在纽约市卖披萨:餐饮业的经济学与生存挑战 Bloomberg Podcasts 2025-08-04

纽约披萨的悖论:饱和市场与创业勇气

Joe Weisenthal: 大家好,欢迎收听OddLots播客的又一期节目。我是Joe Weisenthal。

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Hello and welcome to another episode of the OddLots podcast. I'm Joe Weisenthal

Tracy Alloway: 我是Tracy Alloway。

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and I'm Tracy Aloway.

Joe Weisenthal: 我们正在吃披萨。我们是在7月8日录制这期节目,我们已经连续录制了好几期,没有时间吃午饭。所以,我也要吃一口披萨。

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We are eating pizza. We are recording this July 8th and we've done backto backtoback episodes and we haven't had time for lunch. So I too am going to eat this bite of pizza.

Tracy Alloway: 真的很好吃。

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It's really good.

Joe Weisenthal: 我们在录音室里吃着非常美味的披萨。真的很好吃。大家可能在想发生了什么,为什么我们……等等。我先咽下食物。

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We're eating really good pizza in the studio. It's really good. People are probably wondering what's going on why we're All right. One second. I'm going to swallow my food.

但我发誓我们不会一直发出吃披萨的声音。也许我们会……

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But I swear we're not going to be sounding like we're eating pizza the entire time. Maybe we'll

Tracy Alloway: 你自己说吧。

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speak for yourself.

Joe Weisenthal: 好的,Tracy。几个月前,我注意到东村(East Village: 纽约市曼哈顿区的一个街区)开了一家新的披萨店。我当时想,什么样的人会看着东村,然后觉得这个社区需要一家新的披萨店?这个问题困扰了我很久。

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Okay, Tracy. A few months ago, I noticed a new pizza restaurant had opened up in the East Village. And I thought to myself, what kind of person looks at the East Village and thinks, you know what, this neighborhood needs a new pizza restaurant? And I've always been sort of I've been vexed by that question for a long time.

Tracy Alloway: 等等,这是一个饱和的市场。但另一方面,在纽约卖披萨不是十拿九稳吗?每个人都喜欢披萨。我们来这里就是为了吃披萨,不是吗?

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Wait, it's a saturated market. But on the other hand, isn't like pizza in New York a slam dunk? Everyone loves pizza. We come here for pizza, don't we?

Joe Weisenthal: 我想这是真的。只是东村似乎有很多披萨店,而开一家新的披萨店需要大量的资本投入。有烤箱,有风险,有品牌,有所有这些东西。我没有勇气开一家新的披萨店。我只会认为市场已经饱和。也许你更乐观,更有创业精神。卖披萨不会错的。

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I guess that's true. It just seems like there there is a lot of pizza in the East Village and opening up a new pizza place. It's very capital intensive. There's the stoves, there's the risk, there's the brand, there's all these things. I would not have the guts to open up a new pizza restaurant. I would just assume that the market I would just take the it's saturated view. Maybe you have the more maybe you would be the more o optimistic and entrepreneurial. You can't go wrong with pizza.

Tracy Alloway: 是的,没错。这是纽约市。我想我能理解这两种观点。但我确实觉得很引人注目,它当然是你在纽约市地面上看到的最普遍的生意之一,这是一个伟大的披萨城市。我对披萨生意一无所知。

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Yeah, you can't. It's New York City. I guess I could see it both ways. But I did find it striking and it is of course one of the most ubiquitous businesses that you see at the ground level in New York City, great pizza city. And I don't really know anything about the business of pizza.

Joe Weisenthal: 不。我们刚刚采访了一家正在进军披萨生意的面包店。所以这是一个很好的过渡,也是对话的自然演变。

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No. And we just spoke to a bakery business that is getting into the pizza business. So this is a really nice segue and natural evolution of the conversation.

Tracy Alloway: 是的。我想知道在纽约市卖一片披萨如何赚钱。我真的很兴奋。我们今天在录音室里有三位完美的嘉宾。他们给我们带来了披萨。所以,我们必须先声明一下,我们正在吃他们带来的披萨。所以,如果你听这期节目,觉得我们被“痛苦地收买”了或者什么的,那就是因为我吃了披萨。

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Yeah. I want to know how you make money selling a slice of pizza in New York City. I'm really excited. We actually have three perfect guests in the studio today. They brought us pizza. So, there is a disclosure that we have to get out of the way, which we are eating the pizza that they brought us. So, if you listen to this episode and you think like we've been like, you know, painfully bought off or whatever, then this then that's why it's because I had some pizza. But, it's also an interesting one because a this pizzeria is right by Bloomberg. So, that's another excuse for why we're doing this one.

