派底湿软的困扰与烘焙大师的登场
你们有没有吃过那种派,尤其是中间部分的派底,软塌塌的,还没烤熟?那就是湿软派底(soggy bottom: 派底因馅料水分过多或烘烤不足而变得潮湿、不熟)。
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I mean, have you ever had a piece of pie and like the bottom crust, especially towards the middle, is like floppy and raw? That's a soggy bottom.
我是克里斯汀·塞拉·克拉塞特。我是凯拉·布莱克威尔。我是罗西·加伦。您正在收听的是《线材切割秀》。
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I'm Christine Sierra Classette. I'm Kyra Blackwell. I'm Rosie Garren. And you're listening to the Wire Cutter Show.
Kyra: 大家好。
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>> Hey there.
Rosie: 嘿,感恩节快到了,这意味着我们今天请来了我最喜欢的美食嘉宾之一,莱斯利·斯托克顿。
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>> Hey, Thanksgiving is upon us, which means one of my favorite food guests is our guest today, Leslie Stockton.
Christine: 啊,我们《线材切割》节目的美食明星。她曾来节目中谈论黄油,去年还在我们的感恩节特辑中亮相,当时她介绍了烹饪火鸡和配菜时需要考虑的各种基本知识。我们当时没能深入探讨她可能最喜欢的东西——我不想夸大地说“在这个世界上”,但在美食界,那就是派。
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>> Ah, our wire cutter food star. She has been on the show covering butter and she starred in our Thanksgiving episode last year where she covered all sorts of kind of basics that you might want to think about for cooking the bird and the sides. We didn't actually really get to dig into the thing she maybe loves the most. I don't I don't want to overstate it and say in this world, but in the food world, which is pies.
Kyra: 哦,她超爱派。她做派很棒。
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>> Oh, she loves a pie. She does pie.
Christine: 她很喜欢派。
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>> She loves a pie.
Rosie: 是的。她为《线材切割》写过几篇关于派的文章。其中一篇介绍了她最喜欢使用的工具。她还测试了我们很多派的烘焙工具,包括派盘、擀面杖等所有好东西。
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>> Yeah. She has written a couple pieces for Wire Cutter around pies. She has a piece up that covers her favorite tools to use. And she's also tested a lot of our pie gear, including pie plates and our rolling pin picks and all of that good stuff.
Kyra: 而且她也做了很多派。她做派已经几十年了。
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>> And she's also made a lot of pies. Like for decades, she's been making pies.
Christine: 你们在《玛莎·斯图尔特生活》一起工作过。
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>> You guys worked together at Martha Stewart.
Leslie: 是的,我们一起做过《玛莎·斯图尔特生活》的派。
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>> We did. Martha Stewart pies.
Christine: 是啊。
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>> Yeah.
Rosie: 所以,我今天非常期待和她聊聊,了解她制作美味派的最佳技巧、窍门和秘密,为节日增添光彩。好了,我们先休息一下,回来后我们将和莱斯利聊聊本季派烘焙的最佳工具和技术秘诀。马上回来。
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So, I'm really excited to chat with her today about her best tips and tricks and secrets to making a bomb pie for the holidays. Well, we're going to take a quick break and when we're back, we'll talk with Leslie about all of her best tips for gear and technique for this pie baking season. Be right back.
欢迎回来。今天我们请到了莱斯利·斯托克顿来到演播室,她是一位资深厨房用品作家,为《线材切割》撰写用品指南已经十多年了。莱斯利曾是《玛莎·斯图尔特生活》的美食编辑,她的部分工作就是专门开发感恩节食谱,到现在她可能已经烤了几百个派了。
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Welcome back. We've got Leslie Stockton in the studio with us today and she is a senior kitchen gear writer who's been writing gear guides for Wire Cutter for over a decade. Leslie formerly worked as a food editor at Martha Stewart where part of her job was literally just developing Thanksgiving recipes and she's baked probably hundreds of pies by now.
Rosie: 莱斯利,我们很高兴你能来这里和我们聊聊美食和工具。欢迎回来。
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>> Leslie, we love having you here to talk about food and gear. Welcome back.
Leslie: 谢谢。我也喜欢聊美食和工具。你来对地方了。莱斯利,去年秋天你来和我们聊了感恩节烹饪火鸡和配菜的工具,但我知道你更喜欢派而不是火鸡。事实上,你去年感恩节来我家时,就带了一个派,一个非常美味的派。
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>> Thank you. I also love talking about food and gear. Well, you're in the right place. Uh Leslie, you joined us last fall to talk about Thanksgiving gear related to cooking the bird and the sides, but I know that you are way more of a pie person than a bird person. In fact, you came to my house last year for Thanksgiving and you brought a pie, a delicious, delicious pie.
Kyra: 等等,什么派?我们需要细节。
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>> Wait, what kind of pie? We need details.
Leslie: 你知道吗?我当时真的在努力回想。是巧克力派吗?
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>> You know what? I was like really trying to remember. Was it a chocolate one?
Christine: 天哪,它太美味了。我忘了是什么派,但我记得里面有巧克力,因为我特意告诉过你我不喜欢南瓜派。
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>> Goodness, it was delicious. believe I forgot what I think it had chocolate in it because I told you specifically I don't like pumpkin.
Leslie: 嗯,对,对。
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>> Um, right. Right.
Kyra: 但我可以证明你是一位非常非常棒的派烘焙师,我想知道——我们去年好像开过这个玩笑,但你看起来比一百岁年轻多了。你是怎么可能烤了几百个派的?我小时候就和奶奶一起烤派,我有点像厨房里的“小麻烦”,因为我总是想在里面看她在做什么。她开始教我做她的派和派皮,然后我就……我每年夏天都和她在一起,就是那时我开始做派的。
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>> But I can attest that you are a very, very good pie baker and I need to know I think we made this joke last year, but you look much younger than 100 years old. Um, how have you possibly been able to bake hundreds of pies? I started baking pies with my grandmother when I was a kid and I was a bit of a kitchen pest because I always wanted to be in there seeing what she was doing. She started teaching me how to make her pie and her pie crust and then it was I mean I spent summers with her and so that's when I started making pies.
Christine: 我喜欢这个。所以你和奶奶一起烘焙,然后大概你也专业地烘焙了很多派。
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>> I love that. And so you baked with your grandmother and then presumably you baked a lot of pies professionally.
Leslie: 是的,那只是个开始。在上烹饪学校之前我就是个面包师,所以我在那里做了很多派。上烹饪学校时我专注于咸味菜肴,所以就把所有甜点都放下了。然后我去了《玛莎·斯图尔特生活》,在那里你必须做所有的事情。
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>> Yes. That was just a start. I was a baker before I went to culinary school. So I made a lot of pies there. When I went to culinary school I focused on savory. So I kind of put all of the sweets aside and then I went to Martha Stewart where you have to do everything.
Christine: 你必须开发所有东西。所以我得以重新锻炼那些糕点制作的“肌肉”。
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>> You have to develop everything. And so I got to rebuild those pastry muscles.
