罐头鱼的复兴:从“惩罚”到餐桌上的高奢美味 New York Times Podcasts 2026-04-01

罐头鱼的复兴:从家庭传统到潮流单品

Christine: 我觉得最好的例子就是鳕鱼肝(cod liver),听起来——

Original English

Christine: I think the best example of that is the cod liver which sounds—

Kyra: 听起来很好吃。

Original English

Kyra: >> which sounds delicious.

Christine: 其实听起来像是一种惩罚,但我读了指南,它被认为是海洋里的肥鹅肝(foie gras of the sea),对吧?

Original English

Christine: >> It actually sounds like a punishment but I did read the guide and it's supposed to be like the fuagra of the sea, right?

Kyra: 是的。我想我们大家最后都对它的美味程度感到相当惊喜。

Original English

Kyra: >> Yes. And I think we were all quite pleasantly surprised by how much we like it.

Christine: 我是 Christine Cyr Clisset。我是 Kyra Blackwell。你正在收听的是《Wirecutter Show》。

Original English

Christine: >> I'm Christine Sir Cleette. I'm Kyra Blackwell. And you're listening to the Wire Cutter Show.

Kyra: 嗨。

Original English

Kyra: >> Hi.

Christine: 你好。

Original English

Christine: >> Hello.

Kyra: 好了,Christine,今天我们要聊聊罐头鱼(tinned fish)

Original English

Kyra: >> Okay, Christine, today we're talking about tinned fish.

Christine: 噢啦啦,罐头鱼。多跟我讲讲。

Original English

Christine: >> Ooh la la. Tinned fish. Tell me more.

Kyra: 嗯,我提起这个话题主要是想为你搭好台,让你能上台发表你的长篇大论,讲讲你当年是如何错过了在这个领域赚几百万的机会的。

Original English

Kyra: >> Well, I'm really bringing this up to you because I just want to set the stage for you to really hop on your soap box and talk about how you missed out on making millions in this area.

Christine: 噢,Kyra,你真了解我。我感觉被看穿了。嗯,是的。我觉得我几年前就应该加入罐头鱼的热潮。它现在变得太流行了。你会在很多精品店,甚至像 Whole Foods 这样的地方看到罐头鱼。它正逐渐成为美国人眼中一种真正的美味佳肴。我出身于商业捕鱼世家,从小就在家里做金枪鱼罐头。

Original English

Christine: Oh, Kyra, you heard me. I feel seen. Um, yes. I feel that I should have jumped on the tinned fish bandwagon a few years ago. Um, it's become so popular. Uh, you're seeing tinned fish at a lot of specialty shops at places like Whole Foods. It's becoming much more of, you know, a delicacy that people in the United States are eating. And I come from a commercial fishing family. I grew up canning tuna at home. So cool.

Kyra: 太酷了。

Original English

Kyra: So cool.

Christine: 是的。那是最好的金枪鱼。我感觉,搞什么鬼?为什么我没在90年代想到这个主意?我当时就可以卖罐头鱼了——

Original English

Christine: It Yes. It's the best tuna. And I feel like, what the heck? Why didn't I come up with this idea back in the '9s? I could have been selling tinned fish at

Kyra: 但平心而论,你当时可能根本没想到它会变成这样一种奢侈品

Original English

Kyra: >> But to be fair, you probably had no idea that it would become like this luxurious item. Like

Christine: 我知道,我确实在国外留学过,我在西班牙待了很长时间。所以我确实知道世界上的某些地方非常推崇罐头鱼,但坦率地说,直到最近几年,这股风潮才真正传到美国。所以,我很兴奋能和 Wirecutter 内部非常了解罐头鱼的人聊聊。Margarite Preston 是我们的编辑总监,她负责所有的厨房内容报道,她撰写了我们的《罐头鱼指南》,那是一份非常棒的指南。那份指南里有 24 条推荐建议。

Original English

Christine: >> I, you know, I did I did study abroad. I I spent a lot of time in Spain. So I did know that parts of the world really appreciate tinned fish, but it really hasn't caught up in the United States until until just the last few years, honestly. So, I'm excited to talk with someone who knows a lot about tinned fish here at Wire Cutter. Margaret Preston is our editorial director who oversees all of our kitchen coverage, and she has written our guide to tinned fish, which is an excellent guide. That guide has 24 recommendations.

为什么罐头鱼突然爆火?

Kyra: 是的,推荐了很多。我简直不敢相信,这意味着厨房团队必须品尝大量的鱼,最后才能选出这么多。他们品尝了从鳀鱼(anchovies)鲭鱼(mackerel)到金枪鱼罐头、三文鱼、贻贝罐头等所有东西。他们甚至刚发布了一份专门针对沙丁鱼罐头的独立指南。而且,既然我们在 Wirecutter 这里显然对罐头鱼彻底疯狂了,我还要提一下,Margarite 最近出现在一段非常有趣的 YouTube 视频中,她在镜头前尝试了一堆罐头鱼。所以你们可以在那个视频中看到我们在本集节目中讨论的一些罐头。那是 Wirecutter 刚在 YouTube 上推出的新“味觉测试”系列的一部分。休息之后,我们将深入探讨罐头鱼新手应该了解的细节、最佳食用方法,以及我们厨房团队发现的一些最美味的罐头。我们马上回来。

Original English

Kyra: >> Yeah, it has a lot of wrecks. >> I can't believe that means that the kitchen team had to have tasted a lot of fish to still end up with that many. So they have everything from anchovies and mackerel to things like canned tuna, salmon, canned muscles. They even just published a separate guide focused just on canned sardines. And because apparently we are completely bonkers for tinned fish over here at Wire Cutter, I should also mention that Margarite was in a really fun YouTube video recently where she tries out a bunch of tinned fish on camera. So you can see some of the cans we actually talk about in this episode on that video. It's part of a new taste test series that Wire Cutter just launched on YouTube. After the break, we're getting into the details of what the uninitiated should know about tinned fish, the best ways to serve it, and some of the most delicious cans that our kitchen team found. We'll be right back.

Christine: 欢迎回来。现在坐在我们身边的是 Margarite Preston,她是负责厨房团队的编辑总监。她几乎参与了我们所有的厨房指南。为了这份罐头鱼指南,她测试了超过 100 罐罐头鱼,以找出哪些是真的好吃、令人兴奋或值得作为礼物赠送的。欢迎来到我们的节目,Margarite。

Original English

Christine: Welcome back. With us now is Margarite Preston, who's an editorial director overseeing our kitchen team. She's had her hand in nearly all of our kitchen guides. And for our tin fish guide, she tested over 100 cans of tinned fish to figure out which ones are actually delicious, exciting, or worth gifting. Welcome to the show, Margarite.

Margarite: 谢谢。谢谢你们邀请我。

Original English

Margarite: Thank you. Thank you for having me.

Christine: 我打算在这集节目的开头先发一通牢骚,讲讲我有多生气自己没能建立一个罐头鱼帝国,因为过去几年似乎涌现出了这么多神奇的小公司。为什么罐头鱼的人气最近突然爆炸式增长?

Original English

Christine: I am gonna just start this episode with a total diet tribe of how mad I am that I did not create a tinned fish empire because there seem to be all of these amazing little companies that have cropped up over the last few years. Why has the popularity of these just exploded recently?