但这也是一个有趣的话题,因为这家披萨店就在彭博社旁边。所以这是我们做这期节目的另一个理由。而且,这家餐厅的两位老板还拥有一家彭博社附近的熟食店或咖啡馆,我经常去那里吃午饭,就是牛津咖啡馆(Oxford Cafe)。老实说,我不太喜欢午饭吃披萨。它有点重,但我喜欢切碎的沙拉。在我看来,离彭博社很近的牛津咖啡馆是整个城市里最好的切碎沙拉店,或者说是我去过的最好的。真的。所以,我对这一点很好奇,你们是如何在那里做出差异化的。所以,我只是想了解一下午餐食物,包括披萨。

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But also, two of the owners of the restaurant also own a um a deli or cafe near Bloomberg that I go to for lunch all the time. The Oxford Cafe. I don't really like eating pizza for lunch if I'm being honest. It's a little heavy, but I love a chopped salad. And the Oxford Cafe, which is very close to Bloomberg, in my opinion, is the best chopped salad operation in the entire city or that I've been to. No, for real. And so, I'm sort of curious about that, how you differentiate there. So, I just want to learn about like lunchtime food, including pizza.

Joe Weisenthal: 我们有三位嘉宾。我来介绍一下他们。我们将与James Shields交谈。他是纽约市的一位餐饮业者。他参与了多项业务,但他是Zeno's Pizza的联合创始人,该店位于52街,在第二大道和第三大道之间。然后我们还将与Zeno's的另外两位联合创始人Alex Xenopoulos和他的兄弟Evan Xenopoulos交谈,Alex Xenopoulos也拥有牛津咖啡馆。所以,他们都参与了多项业务,Evan和Alex以及牛津咖啡馆,还有James和披萨等等。我们将学习如何通过卖一片披萨来赚钱。所以,James,或者其他人,我把这个问题抛给你,James,我先从你开始。

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Let's do it. our three guests. I'm going to introduce them. We're going to be speaking with James Shields. He is a restaurant tour here in New York City. He uh involved in multiple things, but he is a co-founder of Zeno's Pizza, which is on 52nd Street between Second and Third. And then we're also going to be speaking with the other Zeno's co-founders, Alex Xenopoulos, who also owns the Oxford Cafe, and his brother Evansopoulos. So, they're all involved in multiple things, and uh Evan and Alex and Oxford and James and pizza, etc. And we are going to learn how to make money selling a slice of pizza. So, I'll throw this out, James, or anyone else, but James, I'll start with you.

当你看到52街第二大道和第三大道之间的这个位置时,你为什么认为这里有能力或有理由再开一家披萨店?

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Why did you think there was capacity or a reason when you looked at this uh location at 52nd Street between Second and Third to think, you know what, this area could use another piece of place?

James Shields: 当然。对我们来说,很明显在疫情期间,发生了一次大洗牌,许多老牌店铺都倒闭了。而中城(Midtown: 纽约市曼哈顿区中部)特别是52街和那个走廊区域,有点像披萨荒漠。它不像东村、西村或时代广场那样,你一开店就会立即陷入激烈的竞争。所以,这对我们来说是一个“绿地”市场。我和Alex、Evan通过一位朋友偶然相遇。他们当时正在寻找人来经营他们的披萨店,他们已经在一家磨坊里开起来了。我们聊了起来,我们知道街对面有一个空置的店铺,我们立刻就一拍即合。我们觉得我们有了一个合作伙伴关系。我们要认真地干一番。我们投入一些资金,把它实现。

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Sure. I mean, for us, it was clear during the pandemic, there was a great clearing event where a bunch of, you know, established places went out of business. and Midtown specifically, that area, 52nd Street and that corridor, it was a bit of a pizza desert and it's not the same as like the East Village or the West Village or Time Square or something like that where if you open up shop, you're going to immediately be in a knife fight. So, this was a a green space for us. And, you know, me and Alex and Evan kind of had this chance meeting through a friend of ours. you know, they were looking for someone to to do something with their pizzeria, which they had established at the mill. And we got to talking and we knew a space that was right across the street, and it just immediately clicked. And we're like, we have a partnership here. We're going to make an honest go of it. Let's throw some money in here and make this happen.

披萨的商业模式:从饱和市场到高端产品

Joe Weisenthal: 好的。我的第一个问题是披萨上放菠萝。赞成还是反对?

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Okay. My first question is pineapple on pizza. Yay or nay?