Rosie: 是的。我们当时在《玛莎·斯图尔特生活》一起工作,就是那样认识的。我记得夏天的时候,就好像是为感恩节做准备的时候了。所以你当时在开发很多食谱,为了——
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>> Yeah. And we worked at Martha together. That's how we met. And I remember in the summer it was like time to prep for Thanksgiving. And so you were developing a lot of recipes at that point for
Leslie: 很多食谱。
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>> a lot of recipes. Whenever you guys talk about your time at Martha Stewart, I always just imagine you guys as like elves in like Santa's little workshop or something. Kind of
Christine: 就像在工作。
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>> just like working.
Leslie: 确实有种作坊的感觉。是的。
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>> Definitely had a workshop vibe. Yeah.
克服烘焙派的恐惧:核心原则与实践
Kyra: 我想这就像选你最喜欢的孩子一样。你有没有最喜欢的派?
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>> I wonder if this is like picking your favorite child. Do you have a favorite pie?
Leslie: 我最喜欢做的派,毫无疑问,是双层派皮的核果派(stone fruit pie: 指果肉包裹着坚硬果核的水果,如桃子、樱桃、李子等)。桃子、樱桃、李子。嗯,
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>> My favorite pie to make period is a double crust stone fruit pie. Peach, cherry, plum. Um,
Kyra: 核果就是这些吗?
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>> is that what stone fruit is?
Leslie: 是的。
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>> Yeah.
Christine: 哦天哪。我个人认为水果不应该热着吃,但这听起来确实不错。
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>> Oh my god. I personally think that fruit should not be hot, but that does actually sound good.
Leslie: 但水果派不是热着吃的。如果你想用微波炉加热,你必须先让它完全冷却。
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>> But you don't eat a fruit pie hot. You have to let it cool all the way if you want to throw it in the microwave.
Christine: 不可能吧。我感觉很多人都会把苹果派加热后配冰淇淋吃。
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>> No way. I feel like I've had so many like people heat up an apple pie and eat it with ice cream.
Leslie: 好的,你可以那样做。但我喜欢吃室温的派。
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>> Okay, you can do that. But I am a room temperature pie girl.
Christine: 好的,我尊重你的选择。
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>> Okay, I respect that.
Rosie: 是的,烘焙派确实可能令人望而生畏,尤其是如果你不经常做的话。如果你想在感恩节给人留下深刻印象,你有什么最好的建议来克服这种恐惧呢?
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>> Yeah, pie baking can definitely be intimidating, particularly if you don't do it often. If you're wanting to impress people at Thanksgiving, what is your best advice for overcoming that intimidation?
Leslie: 首先,购买现成派皮或派皮面团没什么可耻的。但如果你想自己做,我的建议是去查阅一些权威书籍。比如,去买罗斯·利维·贝伦鲍姆(Rose Levy Baron Bomb)的《派与糕点圣经》(Pie and Pastry Bible),阅读她关于派皮的所有论述。如果你读两本关于派烘焙的书,你会得到相同的建议吗?是不是需要学习、理解科学原理,然后才能掌握它?
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>> First of all, there's no shame in buying a crust or, you know, dough for the crust. But if you want to make it, what I would do is I would go look at some reputable books. Go pick up Rose Levy Baron Bomb's Pie and Pastry Bible and read everything she has to say about pie crust. If you pick up two books about pie baking, let's say, are you going to get the same type of advice? Is it like you need to study, understand the science, and then you can grasp it?
Leslie: 是的。我的意思是,大多数烘焙师都认同成功烘焙派的核心原则。这些核心原则包括:食材要冷。所有东西都必须保持低温。你不想过度揉搓面团。所以,你需要快速地将面团揉合并擀开。就像,不要害怕。而且不要让你的手融化黄油,因为黄油是切入面粉中的。当它烘烤时,正是这些黄油带来了派皮的膨胀感和酥脆感。这才是你真正想要的。所以,听起来你的意思是,如果你想克服那种恐惧感,就是不要害怕。你得放手去做。
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>> Yes. I mean, most bakers agree on the core tenets of successful pie baking. Those core tenets are cold ingredients. Everything has to stay cold. You don't want to overwork your dough. So, you want to work fast bringing the dough together and rolling it out. Like, no fear. And don't let your hands like melt that butter because the butter is cut into the flour. And when it bakes, that's what's giving you that puff, the flaky puffiness in the crust. That is really what you're looking for. So, it sounds like what you're saying, if you're trying to get over that intimidation factor, is no fear. Like, you kind of just have to go for it.
Kyra: 人们会在感恩节前收听这个节目。可能没有太多时间准备,但你建议在感恩节前做一些试验派吗?如果你想给人留下深刻印象的话,
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People will be listening to this right before Thanksgiving. There might not be a lot of time to prep, but do you advise making some test pies before Thanksgiving? If you are trying to kind of wow people,
Leslie: 你甚至可以只做一些试验面团,你知道,把它放在派盘里,练习给边缘做花边。如果你不打算填充派皮,那么你就不必经历盲烤(blind baking: 在加入馅料之前,先将派皮单独烘烤)的严格过程,我们稍后会详细讨论。你只需烤好它,然后尝尝,看看是否是你想要的质地和风味。
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>> you can even just make some like test doughs, you know, put it in a pie plate, practice fluting the edge. If you don't plan on filling that pie shell, then you don't have to like go through all the rigor of blind baking, which we will get into in a in a bit. Um, you can just bake it off and then taste it and see if it's the texture and the flavor that you're going for.
派烘焙工具:擀面杖与派盘的选择
Kyra: 好的,那我们开始吧。我们来谈谈工具。你认为制作一个美味的派真正必不可少的是什么?
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Okay, so let's get into it. Let's talk about the gear. What do you think is really essential to making a great pie?
Leslie: 一个锥形擀面杖(tapered rolling pin: 两端逐渐变细的擀面杖,有助于擀出圆形面团)。
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A tapered rolling pin.
Kyra: 为什么是锥形的?
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>> Why tapered?
Leslie: 锥形擀面杖能自然地将面团擀成圆形。而那种完美的圆柱形擀面杖,你得来回擀。锥形擀面杖则可以让你侧着施力,轻松地将面团擀成圆形。毫不费力。对于不熟悉这两种不同风格的听众来说,锥形擀面杖不一定有传统擀面杖那样的手柄;传统擀面杖有两端手柄,是一个完全均匀的圆柱体,你用它来回擀。而锥形擀面杖实际上更像一根两端逐渐变细的木棒。
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>> A tapered rolling pin because it naturally rolls that disc out into a circle. Whereas, you know, a perfectly cylindrical one, it's like back and forth, back and forth. Whereas with the tapered, you kind of lean down on one side and it just rolls it out into a cir. It's effortless. And for listeners who aren't familiar with these two different styles, um the tapered doesn't have necessarily handles like the traditional rolling pin where a traditional rolling pin has these two handles and it's a totally even cylinder that you're rolling back and forth with. The the tapered one is truly kind of like a dowel that's tapered on each side.
