探寻非洲美食:一位厨师的文化之旅 TED 2026-01-23

美食的边界与非洲料理的复兴

食物拥有超越国界的魔力,它能将人们紧密相连。我坚信,新一代的非洲厨师们正积极致力于推广我们大陆丰富而令人惊叹的食物遗产。我叫 Dieuveil Malonga,是一名厨师。我的职业生涯曾遍布巴黎、德国、美国、日本和泰国等地的多家餐厅,在世界各地的高端餐饮环境中积累了宝贵的经验。在这些经历中,我不仅学会了精湛的烹饪技巧,也结识了许多杰出的人。然而,我逐渐意识到,我对“泛非美食”(Pan-African cuisine)的了解尚显不足,这份好奇心驱使我主动踏上回非洲大陆的旅程,渴望深入学习。

我将这次学习视为重返“祖母的学校”,这段旅程持续了两年,我穿梭于非洲大陆。在此期间,我学习的不仅仅是食物,更是多元的文化和非洲大陆的历史。我深入向祖母们请教,她们的经验是关于“非洲美食”最真实的源泉。我很快明白,所谓“非洲美食”并非一个单一的概念,而是由众多国家各自独特的烹饪传统组成。非洲是一个拥有54个独立国家的大陆,我探访了其中的48个。

我的探索始于喀麦隆,这段经历对我而言如同婴儿初次体验世界般新奇而震撼。我学到的第一道国民菜肴是 Ndolé。人们形容它是“为国王准备的食谱”,因为它耗时极长,通常需要六到七个小时的精心烹制,并包含大量的食材。在喀麦隆的一个村庄,我与一位祖母一起为朋友准备 Ndolé,我们花了一整天的时间,最终品尝到的滋味确实令人惊叹。很难量化我学到了多少食谱,但我可以说,我学到了无数种。在尼日利亚,仅部落就有200多个,每个部落都有自己独特的菜肴,这让我深感非洲大陆的食谱数量之多,可能达到数百万甚至数十亿种。在塞内加尔,Yassa 是一种炖菜,主要以洋葱为核心风味。卢旺达则以绿香蕉(Igisafuliya)为特色,常与鸡肉一起炖煮。刚果(DRC)的 Fumbwa 是由生长在森林中的一种名为 Yasso 的叶子制成的。

对我而言,香料(Spice)是生命的灵魂。Penja 辣椒 是我心中世界上最好的辣椒之一,它独特之处在于其自带的甜美感,并带有类似香茅(lemongrass)的风味,这种独特之处只有亲自品尝才能真正理解。Penja 辣椒仅在 Penja 地区生长。我喜欢在收获季节去拜访 Penja 的农人,在那里,人们常在收获芒果的同时载歌载舞。我乐于加入他们,在农场帮忙,并享受新鲜芒果的美味。在非洲的许多国家,人们庆祝的不仅仅是食物本身,更是围绕食物形成的文化和生活方式。当你品尝一道菜时,你不仅能了解到种植这些食材的人们,更能洞悉其背后的故事。这种体验与我在德国一家顶级餐厅工作时的经历截然不同。

当时,我感受不到与食材的深层连接。你可以拿到一颗胡萝卜,它来自市场,但你不知道它背后的故事。这便是巨大的差异。第一次在喀麦隆品尝到胡萝卜时,它完全不同——香甜、风味浓郁,质地也截然不同。那是一根非常小的胡萝卜,与我们在欧洲常用的那种大胡萝卜截然不同。我感到非常惊喜,因为它让我与食材、与当地人民以及这片土地产生了真实的连接。

旅行之后,我萌生了一个宏大的抱负:将我在不同国家所学到的知识融汇于一处,并与世界分享。由此,“烹饪创新村”(Culinary Innovation Village)应运而生,这是由我和我的团队共同创建的一个美食教育基地。我们设有一个培训中心,旨在培养未来的“明日之星”厨师。学院的学生来自非洲各地,目前已有七个国籍。他们带来了新的菜肴,新的耕作方式,与我之间形成了巨大的知识交流。旅行中,我收集了来自不同国家的许多种子,我们拥有超过100个品种的水果和蔬菜。我们教授学生如何耕作,并运营着一家名为“Meza Malonga”的餐厅,我们在此提供独特的餐饮体验。我热衷于推广非洲的食材和香料,更侧重于讲述我们人民和产品的故事。对我而言,食物是分享与教育的载体。