James Shields: 伙计。是的。好吧。既然我一直在做披萨,我……

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Man. Yeah. Okay. So, I'm going to talk since I've been making pizza and I'm I'm

Tracy Alloway: 这是重要的事。

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This is the important stuff.

James Shields: 没错。所以,这对我来说都非常重要。所以,我接受披萨上放菠萝和火腿。这取决于类型。

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Exactly. So, this is all near and dear to my heart. So, I'm okay with pineapple and ham on pizza. It depends on the type.

如果你想把它放在那不勒斯披萨上,那是亵渎神灵。那样你的披萨制作资格证就会被吊销。但如果你把它放在纽约切片披萨或西西里披萨上,那你知道吗?你还在可以接受的范围内,我们可以放你一马。我不知道你们会怎么想,但在我康涅狄格州当地的披萨店,他们做夏威夷披萨时会在上面放樱桃。太好吃了。

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If you try to put it on Neapolitan, that's sacrilegious. And then you're going to get like you're going to get your uh your pizza making card revoked. But if you do it on like a New York slice or maybe in a Sicilian, then you know what? You're you're in okay territory and we can we can give you a pass. I don't know how you guys are going to react to this, but at my local pizza place in Connecticut, they do a Hawaiian with cherries on top of it. So good.

Alex Xenopoulos: 所以,我用索普拉萨塔(Soprasata: 一种意大利干香肠)和里科塔奶酪(Ricotta: 一种意大利乳清干酪)做过。如果你在上面淋上一些马拉斯奇诺樱桃(Maraschino cherry: 一种用糖浆浸泡的甜樱桃)汁,它就能把整个味道融合在一起,因为你既有咸味,又有甜味,还有一点点辣味。

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So, I've done it with soapada and ricotta. And if you drizzle some of that like mariscino cherry juice on it, it just ties the whole thing together cuz you get that salty, that sweet, and you get a little bit of that like heat, too.

Joe Weisenthal: 我确实觉得这个问题很有趣,因为……

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I do find that question kind of interesting because

Alex Xenopoulos: 顺便说一下,这是Alex。

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this is Alex, by the way.

Joe Weisenthal: 不,抱歉。这是Alex。因为你知道意大利人确实会吃帕尔玛火腿(Prosciutto: 一种意大利生火腿)配甜瓜,对吧?所以它确实与火腿和菠萝有相似的风味。所以你知道我一直觉得这很有趣。

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No, sorry. This is Alex. Because you know Italians do eat pudo with melon, right? So that it does have a similar profile to ham and pineapple. So you know I've always found it like an interesting kind of

Tracy Alloway: 我不知道为什么它变得如此有争议。它看起来很自然地搭配。

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I don't know why it became so controversial. It seems like a natural match.

Alex Xenopoulos: 不,有一个表情包,一个意大利人看着披萨上的菠萝,说“滚开,这都是胡说八道”,然后他看到帕尔玛火腿配甜瓜,就说“哦,美味佳肴”。

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No, there's a meme of like some Italian guy looking at a pineapple on pizza like get away that nonsense and then he sees the pushut on melon. It's like oh amazing delicacy.

Evan Xenopoulos: 是的。我个人是传统主义者。当我们合作时,我们的目标是如何做出最好的原味切片披萨,对吧?我觉得这是纽约最重要的特点之一。所以,我从来都不是一个喜欢菠萝披萨的人,但你知道,如何做出最好的原味切片披萨是我们见面时的一个主要动力,我们一直在努力解决这个问题。

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Yeah. I personally I'm a traditionalist. that just when we were like partnering up on this, our aim was how do we make the best plain slice as well, right? And that's I feel one of the most important characteristics in New York. So, I've never been a big pineapple um pizza person, but you know, how do you get to that best plain slice is kind of one that was one of our big motivating factors when we met up and you know, trying to figure that out.

Joe Weisenthal: 顺便说一下,那是Evan在说话。好的,我们来谈谈这个。所以,你们Evan和Alex,你们有其他餐厅的背景。我提到了牛津咖啡馆,我强烈推荐。当你们考虑合作并参与披萨生意时。我们已经确定这个区域是一个披萨荒漠。你们是如何考虑市场定位的,比如高端到低端,什么是最优的,以及市场存在哪些类别?

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And that was Evan speaking, by the way. All right, let's talk about that. So, you guys uh Evan and Alex, you have background in other restaurants. I mentioned the Oxford Cafe which I highly recommend. When you thought about okay you want to partner and get involved in the pizza opportunity. We've established that this area is a pizza desert. How do you think about like the sort of where in the market high-end to low-end etc is optimal and what are the categories of the market that exist?