Leslie: 锥形擀面杖的另一个优点是,你会自然地从中间开始向外擀,这正是擀派皮的正确方法,因为这样擀出来的面团会均匀,形成完美的圆形。顺便说一下,我们喜欢的那款锥形擀面杖是由Wetstone公司制造的,用起来非常顺手。还有什么?保鲜膜。因为你需要把面团塑造成一个非常漂亮、完美的圆盘,然后用保鲜膜紧紧包裹起来,因为脂肪在冰箱里会吸收异味。
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>> And another great thing about the tapered rolling pin is that you just you naturally start from the middle and roll out, which is how you're supposed to roll out a pi dough because one, it's uniform. It's going to give you that perfect circle. Oh, and by the way, the tapered rolling pin we like is made by a company called Wetstone, and it is a joy to use. What else? Saran wrap. because you want to form that dough into like a really nice perfect disc and like wrap it really tightly with saran wrap because fat absorbs smell in the fridge
Leslie: 而且最好让面团在冰箱里冷藏过夜,最多两天。
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>> and it's ideal to let your dough rest in the fridge overnight up to two days.
Leslie: 如果两天内不用,就把它放进冰箱冷冻。
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>> If you're not going to use it in two days, throw it in the freezer.
Leslie: 你把面团做得越均匀,擀起来就越容易。保鲜膜的好处是,当你把面团放进去后,你可以拿起塑料的边缘,就这样塑形。这样就能得到一个非常好的形状。你开始擀面团时的形状,决定了它能否轻松擀成圆形。
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>> The more uniform you make your disc, the easier it's going to be to roll it out. And the great thing about saran wrap is like when you put the dough in there, you can like pick up the edges of the plastic and just kind of like form it like that. And um you can get like a really nice shape. What you start with when you roll it out has everything to do with how easy it rolls out into a circle.
Kyra: 哦,好的,明白了。
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>> Oh, okay. Got it.
Kyra: 我们来聊聊派盘吧,因为我觉得市面上有这么多不同类型的派盘可供选择。你能给我们介绍一下不同风格的派盘,以及你推荐用它们制作哪种派吗?
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Let's talk a little bit about the pie plate because I think there are so many different types of pie plates that you can choose from. Can you walk us through the different styles of pie plate and what kind of pies you'd recommend making in those?
Leslie: 是的,我很乐意,因为我对此有很多想法。玻璃康宁派盘(Pyrex pie plate: 一种耐热玻璃派盘,在美国厨房中很常见)在美国厨房里几乎就是派的代名词。它比较浅,主要用于大多数蛋奶派食谱,比如青柠派、南瓜派、酪乳派,任何蛋奶派都适用。
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>> Yes, I would love to because I have a lot of thoughts on this. So, the glass Pyrex pie plate is kind of synonymous in American kitchens with pie. It's a little shallower. It is made for most custard pie recipes for like a key lime pie and pumpkin pie, buttermilk pie, any like any like custard pie. Like that's what you want to put.
Christine: 而且它们也很便宜。
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>> And they're really cheap, too.
Leslie: 而且它们非常便宜。
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>> And they're very inexpensive.
Christine: 在这里,“便宜”是指多少钱?
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>> What's cheap in this context?
Leslie: 12或15美元。好的。
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>> 12 or 15 bucks. Okay.
Leslie: 以前更便宜。现在,和所有东西一样,但对于玻璃派盘来说,非常重要的一点是,你必须把派盘放在烤盘上。两者都处于室温,然后才能放进烤箱。
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>> They used to be less. Now, as with everything, but is very important with glass, you have to put that pie plate on a baking sheet. They're both at room temperature, and then you put it in the oven.
Christine: 为什么会这样?
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>> And why is that?
Leslie: 虽然不常见,但热冲击可能会使其碎裂。那么OXO(一家以厨房工具和用品闻名的品牌)呢?每当我们和厨房团队的人聊天时,这个品牌总是被提及,它碰巧是我们首选的派盘。所以与康宁派盘不同,OXO的玻璃派盘是深盘式的。
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>> It's not common, but the thermal shock could shatter it. So, what about OXO? Whenever we have conversations with anybody from the kitchen team, that brand always comes up and it happens to be our top pick pie plate. So unlike the Pyrex, the OXO glass pie plate is deep dish.
Christine: 好的?
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>> Okay?
Leslie: 你知道,这对我来说很有趣,因为你很难找到非深盘式的派盘,我想这只是流行趋势。我很少用我的深盘,因为我喜欢浅一些的派。
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>> You know, and it's it's funny to me because you'd be hardressed to find pie plates that are not a deep dish style because I think that's just what is in and out of favor. I rarely use mine because I like a shallow pie.
Christine: 那么,如果我没理解错,如果你不经常烤派,所以想买一个尽可能多功能的派盘,你最好选择浅盘而不是深盘,
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So, to get this straight, if you don't really bake pies that often, so you want to get like the most versatile pie plate possible, you're probably better off going with a shallower dish than a deep one,
Leslie: 我觉得是这样。因为你仍然可以在康宁派盘里制作双层派皮的水果派。好的。所以,我的意思是,你的水果与派皮的比例不会和深盘一样,但你知道,那是个人口味问题。
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>> I think. So, because you can still make a double crust fruit pie in a Pyrex. Okay. So, I mean, your fruit to crust ratio will not be the same as a deep dish, but you know, that's personal taste.
Kyra: 那么其他深盘派盘呢?我知道我们推荐一些陶瓷派盘。
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What about other deep dish pie plates? I know we recommend some stone wear.
Leslie: 是的,埃米尔·亨利(Emil Henry: 法国著名的陶瓷厨具品牌)。我有一个,很漂亮。如果有人点苹果派,我就会用它来做。
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>> Yeah, the Emil Henry. And I have one and it's beautiful. And if someone requests an apple pie, that's what I'm going to make it in.
Kyra: 陶瓷派盘比玻璃派盘有什么优势?比如,你为什么要选择它?
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What's the advantage of a stone wear plate over glass? Like, why would you want to choose that one?
Leslie: 它不会有碎裂的风险。
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>> There's no chance of that shattering.
Christine: 你可以把它从烤箱里拿出来,直接放在花岗岩台面上,它会没事的。但我非常喜欢在烘焙石板(baking stone: 一种用于烤箱的石板,能均匀传导热量,常用于烤披萨或派)上烘焙,就像披萨石板一样,尤其是派。
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>> You can take it from the oven and put it like right on top of a granite countertop and it will be fine. But I'm a huge fan of baking on a baking stone, like a pizza stone, especially pies.
Kyra: 为什么?
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>> Why?
Leslie: 因为它能让你的派皮烤得更焦黄。哦,是的。好得多。就像——
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>> Because it browns your crust. Oh yeah. So much better. Like
Kyra: 热量传导更好。
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>> the heat conducts better.