我未来的愿景是,在非洲大陆的各个地区复制建设更多类似“烹饪创新村”的机构。如今,全球变化日新月异,人们热衷于为美食旅行,而非洲菜肴正扮演着越来越重要的角色。我们真心希望,未来人们谈论非洲美食时,就像谈论意大利美食一样自然;人们提及尼日利亚菜、刚果菜、卢旺达菜或南非菜时,就像谈论美国菜一样普遍。

Original English

The good thing with food, like, food brings people together. Food doesn't have borders. I believe the new generation really are pushing now to promote the amazing food heritage we have in the continent. My name is Dieuveil Malonga and I'm a chef. I've worked in many restaurants, from Paris, from Germany, US, Japan, Thailand. My experience in fine-dining restaurants around the world was amazing. I've learned amazing technique, I've met amazing people. Then I realized myself, that I wanted to know more about Pan-African cuisine. And I took the initiative to go back to the continent. I wanted to learn. I wanted to go back to school, to the grandmother school. That took two years just traveling in Africa. I've learned about food, about culture, and also about the continent, the history. And go to learn [from] grandmothers about "African cuisine." First, it's not just African cuisine, it's country's cuisine. Africa is a continent, like, we have 54 countries. I visited more than 48 countries. I started with Cameroon. This was amazing. I was like a baby who was learning new things. The first thing I've learned was the national dish, call it ndolé. They call it like, a recipe for king. If someone cooks ndolé for you, it looks like the person loves you because ndolé takes a lot of time. It's, let's say, seven or six hours, and it's a lot of ingredients. When I went to the village, we did it together with a grandmother for my friend, and we spent all day. But ... The taste was amazing. It's, like, difficult to say how many recipes I've learned, but I've learned many recipes, a lot. In Nigeria, we have more than 200 tribes. And every tribe has a different dish. So I can describe more than a million, and billion recipes in the continent. In Senegal, yassa is a stew. But the main product they use is onions. In Rwanda, green banana, they call it igisafuliya. Sometimes they mix it with chicken, it's like a stew. In Congo, DRC, fumbwa is made by yasso, it's leaves that [are found] more in the forest. Spice is very important for me. Spice is life. Penja pepper is one of the best peppers, for me, in the world. The penja have something, sweetness. And also, it's close to lemongrass. You must taste it, really, to understand. Penja pepper grows only in Penja region. I like to go visit the harvest of Penja people, because most of the time the people are singing and it's the same time of mango and mango life. And personally, when I'm there, I like to go to help the people in the farm and also eat mango. In different countries in Africa, people celebrate food. People don't eat, but we celebrate food. It's part of our life. When you taste the dish, firstly, you know the people who are growing the product, you know the story behind. I think it's very different. For me, it was like, I was tasting, but it was also an experience. When I was in Germany, I was working in like, one of the best restaurant in the world. I didn't get the connection with the product because you can have a carrot, but it's come from the market. You don't know the story behind. That was the big difference. My first time that I tasted a carrot when I was in Cameroon, it was different. Number one, like, it was sweet and flavorful and the texture was very different. And it was a very small carrot, it was not like the big carrot that we usually use in Europe. And I was very surprised, I was connected with the product, with the people and with the region. After traveling, my ambition was like, I want to share what I've learned in different countries in one place. Culinary Innovation Village is a food campus that we have created with my team. We have a training center, we train a next generation of, let's say, the big chef of tomorrow. The students come from different countries in Africa. For now we have seven nationalities. And they bring another new dish. They bring another new way of farming. It's a huge exchange between me and the students. When I travel, I bring many seeds from different countries. We have more than 100 varieties of fruit and vegetables. We teach our students how to farm, and also we have a restaurant, Meza Malonga, where we do, most of the time, food experience. I like to promote the African ingredients and spices. I focus more on the story of our people and the product. For me, food is sharing and education. My vision in the future is, we have many places like this in many regions in Africa. Many things are happening globally. People are traveling now for food and the African cuisine is playing a big role. We want really in the future that people can talk about African food, like they talk about Italian food, and people can talk about Nigerian food and Congolese, Rwandese and South African food, like also people talk about American food. [TED Fellows]

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关键字: pan-african-cuisine culinary-heritage cultural-exchange food-tradition african-food