Alex Xenopoulos: 你知道,这是一个好问题。James之前提到过,我们52街的Mill店有一个披萨区,在疫情之前,该区业务的很大一部分是餐饮服务。所以当我们考虑这个特定地点时,我们在奥密克戎变种(Omicron variant: 新冠病毒的一种变异株)出现之前就签了租约,显然之后人们重返办公室等方面存在问题。所以,我们考虑这个地点时,一部分想法是我们将有更多的餐饮服务,更高价位的交易,这将维持业务,而不是仅仅做按片销售的业务,因为后者的票价较低,需要大量的交易才能真正获得所需的销量和销售额来覆盖所有成本。我相信我们会讨论业务的各个要素。

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You know it's it's a good question. And you know one of the elements that like James mentioned earlier we had a pizza section in our place on 52nd lex the mill and you know before the pandemic a large component of that section's business was catering. So when we were looking at this specific location we signed a lease before the omocrron variant and obviously there were issues kind of with people coming back to the office afterwards and things like that. So part of the when we were looking at this location was the thinking was that we would have a lot more catering higher price point transactions that was kind of sustained the business versus doing uh solely kind of by the slice operations because that is a lower ticket price involves a lot of transactions to really get the volume and sales that you need to kind of you know cover all the costs. I'm sure we'll discuss kind of the elements of the business.

所以,我认为过去几年你看到的是,食品和饮料行业的各种成本都在上涨,经营变得更加困难。一切都变得更贵了。你依赖第三方服务,各种数字应用程序都会从你的业务中抽取几个百分点,对吧?所以,你看到纽约的披萨行业正在转型,人们试图向上游移动,提高价格点,以便能够覆盖这些开支。

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So I think what you've been seeing the last couple of years with a lot of costs across the board, you know, for food and beverage, it's become so much more difficult to operate. Everything's become more expensive. You relying on third party services, you know, different digital applications that all take a couple of points from your business, right? So, you know, you're seeing a transition in New York in terms of pizza where people are trying to go up the food chain to a higher price point to be able to kind of cover those expenses.

所以你看到很多传统的夫妻店倒闭,一美元披萨店,甚至一些声誉很好的店也都在挣扎。所以你看到一个巨大的转变,而我想说,10到15年前,你几乎从未见过披萨店倒闭。我的意思是,那真的是非常不寻常的。现在你看到很多新进入者,也有很多人退出。所以这个行业存在着以前没有的“洗牌”。披萨的价格是如何上涨的?因为我想,你知道,我喜欢披萨,但它在某些方面是一种朴实的产品,你能做的改变有限。所以,如果你想通过制作,我不知道,比如豪华披萨来收取更多的钱……

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So you're seeing a lot of kind of traditional mom and pop places close, dollar slice shops, even really good ones that had, you know, a lot of, you know, had a good reputation. You're seeing a lot of those struggle as well. So you're seeing a a big transition, whereas I'd say, you know, 10 to 15 years ago, you know, you'd almost never see a pizzeria close. I mean, it was just really, really unusual. Now you're seeing kind of a lot of new entrance, a lot of people exiting. So there's a churn that in the business that just didn't exist. How does pizza actually move up in terms of pricing? Because I imagine, you know, I love pizza, but it is in some ways a humble product and there are limited things you can do to it. So, if you're trying to charge more money for pizza by making it, I don't know, like luxury pizza,

Joe Weisenthal: 金箔和鱼子酱?你是想说这个吗?

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gold leaf, and caviar. Is that what you're trying to say?

Alex Xenopoulos: 那行得通吗?你们怎么做?

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Does that work? What do you do?

James Shields: 不,有一个范围,对吧?Zeno's在市场上的定位是高端产品,高端价格。所以,我们想走高端路线,我们也想使用市场上能找到的最好、最新鲜的优质食材,对吧?因为我们想为我们所吃的东西负责。我们想每天都吃真正好、健康、新鲜的食物,对吧?这甚至延伸到我们所经历的过程。所以,我们的面团要发酵48小时,对吧?纽约市大多数切片披萨店都是24小时。为什么会有不同呢?它让产品更健康,因为酵母本质上是在消化麸质,并软化面团,让你的胃更容易消化,对吧?所以,它不会让你感觉胃里沉甸甸的,当你吃我们的切片披萨时,你会感觉到,你知道,你离开时不会觉得“呃……”

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No, there's a window, right? And the way that Zenos is is kind of positioned within the marketplace is we're premium product, premium price. So, like we want to be on the higher end and we also want to use the best, freshest quality ingredients that you're going to find in our marketplace, right? Cuz we want to stand behind what we eat. We want to eat, you know, really good, healthy, fresh food every day, right? And that that even goes to like that facilitates the process that we go through. So, we ferment our dough for 48 hours, right? Most sliced joints in in New York City are like 24 hours. And why why is that different? Right? It makes the product a little more healthy because the yeast are essentially digesting the gluten and kind of softening the dough for your stomach to process, right? So, it's it's something that doesn't sit in your stomach, you know, and you feel that when you eat our slice, you know, you don't leave the place being like, uh, you know what I mean?