Leslie: 我的意思是,一旦你的烤箱预热好,那块石板就已经吸收了大量的热量。它有那么多的热量可以释放。它有那么多的爱可以给予。所以当你把派放进去时,派基本上就像把它吸走了。
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>> I mean, it's once your oven is preheated, that stone has just absorbed so much. And it it has so much heat to give. It has so much love to give. And so so when you put your pie, it the pie basically like sucks it up. H
Christine: 我记得测试派盘时有一点,就是用玻璃派盘很容易看到派皮是否烤好。你只需从下面看,就能看到它是否已经焦黄。
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one thing I remember from testing pie plates is that it's so easy with a glass plate to see when your crust is done. You just look underneath. You can see if it's browned,
Leslie: 你知道,那是一个巨大的优势。而用陶瓷派盘,因为你无法看穿它,我经常发现派底会比较苍白或未熟。所以,听起来对于使用陶瓷派盘的人来说,这是一个很好的建议,就是用烘焙石板来帮助派底更好地焦黄。我也喜欢烘焙石板,因为它能一直调节烤箱的温度。比如,如果你的烤箱很旧或者公寓里的烤箱不太好,放一块烘焙石板在里面真的有助于调节温度,你不会出现那种剧烈的温度波动,但这属于电器节目的范畴了。
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>> you know, that's a huge advantage. And with the stone wear plates, because you can't see through them, I often found that's when I had sort of like a pale bottom or one that was undercooked. So, it sounds like that is a great tip for people using the the stone wear is like to get that to help brown it better on the bottom. I also love a baking stone just for regulating oven heat all the time. Like if you have an old oven or an apartment oven that is not great, a baking stone in there really helps to regulate the heat and you won't get those intense like spikes and chops, but that is an appliance show.
Kyra: 那么莱斯利,我想还有其他几类派盘我们可以快速提一下。有锡制派盘,你在很多复古商店都能看到,我喜欢它们。是的,它们很漂亮。当然,还有你在杂货店看到的那些非常薄的派盘。那些是铝制的吗?
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So Leslie, I think there's a couple other categories of pie plates that maybe we could just touch on really quickly. There are tin pie plates which you see all over vintage places and I love them. Yes, they're beautiful. And then of course there are the really flimsy ones you see at the grocery store. Are those the aluminum ones?
Leslie: 是的,铝制的。那些可以用吗?在什么情况下你会使用这两种派盘?
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>> Yeah, the the aluminum ones. Are those okay to use? And in which case would you use either one of these?
Leslie: 我不讨厌铝制派盘。这没什么可耻的。不过我想说的是,既然你懂,我会把它们叠起来用,因为通常一包有三个。
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>> So I don't hate the aluminum ones. There is no shame. What I would say though is that since you know I would double up because you usually get like a pack of three,
Leslie: 只要把它们叠起来增加一点支撑,而且我不想听起来像个老生常谈,但一定要把它放在烤盘上烘烤。
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>> just double it up to give you a little extra support and hate to sound like a broken record, bake it on a baking sheet.
Kyra: 你能解释一下为什么吗?原因是什么?
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>> And can you just explain why? Like what what is the reason?
Leslie: 原因有很多。首先,馅料可能会溢出,尤其是在做水果派的时候。其次,这样更容易将派放进和取出烤箱,你知道,而不是试图用隔热手套去抓那个装满熔岩般馅料的斜边派盘。还有玻璃派盘,你不想把室温的玻璃直接放在热烤箱架上。同样,你也不想把刚从热烤箱里取出的玻璃直接放在室温台面上,你应该总是使用烘焙架。总之,不要把任何热的东西直接放在台面上。就像冷却架一样。就像冷却架。
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>> There are so many reasons why. First, spillage the filling can like bubble over, especially when you know you're doing a fruit pie. Second, it's easier to get the pie in and out of the oven, you know, instead of trying to like get hot mitts around like this sloped edged thing that's full of molten lava. And also glass. You don't want to put room temperature glass directly on a hot oven rack. And again, you don't want to put hot oven glass directly on a room temperature countertop, which you should always use um a baking rack. Just don't put anything hot on your counter top. Like a cooling rack. Like a cooling rack.
Christine: 就像冷却架。
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>> Like a cooling rack.
Leslie: 它就是好用。如果你担心要清理黏糊糊、热乎乎、烧焦的含糖派馅,它能让你的生活更轻松。你只需在烤盘上铺一层锡纸,就可以开始了。
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>> It It's just good. It It It makes your life easier if you're worried about having to clean sticky, hot, burnt, sugary pie filling. Then you just put some foil on that baking sheet and you're good to go.
Kyra: 那么这些漂亮的锡制派盘呢?好的,锡的导热性比玻璃好得多,玻璃实际上是绝缘体。如果你真的想烤出一个漂亮、金黄酥脆的派底,那就去旧货店找找旧的金属派盘吧。当你说金属导热性更好时,它是在帮助派皮更快、更高效地烤熟,对吗?
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>> And what about these beautiful tin plates? Okay, so tin it conducts heat so much better than glass is actually an insulator. If you really want to have a beautifully cooked bottom crust that's nice and golden brown, start looking for old metal pie tins at the thrift stores. And when you say that the metal conducts heat better, what it's doing is helping cook the crust faster, right? And more efficiently.
Leslie: 更高效。这样你就能得到那种外层烤熟的效果。出现湿软派底的可能性也更小,我们稍后会深入探讨。
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>> More efficiently. And so you get that outside like bake. There's less of a chance of a soggy bottom, which we will get into.
Kyra: 是的,我们会谈论湿软派底。那也不是避免湿软派底的唯一方法。好的。还有其他方法,但对我来说,金属派盘加上烘焙石板就是……所以,莱斯利,我在这里听到的意思是,当涉及到为感恩节烘焙派时,你不需要把事情搞得太复杂。最好的做法是确保你有两件合适的工具。本质上,你需要一个好的派盘,它可能只是杂货店里买的一个。而正确形状的擀面杖真的会很有帮助。然后,如果你有时间、耐心和内在的储备,也许可以在大日子之前练习制作你的派。
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>> Yeah, we're going to talk about soggy bottoms. And that's not the only way to avoid a soggy bottom. Okay. There are other ways, but to me, metal pie plus baking stone is like So, what I'm hearing here, Leslie, is that when it comes to baking a pie for Thanksgiving, you don't need to over complicate things. The best thing to do is to make sure you've got the right two pieces of gear. Essentially, you need a good pie plate, and it could be just one from the grocery store. And the right shape of uh rolling pin is really going to help out. And then if you have the time, patience, the inner reserve, maybe practice making your pie before the big day.
Leslie: 是的。
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>> Yeah.
Rosie: 休息回来后,我们将深入探讨派皮的细节。莱斯利将分享制作酥脆美味派皮的最佳技巧。此外,她还将帮助我们解决人们常遇到的派烘焙问题,尤其是在压力之下。我们马上回来。
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After the break, we're going to get into the details on pie dough. So Leslie's best tips for making great dough that's flaky and delicious. Plus, she's going to help us troubleshoot common pie problems people tend to have, especially under pressure. We'll be right back.
制作派皮:工具、黄油与现成选择
欢迎回来。休息前,我们讨论了烘焙派所需的所有工具,并听取了莱斯利的建议。现在我们转向派皮。派皮是制作美味派非常重要的一部分。所以,我想知道你用什么工具来制作派皮。好了,大家别有压力,但对我来说,派皮是最重要的部分。我喜欢派皮。我认为如果你刚开始学做派,最好的设备是食物料理机(food processor: 一种厨房电器,用于切碎、混合、磨碎食物)。
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Welcome back. Before the break, we talked about all the gear that you need for baking pies with recommendations from you, Leslie. Dough. We're flipping over to dough. It's such a big part of making a great pie. So, I want to know what tools are you using to make your pie dough. Okay, no pressure y'all, but the dough is the most important part to me. To me, I love crust. I think that if you are just starting out, the best piece of equipment is a food processor
Leslie: 因为它能快速地将黄油切入面粉,并混合冰水——前提是你使用点动模式,而不是持续运行,但你仍然需要留意它。
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>> because that is going to make quick work of cutting that butter into the flour and getting the ice water incorporated assuming that like you're pulsing, you're not running it, you know, but you still have to like keep an eye on it.