Margarite: 我想首先要说的是,人气在美国爆炸了。在世界各地的许多其他国家,这种人气从未消失。在西班牙或葡萄牙,去酒吧喝杯饮料再配点罐头鱼,这已经成为文化的重要组成部分。但在美国,我只能推测。我没有明确的答案,但我认为这种势头是在疫情期间开始回升的。你可以推测疫情初期人们突然对罐头食品产生的渴求,确实有一部分原因是人们突然意识到:“噢,有一些保质期长的东西挺好的。”

此外,我认为还有社交媒体的因素。很多精致的罐头鱼看起来非常漂亮。它们的包装非常精美。你甚至打开它们后,它们就像容器里的一颗颗美丽的小银色珠宝。TikTok 真的在普及罐头鱼方面做了很多贡献,当时我们都被困在家里寻找消遣。而且,我认为美国有很多公司确实抓住了这个机会——

Original English

Margarite: I mean, first of all, I should say the popularity has exploded in America. >> Yeah. Yeah. Yeah. Many other countries across the world, the popularity never went away. It's been a big part of the culture to like go to a bar in Spain or Portugal and just get tinfish with your drink and that's it. But in America, I can only theorize. I don't have any like clear answers, but I think it sort of started picking up steam in the pandemic. And I think you could theorize away about the sort of like sudden coveting of canned goods that happened early in the pandemic, but I do think there's probably a little element of that where people suddenly were like, "Oh, it's it's nice to have shelf stable things." There's also, I think, the sort of social media aspect of it where like a lot of these fancy tinned fish just look really beautiful. They come in really beautiful packages. You open them up even and they're like these beautiful little silver jewels in a container. Tik Tok honestly probably did a lot for kind of popularizing tinned fish at a time when we were at home and kind of like looking for entertainment. And you know I think there are a number of companies in the United States really capitalized on that

Christine: 比如 Fishwife 就是其中很大的一家。

Original English

Christine: >> like Fishwife is one of the big one.

Margarite: 是的。但是,你要知道,很多这些东西实际上来自西班牙和葡萄牙,包装很美,而且已经存在了几十年。

Original English

Margarite: Yeah. But, you know, again, a lot of this stuff is like actually from Spain and Portugal, and the packaging is beautiful, but it's been around for decades.

Kyra: 没错。我的 TikTok 以前全是这些美丽的女性在漂亮的大理石厨房里。她们吃着罐头鱼、鱼子酱和薯片,看起来非常奢华。我完全能理解这种热度。

Original English

Kyra: >> Right. Right. >> My TikTok was just full of these beautiful women in these beautiful marble kitchens. And they had tinned fish in like caviar and chips, and it looks so luxurious. I could totally see the hype.

Christine: 而且它对你也很有好处。鱼肉对你有益,对你的皮肤、指甲、头发都有好处——

Original English

Christine: >> And it's like good for you, too. You know, a fish is good for you. Good for your skin, your nails, your hair,

Kyra: 还有大脑。高蛋白,诸如此类的。

Original English

Kyra: >> your brain. High protein, all of that.

罐头鱼指南:从入门到进阶

Christine: 是的。所以,说清楚一点,在这一份指南中,你们不仅在测试那些所谓的“无聊”罐头鱼,对吧?不是那种水浸金枪鱼,也不是仅仅用来撒在披萨上的鳀鱼。这些是更精致的那种,但可选的还是很多。那么,你们是如何缩小选择范围的呢?

Original English

Christine: >> Yeah. So, to be clear, for this particular guide, you guys weren't just testing your quote quote "boring" tinfish, right? No like tuna in water or anchovies just to slap on top of a pizza. These are the ones that are kind of more fancy, but there's still so many to pick from. So, how did you guys manage to narrow it down?

Margarite: 首先,我反对把任何东西称为无聊。

Original English

Margarite: >> Okay, so first of all, I object to anything being boring.

Christine: 反对有效。

Original English

Christine: >> Object.

Kyra: 我觉得普通的金枪鱼罐头确实挺无聊的。

Original English

Kyra: >> I think Canton is pretty boring.

Margarite: 好吧,比如那种基本的 Bumblebee 之类的。确实有点无聊。但市面上也有非常好吃的纯沙丁鱼、非常好吃的纯金枪鱼。我们只是没测试那些,因为那是另一个世界,可以单独出一份指南了。对于这份指南,尤其是我们做的第一份罐头鱼报道,我确实想捕捉那个大家对派对上会出现的那种“好玩又精致”的东西感兴趣的时刻。所以我确实重点关注了那些。但除此之外,我真的想,你知道的,市面上有无数的东西,我必须缩小范围,但我希望捕捉到鱼的种类和产地国家的多样性。

Original English

Margarite: >> Okay, like your basic Bumblebee, whatever. Sure, kind of boring. But there is really lovely like plain sardines, really lovely plain tune out there. We just didn't test those because we were like that's the own world that could be its own guide. For this guide, I think for the sort of like first covers that we did of Tinfish, I did want to kind of capture that moment where people were interested in the kind of like fun fancy stuff that you could have at a party or whatever. So, I did really focus on that. But outside of that, I really wanted to kind of, you know, there's a gazillion things out there and I had to narrow it down, but I wanted to sort of capture variety both in sort of the types of fish and also the country of origin.

Kyra: 嗯。

Original English

Kyra: >> Mh.

Margarite: 接着我花了很多时间研究那些专门售卖数百种不同罐头鱼的零售商。

Original English

Margarite: >> Then I spent a lot of time looking at there are like retailers that sell just hundreds of different kinds of tinfish.

Christine: 哇。

Original English

Christine: Wow.

Margarite: 所以我花了很多时间研究这些,了解其他大品牌来自哪些国家,了解鱼的种类范围。你知道的,大类通常是沙丁鱼、金枪鱼、鲭鱼,甚至是三文鱼。

Original English

Margarite: >> So, I spent a lot of time just kind of looking at those, getting a sense of what the big brands were from other countries, getting a sense of sort of like what the ranges of types of fish like. You know, the big ones are your sardines, your tuna, your mackerel, even salmon.

Kyra: 但你们也测试了像**贻贝(mussels)**或者——

Original English

Kyra: >> But then you guys also tested things like muscles or

Margarite: **鳟鱼(trout)**是另一种非常常见的。

Original English

Margarite: >> trout is another one that's like very common.

Kyra: 还有像章鱼鱿鱼之类的东西。

Original English

Kyra: >> Things like octopus and squid.

Christine: 香。你们是不是也在测试这些罐头的“美化”程度?因为你可能想把它们当作礼物,或者想要一些看起来很精致的东西,这样在家吃的时候就不会觉得无聊。

Original English

Christine: >> Yum. You guys were also kind of testing for I don't know the beautifification of these cans too, right? cuz you want to be able to maybe gift them or have something that's just nice and it doesn't feel boring when you're eating it at home.

Margarite: 是的。我几乎把这份指南当作我们的礼品指南之一。你知道,我们的大多数味觉测试实际上是“苹果对苹果”的比较,做非常严密的侧向对比。而这一份指南,我更多是在寻找多样性、愉悦感,以及你会想要作为伴手礼送人,或者打开作为漂亮的冷拼盘招待客人的东西。这意味着要看包装,注意打开后的样子。还有它直接食用的难易程度。并不是所有的罐头都适合直接吃。

Original English

Margarite: Yeah. I almost thought of and approached this guide as kind of like one of our gift guides. You know, most of our taste tests were actually comparing apples to apples basically and we're doing these really close sideby-side comparisons. This one I was just more looking for variety and delight and something that you would want to like bring as a host gift or open up and serve as a pretty spread. So that meant looking at the packaging, paying attention to how it looks when you open it up. How easy it is to eat on its own. Not all of these are easy to eat on their own.

