为什么我们对“蛋白质”如此痴迷?(拆解饮食趋势背后的心理与权力) TVO Today 2026-05-27

社交媒体驱动的饮食恐慌与身体优化

现代社会中,健康焦虑似乎成为了一种常态,社交媒体极大地放大了这种情绪。无论是营养建议的推陈出新,还是各类健康趋势的层出不穷,其背后都隐藏着一套逻辑:我们将身体视为待维护的“机器”,致力于通过精准的营养摄入来实现所谓的“最优化”。专家萨曼莎·金(Samantha King)强调,这种健康焦虑并非社交媒体出现后才产生的,媒体在过去几十年中一直通过玩弄人们对健康、强壮和衰老的恐惧来变现。然而,在面对全球供应链不稳定、气候变化带来的危机等无法掌控的因素时,通过严格控制摄入的营养物质,人们获得了一种虚假的控制感。这就是为什么在疫情期间,关于蛋白质的讨论急剧升温——我们无法掌控世界,但可以掌控摄入的营养。

这种叙事方式将普通人包装成“精英运动员”,诱导人们追求那种为了提升运动表现的“最佳营养组合”。然而,大多数人并非职业运动员,这种将饮食还原为单一营养成分摄入的倾向,实际上严重扭曲了我们与食物的关系,削弱了食物作为快乐源泉和社群连接纽带的本质作用。

Original English Source

I don't know about you, but it feels like every month there is a new food trend, a new advice on what to eat, what to avoid, what's popular. So why are we always on the lookout for the next big thing? Samantha King is a professor and director of the School of Kinesiology and Health Studies at Queen's University.

It's certainly an important factor in terms of reaching really broad and diverse demographics in a very constant way. But it's not the only factor. And, you know, media has been monetizing and indeed playing on fears about our health and our strength and aging for decades before we had social media. So I try to emphasize that it's important and it's especially important in moments of uncertainty and crisis. I don't think it's a coincidence that protein talk really intensified during the pandemic. For instance, you know, we can't control global supply chains or, you know, the climate changes that might produce pandemics, but we can measure and fixate on the nutrients we're ingesting. And social media really helps with that.

Influencers arguably have a wider reach than health professionals, and some may even argue that they have the trust of many people online. What are your concerns with influencers offering health advice to people?

Some influencers are, in fact, medical doctors and nutritionists, right? So there isn't really a clear dividing line. And I think that's one of the things that can produce confusion and information, contradiction and overload. For me, the concern is less about the information. If one has a medical condition, one's doctor, if one is fortunate enough to have a doctor, is the person who's going to be able to help you manage your diet. For me, it's more about the way that this constant encouragement and advice to focus on our diets in a way that treats our bodies as, you know, machines to be tinkered with and fixed really diminishes our relationship to food as a source of pleasure and community. And that influence is really strong. I mean, there's a way in which we're all acting as if we're elite athletes, right? For whom finding the optimum diet combination is going to increase performance. But most of us are not in that category, right? We're just living our lives. And it's really distorted our relationship to food.

蛋白质迷信的产业根源与社会叙事

为什么大家都在谈论蛋白质?这种痴迷有着深远的历史根源。其起源可追溯至19世纪,德国科学家巴伦·冯·李比希(Baron von Liebig)首次定义了营养成分并发明了蛋白质补充剂。但在现代,这种迷信被产业化极大地放大了。例如,二战后乳制品工业的工业化带来了大量的乳清副产品,这些副产品本是奶酪生产中的废料,随意排放会对环境造成严重污染。乳制品行业在经历多年研究后,找到了将乳清脱水并制成一种口感尚可、易于消化的蛋白质粉的方法,从而创造出了一个巨大的市场。

为了维持这个市场的增长,行业不仅瞄准了精英运动员和健美运动员,还通过持续的营销叙事,将蛋白质与“健康皮肤”、“饱腹感”、“大脑潜能”乃至“绝经期管理”等几乎所有健康问题挂钩,将其包装成万能的“解决方案”。蛋白质非常具有“延展性”,它没有脂肪或碳水化合物那样的负面标签,这使得它能够轻松渗透进各种人口统计学群体中。

Original English Source

Everywhere I go, whether it's a coffee shop, a restaurant, or even at my family dinner with my extended family, we are talking about protein. And I need to understand why is everyone talking about protein?

That is a great question. There are a number of reasons. You know, one thing to say is that our obsession with protein actually goes back to the 19th century, when it was first identified as a category of nutrition and the first protein booster, if not influencer, was a 19th century German scientist by the name of Baron von Liebig, who invented the first protein supplement. So there is a long history, but there's also a shorter history because some of us, if we're old enough to remember, will remember that carbs were the charismatic nutrient of the 1970s and then during the 80s and 90s, we slowly saw a shift towards protein as the fixation. And that's really intensified in the last ten or so years. And it comes from a number of places.

I mean, one is the industry. We tell the story. And in our book about the excess of whey that was created as a result of the industrialization of the dairy industry in the mid-20th century. And farmers needed something to do with all this toxic by-product of cheese production. And we're dumping it into rivers and streams. And it was killing the algae, and that was choking the fish that was presenting huge environmental problems. And they figured eventually, after many years of experimentation to a way to dehydrate whey and create a palatable, palatable and digestible product. And that's the protein powder that is most popular today. If you see a protein fortified product on the shelves in the grocery store that almost certainly has whey in it. And so they needed to create a market for that. And elite athletes and bodybuilders were certainly one such market. But that's not enough, right? You have to keep growing and building your market and that's how we've now seen the protein fixation spread across demographic groups.

