在东京高円寺,用荒诞构建自由的社区
我叫松本哉。今天在日本东京的高円寺,我经营着三家小店:一家回收店、一家居酒屋和一家青年旅舍。它们都不赚钱,甚至可以说是“很傻”。但我做这些事,并非为了盈利——而是想创造一个能让人们自由相遇、嬉闹和交流的空间。在这样一个越来越冷漠、规训森严的世界里,我们选择用荒诞来抵抗。
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Hello. Right now, the cherry blossoms in Tokyo are very beautiful. So until a few days before coming to China, I went to the park every day to see them. And I drank sake with friends until morning. So now I’ve caught a bit of a cold. Sorry. My name is Matsumoto Zai. My Chinese isn’t very good, so today I’ll speak in Japanese. Sorry. Fortunately, I found a wonderful interpreter today, so I can speak freely and comfortably.
从法政大学的“荒诞运动”开始
我上大学时,进入了东京的法政大学。那是一所极度混乱、充满反主流文化的学校:深夜开放,学生在校园里开派对、搞乐队演出、发动大规模示威,甚至和校方人员发生冲突。而我来自东京东部一个老旧、衰败的下町——那里只有老人和孩子,年轻人一毕业就必须找工作。这种“反叛文化”对我来说是第一次接触,震惊极了。
后来学校计划拆除旧建筑、重建“现代化校园”,实则全面收紧规则:禁止夜间出入、取消自由活动空间,把大学变成“求职预备校”。这让我愤怒。但当时的学运太严肃了,人人都像在参加葬礼。
于是我和朋友成立了“法政贫乏臭守护会”——一个彻头彻尾的荒诞组织。我们的口号是:“我们不是为了上课和找工作才来这里的!” 我们在校园中央支起大锅,煮着酒菜。下课后,学生们路过时我们喊:“来吃点吧?” 职员、教授也忍不住加入。一场饭局演变成跨阶层的聚会,甚至有老师站出来支持我们。
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The first trigger was when I entered university. I went to Hosei University in Tokyo, which is a crazy university full of strange people. It’s open 24 hours; people hold drinking parties on campus at night, start band live performances spontaneously, and there was a very active student movement — massive demonstrations that clashed with university staff. I myself come from an old neighborhood in eastern Tokyo, which was like a rural village — only elderly people and children lived there; once you grow up, you immediately get a job. So encountering this kind of counter-culture was my first experience — I was completely shocked.
我们还曾把“臭鱼”(クサヤ)——一种气味恐怖到能让人呕吐的腌鱼——放在校方关闭的窗口前点燃。浓烈恶臭逼得职员们冲出来抗议,我们趁机要求重启对话。虽然最终夜校被关闭了,但这场荒诞的“气味战争”却让无数人记住了我们。
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Another thing I want to introduce is kusaya — a fish with an incredibly horrible stench. We used it as a weapon in our struggle. There was a night division at the university, which cost very little and made almost no profit for the school. The administration planned to shut it down, leading to serious conflict with students. When they completely cut off negotiations and closed all communication channels, we said: “Alright, leave it to us.” We brought the kusaya, lit a fire under it — the smell became unbearable. We placed it right in front of the closed windows, brought out giant pots, opened all the university windows, and let it stink to high heaven. The staff came rushing out shouting, “Ugh! This smell is unbearable!” We grabbed them and said: “Now you have to talk with us.” In the end, they lost — the night division was abolished.
高円寺:废墟中的自由空间
毕业后,我成了“町人”——不再是学生,而是街坊。2000年前后,日本经济崩盘,“失去的十年”开始了。年轻人找不到工作,社会陷入停滞。但正因如此,我们这一代人没有选择“被雇佣”,而是开始自己创造空间:开小店、做艺术、办活动。
高円寺成为我们的据点。它曾是东京边缘的便宜区域,聚集了艺术家、音乐人和无所事事的年轻人。我们在这里开了一家叫“素人的乱”的回收店——名字意思是:“一群不知道自己在干什么的家伙”。
这不是普通的商店。它不是为了卖东西,而是为了连接人:顾客来修旧物、聊人生;邻居们带着酒来喝,有人把买过的手表再卖回店里,又买回去——循环往复。我们成了朋友。
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So I opened a recycling shop, named "Ran of the Amateurs" — meaning people who do things without knowing what they're doing. Why did I open a recycling shop? First, the modern world is completely obsessed with profit — capitalism has gone too far. We produce massive amounts of goods, consume them massively, and throw them away massively. I wanted to resist that. Also, a recycling shop isn’t like a convenience store where you just exchange money for goods — it’s about selling, buying, repairing, talking with customers: “What is this?” You visit their homes. It’s a job full of human connections. And recycling shops aren’t for people who come from far away — they’re used by locals, so it’s great for becoming friends with neighbors.