Christine: 所以你在指南中分了这些不同的类别。我想你有三个主要的罐头鱼类别。一个是沙丁鱼和鲭鱼,对吧?然后你有金枪鱼、三文鱼、鳟鱼。接着是你刚才提到的那些,比如软体动物、牡蛎、蛤蜊,还有对我来说很可怕的鱿鱼。有没有哪些对新手来说更容易接受?对于“菜鸟级”选手,你会建议从哪里开始?

Original English

Christine: >> So you have these different categories in the guide. I think you have three main categories of the tinned fish. I think there's the sardines and mackerel, right? Um, then you have the tuna, the salmon, the trout, and then you have the ones you just mentioned, the sort of the mlllesks, the the oysters, the clams, the dreaded squid for me. Um, are there some that are more approachable for the uninitiated? I guess for like beginner level, where would you point people to start?

Margarite: 我会建议从鳟鱼、金枪鱼和三文鱼开始。与沙丁鱼和鲭鱼相比,它们没那么油。你得到的是罐头里的鱼排。要知道,当你买沙丁鱼时,它是除了头以外的整条鱼。

Original English

Margarite: I would start with the trout, the tuna, the salmon. Compared to like sardines and mackerel, they're a little less oily. You're also getting a fillet in the tin. You're not, you know, when you get a sardine, it's like the whole fish minus the head.

Kyra: 骨头还在里面。内脏也在,你知道,虽然不是全部内脏,但——

Original English

Kyra: >> The bones are in there. The guts, you know, not all the guts, but

Margarite: 一部分内脏。一点点内脏。一点点骨头。我总是拿不准。

Original English

Margarite: >> some of the guts. Just a little bit of the guts. A little bit of bones. I never know.

Kyra: 是的,骨头是可以吃的。

Original English

Kyra: >> Yes, you can eat the bones.

Margarite: 有些人会把它们挑出来,但你完全可以吃。它们在罐装过程中会变得非常软。只是有一点点脆。我认为鳟鱼可能是最好的选择之一。它是一种非常温和、轻盈的鱼。我们有一些非常棒的鳟鱼选择。如果你对鱼比较忌惮,那就从那里开始。然后从那以后,如果有人知道自己可以接受鱼腥味更重一点的东西,不介意那些味道,你会建议他们吗?鲭鱼可能会相当腥?

Original English

Margarite: >> Um, some people pick them out, but you can totally eat. They get pretty soft in the canning process. They're just a little bit crunchy. Trout, I think, is is maybe one of the best. It's like a really nice mild light fish. We have some really great trout options. If you're like fish wary, that's where I would start. And then from there, if somebody knows that they are cool with something a little fishier, like they they don't mind those flavors, would you point them mackerel can be pretty fishy?

Kyra: 是的。

Original English

Kyra: >> Yep. Yeah.

Margarite: 没错。这些油脂丰富的鱼,沙丁鱼和鲭鱼。

Original English

Margarite: >> So, these oilier fish, the the sardines and the and the mackerel.

Kyra: 是的。

Original English

Kyra: >> Yeah.

Margarite: 它们可以非常鲜美,吃起来很新鲜。然后像贻贝、章鱼之类对于一些人来说,在**质地(texture)**和视觉上可能更具挑战性。

Original English

Margarite: >> Which can be really lovely and like fresh tasting. And then kind of like the muscles and the octopus and stuff like that can be more texturally challenging, I think, to people and visually challenging.

Christine: 是否可以这样说,如果你很难接受新鲜贻贝或牡蛎的质地,那你可能也不会喜欢罐装的?

Original English

Christine: >> Is it fair to say that if you have a hard time with the texture of muscles or oysters fresh, you might not like them canned?

Margarite: 是的,那是不同的质地,有些人甚至会形容它更糟,比如更有嚼劲。罐头里的蛤蜊可能有点韧,但它确实是这种带着所有器官的生物。咬下去的感觉很有趣。

Original English

Margarite: >> Yeah, it's a different texture, but some might even describe it as worse, like chewier. Clams can be a little chewy in the can, but it's still it is like this, you know, creature with this one really does have all its organs inside of it. Like, it's a it's a funny bite.

为什么一罐小鱼能卖到30美元?

Christine: 我们在这份指南中推荐的很多罐头鱼都挺贵的。有些一罐可能超过 30 美元,这很贵。你也推荐了一些在 6 美元左右的,这对我来说听起来还是很贵。你能解释一下为什么这些选项这么贵吗?

Original English

Christine: So, a lot of the tinfish that we recommend in this guide are kind of expensive. Some can be over $30 for a can, which is a lot. You also recommend a few that are more like in the $6 range, which to me still sounds like a lot for canned fish. Can you explain why these options are so expensive?

Margarite: 我认为它们之所以更贵,通常是因为食品溢价的所有常规原因。比如原材料的质量。那是高质量的鱼。你想想,你去鱼贩那里,去高档超市买新鲜鱼,它们就很贵。所以这是一点。另外,很多这些都是手工包装(hand-packed)的。不只是工厂机械化地把鱼塞进罐子里。是一些非常老派的罐头厂,那里的人会手工切割每一条鱼,然后小心翼翼地放入罐中,让它们看起来非常精美。你可以在 YouTube 上搜到这些视频,一些老派的葡萄牙工厂之类在做这个,他们甚至用手纸包装罐头。所以所有这些手工劳动都增加了成本。而且这些还是小规模生产,并不是那种几十万罐的大规模生产。

Original English

Margarite: I think they're more expensive for all the sort of usual reasons that food can be more expensive. Like there's the quality of the ingredients. Like it's high quality fish. If you think about, you know, you go to a fish monger, you go to like a nice grocery store and you buy a fresh fish. Like they're expensive. So there's that. Also, a lot of these are being handpacked. It's not just some factory kind of like pumping fish into a can. It's these little like really old school caneries where there are people that are individually cutting the fish and carefully placing them into the can so they look really beautiful. You can look this up. There's like really cool videos on YouTube of like really old school like Portuguese factories or whatever that are doing this where they're even like wrapping it in paper by hand. Like it's, you know, so all of that manual labor adds to the cost too. And it's these are also like smaller production, you know, it's like not like they're producing hundreds of thousands of these. Yeah.

Christine: 是的。

Original English

Christine: Yeah.

Margarite: 顺便说一下,我在做这些推荐时肯定考虑了价格,但我没有把它权重放得太高,同样是因为它们就像一份礼物。那是为了特殊场合准备的。你不是每天午饭都买这个。

Original English

Margarite: >> You know, and I should say too like I I definitely like thought about price in these recommendations, but I didn't weigh it so heavily again because they're like a gifty. It's a special occasion thing. It's not like you're buying this for your lunch every day.

如何打造完美的罐头鱼冷拼盘

Kyra: 接下来我们要多聊聊一些特别适合直接从罐里吃,或者是那些比较高档的选择。在指南中,你也推荐了一些没达到那个级别,但很适合烹饪的罐头鱼。那么,适合直接当开胃菜吃和适合加入食谱的罐头鱼,分界线在哪里?

