would go with the classic clean.

Rosie Garen: 好的。那如果是已经花白的灰发,而且发质变得有些粗糙硬挺呢?

Original English

Rosie Garen: Okay, so how about someone whose hair they their hair is now gray and it's gotten a little coarser?

Amanda Rosenthal: 同样推荐 L'Oreal Paris Elvive Hyaluron + Plump Hydrating Shampoo。因为这类发质急需补充流失的水分。这款洗发水在洗净头发的同时绝对不会让发丝干枯,这对于日渐粗糙的灰白发质来说至关重要。

Original English

Amanda Rosenthal: I would also go with the L'Oreal Paris Elvive Hyaluron and Plump Hydrating Shampoo because it's going to add moisture. It cleanses well, but it doesn't strip the hair, which I think is super important with coarse hair types.

Rosie Garen: 好的,那如果是经过化学受损处理的头发,尤其是想要锁色、延长染发寿命的呢?

Original English

Rosie Garen: Okay, so what about chemically treated hair, especially if you want to preserve that color?

Amanda Rosenthal: California Naturals Classic Clean 是一个极好的选择。我们在测试中有很多染过头发的测试者,他们极其喜欢这款洗发水。它不仅锁色安全(color-safe),而且甚至能让他们的挑染头发看起来更加亮丽有光泽。

Original English

Amanda Rosenthal: I think the California Naturals Classic Clean is a great option. We actually had numerous testers who had chemically dyed and treated hair and they loved this shampoo because not only did it preserve their color, it is a color safe shampoo, but it also brightened their highlights.

Rosie Garen: 顺便问一下,你的指南中推荐的所有洗发水,原则上都是染后安全的,对吧?

Original English

Rosie Garen: And all of the shampoos in your guide are technically color safe, correct?

Amanda Rosenthal: 没错,我们筛选的时候就特意确保了这一点,好让它们能适用于所有人。

Original English

Amanda Rosenthal: Correct. We wanted to make sure they worked for everyone.

Rosie Garen: 如果是**一家人(伴侣和孩子们)共用一瓶洗发水,但每个人的发质都完全不一样呢?**Christine,这说的是你吗?

Original English

Rosie Garen: What if somebody shares shampoo with a partner and their kids, but they all have different hair types? Christine, is this you?

Christine Siracusa: 哈哈没错,这就是我的问题。

Original English

Christine Siracusa: This is me. This is my question.

Amanda Rosenthal: 这种情况下,我会毫无保留地推荐 Vanicream Shampoo。这是一款极其经典的温和洗发水,完全无刺激,不含任何香精和色素。它在各种不同的发质上都表现出极佳的兼容性,是一瓶挑不出毛病的标准清洁洗发水。

Original English

Amanda Rosenthal: I would opt for the Vanicream Shampoo. It's your classic shampoo. It's going to be non-irritating. It's fragrance and dye-free. It works across various hair types and it's just a good standard cleanser.

Rosie Garen: 我之前特别惊讶,我完全不知道 Vanicream 和 CeraVe 原来还做洗发水。

Original English

Rosie Garen: I was so surprised that I did not know that Vanicream and CeraVe make hair care products.

Amanda Rosenthal: 它们确实有做。

Original English

Amanda Rosenthal: Yes.

Rosie Garen: 我一直以为它们家只卖护肤霜。看了你的指南之后,我确实买了一瓶 Vanicream 洗发水,我们家现在正在用。虽然现在说结论还为时尚早,但我目前用着感觉非常好,一点都不反感,我觉得我正在慢慢爱上它。

Original English

Rosie Garen: I always think of them as skin care products and so based on your guide, I did get the Vanicream and we've been using it and it's a little early for me to say, but I've not been offended by it at all. I like it. I feel I feel like I could be liking it. Yes.

Amanda Rosenthal: 哈哈,刚开始用,慢慢观察。

好的,如果面对的是严重的头皮屑困扰(major dandruff)?

Original English

Amanda Rosenthal: Early days, early days. Okay, how about someone with major dandruff?

Amanda Rosenthal: 那就选经典的 Head & Shoulders Classic Clean Shampoo(海飞丝经典洁净洗发水),专为解决头皮屑问题而生。

Original English

Amanda Rosenthal: Head and Shoulders Classic Clean Shampoo, which is specifically targeted for dandruff.

Rosie Garen: 确实是老牌经典了,你在任何一家超市或药店都能买到它。

Original English

Rosie Garen: That is like the classic. That's just you're going to find that anywhere, right?

Amanda Rosenthal: 没错。

Original English

Amanda Rosenthal: Exactly.

Rosie Garen: 如果是头皮极度敏感的人(super sensitive scalp)呢?

Original English

Rosie Garen: What about someone, Amanda, with a super sensitive scalp?

Amanda Rosenthal: 依然是 Vanicream Shampoo。因为它的配方非常温和、无添加。

Original English

Amanda Rosenthal: The Vanicream shampoo because

Rosie Garen: 也就是让头皮“冷静”下来。

Original English

Rosie Garen: chill.