Joe Weisenthal: 这就是为什么我不知道。我以前不知道这一点。这就是为什么我通常不吃披萨,因为我不想在中午感觉沉甸甸的,但我不知道这可以通过选择更高端的产品来解决。

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This is why I don't I didn't realize this. This is why I don't really usually eat pizza cuz I don't want to feel that in the middle of the day, but I didn't realize that this could be addressed by going more pre.

James Shields: 兄弟,我问你,你现在吃了那片披萨感觉怎么样?我们开始谈话以来我已经吃了两片了。我现在感觉很好。

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Brother, let me put you on the spot. How do you feel right now after eating that slice? I I've eaten two slices since we've started talking. I feel okay right now.

Joe Weisenthal: 好的。

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All right.

Tracy Alloway: 哇。这真的……我学到了一些东西。

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Wow. This is really I learned something.

James Shields: 是的。大开眼界。对。这涉及到经济学,比如你需要额外的冷藏空间。你需要提前几天处理这些东西。所以这意味着如果你接到一个订单,你知道,24小时,你已经在流程上落后了24小时,对吧?所以,管理我们这种规模的物流是相当令人印象深刻的。

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Yeah. Eye opening. Right. And this this goes to the economics of like you need additional storage in your walk-in. You need to process this a couple days beforehand. So that means if you get an order, you know, 24 hours, you're already 24 hours behind in the process, right? So like the logistics of this is is quite impressive to manage on a scale that we do it at.

Joe Weisenthal: 还有什么会影响食材成本,无论是奶酪还是番茄酱?你们的切片披萨和一美元披萨有什么区别?

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What else makes a difference in terms of ingredient costs and whether it's cheese, whether it's tomato sauce, like what is the difference between your slice and a dollar slice?

James Shields: 是的。所以,我想说奶酪是我们最昂贵的成本中心,比肉类、比任何其他东西都贵,对吧?但你已经看到了全面的通货膨胀,而且它还与关税等因素有关。我们有意大利产品,比如罐装番茄之类的,它们确实会受到影响,但奶酪是迄今为止最大的成本中心。

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Yeah. So, I'd say cheese is the most expensive cost center that we have more than meat, more than uh any other thing, right? But you've seen inflation across the board and also like it ties into tariffs and things like that. We have, you know, Italian-based products that, you know, like canned tomatoes and that kind of thing that do get impacted, but cheese by far is the biggest cost center.

我一生中经历过最奇怪的事情之一是和一位披萨推销员聊天,我想是在坦桑尼亚,一个上门推销披萨烤箱的推销员。我从那次谈话中领悟到的一件事是,披萨烤箱真的非常非常棘手。要让它们完全正确似乎非常困难。所以我很好奇设备成本在业务中占多大比重,以及你们在初始资本投资方面必须多么谨慎。

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One of the more random experiences I have had in my life is talking to a pizza salesman in I think it was Tanzania of all places, like a door-to-d dooror pizza oven salesman. And one of the things I internalized from that conversation was pizza ovens are really, really tricky. it seems very difficult to like get them exactly right. So I'm curious how much equipment costs factor into the business and how careful you have to be about that sort of initial capital investment.

运营挑战:设备、劳动力与供应链

Evan Xenopoulos: 是的,我可以插话。我是Evan。我们实际上是在三年前的这个星期日开的餐厅。所以是三年前。但是……

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Yeah, I can jump in on that. This is Evan. So we opened the restaurant actually three years ago this Sunday. So three years ago. But

Joe Weisenthal: 加油!

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let's go.

Evan Xenopoulos: 我们当时在看设备,举个例子。我们现在的烤箱是Pizza Masters(披萨大师:一个披萨烤箱品牌)。大家都在用它。现在大家都转向电动烤箱,这在城市里绝对是一个大趋势,显然是反对燃气烤架、烤箱之类的。但我们三年前买的烤箱是32,000美元。现在,我想,是45,000美元。

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We were looking at the equipment just as an example. So our oven now it's the pizza masters. Everyone's using it. Everyone's going electric now, which is definitely a big trend in the city's obviously going against, you know, gas powered grills, ovens, and things like that. But we bought our oven 3 years ago was $32,000. It is now, I think, $45,000.