Christine: 很多人都有这个。我,你知道,
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>> And a lot of people have them. I, you know,
Leslie: 我觉得是。我觉得它们很常见。
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>> I think so. I think they're pretty common.
Kyra: 是的。如果我没记错的话,你已经有点不再使用卡西纳特(Cuisinart: 著名的厨房电器品牌,尤以食物料理机闻名)了。
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>> Yeah. You have sort of moved away from using a quezin art if I'm correct.
Leslie: 是的。我只是在和大家、普通人说话。是的。解决方案。
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>> I have. I'm just talking to the folks general people. Yeah. Solution.
Kyra: 我又回到了模拟方式。
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>> I've gone back to analog.
Christine: 在这种情况下,“模拟方式”是什么意思?
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>> What is analog in in in this circumstance?
Leslie: 在这种情况下,模拟方式就是我使用糕点搅拌器(pastry blender: 一种U形带手柄的厨房工具,用于将黄油切入面粉,制作酥皮面团)。它就是那个带手柄的U形工具。
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>> Analog in this circumstance is I use a pastry blender, which is like that U-shaped thing with the handle.
Kyra: 哦,好的。我查了一下这个,因为我不知道手动糕点搅拌器长什么样。它看起来有点像金刚狼的爪子。
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>> Oh, okay. So, I I've looked this up cuz I have no idea what a manual pastry blender looks like. It kind of looks like a Wolverine.
Leslie: 是的。是的。它看起来在打架时肯定能派上用场。
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>> Yeah. With Yeah. It It looks like it could definitely come in handy during a fight.
Kyra: 是的,有点像铜指关节。哦,是的。特别是如果你把工作端在火焰上加热的话。算了。现在我们扯到《搏击俱乐部》了。好的,我现在用的,我觉得是我最喜欢的一个,是Crate & Barrel(一家美国家居用品零售商)的这款。我真的很喜欢它的木质手柄,因为即使我手上沾了一层薄薄的黄油,我仍然能牢牢握住它。你为什么要用它而不是食物料理机呢?因为我想象中,食物料理机的刀片会保持低温或至少室温,而你用金刚狼爪子一样的东西,你的手和皮肤的温度会靠近它。
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>> Yeah, like like brass knuckles kind of. Oh, yeah. Especially if you heat up the business end on a on over a flame. Never mind. That's now Now we're getting into fight club. Okay, so the one I I use now and I think is kind of my favorite one is this one from Kraton Barrel. And I really like the wood handle because I can still get a grip on it even though I have this thin layer of butter on my hands. Why would you want that instead of a food processor? Because I imagine with a food processor, the blade is staying cold or at least room temperature, whereas you have the Wolverine thing, your hand and the temperature of your skin is getting close to it.
Leslie: 是的。但我工作速度很快。这不是我第一次做这种事了。是的,食物料理机很棒。但我讨厌清洗食物料理机。
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>> Yeah. But I work very fast. I This is not my first rodeo. And yes, the food processor is great. I hate cleaning a food processor.
Kyra: 就这么简单。
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>> It doesn't go any deeper than that.
Christine: 是的。不,我明白。我不太常用我的食物料理机,因为我真的不喜欢清洗它。所以,我讨厌清洗它。
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>> Yeah. No, I get that. I don't use my food processor much because I really do not like to clean it. So, I hate cleaning it.
Kyra: 好的。那么,还有其他什么手动工具吗?
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Okay. So, what else in terms of hand tools?
Leslie: 大约六年前,我收到了亚瑟王面团打蛋器(King Arthur dough whisk: 一种特殊的打蛋器,用于混合面团,减少过度搅拌)。我不知道,大概六年前吧,我的生活就改变了。面团打蛋器。它有一个长柄,末端是钢制的粗线圈状。它的作用是——我刚查了一下这个东西的图片,它看起来就像小孩子画出来的一样。
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>> I was gifted the King Arthur dough whisk. I don't know, maybe six years ago, and my life changed. A dough whisk. It has a longish handle and a steel thick gauge wire like looploop business end. And what it does is I just looked up a picture of this thing and it looks like something a kid would draw.
Christine: 嗯,那个孩子是个天才。
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>> Well, that kid's a genius.
Leslie: 所以,它的作用是能相当无缝且不费力地将液体混合到你的酥皮面团中。比如,如果你用叉子将液体搅入面粉中,面粉会粘在叉子的齿上,结果叉子上的比碗里的还多。用这个工具就不会发生这种情况。
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So, what it does is it incorporates the liquid into your pastry dough pretty like seamlessly and effortlessly. Like if you use a fork to like stir in liquid into like a flowery situation, it just gloms around the tines of the fork and then you have more on your fork than in the bowl. That doesn't happen with this thing.
Kyra: 莱斯利,我有一个卡西纳特。我也有一个这种糕点切割器。我很好奇,这些不同的工具制作出来的面团质量会有区别吗?好的,《线材切割》的听众们,你们即将见识我的强迫症了。注意了。当你将黄油切入面粉,开始制作酥皮面团时,一般的说明是直到它看起来像粗玉米粉,并带有一些扁豆或豌豆大小的颗粒。食物料理机无法给我带来我所追求的那种美妙的质地变化。
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Leslie, I have a quezart. I have one of these pastry cutters. I'm curious like is there a difference in the quality of dough that these different tools will make? Okay, wire cutter audience, you're about to be exposed to my OCD. Lock in. When you cut butter into flour, when you're starting to make a pastry dough, the general instruction is until it resembles a coarse meal with some bits the size of a lentil or like a pee. The food processor does not give me that variation that I am looking for and is really beautiful.
Christine: 听起来它也给你更多的控制权,这些手动工具通常都能提供更多的控制。
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>> It sounds like it also gives you more control like the these hand tools just in general give you more control.
Leslie: 我告诉过你我有强迫症,对吧?
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>> I did tell you I was OCD, right?
Leslie: 话虽如此,如果你有手部力量或手部活动能力的问题,就不要听我关于酥皮的这些抱怨了。请使用食物料理机。请做最适合你的事。
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All of that said, if you have hand strength or hand mobility issues, don't listen to me on this flaky rant. Use the food processor. Please do what works for you.
Rosie: 好的,我们来谈谈派皮制作的主角,我想那就是黄油。你曾来和我们聊过黄油。你为《线材切割》做了一个非常棒的黄油测评,我们还专门做了一期节目。我们会在节目笔记中附上链接。你最喜欢用哪种黄油来烘焙派?
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All right, let's talk about the star of the dough show, I think, which is butter. Um, you came and talked with us about butter. You did a really great butter review for Wire Cutter, and we did an episode on it. We'll link to that in the show notes. What is your favorite butter for pie baking?