Amanda Rosenthal: 对,就是这样。

Original English

Amanda Rosenthal: Yes, exactly.

Rosie Garen: Amanda,我从你这里学到的一点是,如果你身上有湿疹(eczema),你同样可能在头皮上出现湿疹,我以前完全没意识到这一点。这也是我买 Vanicream 的主要原因。

Original English

Rosie Garen: And something I learned from you, Amanda, is that if you have eczema, you can also have eczema on your scalp, and I didn't really realize that. So, that is also why I got the Vanicream.

Amanda Rosenthal: 人们经常忘记,你头皮上的皮肤依然是皮肤。大家往往看着头发心想:“噢,我需要买一瓶能改善我头发发质的洗发水。”但如果你没有一个健康的头皮红利期,你根本不可能长出健康的头发。

Original English

Amanda Rosenthal: People forget that the skin on your scalp is still skin. You know, they see hair and they're like, "Oh, I need to look for a shampoo that caters just specifically towards my hair." But, if you don't have a healthy scalp, you're not going to have healthy hair.

Rosie Garen: 好的,最后一个。头发超级容易出油(super oily hair)的人?

Original English

Rosie Garen: All right, last one. What if somebody has super oily hair?

Amanda Rosenthal: 推荐 Necessaire The Shampoo with Rosemary。它的清洁感非常惊艳。它里面添加了迷迭香成分,能非常有效地平衡头皮的油脂分泌。最棒的是,它洗得很干净,但绝不会洗完之后让你的头皮干到发紧。

Original English

Amanda Rosenthal: I would go with the Necessaire Rosemary shampoo. It's an amazing clean. It has rosemary in it, which can be super helpful for balancing out the scalp, and overall, it does a good job of cleaning without stripping of all the oils.


尾声与好物推荐

Rosie Garen: 好的,我们来到了最后一个固定问题:你最近买的、并且非常喜欢的非洗发水类好物是什么?

Original English

Rosie Garen: We made it to our final question. What's the last thing you bought that you really loved?

Amanda Rosenthal: 可能会让大家有点失望,因为听起来很平淡无奇——我最近买的是一把 Repel 折叠雨伞。但昨天它真的救了我的命,因为我出门前完全没想到会下雨。

Original English

Amanda Rosenthal: A bit underwhelming, but the last thing I bought was the Repel umbrella, and it actually saved me yesterday because I was not expecting rain.

Rosie Garen: 它好在哪里?

Original English

Rosie Garen: Why is it a good umbrella?

Amanda Rosenthal: 首先,它非常非常结实。我以前经历过很多次尴尬的场景:走在马路中央,一阵风吹过来,我的雨伞直接被吹翻反转了过去。我受够了那种窘迫感,这把伞再也不会让我经历那种尴尬了。

Original English

Amanda Rosenthal: Well, first, it is extremely sturdy. I've been a victim of walking across the street, and my umbrella has flipped multiple times, and that embarrassment, I just will not do that anymore.

Rosie Garen: 你的意思是:“淋成落水狗我倒无所谓,关键是不能丢脸。”

Original English

Rosie Garen: You're like, "I don't care about being drenched. It's the humiliation."

Amanda Rosenthal: 可不是嘛。然后你还得在雨里手忙脚乱地想把它掰回来,简直是一场灾难。

这把伞防风防雨的性能极佳,非常坚固。而且我很喜欢它手柄上的自动按钮,轻轻一按,它就会砰地一声弹开。虽然力道有点猛,但关键时刻说不定还能用来防身。

Original English

Amanda Rosenthal: Right? And then trying to fix it, and you're like fuddling with it's it's a disaster. For rain and wind, super sturdy. I love the button that you just click, and it essentially bounces open. It's a little scary, but you know, could be a great for your self-protection. You never know.

Rosie Garen: 哈哈,防身用伞,学到了。

Original English

Rosie Garen: we go.

Amanda Rosenthal: 没错。

Original English

Amanda Rosenthal: Exactly.

Rosie Garen: 好的,非常感谢你,Amanda。感谢你今天加入我们,并大方分享了这么多护发智慧。真的对我们太有帮助了。

Original English

Rosie Garen: Well, thank you so much, Amanda. Thank you for joining us, and thank you for imparting all of this wisdom. It's really helpful.

Amanda Rosenthal: 谢谢你们邀请我。

Original English

Amanda Rosenthal: Thank you all for having me.

Kyra Blackwell: Amanda 真的太棒了。

Original English

Kyra Blackwell: Amanda was a delight.

Christine Siracusa: 没错,真期待能早点邀请她再来节目。

Original English

Christine Siracusa: Can't wait to have her back on the show.

Rosie Garen: 她的指南里有太多干货了,而且她今天把它们总结得非常清晰。我今天最大的收获之一虽然很简单,但很治愈:那就是在挑选洗发水时,我们不需要为了追求效果去买昂贵的沙龙级产品。

Original English

Rosie Garen: So much good information from that guide and so much that she was able to impart with us today. One of the things I'm taking away is so simple, but it's that you don't necessarily have to be paying more to get more when we're talking about shampoo.