Joe Weisenthal: 哇。

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Wow.

Evan Xenopoulos: 只是举个例子,说明……

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Just just as an example of what kind of

Joe Weisenthal: 我看到一个91,000美元的。

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I see one for $91,000.

Evan Xenopoulos: 哦,那是五层烤箱。我们是三层烤箱,所以比那个少一点,但是是的。所以,你看到那个,然后就是所有额外的设备。这就是开店变得令人望而生畏的地方。我们只有一千平方英尺的餐厅。如果你开一家高级餐厅,你甚至无法想象厨房设备的成本会是多少。所以,你尽力制定商业计划,控制成本。但是,你知道,你会买到低矮的冰箱。我们的披萨切碎机成本……低矮的冰箱更靠近地面,但上面有台面。下面就是冰箱储藏空间。

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Oh, that's that's the five deck. We're at We're at a three deck, so we're a little bit less than that, but yeah. So, you're looking at that and then it's just all the extra equipment. That's where it gets daunting, you know, to open up. And we're only a thousand square foot restaurant. If you're doing like a fine dining restaurant, you can even imagine, you know, what what the kitchen equipment's going to. And yeah, so you're trying your best to, you know, make a business plan, keep your costs in order. But, you know, you're getting low fridges. Uh our pizza shredder cost low fridge lower to the ground, but you have a counter on top of it. Underneath there's just fridge storage.

Alex Xenopoulos: 举个例子,我们的切碎机花了5,000美元。所以你可以看到所有这些小东西不断地增加到业务中,不断地增加,你试图尽快开餐厅。我们在施工期间遇到了一个小插曲,我们需要一个烟雾净化器(smoke hog: 一种空气净化设备,用于去除厨房油烟),它是一种通风沉淀器,我们的烟雾净化器缺货了,我们因此延迟了4个月,只是为了等待一件我们没有就无法开业的设备。

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Just as an example, our shredder costs $5,000. So you can see how all these little things you keep adding into the business just keep adding and adding and adding and you're trying to get the restaurant open as fast as possible. We had a hiccup during our construction is we needed a smoke hog which is the ventilation precipitator and ours got like backordered and we got delayed 4 months just waiting for one piece of equipment which we could not open our business without.

Joe Weisenthal: 那不是《熊家餐馆》(The Bear: 一部关于餐厅的电视剧)某一集的剧情吗?是关于通风设备的问题,对吧?我确定是。第二季《熊家餐馆》完美地展现了他们建造餐厅时的混乱。

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Wasn't that the plot of an actual bear episode? It was something with the ventilator, right? I'm sure it was. The Bear season two was perfect when they were building out that restaurant and the chaos as you're going through it. Um,

Alex Xenopoulos: 是的,Alex,你继续。你之前提到过,当你考虑一家餐厅和它的类型时……我的意思是,理想的情况是所谓的“黑铁”系统,你基本上是通过排气扇向外排气。你知道,城市对这类可以这样做的建筑物有非常具体的规定,而不是像我们现在这种情况,我们有一个沉淀器,它基本上可以清洁排出的空气,然后排到街上,对吧?所以通常情况下,如果你有开放的窗户之类的,你就不允许有正常的“黑铁”排气系统。

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and yeah, go ahead, Alex. That was you mentioned earlier kind of like when you're looking at a restaurant and the type of uh so I mean the ideal situation is what's called black iron where you're essentially exhausting out through an exhaust and you have an exhaust fan and and you know the city's very specific about those types of buildings where you can do that versus you know in this situation the type of we have a precipitator that basically cleans the exhaust air and is vented out onto the street right so typically if you have like open windows things like that you're not allowed to have normal kind of like black iron exhaust.

但在疫情期间,许多不同类型的关键设备根本不存在。你知道,甚至例如,步入式冷库。我记得在疫情期间的某个时候,人们拆掉旧餐厅,出售旧的步入式冷库,你知道,15年前的面板,只是出售,因为人们找不到它们。寻找这些设备或电气设备,你知道,断路器之类的,都从中国积压订单,这简直是一场“军备竞赛”。我知道OddLots上有一些关于这些问题的节目,但你知道,对于餐厅来说,时间就是金钱。你试图组建团队,抢在租金和其他事情之前。你知道,把这些东西整合起来简直是一场噩梦。

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But yeah, during the pandemic, a lot of different types of critical equipment were just non-existent. And you know, even for example, walk-in box. At some point, I remember during the pandemic, people were tearing down old restaurants and selling the old walk-in box just, you know, 15y old panels, you know, and just like selling it because people couldn't find them. And it was just a rat race to try to find this equipment or or also electric equipment, you know, breakers, things like that were on back order from China. And I know there's been some episodes on some of those issues on odd lots, but you know, for for restaurants where, you know, time is money. You're trying to, you know, build a team, get out ahead of, you know, the rent and things like that. And, you know, it was just a nightmare trying to pull it together.