Original English

Kyra: We're going to talk a lot more about some of the recommendations which are really for eating straight out of the can or, you know, these kind of elevated options. In the guide, you also have some recommendations for tinned fish that didn't quite make it to that level, but that were good for cooking. What's the dividing line between tinned fish that's good for integrating into a recipe versus something that is great for serving as an appetizer or just on its own?

Margarite: 部分原因在于一种“氛围”。很多可以直接吃的东西在食谱里也会很美味,尤其是简单的沙丁鱼之类的,拌在面条里会非常棒。但我觉得对我们来说,分界线在于:我能不能在晚宴上打开这一罐,直接摆在桌上让大家吃?还是说我必须添加一堆东西,才能让普通人觉得它有食欲?

比如“烹饪类”里的例子,有一种来自阿拉斯加 Wild Fish Cannery 公司的熏鲱鱼(smoked herring),非常美味,有很浓的烟熏味,非常咸。它的味道非常强。味道很好,但单独吃的话有点太冲了。如果把它做成蘸酱(dip),拌入蛋黄酱、酸奶油、香草、柠檬等,味道会非常惊人。同样的例子还有罐装鳕鱼,我们发现买的大多数鳕鱼罐头实际上是盐渍鳕鱼(salt cod),同样非常咸——

Original English

Margarite: Partially, it's just a vibe. Plenty of the things that you could serve on your own would also be delicious in a recipe, like especially the simpler sardines or something like in a pasta would be lovely. But I think what it came down to for us was could I open up this tin at a dinner party and put it on the table and people would eat it or would I have to like add a bunch of stuff to it to make it kind of appealing for the average person to eat? So like some examples from the cooking category were like this smoked herring from a company in Alaska, Wild Fish Canery, which was really delicious. Had a very strong smoke flavor. It was very salty. Quite It was just like strong strong flavors. And the flavors were delicious, but on their own they were a little overpowering. It was just like a little too much. like you kind of needed to it would have been really incredible if you had made it into like a a dip, you know, like mixed it with some mayonnaise, sour cream, herbs, lemon, etc. Same with like there you can buy like tin cod and what we found was most of the cod the tin cod that we bought was actually salt cod and again it was like a very salty

Kyra: 听起来不错。我想有些人会喜欢的。

Original English

Kyra: >> sounds good. Some people I think liked some of them. Okay.

Margarite: 但对我来说,这不是那种能直接吃的东西。但如果把它煮进菜里,比如拌上土豆之类的,会非常美味。

Original English

Margarite: But like to me it was just like not something you could really eat on its own. But again would be delicious if you could cook it into a dish like mix it with potatoes or something like that.

Kyra: 我刚才提到在 TikTok 上看到这些视频,人们摆出华丽的冷拼盘。有时有人会说:“噢,我再加一勺鱼子酱画龙点睛。”这对我来说不太现实。那么,对于那些想把这当成正餐吃的人,你有什么“食谱”吗?也许他们不想煮整锅意面,但他们可能有一点脆饼干之类的,或者是可以装饰一下的东西。你有什么建议吗?

Original English

Kyra: >> I have seen these videos again that I mentioned on Tik Tok of these people putting their tin fish and they're making these gorgeous spreads to go with it. Sometimes somebody be like, "Oh, I'll just put like a bump of caviar to top it off." That's not realistic for me. Yeah. So, do you have any like quote unquote recipes for people who do want to make a meal out of it? Maybe they don't want to cook a whole pasta dish, but they might have like a thin cracker of some sort, maybe something to garnish it. Do you have anything like that?

Margarite: 是的。我认为最重要的一点就是味道和质地的对比。因为是罐头,即使是加了柠檬的鲭鱼,柠檬味也更倾向于花香和果皮味,而不是那种明亮的酸味。鱼总是和柠檬很搭,所以挤一点新鲜柠檬汁或者加点酸,加点辣酱,这些都非常棒。还有就是新鲜度。罐头鱼味道很好,但毕竟在罐子里待了一段时间。所以切碎一些新鲜香草,不仅能增加绿色的视觉对比,还能带来新鲜的风味。

此外,有些罐头自带浓郁的奶油酱汁,真的不需要加任何东西。但对于其他的,你可能想加一点奶油感。我很喜欢用蛋黄酱。你刚才描述的冷拼盘听起来像是请朋友来家里,准备开胃菜。传统上你会摆出奶酪盘,配上萨拉米香肠和橄榄之类的。你会把罐头鱼也放进那个拼盘吗?你会把罐头鱼和其他东西混在一起放在奶酪盘上吗?

Original English

Margarite: >> Yeah. So, I think the main thing you want is just kind of like >> flavor and textural contrast. So like the fish because they're canned, even if it's like a, you know, a mackerel with lemon or something like that, which we tried and recommend, like the lemon flavor is going to be more of like floral rindy lemon flavor than that kind of like bright acidic thing. Fish is always good with lemon, so like a nice little like squeeze of like fresh lemon or some kind of acid, little hot sauce, that kind of thing is great. And then freshness. They taste delicious, but they're they've been sitting in a can. So like chopped up fine herbs like to add a little green like visual contrast the green and then also the kind of like fresh flavor. >> Also for some of these some of these come in like a nice creamy sauce and like really don't need anything. But for other ones you might want to add a little kind of creaminess to it. I really like just mayonnaise. The spread you're describing to me sounds a little bit like you're having friends over and you have an appetizer. You would traditionally put out a cheese board with maybe some salami and olives and stuff. Is this something you would actually like tuck into that spread? Like would you put a canned fish in with your other items on the cheese board?

Kyra: 我想我会把鱼单独放在一个小盘里。我不确定想不想让鱼和奶酪在同一个盘子上混在一起。但这样确实很好,再配上酸味、解腻的东西。比如一些腌辣椒或橄榄,打开几罐不同的鱼,再加上柠檬角、脆饼干——那种脆脆的感觉可以抵消鱼肉的质地。你是直接在罐子里端上来,还是会倒进别的容器?这取决于情况。我会寻找那些可以直接端上桌的罐头,很多看起来确实很漂亮。至少当你刚打开的时候。一旦你开始挖着吃,它就不那么美了。

但有些在打开的一瞬间确实很惊艳。也有一些我绝对不会直接在罐子里端上桌的,因为视觉冲击力太强了。

Original English

Kyra: >> Yeah, I mean I wouldn't I think I would make my own little fish just separate. I don't know if I'd have fish and cheese comingling together on the plate, but yeah. And it can be really nice again like acidic tart things. So like some nice pickled peppers or olives, a few different open tins of fish plus that plus some lemon wedges plus crackers like some nice like crunch to offset the fish. And are you serving them directly in the cans or are you decanting them into something else? It depends. I did look for ones that were you could serve right out of the cans and a lot of them look really beautiful. At least when you first open it. As soon as you dig in, it's going to start to not look as beautiful. But some of them are really stunning when you open them up. There are some that I would not serve out of the can cuz it's just a little too much visually.

鳕鱼肝:海洋里的“肥鹅肝”

Christine: 我觉得最好的例子就是鳕鱼肝——

Original English

Christine: >> I think the best example of that is the cod liver

Kyra: 听起来很好吃。

Original English

Kyra: >> which sounds delicious.