Leslie: 哦,我的意思是,毫无疑问,是凯瑞金无盐黄油(Kerrygold unsalted: 爱尔兰著名的无盐黄油品牌,以其浓郁的奶香味闻名)。我稍后会谈到它。但凯瑞金黄油能做出如此美味、酥脆、充满风味的派皮。你可以使用超市的普通黄油,也没问题,但如果你的黄油尝起来没什么味道,那么你就不会得到那种浓郁的黄油风味。
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>> Oh, I mean, hands down, it's KY Gold unsalted. And I'll talk about that in a second. But KY Gold is it makes such a luscious, flaky, flavorful, so flavorful pie crust. You could use supermarket butter and it will be fine, but if your butter doesn't taste like anything, then you're not going to get that buttery flavor.
Kyra: 好的。对。这很有道理。
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>> Okay. Right. That just makes sense.
Christine: 完全同意。莱斯利,我听你这么说,感觉做派既神奇又费力。说实话,我不会做那么多。那么,你觉得那些商店里买的派皮怎么样?因为我确定对于那些只想快速完成,只需担心馅料的人来说,那是一个选择。你觉得呢?
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>> Totally. I'm hearing you, Leslie, and it sounds like pie making can be magical. It also sounds like a lot of work. I'm not going to lie, I'm not doing all that. So, what do you think? Like, what's your opinion on those storebought pie crusts? Cuz I'm sure that's an option for people if they just want something quick and they only have to worry about the filling. What do you think?
Leslie: 做最适合你的事。现在情况很艰难。我们都在尽力而为。如果制作派皮的想法让你感到压力,而且你看,我曾为远比这小的事情感到压力,那你就直接去买派皮吧。那么,当你去商店买现成派皮时,你在配料表上会寻找什么?
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>> Do what works for you. Times are tough. We're all getting by the best we can. The idea of making a pie crust is stressing you out. And look, I've been stressed out by far less, then just go buy the pie crust. So, what are you looking for in the ingredients list when you're running to the store to get a storebought pie crust?
Leslie: 黄油。只要确保他们使用了黄油。即使不是全黄油,它也能发挥作用,但如果是全黄油,味道会更好。这不就是我们,你知道,
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>> Butter. Just make sure that they use butter. It's going to perform the function if it's not all butter, but like the all butter, it's going to taste good. And isn't that why we're, you know,
Kyra: 为什么做不好吃的东西会很费力呢?
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>> why it's a lot of work to to make something that doesn't taste good?
Leslie: 是的。
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>> Yeah.
Kyra: 而且我们确实有刚发布的现成派皮测评。所以,你应该去看看。我们会在节目笔记中提供链接。莱斯利,我知道有些食谱要求预烤派皮(par baking: 在加入馅料之前,先将派皮部分烘烤)。我觉得这很吓人。预烤的意思是在你填充馅料之前,先将派皮烤熟。
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>> And we do have this review of store-bought crusts that we just published. So, you should check that out. We'll have it in the show notes. Leslie, I know some recipes call for par baking a pie crust. I find that very intimidating. Par baking meaning cooking the crust before you fill it with your filling.
Christine: 从你的角度或你的知识来看,为什么要这样做?最好的方法是什么?
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>> Why in in your perspective or from your knowledge, why would you do that? And what is the best technique to do it?
Leslie: 你觉得它令人望而生畏。我发现它简直烦人。但我相信如果我知道怎么做,我也会觉得它烦人。
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>> You find it intimidating. I find it downright annoying. But I'm sure if I knew how to do it, I would also find it annoying.
Leslie: 在某些情况下,预烤派皮是必要的。其中一种情况是,如果你的派馅烤熟的速度比生派皮快得多,那么是的,你会想要预烤你的派皮。
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It is necessary in some instances to par bake your pie crust. One of them is if you're pie filling bakes much faster than your pie crust would from raw, then yes, you're going to want to parbake your pie crust.
Kyra: 有哪些特定类型的派属于这一类吗?
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>> Are there certain types of pie that fit into that category?
Leslie: 南瓜派,大多数蛋奶派。
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>> Pumpkin pie, most custard pies.
Kyra: 好的。哦,另一个原因是你如果真的想避免湿软派底,这也是一种方法。
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>> Okay. Oh, and another reason why you would is if you really want to avoid a soggy bottom, that's one way to do it.
Christine: 我们能定义一下什么是湿软派底吗?
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>> And can can we just define what a soggy bottom is?
Leslie: 我的意思是,你有没有吃过那种派,尤其是中间部分的派底,软塌塌的,还没烤熟?那就是湿软派底。
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>> I mean, have you ever had a piece of pie and like the bottom crust, especially towards the middle, is like floppy and raw. That's a soggy bottom.
感恩节派品新选择与常见问题诊断
Christine: 莱斯利,我有一个问题,其实是为我自己巧妙掩饰的。嗯,我不喜欢传统的南瓜派。它不是我的最爱。我对山核桃派也犹豫不决。我通常不太喜欢感恩节的传统派。你有什么派可以推荐给像我这样,想带一个派,想烤一个派,但又不想做感恩节传统派的人吗?
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Leslie, I have a question that is very thinly masked for myself. Um, I am not into traditional pumpkin pie. I it's not my favorite. I am like on the fence about pecan pie. I'm just generally not into the Thanksgiving pies. Are there any pies that you would recommend for someone in my situation who wants to bring a pie, wants to bake a pie, but doesn't want to do the Thanksgiving traditional pies?
Leslie: 是的。好的。所以,我想李子可能还在市面上。我喜欢双层派皮的李子派。它基本上就是用李子做的桃子派。
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>> Yes. Okay. So, I think plums might still be around. And I love a double crust plum pie. And it's basically just a peach pie with plums.
Christine: 不错。拿一个桃子派的食谱,把桃子换成李子,你就可以开始了。
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Nice. Take a peach pie recipe, swap out the peaches for plums, and you are good to go.
Leslie: 双层派皮,意思是底部有派皮,顶部也有派皮。就像“四又二十只黑鸟”那首歌里唱的。是的。好的。
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>> Double crust, meaning crust on the bottom, crust on the top. Four and 20 blackbirds. Yeah. Okay.
Kyra: 我喜欢李子派。你说你不喜欢山核桃派,但它是一个单层派皮的派,而且你不需要盲烤派皮。所以,你知道,这方面你占优势。
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>> I love a plum pie. Now, you said you don't like pecan pie, but it is a single crust pie, and you don't have to blind bake that crust. So, you know, you have that going for you.
Christine: 好的。现在是十一月,所以我们正处于柑橘季的开端,所以不要忽视柠檬。
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>> Okay. It's November, so uh we are at the very beginning of citrus season, so don't like sleep on the lemons.
Kyra: 啊,你懂我!我喜欢柠檬蛋白派。
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>> Ah, you're speaking my language, right? I love a lemon mering pie.
Leslie: 太好吃了。你有没有尝过摇摇柠檬派(shaker lemon pie: 一种美国中西部传统派,使用整个柠檬,包括皮和果肉,切片后与糖混合制成馅料)?
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>> So good. I don't know if you ever had a shaker lemon pie.