后来,我开了居酒屋“なんとかバー”——每天换一个店主。今天是蒙古音乐人,明天是年轻女孩,后天是退休老人。不同阶层、国籍的人在同一个空间喝酒、聊天——这才是真正的“社区”。
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And then, when I was thinking about this, there was a small bar run by an old lady just three minutes away on the same street — where local elderly people often went. One day she said, “I’m old and my health is declining — I think I’ll close it. Is anyone interested?” At the time, I was completely drunk and mistakenly said: “I’ll do it!” The neighbors were thrilled: “If you’re doing it, that’s great! Go ahead!” I went home and slept. The next morning I woke up in horror: “Oh no, I promised to rent the place!” I panicked. I asked friends and neighbors: “Can anyone take over? I can’t do it.” But everyone said, “I’m busy with my job, but I can help once a month.” Thirty people volunteered. So we decided: “Let’s do a daily rotating landlord system!” — that’s the “Nantoka Bar.” Every day has a completely different atmosphere. One day it’s all musicians, the next day artists, then young girls, then old men — even a Mongolian came and ran it for one day. The menu was in Mongolian, completely incomprehensible. It’s incredible how much people from different backgrounds don’t interact — but here, they mix completely.
中国招待所的启示:真实比礼貌更重要
我在1994年第一次去中国旅行,住的是最便宜的招待所。前台的老头在睡觉;孩子在打游戏;你问“能住吗?”,他一脸不耐烦,扔给你钥匙:“20块,那边。”房间漏雨,你去说,他丢给你五条毛巾和一个桶:“你自己想办法。” 但第二天,他会告诉你哪家面馆最好吃。
这种“不装”的真实感,比日本便利店的假笑更珍贵。
所以我的青年旅舍也照此模式:没有欢迎语,没有微笑服务。我们不宣传给普通游客——只靠“朋友的朋友”介绍来的、真正懂的人。他们来了,我们就带他们去喝酒、吃地道饭——建立真实的关系,而不是消费关系。
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For guesthouses, my inspiration came from China. I started going to China alone on poor trips back in 1994 when I entered university. Back then, when you needed to stay overnight, you’d go to places labeled “guesthouse” or “lodging,” which were dirt cheap. Those places were extremely casual — when you entered the front desk, there’d be an old man sleeping. A kid would be playing games nonstop. Even if you apologized, they wouldn’t care at all. So because the old man was sleeping, I’d say: “Excuse me, can I stay here?” He’d get up reluctantly: “Huh? What now?” And he’d just throw you a key: “Yes, 20 yuan. Over there.” When I went to the room, it leaked rain — so I went back and told him: “It’s leaking.” He said, “Well, whatever,” threw five towels and a bucket at me: “Fix it yourself.” But I was deeply moved. I thought, “Wow — this is what Chinese guesthouses are like.” In Japan, when you go to such places, they say “Welcome!” with a smile — but I hate that. It feels fake. Even if they’re smiling, you have no idea what they’re really thinking. But in China, with the old man sleeping at the desk, you know: “Ah, he doesn’t want to work.” And that honesty moved me. So when I opened my guesthouse, I wanted it to be like that — low quality, but real. If you come to Japan, definitely don’t stay here! But when guests come, we take them out for drinks. We tell them: “That restaurant over there is delicious.” We value connection — not service.
荒诞的抵抗:高円寺的日常抗议
我们在高円寺持续举办“反再开发”游行。主题永远是:“别把街道变干净!”——因为越“整洁”,就越压抑,越禁止自由。我们不是举标语、喊口号,而是直接在街头表演:音乐家演奏、艺术家展示作品、居民推着移动酒摊边走边喝——把日常生活变成抗议行为。
警察一开始很严厉:“不许占道!”但几年后,他们居然也来喝酒了,还问:“下次什么时候办?”——荒诞最终驯服了权力。
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And then, since opening my shop in Koenji, I’ve also been doing demonstrations. The theme is basically always about rent being too high or “don’t make the town pretty.” Basically, it’s resistance against the town becoming more polished, more restrictive, and unable to do anything. The most important theme now is opposing Koenji’s redevelopment plan — next month, May 11th, there will be another demonstration in Koenji. If you’re interested, please come play and join us! The redevelopment plan is to build big roads and commercial buildings in this old neighborhood, bringing in endless boring chain stores. That’s not what we want — we want a town where free people can freely play. Musicians perform on truck stages, artists bring strange artworks, regular drinkers enjoy their sake in the streets — it’s like a festival. The police were initially strict: “Don’t cross this line!” But gradually, they started enjoying it — saying things like, “This is kind of fun,” or “I want some sake too!” Eventually they asked: “When’s the next one?” Japan’s police are probably the weakest in the world — so don’t be afraid of them when you come to Japan.