Margarite: 实际上听起来像是一种惩罚。但我读了指南,它被认为是海洋里的肥鹅肝,对吧?

Original English

Margarite: >> It actually sounds like a punishment. But I did read the guide and it's supposed to be like the fuagra of the sea, right?

Christine: 是的。我想我们大家最后都对它的美味感到相当惊喜。它是一种非常肥美的肝。在质地上,它非常柔软。当你刚打开罐头时,它看起来糟糕透了(god awful)。但它的风味,我会形容为鳀鱼加黄油。它是那种咸咸的、非常有鲜味的鱼味。味道非常纯净。强烈推荐。但如果你把它抹在吐司上,挤一点柠檬,撒点切碎的香草,香草就能盖住它那奇怪的外表,也就是下面那个“噩梦”。

Original English

Christine: >> Yes. And I think we were all quite pleasantly surprised by how much we like it. It is this very kind of like fatty liver. Texturally, it's very soft. It looks god awful. Um when you open the can, but the flavor, like I would describe the flavor as like anchovies and butter. >> Like it's this salty, very savory, fishy flavor. It's a very clean flavor. Highly recommend it. But if you put a little on toast, you do a little squeeze of lemon, you chop some herbs, the herbs kind of cover up whatever kind of funky looks there are, the nightmare going on underneath.

Kyra: 会是一个非常漂亮的开胃菜。是的。我正在想象我要做的那个冷拼盘,但我很好奇,你配什么饼干?因为我想不能用太硬的。我可能会选比较“接地气”的苏打饼干(saltine)。但这行吗?Margarite,这样可以吗?

Original English

Kyra: >> Be a really beautiful appetizer. Yeah. Uh, I am picturing the spread I'm going to make, but I'm curious, what kind of crackers do you serve with tinned fish? Because I would imagine you wouldn't want to go too crunchy. I would probably want to go low brow and do a saltine. Um, but is that okay? Is that okay, Margaret?

Margarite: 我说行。我们在品鉴时用的就是苏打饼干。我觉得苏打饼干很棒,因为它有一定的咸度,但味道相对平淡。不过,你也可以选那种长长的、薄薄的、精致的薄饼。还有面包。

Original English

Margarite: >> I say yes. And that's what we had in our tasting. I think a saltine is great cuz it has a certain level of like salt, but it's pretty bland. But, you know, you could also do like a I'm imagining kind of like a long, thin, delicate, flatbreddy type thing. But also bread.

Kyra: 面包。

Original English

Kyra: >> Bread.

Margarite: 嗯。就是一些好吃的切片面包。有些罐头自带非常美味的酱汁,你可能真的想用面包蘸着吃。我太喜欢那样了。

Original English

Margarite: >> Mhm. >> Just some nice sliced bread. Some of these they come with these really lovely sauces that you actually might want to mop up with the bread a little bit. I love that.

专家私藏:四款必试的顶级推荐

Christine: 好的,如果你是个新手,不确定自己是否真的喜欢罐头鱼,你应该从温和的东西开始,比如金枪鱼、三文鱼或鳟鱼。如果你觉得自己喜欢这个,那么你可以深入研究,尝试更有挑战性的,比如更油、鱼腥味更重、味道更刺激的鲭鱼或沙丁鱼。如果你想把这当作一顿正餐,为派对准备一个冷拼盘,或者只是晚上为自己准备一份精致的“女孩晚餐(girl dinner)”,你可以加点柠檬汁(鱼的最佳搭档),或者加点油脂或奶油,比如法式酸奶油甚至蛋黄酱。如果你喜欢金枪鱼沙拉,你就会喜欢蛋黄酱配鱼。

Original English

Christine: >> Okay, so if you're a beginner and you're not really sure if you're really into the whole tinned fish thing, you should probably start out with something that's mild like a tuna or a salmon or a trout. And then if you think you know that you like this, then you can dive into the deep end and go for something more experienced like a mackerel is more oily, might be fishier, might be a little bit more pungent or sardine. And then if you want to kind of make a little meal out of it, make a spread for a party or just for yourself when you're dressing up girl dinner at night, you can add an acid like lemon always goes great with fish or a fat or a cream like creme fresh or mayonnaise even, which I don't. I can't. But if you want to, go ahead. If you like tuna salad, you will like mayonnaise with fish.

Margarite: 我当然喜欢。别忘了加点辣味,辣酱。

Original English

Margarite: >> I sure love it. And don't forget the heat, the hot sauce.

Kyra: 辣酱。永远都要辣酱。听起来太棒了。休息之后,我们要请 Margarite 讲讲她个人在指南中的几个心头好,以及你在超市海鲜柜台选购时,标签上应该看些什么。接着还有一轮快速闪电问答,关于她对罐头鱼的一些独特见解。我们马上回来。

Original English

Kyra: >> The hot sauce. >> Always the hot sauce. That sounds great. >> After the break, we're going to talk to Margarite about a few of her personal favorite picks from the guide and what to look for on a label when you're browsing the canned seafood aisle and a quick lightning round about some of her hottest tinned fish takes. Be right back.

Christine: 欢迎回来,Margarite。在休息之前,你告诉了我们你如何测试罐头鱼,我们也聊了聊如何食用。但现在我们想聊聊具体的推荐,因为你在指南里有 24 条推荐。我很好奇你能不能为我们挑出你心目中的前四名。这份指南中你的最爱是什么?

Original English

Christine: Welcome back, Margaret. Before the break, you told us how you test tinfish and we talked a little bit about how to serve these things, but now we want to talk about some of the recommendations because you have 24 recommendations in this guide. So, I am curious if you could just maybe pick the top four for you. What are your favorites from this guide?

Margarite: 这太难了,因为我一旦开始列举,可能最后会把 24 个都说一遍。我一直以来的最爱之一是这个——来自一家葡萄牙公司 ABC Plus,他们做这种咖喱酱汁鳟鱼(trout in curry sauce)。鳟鱼真的很好,吃起来很新鲜。但那个咖喱酱是那种浓稠的奶油酱。咖喱味非常鲜活,就像香料都非常新鲜亮眼。它太好吃了,你可以轻而易举吃掉一整罐。我会把它盖在米饭上当午餐。

Original English

Margarite: It's so hard because I could start listing and then just eventually list like all all 24 of them. One of my all-time favorites is this one. Um it's from a company ABC Plus, which is Portuguese, and they make this trout and curry sauce. >> The trout is really nice. It tastes really fresh. It's just like a beautiful trout. But then the curry sauce is like this thick creamy sauce. And the curry flavor is like so vibrant and fresh. Like it's a little bit spicy. Like all the spices taste really fresh and bright. It is so good. You could easily just eat the whole can. I would put it over rice for lunch.

Kyra: 挑战在于它非常贵。它是其中比较贵的。告诉我们吧,多少钱?

Original English

Kyra: >> The challenge is that it's a very expens It's one of the more expensive. Someone give it to us. How much is it?

Margarite: 到底有多贵……我得查一下。我想大概是 18 美元。

Original English

Margarite: >> How expensive is I would have to look up exactly. I think it's like $18.

Kyra: 差不多在 20 美元左右。

Original English

Kyra: >> It's like something like in the $20 range.

Margarite: 是的。

Original English

Margarite: >> Yeah.

Kyra: 天呐。

Original English

Kyra: >> Dang.