Christine: 提醒我一下,摇摇——
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>> Remind me of what a shaker
Leslie: 摇摇柠檬派使用整个柠檬,但不包括籽。这时像迈耶柠檬(Meyer lemon: 一种柠檬与橘子杂交的品种,皮薄、汁多、甜度高,酸度较低)就非常必要了,因为你需要皮薄的柠檬。摇摇柠檬派的口味深度和复杂性是甜、酸、微苦的结合。哦,它简直是一场味觉的交响乐。我的意思是,它有糖,柠檬。
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>> So a shaker lemon pie uses the entire lemon but not the seeds. This is when like the meer lemons are very necessary cuz you want like a thin pith lemon. The depth and complexity of flavor in a shaker lemon pie is like sweet, tart, a little bit bitter. Oh, it's a symphony. I mean, it's sugar, lemon.
Kyra: 是的。糖,柠檬,
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>> Yeah. Sugar, lemon,
Leslie: 黄油,黄油,底部黄油,顶部黄油,糖和黄油。我的意思是,你还在寻找什么?
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>> butter, butter, butter on the bottom, butter on the top, sugar, and butter. I mean, what are you What more are you looking for?
Christine: 这个,这个是我的宾果卡。我想我要做这个。我喜欢这个。
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>> This one is is this is my bingo card. I'm I think I'm doing this one. I like this one.
Leslie: 哦,太好吃了。
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>> Oh, it's so good.
Kyra: 什么是酪乳派(buttermilk pie: 一种美国南方传统派,馅料主要由酪乳、鸡蛋、糖和面粉制成,口感介于蛋奶冻和芝士蛋糕之间)?
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>> What is buttermilk pie?
Leslie: 哦,天哪。那是南方的主食。而且它是一种经济实惠的派。它由酪乳、鸡蛋、糖和面粉制成。
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>> Oh, man. That is a staple of the South. And it is an economic pie. It's buttermilk, eggs, sugar, and flour.
Christine: 噢,真好吃。你把所有这些混合在一起,然后倒入预烤过的派皮中,再烤熟。它的简单之处在于,我的意思是,它的美味远超其各部分的总和,各位。又是一个好选择。
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>> Ooh, yum. And you whisk all of those together and then you pour it into, you know, a parbaked crust and you bake it off. And it is the simplicity. I mean, it is so much more than the sum of its parts, y'all. Again, another one.
Kyra: 我很喜欢这个。
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>> I'm loving this.
Leslie: 我还需要提一下无派盘的派选项,那就是法式水果挞(galette: 一种自由形态的乡村派,通常没有派盘,将面团边缘折叠包裹住馅料)。因为现在又是梨的季节。它非常非常简单。我混合了一种我们以前称之为“精灵粉”的东西,就是磨碎的烤杏仁、一点面粉和一些糖。把它铺在圆形派皮的底部。然后我把切好的梨片扇形铺开。然后我只需拿起边缘,折叠起来。你不需要派盘。
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>> I also need to mention the plateless pie option is a pearlette because again, pears are in season. It is so very simple. Like I mix up something we used to call pixie dust, which is ground toasted almonds, a little bit of flour, and some sugar. Put that like on the bottom of the circle of pie dough. And then I fan out a bunch of pears that I've sliced. And then I just pick up the sides and just fold it over. And you don't need a pie plate.
Christine: 所以它就像一个糕点。它是自由形态的。
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>> So it's like a pastry. It's free form.
Leslie: 它是自由形态的。它很质朴。
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>> It's free form. It's rustic.
Christine: 好的。
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>> Okay.
Leslie: 它是法式的。
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>> It's French.
Kyra: 你有什么好的无麸质派皮推荐吗?比如有没有坚果派皮之类的你会推荐的?
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Do you have a recommendation for a a good glutenfree type of crust? Like is there like a nut crust or something that you would recommend?
Leslie: 嗯,所以大家普遍认为,市面上现有的无麸质烘焙预拌粉(gluten-free baking mix cup for cup: 一种无麸质烘焙粉,可以等量替代普通面粉)最适合制作派。它的理念是,在其他所有配料都相同的情况下,你会得到美味的成品。你得到的不仅美味,而且非常接近含麸质面粉制作的派皮。你会得到最接近的效果。
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>> Um, so the consensus is the gluten-free baking mix cup for cup of the baking mixes that are available. That one is best for pie making. The idea is that using all of the other ingredients the same, you're going to get something that's tasty. You're going to get something that is not just tasty, but like damn close to your gluten flour pie crust like that. You're going to get closest.
Rosie: 好的,莱斯利,我们想快速进行一个闪电问答环节,由你来诊断常见的派烘焙问题。我来提出问题,你直接告诉我答案。
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All right, Leslie, we want to do a really quick lightning round where you diagnose common pie problems. So, I'm gonna give you the problem and just off the dome, tell me what the answer is.
Leslie: 好的。没问题。湿软派底。
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>> Okay. All right. Soggy bottom crust.
Leslie: 嗯,首先,你烤派的时间不够长。不过,你也可以做一些事情。你可以给派皮撒粉,意思是,你混合一茶匙面粉和白砂糖,然后撒在——
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Well, one, you're not baking your pie long enough. However, there are some things you can do. You can dust the crust, meaning uh you mix like a teaspoon of flour and white granulated sugar and you just dust
Leslie: 在放入馅料之前撒在派皮上。你还可以——
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>> the crust before you put your filling in. You can also
Kyra: 那有什么用?
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>> What does that do?
Leslie: 它能吸收一些水分,让派皮变得酥脆。
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>> It absorbs some moisture so that it crisps up.
Kyra: 所以你的派皮不会吸收水分,它就像一层小小的屏障。
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>> So your crust isn't absorbing like it it's like a bit of like a little barrier.
Leslie: 另一种方法是,你可以打发一些蛋清,然后用蛋清刷派皮。这也能形成一层很好的小屏障,
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Another way to do it is you can whip up some egg white and brush your crust with some egg white. Also creates a nice little barrier
Leslie: 这样馅料中的水分就不会渗入派皮。
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>> so that the moisture from the filling doesn't soak in to the crust.
Leslie: 如果你真的想要这种“保险”,这两种方法都非常简单。
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>> If you like really want that insurance that those are two very easy ways to do it.
Kyra: 好的。派皮坚硬或有嚼劲。
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>> Okay. Tough or chewy crust.
Leslie: 你揉面团揉过头了。我很抱歉,姑娘。
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>> You overworked that dough. I'm sorry, girl.
Kyra: 那就没办法了,我想——
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>> Nothing to do about that. I guess
Leslie: 我的意思是,你可以通过确保面团得到充分休息并保持非常冷来缓解这个问题。
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I mean what you can do is you can mitigate by making sure that dough is gets a lot of rest and is very cold.
Kyra: 好的。
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>> Okay.
Leslie: 你可以确保你的馅料味道非常好。
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>> You can make sure your filling tastes really good.
Kyra: 是的。过度弥补。
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>> Yeah. Overcompensate.
Leslie: 不要把馅料搞砸了。
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>> Don't mess up your filling.
Kyra: 对。如果你的面团擀开时碎了怎么办?
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>> Right. What if your dough crumbles when you roll it out?
Leslie: 好的。所以,我们甚至从未谈论过制作面团时加水过多或过少的问题。当你将水混入面团时,建议是加水直到面团捏起来能粘合在一起。
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>> Okay. So, we never even talked about like making the dough and like adding too much water. not enough water. When you're incorporating the water into your dough, the advice is you add water just until the dough holds together when squeezed.