And then the other part of it is the association with protein, with strength, with muscle growth, but increasingly with, you know, healthy skin and being full and brain power and menopause, you know, there isn't a problem to which protein hasn't been offered as a solution. And it's very malleable in that way. It doesn't have the same negative connotation that, say, fats or carbs have. There's no such thing really as bad protein where there is or too much protein, right? Where that isn't true of fats or carbs.

走出营养焦虑:回归饮食的本真与连接

当我们需要从社会学角度审视这些趋势时,一个核心问题是:我们真的缺乏蛋白质吗?事实上,绝大多数加拿大人(甚至近100%)通过官方指南摄取的蛋白质已经绰绰有余。蛋白质存在于从生菜到土豆的几乎所有食物中,只要摄入足够的卡路里,蛋白质通常不是问题。只有极少数严重疾病患者才可能需要额外补充,但这并不是大众普遍存在的健康问题。

对于那些陷入饮食趋势(如 TikTok 上热议的纤维摄入)的个体,该如何跳出这种思维模式?萨曼莎·金引用了迈克尔·波伦(Michael Pollan)的简洁口诀:“吃食物。不过量。多吃植物(Eat food. Not too much, mostly plants.)”。虽然作为个体很难抵挡这种意识形态的诱惑,但我们应该意识到这种将身体视为生化实验或待修理马达的饮食观是有害的。我们应当将焦点转移到烹饪、采购、饮食以及通过食物建立社群关系带来的乐趣上。庆祝食物本身的丰富性,而非将其仅仅视为营养成分的堆砌,是摆脱这种还原论且具有破坏性的饮食观的最有效方式。

Original English Source

I want to move on to another trend that we're seeing, but very quickly as a society, when it comes to protein, are we actually deficient in protein or are we actually consuming a decent amount already?

Close to 100% of Canadians are eating enough protein according to the official guidelines. So we're getting enough. Protein is in everything from lettuce to potatoes. And if you're getting enough nutrients overall, if you're getting enough calories, you're getting enough protein. The only exceptions to that are people who are seriously ill or frail, who may be required to take additional protein, but they are in the tiny minority of people in Canada. We don't need this protein, this extra protein that we're being encouraged to consume.

Okay, well, let's talk about another macronutrient that's getting its attention, fibre. I will admit, I myself might be looking at how I can possibly get more fibre in my diet. I might not be quote unquote fibre maxing, but help us understand why do we become so obsessed with food trends?

Yeah, that's it's a great question. And again, it predates the present moment. And I think it really has to do with the way we are encouraged and taught to think about our bodies, which is that we're responsible for them. No one else is going to save you, right? I mean, we're we have a collapsing health care system. We have corporations who have a real interest in selling products that are have a kind of automatic association with health, even if they're full of sugar and, you know, highly processed foods, there's a veneer of health that's attached to them. So there's a political motivation to ask people to look after themselves. There's a corporate motivation and we're, you know, a good person in our society as a person who tries to optimize the health, right? Not just maintain it, but measure it and make it most efficient and productive, right? That's what we're supposed to be doing with our bodies. And these magic bullets that come along are extremely appealing.

Right. And I think the fibre one is really interesting. I'm being asked a lot about fibre in the last few weeks. I think it's a trend that began on TikTok. And you know, my immediate response, because I too, I'm subject to these trends. None of us can step outside of this ideology as much as we try to. I mean, I'm a professional diet skeptic and I still can't look at my dinner without thinking about the nutrients in it. You know, my kind of knee jerk reaction is to say, okay, you know, fibre is that we actually don't get enough fibre. The research suggests, you know, there are health issues that we're facing as a society that are linked to not enough fibre in our diet. So maybe it's not as problematic as the protein obsession. On the other hand, my research ahead says, you know, again, with searching for this magic bullet, with searching for this quick fix, will lurching from one trend to another. And this is it's not this is not going to save us. There is no single nutrient that is the solution to optimal health.

All right. I want to talk sort of demographics. Historically, diet culture has targeted women. Is that the case with these trends that we're seeing now?

I do think that's one of the really interesting shifts. I mean, certainly with Lookmaxxing and optimization trends in general, men are huge part of that. One of the things that I've written about is the muscular manosphere and the absolute centrality of protein and other supplement sales to the economy of the manosphere, the way that influences male influencers, touting certain kinds of masculinity are able to do what they do, are able to make a living from that. So that's really shifted. And I think the kind of really critical relationship to the body that women have been taught to take up for decades and centuries is intensifying for men. And we can see this in the research and we can see it probably in our everyday lives, too, that now the focus, the particular goals of the diet might be different. The particular rationale for focusing on one particular way of eating versus another could be gendered. It's certainly, you know, related to age to some extent, food cultures. But that's also one of the damaging things I think about these trends is that they're global, right? And they kind of override the beautiful differences in diet that makes the world an interesting and pleasurable place to live in.

Well, you talk about that global reach and how effective and attractive it is to some people. If there is someone who has fallen for these diet trends, how do they cut through the noise? What advice do you have for people?

Yeah. So, you know, Michael Pollan, who's a famous writer and food critic, has a nice saying, which is, eat food. Not too much, mostly plants. And I think that, as much as it's really hard as one individual person to resist these trends, I really like that mantra. We know that most of us are getting the food that we need, and at the same time that we see this absolute fixation on the components that make up our diet, this treating the body as a biochemical experiment or a motor car to be tinkered with. We also see a lot of pleasure in cooking and procuring food and eating and communicating about it and building relationships through it. And I think the more that we can focus on that and celebrate that approach, the easier it will be to move away from this really reductive and I think, damaging approach.

Samantha, I really appreciate you taking the time, chatting with us on The Rundown today. Thank you so much for your insights.

Thank you. It was a pleasure talking with you.

📌 文中提及的人物和组织

人物: Samantha King

公司/组织: Queen's University

关键字: diet-trends protein-obsession body-optimization social-media-influence health-anxiety