Margarite: 所以它不是那种你会说“这午餐太完美了,我每天带去办公室”的东西。

Original English

Margarite: >> So, it's not You want to be like, "This is like a perfect lunch. I'll just tote it to the office and like Sure." But

Kyra: 毕竟它只是一小块鱼。

Original English

Kyra: >> it's like a little piece of fish.

Christine: 那么,你对这种鱼的体验是怎样的?你为什么会给自己买它?

Original English

Christine: >> So, what what's your what's your experience with this fish? Why do you why would you buy it for yourself?

Margarite: 作为给自己的奖励,我会把一整罐当午饭吃掉。但在派对上,我觉得它也是一个很好的入门级选择,因为鳟鱼温和新鲜,而且咖喱味加分很多。如果你喜欢咖喱,即使你不是个爱吃鱼的人,这也会非常美味。所以它很适合派对,算是一种“大众情人”。

另一个最爱,同样也是大众情人,是 Fishwife烟熏辣椒鲭鱼(smoked mackerel with chili flakes)。噢,我们测试了很多 Fishwife 的产品。而这一款,我认为是大家公认的最爱。它是整个测试中公认的佼佼者之一。鲭鱼的烟熏味非常重。你打开罐头,它是那种漂亮的、深棕色的焦糖色。烟熏味非常好,平衡且带有木质香。我们发现有些鱼的烟熏味会有种刺鼻或人工化学感。而这一款完全不是,烟熏味很足,还有一点辣。他们还加了一种包含大蒜、糖和橄榄油的酱汁。所以糖和大蒜增加了一些额外的风味。

Original English

Margarite: >> As a treat for myself for to eat the whole thing for lunch. >> Okay. But yeah, like at a party, I think it's also like it is a a good sort of entry level one because the trout is mild and fresh and also because the curry flavor does so much. You know, if you like curry, even if you're not a big fish person, like this would be really delicious. So, it's good for a party. It's kind of a crowd-pleaser. >> Another favorite that is also a crowd-pleaser is the smoked mackerel with chili flakes from Fish Wife. Ooh, we tested a lot of Fishwife's fish. And this was, I think, sort of far and away the consensus favorite. Um, and really like one of the sort of consensus favorites of the whole tasting. The smoke on the mackerel, it's pretty heavily smoked. Like you you open the can and it's this beautiful kind of like dark burnished brown color. The smoke flavor is really nice. It's balanced and woody. What we found with some of these fish is that the smoke flavor can taste a little kind of acurid or artificial in some of them. And this was not the case at all, but it's very smoky and then has a little bit of spice. They also kind of do it in this sauce that's garlic, sugar, olive oil. So like the sugar and the garlic kind of add a little extra they really round out the flavor.

Kyra: 所以那是另一个非常非常美味的选择。可以直接吃,可以盖在米饭上,或者抹在饼干上。太棒了。

Original English

Kyra: >> So that's another one that's just like really really delicious. Could eat it on its own, could eat it over rice, on a cracker. like it's great.

Margarite: 让我看看。天呐,只挑四个太难了。

Original English

Margarite: Let's see. Oh my gosh, this is so hard to do just for.

Christine: 你已经完成一半了。

Original English

Christine: >> You're halfway there.

Margarite: 嗯,我得说出来:鳕鱼肝

Original English

Margarite: >> Um, you know, I'm going to say it. The cod liver like

Christine: 很有道理,因为你的味觉非常敏锐。

Original English

Christine: >> Okay, that makes sense though cuz you have a very refined palette. So,

Margarite: 它真的很不一样,很特别。我们喜欢的一款来自 Minnow 品牌,这是一家新公司,是美国的,总部就在布鲁克林。实际上是一个餐厅集团制作的。但他们是从别处采购鱼的。我想他们的鳕鱼肝来自冰岛。就像我说的,味道像鳀鱼和黄油,那是我最喜欢的组合。对我来说就是那个味道。

Original English

Margarite: >> um, it's just really it's different and it's really special. The one that we liked is from this brand Minnow, which is they're one of these newer companies. It's American. They're actually based in Brooklyn. It's like a restaurant group actually that makes them, >> but they're sourcing their fish from elsewhere. So, I think their cod liver is from I'm like actually looking at the box. It's from Iceland and it's just the cod, but it's really Yeah. anchovies and butter, which is like a thing that I love. That's what it tastes like to me.

Kyra: 听起来不错。鳕鱼肝多少钱?

Original English

Kyra: >> Sounds great. >> How expensive is the cod liver?

Margarite: 10 美元。那还不算太糟。真的不坏。

Original English

Margarite: >> It's $10. That is not that bad. That's not that bad.

Kyra: 当我们在聊这些动辄超过 30 美元的精致罐头时,也许我们的视角已经偏了,但 10 美元听起来真的不贵。

Original English

Kyra: >> When we're talking about all of these very fancy cans, maybe our our view is skewed now since we know that they go up past 30, but $10 doesn't seem so bad.

Margarite: 是的,而且这种东西一点点就能吃很久。虽然我可能吃得下一整罐,但不确定我会不会真的那么干,因为它非常浓郁、丰腴。所以你可以吃很久。让我想想,第四个是什么?噢,我得提一下——我在这里有点偏向美国品牌了,虽然我们测试了很多地方的,也有很多酷的东西——但 Wild Fish Cannery,他们现在做很多产品,他们的**烟熏三文鱼(smoked salmon)**简直美得不可思议,而且非常好吃。熏制得非常漂亮。打开它,顶部是那种亮晶晶的棕色。风味和质地都非常像黄油,肉质扎实。我们尝试过的一些烟熏鱼罐头有点干,或者有些三文鱼可能有点软烂,或者水太多。而这一款就是……我不知道该怎么形容,肉质非常致密、像黄油一样鲜嫩。烟熏味非常真实,闻起来就像置身于森林中。我会把这四款都摆上桌。也许我真的会,下次聚会把它们全试一遍,包括鳕鱼肝。

Original English

Margarite: >> Yeah. And it's it's the kind of thing where a little goes a long way. Like that one I probably could eat the whole can. I don't know that I would eat. It's like it's a very rich thing. Um so you you'd get a lot of mileage out of it. Let's see. What is my number four? Oh, I got to say, and I'm really kind of like leaning on the American brands here, which we tasted so many and there are so many like cool and interesting things, but Wild Fish Canery, they make a bunch of stuff now, but they make smoked salmon and it is just so incredibly beautiful and good. They're beautifully smoked. Again, you can open it up and it's like this just this beautiful kind of glossy brown color on top. The flavor and the texture is just really buttery and meaty. You know, I think some of the tinned smoked fish we tried was kind of dry or like some of the salmon was maybe a little mushier or or like you kind of like had more water in it. This is just like I don't know. It's like just like dense and buttery and meaty in a really amazing way. And the smoke flavor is like really just real like it tastes like being in the woods or something. I would put all four of those on the table. And maybe I will. Maybe I will try those all together,

Christine: 我打算这么干。是的,听起来很好吃。

Original English

Christine: >> including the cod liver. >> I'm gonna do it. Yeah, it sounds delicious.