Joe Weisenthal: 劳动力是一个多大的挑战?披萨制作的劳动力需要多高的技能?他们还需要转动面团吗?那是一种表演还是某些餐厅的实际操作?请告诉我们业务中劳动力部分的情况。

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How big of a challenge is labor and how skilled is pizza labor? Like, do they still have to twirl the dough? Like, is that a thing or is that just like for show at some restaurants? Talk to us about the labor component of the business.

James Shields: 所以,这取决于披萨的细分市场。像纽约切片披萨和西西里披萨之类的,劳动力门槛会低一点,但对我们来说仍然非常高端。我们可能会面试至少30名候选人。我们可能会试用其中10名,然后一个人可能会待3个月,另一个人可能会待两年。谁知道呢?

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So, it depends on the the segment of pizza. So like New York Slice and Sicilian and things like that, the labor bar is a little bit lower, but for us it's still very high-end. Like we'll take probably at least 30 candidates. We'll trial probably 10 of them and then one guy might stay 3 months and one guy might stay two years. Who knows?

对于燃木和燃煤烤箱,就像我在西村有一个燃木烤箱。那是一种非常精湛的产品,要找到一个真正知道自己在做什么的人,可能需要六个月的培训,然后三年才能理解,然后再五年才能真正理解。你知道,就像需要一辈子,你只是不断地学习。

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For woodfired and coal fired like like I have a woodfired that's down in the West Village. That is such an artisal product that to have a guy that actually knows what he's doing can take six months to train and then three years to understand and then another 5 years to really understand. You know, like it takes a lifetime and you're just constantly learning.

Tracy Alloway: 我其实想问你这个,但你为什么决定用这个特定的电烤箱,而不是燃煤或燃木烤箱?

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I actually wanted to ask you about this, but why did you decide to go electric with this particular oven versus coal or wood?

Evan Xenopoulos: 好问题。所以,这是我们所在大楼的规定,因为我们在一栋高层建筑里,对吧?但它也有额外的好处,就是电流更稳定,因为你是在持续供电,并且比火焰更稳定地加热产品,火焰的温度可能会波动。所以,我们的烤箱更像一辆特斯拉(Tesla: 一家电动汽车和清洁能源公司),而不是一个真正的烤箱。它里面有很多电子设备。我们亲眼看到了这一点,当时我们把它拆开在街上,人行道上,把它拆解,通过门搬进去,因为它是一个巨大的设备,然后在空间里重新组装。那真是太令人印象深刻了。照片也很棒。

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Great question. So, it was a mandate by the building that we're in because we're in a, you know, a high-rise, right? But it also has the added benefit that the current is more consistent because you're drawing the power and you're heating the product more consistently than a flame, which might eb and flow in terms of temperature. So, our oven is more similar to like a Tesla than it is to actually like an oven. It's got a lot of electronics in it. And we saw that firsthand when we literally tore it apart on the street, the sidewalk, disassembled it, moved it through the door because it's a huge piece of equipment, and then reassembled it within the space. It was so impressive. The pictures are incredible.

Joe Weisenthal: 回到刚才的问题,假设Tracy和我想开一家披萨店。我们需要多少钱?我们实际需要多少钱,包括支付租金,以及这种运营需要多少投入?如果你说我们店,我们做了一千平方英尺。所有餐饮业者犯的最大错误就是开业后没有足够的营运资金。

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Just to z back up, let's say Tracy and I wanted to open up a pizza restaurant. How much money do we have to have? Do we realistically both in terms of like putting down money for rent, but then the full like what kind of operation is this to get into? If you're talking about ours, you know, we did a,000 square feet. The biggest mistake all restaurant tours make is they just don't have enough working capital after they open the doors.

Evan Xenopoulos: 所以,我想说,为了安全起见,你至少需要40万,但可能在50万到60万美元之间,只是为了给你额外的缓冲,因为,你知道,我从80年代开始就和我的家人在纽约经营餐厅,我从2009年开始。你可以在18个月内收回成本。现在,考虑到目前的开支,你知道,保险费自疫情前上涨了20-30%,劳动力成本,你通常需要3年的时间才能收回成本。

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So, I would say to be safe, you're looking at minimum 400,000, but probably in the 5 to 600K range just to give you that extra cushion cuz, you know, I've been working with my, you know, my family's had restaurants in New York since the 80s and I, you know, started in ' 09. You would make your payback in like 18 months. Now we're looking with the way the expenses are, you know, insurance is up 20 30% since precoid labor, you're looking at a 3year time horizon often.