1000个邻居:真实连接胜过虚拟社交
二十年过去,高円寺的居民早已不只是“顾客”——他们是朋友。我认识的人超过1000个,每天走路都会有人打招呼:“嘿,松本!” 在社交媒体时代,我们以为“连接”就是点赞和转发。但真正的连接是:你看见杂货店的漂亮姐姐在朋克现场尖叫,也看到严肃的政治家第二天在车站吐得满地都是——你看见了全部的他,依然选择和他做朋友。
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And now, with the passage of 20 years in Koenji, everyone here has become an acquaintance. No matter what — we’ve been doing this stuff for so long. But at first, there was excitement among young people doing wild things — but after 20 years? Not so much. Now, you make friends with adults too. I’ve become an old man myself — and people who used to work at regular companies, or just ordinary workers in Koenji — they’ve all become connected. Koenji isn’t even that big a town, so if you walk or ride your bike around — you just keep seeing people saying “Hi! Hi!” Now, if I think about it: how many acquaintances do I have in Koenji? Probably over a thousand. The world today is mostly about online connections — we get to know people through the internet. But I really wonder: Is that okay? The internet only shows your best side; real connection is very rare. But when you know people in the neighborhood — you know them fully, including their messy parts. That’s what makes friendship real.
50岁后,我们不是退休,是“老人决死队”
去年我满五十岁。日本社会正疯狂鼓吹“百岁人生”、“延长退休”。但我不接受:我不想为了资本而活到死。
于是我成立了“老人决死队”——五十岁以上的人,穿上传统和服,在街上闲逛、喝酒、闹事。我们拒绝“体面地老去”,选择荒诞地活着。
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Last year, I turned fifty — so I started a new group called the “Old Man Suicide Squad.” We make traditional Japanese clothing and walk around in it. The idea is: everyone who turns fifty must wear this outfit and wander around — because I think it’s common everywhere to do wild things when you’re young, but many people suddenly become serious after growing up — they get a job, buy a house and car, start a family — and give up on their wildness. But we’re not giving it up! We made this outfit as a commitment to never stop being crazy. Japan is becoming an aging society — there are so few working people, and young people are suffering terribly. So the government and economy keep saying: “It’s a 100-year life! Seniors should work!” But we say: “No, we’re not working anymore. We’ll just do things carelessly.” China will soon face aging too — so if you turn 50, please join us anytime!
小事,就是对抗世界的武器
我常问:你愿不愿意“迟到30分钟也不会被骂”?你愿不愿“午休时喝一杯啤酒没人管”?
这些小事,才是真正的革命。我们不等“未来变好”,而是现在就做——哪怕只是改变一个商店的营业时间表,说:“今天大概70%会开门。”让系统失灵,让生活真实。
资本的狂热正在崩塌——越来越多人发现:拼命工作也不会致富,反而更穷。而我们选择建立自己的小世界——在高円寺,在东京,在中国,只要你愿意做一个“大笨蛋”——我们欢迎你。
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So now, I think the world is not necessarily a good place — but most people want it to become better. And I think so too. But in Japan, many people still say: “Let’s work hard now for a better future someday.” But after 20 or 30 years of Japan’s economic decline, we realize: maybe the world won’t get better. So I think it’s better to do small things we can do right now — not wait for the future. For example, I think: wouldn’t you like it if being 30 minutes late wasn’t scolded? Or if drinking one beer during lunch was okay? Let’s do these little things. Here’s an example: our recycling shop has no fixed hours — we just post a sign saying “Open.” Twelve is borderline; around one, it opens. By two, definitely open. At night, usually until eight — but after that? Friends might come over, or I might get lazy and close early. So if someone asks: “Is the shop open tomorrow at one?” I say, “About 70% chance.” So doing everything you can — even small things — I think this works. Everyone has different thoughts, but if everyone does just one thing they really want — slowly, the world will change. Even small things matter. Then the profit-obsessed society shrinks slowly; people who love rigid control feel more confined — and that’s good. Let them become slaves to capitalists — go enjoy making money! We’re not doing that. I think it’s more fun when people like us increase.
结语:愿世界充满“大笨蛋”
高円寺不是景点,而是一个活的社区实验场。这里没有“正确的生活方式”,只有无数个荒诞却真实的灵魂在彼此照亮。
如果你厌倦了被系统规训、被算法控制、被消费主义绑架——欢迎来高円寺。你不需要是专家,只需要是个“愿意做傻事的人”。
我们在这里等你——一起喝一杯,做个大笨蛋。
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So I think, finally — the world is full of people obsessed with making money. But I believe this system has begun to end. In the past, if you worked hard and chased money, you could become moderately rich. But now? Even if you work hard, you don’t get rich — and if you fail, you become poorer. The system is reaching its limits globally. Look at Donald Trump — he’s completely lost it! If you go to the world like that, it’s dangerous. So we must build our own society — visibly, concretely — right here, and live like this. That’s incredibly important now. So please buy a ticket to Koenji — come visit us! Our crazy people in Koenji welcome you with open arms. I’ll bring all the crazy people from Koenji to you — and if crazy fools from every country and region in the world become friends, become drinking buddies — I believe a wonderful world will come. So let’s keep doing things this way.
📌 文中提及的人物和组织
媒体/书籍: The Last Economy