选购指南:油浸、水浸与可持续认证

Kyra: 如果有人看了我们的指南,发现本地买不到这些东西,也不想在网上买,只想去本地商店随便买点。如果你只是走在超市货架前,标签上有什么能说明质量的指标吗?听起来你必须经过大量的试错才能找到好东西。

Original English

Kyra: >> That sound good. >> If someone is they're looking at our guide, they're like, I don't have any of these things available locally. I don't want to buy anything online. I just want to go to my local store and buy something. >> If you're just walking down a grocery aisle, is there anything on the label that indicates quality? It sounds like you had to just sort of do a lot of trial and error to find the things that you thought were good.

Christine: 对于在大众市场选购的人,有什么方法可以“受教育”吗?比如看产地?标签上有什么特定的东西是他们应该寻找的吗?

Original English

Christine: >> Can someone out in the wild be educated in terms of how they're they're shopping? Like are you looking for country of origin? Are there certain things on the label that they should be looking for?

Margarite: 说实话,产地很难作为标准。我不觉得它能说明太多。有很多国家都有罐装鱼的传统,而且都能做得很好。我为指南测试的罐头产地遍布全球,从中国到挪威再到阿拉斯加都有。此外还有可持续发展认证,如果你在意这一点,可以寻找这些标志。有 MSC(海洋管理委员会),还有 ASC(水产养殖管理委员会,相当于针对养殖鱼类的认证)。但我们在沙丁鱼测试中发现,这些认证与实际的风味质量完全没有关联。这更多关乎你对所吃食物的伦理标准,而不是罐头里的质量。

Original English

Margarite: >> Yeah, the country of origin thing is really tough. I I don't think it really tells you a ton. I mean, there's so many countries with traditions of canning fish and they can all do it well that it doesn't necessarily tell you much, you know, and the ones I tested for this guide are from everywhere from China to Norway to Alaska. There are also sustainability certifications um that you can look for and if you care about that, that's something you might want to look out for. There's the MSC, which is the Marine Stewardship Council, and then there's the ASC, which is the Aquaculture Steward. It's the equivalent for farmed fish. What we found in the sardine testing was that those really didn't correlate at all to like actual flavor quality,

Kyra: 没错。

Original English

Kyra: >> right?

Margarite: 实际上,唯一重要的一点是:油浸(oil)还是水浸(water)

Original English

Margarite: It's more about your sort of ethics around what you're eating versus the the quality of what's in the can. >> Yeah. I think the one thing actually is oil versus water. Is it packed in oil or is it packed in water?

Kyra: 这直接引到了我的下一个问题。当我买普通的金枪鱼罐头时,我总是在看这些标签。我在想,我需要关心这个吗?会有区别吗?

Original English

Kyra: >> Yeah, that that leads directly into my next question. I'm always looking at those labels when I'm just buying my regular canned tuna. I'm like, do I have to care about this? Does it make a difference?

Margarite: 如果你问我或者问专家,油浸更好。因为油能更好地保持鱼的形状和质地。我认为它也能更好地保留风味和口感。有脂肪总比没脂肪好。就像黄油涂吐司更好吃一样,鱼配油也会让它更丰润、更嫩滑。

回到选购罐头鱼的问题,我们的指南中有所有推荐的链接。假设你附近的超市没有这些精致的罐头,如果你想尝试,有没有在线渠道?有哪些是你推荐的?这样大家可以从同一个零售商那里订购多件,不用付多份运费。

有的。其中很大的一家是 Rainbow Tomatoes Garden。他们拥有全球最全的罐头鱼选择。东西非常多,而且他们在描述鱼的特色方面做得很好。另一个很好的来源是 Caputo's,它在犹他州有零售店,是一家美食超市,但他们也有很大的在线商店。他们实际上是很多欧洲品牌的进口商。所以他们种类极广,而且在描述“这家公司是怎么回事”、“尝起来什么样”、“可以怎么搭配”方面做得非常棒。

还有一个我喜欢的,规模较小但也是个好选择,如果你想尝试订阅服务——现在市面上是有订阅服务的,你可以每月收到一个装有几款不同罐头鱼的盒子。这是一种探索新东西的好方法。我尝试过的一家叫 Latt,是一家很小的公司。他们主要做西欧的鱼。我想创始人是西班牙人。我喜欢他们的一点是,虽然选择不多,但这是因为经过了精心挑选。我采访过其中一位创始人,他说他们会亲自品尝每一样东西,然后决定要代理什么。通常每个品牌他们只选几样。所以如果你想尝试订阅,这很不错。

Original English

Margarite: >> If you were to ask me or if you were to ask experts, oil is better because because it better preserves the shape and texture of the fish. Um, it also I think better preserves the flavor and the mouth feel. Fat is generally better than not fat. >> So for all of the reasons that like toast is better with butter, like >> it's just >> fish is better with oil, like it just makes it a little more unuous, a little more tender. >> So back to my question around shopping for for tinned fish, we've got links in our guide to all of the recommendations. Let's say you don't you don't have a grocery store that has a lot of these tinned fishes. you want to try them out. Are there online sources? What are some of those that you would recommend people go to if they want to kind of peruse and also maybe capture ordering a number of things from the same retailer so you're not paying for shipping from a bunch of different places? Yes. One of the big ones is Rainbow Tomatoes Garden. They carry the widest selection of tin fish of any retailer in the world. They just have a ton of stuff. They do a good job too of kind of describing what the fish are like and all that stuff. So, that's a good source. Another good source is Caputo, which is it actually does have retail stores in Utah. It's like a gourmet grocery, but they have a big online store and they are actually the importer for a lot of mostly European brands. So they carry a huge range and they also do a very good job of describing like what is the deal with this company and like what what does this taste like and you know what could you pair it with that kind of thing. Another one that I like that it's like a smaller retailer and they have a smaller selection but could be a good option if you want to try like a subscription which there are subscriptions out there where you can get a box of a few different tinfish once a month

趣味问答:年份沙丁鱼与陈年风味

Christine: Margarite,我们要进入闪电问答环节了。我们要问你一系列关于你会如何提供罐头鱼的问题。特别是针对我们指南中的推荐,我们希望你能快速回答。不要想太多。我先开始。对于一个对罐头鱼感到紧张的人,最适合新手的罐头是什么?

Original English

Christine: Margarite, we want to get a lightning round in here. We're going to ask you a series of questions about the type of tinned fish you would serve. particularly the recommendation from our guide and we want you to answer lickety split real quick. Don't don't overthink it. So I will start. What's the best beginner friendly tin for someone who's nervous about tinned fish?

Margarite: 我觉得实际上是 Fishwife 的烟熏鲭鱼,不过 Minnow 做的烟熏鳟鱼也非常好。我觉得它吃起来其实有点像培根。

Original English

Margarite: I think actually the fish wife smoked mackerel but also minnow makes a smoked trout that is really lovely. I think it actually kind of tastes like bacon.

Kyra: 如果今年某人只买一罐昂贵的罐头,应该是哪一个?

Original English

Kyra: >> Okay. If someone only buys one fancy tin this year, which one should it be?

Margarite: Ramon Peña 是一个西班牙品牌。我们尝试过他们的每一款产品都非常惊艳且美味。它绝对更高级,非常老派。选他们的任何一款都可以。

Original English

Margarite: Um, Ramon Pña is a Spanish brand. Everything we have tried from them is really incredible and delicious. It's definitely fancier. It's like old school. Anything from them.

Christine: 最被低估的罐头鱼种类是什么?

Original English

Christine: What's the most underrated type of tinned fish?