Leslie: 当你擀面团时它碎了,你得用手稍微把它弄热一点。我很抱歉。这时黄油会帮到你。因为你不想在擀面团时给它喷水,那样它会粘在擀面杖上。
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When you're rolling it out and it crumbles, you got to kind of warm it with your hands. I'm so sorry. This is when the butter is going to help you. Uh because you don't want to like spritz your dough while you're trying to roll it out cuz it's just going to like stick to your rolling pin.
Kyra: 嗯。
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>> Mhm.
Leslie: 那时我就会拿起面团,像玩橡皮泥一样在手里揉一揉,但不要揉太多,只要它能保持形状就行。好的。最后一个。烤焦的花边边缘。嗯,当你看到那些边缘变得有点太焦黄时,你就用那个盖住它们。你拿一条铝箔纸,把边缘盖起来。
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>> That's when I would just pick up the dough and just kind of like knead it in my hands like it's play-doh, but not too much so that it'll hold a shape. Right. Last one. Burnt fluted edges. Well, when you see those when you see those girls getting a little too tan, you cover them with that. You get a strip of aluminum foil and you just tent the edges.
Kyra: 这不是一个有趣的活儿,但它能防止你的派皮边缘烤焦。而且我最喜欢派的边缘。我爱它。
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>> It's not a fun task, but it will keep you from having burnt edges on your pie crust. And like the edge is my favorite. I love it.
莱斯利的派皮食谱与烘焙的乐趣
Rosie: 在我们结束之前,我们通常会问最后一个问题,但这次我们要反其道而行之,因为你以前来过这里。
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Before we wrap, we usually ask one final question, but we're going to flip the script on you this time because you've been here before.
Rosie: 你最喜欢的派皮食谱是什么?经典的法式酥皮面团(pâte brisée: 法语意为“碎面团”,一种基础派皮,口感酥脆,常用于制作甜咸派)。
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>> What's your favorite pie crust recipe? A classic pat brie in French that translates to broken crust
Leslie: 但它需要两块黄油,两杯半通用面粉,半茶匙犹太盐,一茶匙糖,以及适量的冰水。
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>> but it's two sticks of butter, two and 1/2 cups of AP flour, half teaspoon of kosher salt, teaspoon of sugar and ice water as you need it.
Christine: 她简直就是把整个——
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>> She literally just listed the entire
Kyra: 我喜欢这个,它就在你的脑海里。
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>> I love that that's just in your in your brain.
Rosie: 莱斯利,非常感谢你。我想我们都学到了很多,希望这里有很多内容能对大家今年的感恩节有所帮助。
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>> Lesie, thank you so much. I think um we all learned a lot and hopefully there's a lot in here that will be helpful for folks uh this Thanksgiving.
Leslie: 非常感谢。这是我最喜欢的烹饪话题,你们是我最喜欢聊天的人。所以——
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>> Thank you so much. This is my favorite cooking subject and y'all are my favorite people to yap to. So
Kyra: 我们爱你。
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>> we love you.
Christine: 又一次和莱斯利愉快的聊天。她真是太棒了。
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>> Another great chat with Lesie. She really is.
Kyra: 她太有趣了。每次她拿起麦克风,我都能学到很多。对我来说,其中一个主要体会是,烘焙派确实和看起来一样困难,这有点让人感到谦卑。
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>> She's so fun. I learn so much every time she hops on the mic. One of the main things for me is uh a little bit of a humbling idea that pie baking actually is as difficult as it seems.
Christine: 我不知道。我反而觉得这有点安慰,因为它很难,但当你能够克服它并完成,呈现出非常棒的作品时,你应该感到自豪。
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>> I don't know. I kind of find that comforting because it's tough, but when you are able to get through it and do it and present something really great, you should feel proud.
Kyra: 是的。是的。绝对是。我通常不是感恩节聚会上的派烘焙师,但我想今年我会尝试,因为我被这个摇摇柠檬派深深吸引了。我记得在《玛莎·斯图尔特生活》尝过它们,它们非常美味,我想自己动手试试。
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>> Yeah. Yeah. Absolutely. I am usually not the pie baker in my Thanksgiving cohort, but I think I will this year because I was very inspired by this shaker lemon pie. I remember tasting them at Martha Stewart. They are delicious and I want to try doing it myself.
Christine: 但我也会对别人烘焙派抱有更大的感激之情,因为就像你说的,这需要付出很多努力。我的意思是,要做出酥脆的派皮,所有这些投入,真的就像一份爱的劳动。所以——
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>> But I'm also just going to take a greater appreciation when someone bakes a pie because there's a lot of work that goes into it like you were saying. I mean to get that crust flaky, all of the stuff that goes into it, it's really like a labor of love. So
Kyra: 是的。如果你不想做这些,我喜欢莱斯利不带评判的态度,而且使用现成派皮也并非大逆不道。直接去杂货店买就行了。
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>> yeah. And if you don't feel like doing that, I like that Leslie isn't judgmental and getting a pre-made crust isn't sacrilegious. Just go get it from the grocery store.
Christine: 去买一个就行。我们的网站上有很多很棒的推荐。我们确实品尝了很多。所以,
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>> Just go get one. We have lots of great recommendations on the site. We did taste a lot of them. So,
Rosie: 如果你想了解更多关于莱斯利今天推荐的任何东西,她的任何美食报道,包括她关于派的报道,请访问我们的网站。我们会在节目笔记中附上所有推荐链接。非常感谢您的收听。感谢您。再见。
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>> if you want to find out more about anything Leslie recommended today, any of her food reporting, including her reporting on pies, check out our website. And we'll link all our recommendations in the show notes. Thank you so much for listening. Appreciate you. Bye-bye.
Kyra: 再见。
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>> Bye.
《线材切割秀》由罗西·加伦担任执行制片人,阿比盖尔·基尔担任制片人。马蒂·马齐耶洛和尼克·皮特曼提供工程支持。本期节目由凯瑟琳·安德森混音。原创音乐由丹·鲍威尔、玛丽安·洛萨诺、艾丽西亚·比图、凯瑟琳·安德森、罗文·尼米斯托和黛安·王创作。克利夫·利维是《线材切割》的副出版人和总经理。本·弗曼是《线材切割》的主编。我是凯拉·布莱克威尔。我是克里斯汀·西雷特。我是罗西·加勒特。
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The Wire Cutter Show is executive produced by Rosie Garin and produced by Abigail Keel. Engineering support from Mattie Maziello and Nick Pitman. Today's episode was mixed by Katherine Anderson. Original music by Dan Powell, Marian Lozano, Alicia Bitu, Catherine Anderson, Rowan Nimisto, and Diane Wong. Cliff Levy is Wire Cutter's deputy publisher and general manager. Ben Fman is Wire Cutters editorin chief. I'm Kyra Blackwell. I'm Christine Sirette. and I'm Rosie Garrett.
Kyra: 感谢收听。
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>> Thanks for listening.
Christine: 你知道,只要我们喜欢就好。
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>> You know, whatever floats our boat.
Kyra: 是的,我们不在这里评判。走开,天后。
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>> Yeah, we're not here to judge. Hop off, diva.
📌 文中提及的人物和组织
人物: Kyra Blackwell, Rosie Garren
公司/组织: Wire Cutter, New York Times Podcasts, OXO