Kyra Blackwell: 没错,听到这个我的钱包都松了一口气。

Original English

Kyra Blackwell: Yeah, that's music to my ears.

Christine Siracusa: 我的收获则是:我以后买洗发水和护发素时,再也不强求买成套的了。我会单独思考我的洗发水要解决什么头皮问题,我的护发素要解决什么发尾问题。它们根本不需要是同一个品牌或同一个系列。

Original English

Christine Siracusa: Yeah. My takeaway is that I am not going to default anymore to buying the same shampoo and conditioner. I'm going to think a little bit more about what I'm trying to treat with the shampoo and what I'm trying to treat with the conditioner and they don't need to be matching. I can go with different brands.

Kyra Blackwell: 赞同,这确实是个好思路。我想我的最大收获绝对是:硫酸盐不再是宿敌了。

Original English

Kyra Blackwell: Yeah, that's a great one. I think my takeaway is definitely that sulfates are not the enemy anymore.

Rosie Garen: 是的,配方科技已经在改变。现在的硫酸盐洗发水添加了调理剂,而且浓度也很低,对大多数人来说不仅无害,反而是更好的清洁选择。

Original English

Rosie Garen: Yeah, technology has changed a bit. Now we have conditioning agents and they're not as concentrated anymore.

Kyra Blackwell: 确实,对于一部分人来说,使用含有硫酸盐的洗发水反而是对发质更好的选择。这真的很颠覆认知。

Original English

Kyra Blackwell: So maybe a shampoo with actually better for a lot of people's hair. It's just good to know.

Christine Siracusa: 没错。虽然我们指南里的洗发水并不全都有硫酸盐,但确实有一部分是的。

Original English

Christine Siracusa: Yeah. I think not all of the picks that we have in our guide have sulfates in them, but some of them do.

Rosie Garen: 是的,有一些是的。

如果你想查看 Amanda 撰写的洗发水选购指南,以及包括护发素在内的其他个护测评,请访问我们的网站。一如既往,我们会在播客的文字介绍(show notes)中附上链接。

Christine,Kyra,今天我们三人在节目中碰头,真的很开心。下周再见啦!

Original English

Rosie Garen: Some of them do, yeah. And if you actually want to check out Amanda's guide to shampoo, any of our other coverage including conditioners, check out our website and we will link in our show notes as ever. Christine and Kyra, a three-fer. This was a This was a real treat. See you next week.

Kyra Blackwell: 下周见!

Original English

Kyra Blackwell: Bye.

Rosie Garen: 本期播客由 Rosie Garen 担任执行制片人,由 Abigail Kiehl 担任制片人。工程技术支持由 Maddie Massielo 和 Nick Pittman 提供。本期节目由 Catherine Anderson 混音。原创音乐创作者包括 Dan Powell, Marian Lozano, Elisabeth Eitu, Catherine Anderson, Rowan Nemiasto 以及 Diane Wong。Cliff Leavy 是 Wirecutter 的副发行人兼总经理。Ben Fruman 是 Wirecutter 的总编辑。

我是 Kyra Blackwell。

Original English

Rosie Garen: The Wirecutter Show is executive produced by Rosie Garen and produced by Abigail Kiehl. Engineering support from Maddie Massielo and Nick [music] Pittman. Today's episode was mixed by Catherine Anderson. Original music by Dan Powell, Marian [music] Lozano, Elisabeth Eitu, Catherine Anderson, Rowan Nemiasto, and Diane Wong. Cliff Leavy is Wirecutter's deputy publisher and general manager. Ben Fruman is Wirecutter's [music] editor-in-chief. I'm Kira Blackwell.

Christine Siracusa: 我是 Christine Siracusa。

Original English

Christine Siracusa: I'm Christine Seracusa.

Rosie Garen: 我是 Rosie Garen。感谢大家的收听。

Original English

Rosie Garen: And I'm Rosie Garen. Thanks for listening.

Rosie Garen: 是的,所以你只需要一瓶能让你的头皮和头发感觉健康、干净,又不会太干的洗发水。抱歉,我刚才嘴瓢了。

Original English

Rosie Garen: Yeah, so you just want you want a shampoo that makes you feel happy and healthy and like not not too drying or whatever. I'm sorry.

Kyra Blackwell: 哈哈,没关系,大家都听懂了。

Original English

Kyra Blackwell: No, I think you got it.

Christine Siracusa: 完美!

Original English

Christine Siracusa: You got it. Got it. Yeah.

Rosie Garen: 好的。

Original English

Rosie Garen: All right.

Kyra Blackwell: 我们还有一件事。

Original English

Kyra Blackwell: And another thing.

Christine Siracusa: 还有一件事。

Original English

Christine Siracusa: And another thing.

Rosie Garen: 还有一件……

Original English

Rosie Garen: And another.

关键字: hair-care-science consumer-guidance product-evaluation