Margarite: 鳕鱼肝。

Original English

Margarite: Cod liver.

Christine: 那最名过其实的呢?

Original English

Christine: >> What about the most overrated?

Margarite: 我喜欢鱼腥味重的。所以我可能会觉得金枪鱼名过其实。虽然市面上也有很好的金枪鱼,但我更想要油脂丰富的鱼。

Original English

Margarite: >> I like the fishier flavors. So, I I think like, you know, tuna. There's some really lovely tuna out there, but I want more oily fish.

Kyra: 你会吃过期的罐头鱼吗?

Original English

Kyra: Would you eat tinned fish that's past its expiration date?

Margarite: 会。

Original English

Margarite: >> Yes.

Kyra: 过期多久还能吃?

Original English

Kyra: >> How long after the expiration date?

Margarite: 这取决于罐头和鱼的种类,但我告诉你这个:年份罐头鱼(Vintage tinned fish)。你可以买到带有年份的沙丁鱼,标签上印着它们在哪一年封装的。

Original English

Margarite: >> It might depend on the can and the fish, but I will tell you this. >> Vintage tinned tinned fish. >> You can you can buy sardines that have a vintage that have the year that they were

Kyra: 就像红酒一样。

Original English

Kyra: >> like a wine.

Margarite: 没错。而且有人收藏它们。

Original English

Margarite: >> Yes, exactly. And people collect them.

Kyra: 但他们会吃吗?

Original English

Kyra: But do they eat them?

Margarite: 他们会吃。

Original English

Margarite: >> And they eat them.

Kyra: 什么?

Original English

Kyra: >> What?

Margarite: 而且有一种观点认为,尤其是沙丁鱼和金枪鱼,油浸罐头会随时间推移而变得更好吃

Original English

Margarite: >> And there is a school of thought that sardines, I think it's especially sardines and tuna, canned and oil get better with age.

Kyra: 呃,我深表怀疑。

Original English

Kyra: >> Huh. I'm so skeptical.

Margarite: 风味会演变,质地也会演变,骨头会彻底消融。这是真实存在的。你可以在网上买到一系列不同年份的沙丁鱼,比如 2020 年的、2018 年的。

Original English

Margarite: >> Flavor develops, the texture develops, the bones kind of melt away. It's a thing. And you can go online and you can buy like a collection of like vintages of different sard, you know, sardines from 2020, sardines from that >> 2018.

Kyra: 但如果是 1996 年或者 1940 年的沙丁鱼呢?你能追溯到多远以前?

Original English

Kyra: But are we like are we okay if it's like sardines from 1996 or from 1940? Like how far back can you go?

Margarite: 好问题。我也许需要多做点研究,看看打开一罐这么久以前的罐头会怎样。

好了,最后一个问题。你最近买的、非常喜欢的最后一样东西是什么?

这是一次非常近期的购买,也是一次大宗购买——我刚买了一辆载重电动自行车(cargo ebike)。啊,我得说明一下,我在布鲁克林出行主要靠骑车。我每天接送孩子去任何地方都靠它。但我最近搬家了,新家离学校更远,而且在山脚下。我儿子四岁半了,而我已经怀孕六个月了。所以我不想每天再蹬车带他爬坡了。然后我们发现了一辆二手的 Rad Runner,状况非常好,只要 500 美元。

Original English

Margarite: >> A good question. I have to do I have to do a little more research there into how far back when you open it up. >> All right, we're down to our final question. What's the last thing you bought that you've really loved? >> Okay, this is a very recent purchase and this was a big purchase, but I just bought a cargo ebike. Ah, I so I should back up and say I really rely on biking around Brooklyn. It's how I get my kid everywhere. But I recently moved and where I moved is both farther away from school and at the bottom of a very big hill. and my son is four and a half and I am 6 months pregnant. So, I don't really want to bike him up the hill every day anymore. And then we found this secondhand Rad Runner that's in very good condition for $500.

Kyra: 噢,不错。

Original English

Kyra: >> Oh, nice.

Christine: 那真是个好价钱。

Original English

Christine: >> That's a great price.

Margarite: 嗯。那车原价大概要 1500 美元。

Original English

Margarite: >> Mhm. It's like a $1,500 bike.

Kyra: 哇。好吧,Margarite,跟你聊罐头鱼真是太愉快了。也许我们很快就有机会跟你一起品尝一些。

Original English

Kyra: >> Yeah. Wow. >> Well, Margarite, it was so lovely to talk tinfish with you and um maybe we'll get to taste some with you sometime soon.

Margarite: 我很乐意。

Original English

Margarite: Yeah, I would love that.

Christine: 谢谢。

Original English

Christine: >> Thank you.

Kyra: 谢谢你的参与。

Original English

Kyra: >> Thanks. Thanks for having me.

Christine: 好了,罐头鱼。Kyra,你怎么看?你被安利了吗?

Original English

Christine: >> All right. Tinned fish. Kyra, what are you thinking? What are you Are you sold?

Kyra: 我真的被安利了。我以前也喜欢罐头鱼,但不会专门去买。可能在店里路过,看着不错才会买。嗯,我得说那个 Fishwife 的鲭鱼看起来真的很棒。价格似乎也在我的承受范围内,最重要的是,我觉得它很容易买到,因为我在本地超市里肯定见过它。

Original English

Kyra: >> I'm really sold on this fish. I'm like I like tinned fish, but I'm not really going to go out and buy it specifically. Like if I pass it in the store and it looks good, maybe. Um I do have to say that fish wife the mackerel does look good. looks affordable for my price range and most importantly for me it looks accessible because I've definitely seen it at my local grocery store.

Christine: 是的,我想它现在变得越来越普及了。嗯,我现在感觉挺激动的,受启发想在下一次聚会上做一个冷拼盘。我会考虑所有的风味,可能会先从 Margarite 提到的那些更容易接受的选项开始,避开像鲭鱼和沙丁鱼这样油脂重的。但我很期待去尝试。如果听众对我们今天谈到的任何推荐有疑问,我们在节目介绍中列出了所有这些链接,还会有通往我们罐头鱼指南的链接。本周节目就到这里。非常感谢收听。

Original English

Christine: >> Yeah, I think it's becoming more and more available. Um, I am feeling pretty pumped and inspired to do some kind of appetizer fish board at my next gathering. And so I'm going to think about all the flavors and I'll probably focus on some of the more approachable options that Margarite talked about and steer clear of the oilier like mackerel and sardines to start with just to as a nice entry point. But I'm I'm excited to try. If listeners have any questions about any of the recommendations we talked about today, we have all of those recommendations in our show notes and you can also we'll have a link to our tinned fish guide. That's it for us this week. Thanks so much for listening.

Kyra: 再见。

Original English

Kyra: >> Bye

Christine: 再见。

Original English

Christine: >> bye.

Kyra: 是啊,在饼干上涂蛋黄酱。那是我们的分界线。

Original English

Kyra: >> Yeah, mayonnaise on a cracker. That's our dividing line.

Christine: 是的,关于蛋黄酱我们争论过太多次了。我就觉得,我不想在能尝出味道的地方吃它。我的天呐。

Original English

Christine: >> Yeah, we've had so many debates about mayonnaise. I'm like, I don't want to eat it where I can taste it. Oh my gosh.

📌 文中提及的人物和组织

关键字: tinned-fish culinary-trends pantry-essentials lifestyle gourmet-food