而且有时候需要很长时间才能让一家店被大家知道,因为我们不是全国性的连锁店,对吧?所以我们不会自动获得媒体关注。所以,作为一个夫妻店,你知道,你通常需要更多时间来做市场推广。所以,是的,50万到60万美元对于一千平方英尺的店来说似乎是一个不错的数字。但是,是的。

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So, and it takes so long sometimes for someone cuz we're not a national, right? So, we're not getting that automatic like press. So, just as a mom and pop, you know, you often need more time to get the marketing out there. So, yeah, 500 to 600,000 seems like right a good spot for like a,000 square feet. But, yeah.

Alex Xenopoulos: 是的。这属于快速服务餐厅(QSR: Quick Serve Restaurant)领域。如果是全服务餐厅,你可能需要70万到100万美元。成本会很快上涨。

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Yeah. And this is in the QSR segment, the quick serve restaurant. If it was full service, you're looking at, you know, 700 to a million. It gets up there pretty pretty quickly.

Evan Xenopoulos: 是的,因为我的意思是,它只是更复杂。比如说,在那个空间里,你知道,显然设备和那些类型的需求,营运资金的需求更多,因为人员配置需求更昂贵,而且还有装修。现在这些日子,你知道,服务都非常昂贵,你知道,无论是电力、管道,所有这些用于建造餐厅的不同投入都变得更加昂贵,你知道,我认为现在疫情后就是这样。这些类型的服务都非常昂贵,所以你知道,对于一个……你的建造成本就更贵了,仅仅因为这个现实。

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Yeah. because I mean it's just more involved like let's say in that space you know obviously the equipment and those types of needs the working capital needs are more because the staffing needs are more expensive but also just the finishes like anything now these days you know services are so expensive you know whether it's electric plumbing like all these different inputs that go into building a restaurant are just that much more expensive and you know I think that's just kind of like the way it is now post pandemic these types of services are just very expensive so you know for a your cost of the buildout is that much more expensive just because of that reality.

Joe Weisenthal: 你们的配送是如何运作的?因为我想这可能是另一项巨大的资本投资。我们之前和面包师谈话时也提到了这一点。他指出,不仅仅是制作面包。你实际上必须把它送到顾客手中。当我想到披萨时,我想到披萨盒。我想到披萨盒直接送到我的门口,通常在午夜左右。你们实际上是如何将披萨送到顾客手中的?

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How does distribution work for you guys? Cuz I imagine this might be another big capital investment. And it's something that came up when we were speaking to the baker earlier. He pointed out that it's not just about making the bread. You actually have to deliver it to your customers. When I think about pizza, I think about pizza boxes. I think about pizza boxes coming directly to my door uh usually around midnight or something like that. How do you actually uh get the pizza out to customers?

Evan Xenopoulos: 我一直参与很多这方面的工作,但是是的,就像你必须竭尽全力,无论如何都要把它送到那里。所以,显然最好的情况是,我们真的专注于本地。我们喜欢该地区的所有办公室客户,我们一直在做很多快速配送,但是你知道,我们正在处理全市的订单,而且有时候我们会租一辆U-Haul(一家搬家和储物公司)卡车,装满披萨盒,然后送过去。

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I've kind of been involved in a lot of that, but yeah, it's like you just move heaven and earth and you just need to get it there anyway you can. So, obviously best cases, you know, we're really focusing locally. We, you know, love all the office clientele in the area and we've been doing a lot of like quick deliveries, but you know, we're looking at orders throughout the city and like there's been days where we'll rent a U-Haul and just fill it up with pizza boxes and get it down there. Yeah,

Alex Xenopoulos: 我开过我的私家车。我来自新泽西州,但有一天我开着我的私家车,我们接到了一个临时的大订单。我只是开着我的私家车穿梭于城市。所以,地铁,任何你能想到的方式。是的,这只是一种产品,我们一直在努力专注于本地,因为披萨,你离得越远,它就越失去光泽,对吧?当它被困在盒子里运输时可能会有问题,但是你知道,我们只是想办法解决,无论如何都要按时送到。

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I've brought in, you know, my personal car. I'm originally from New Jersey, but I had my personal car one day and we had like a last minute like huge order. I'm just driving through the city in my personal car, you know. So, Subways, any way you can get it. And yeah, it's just one of those products where we have been trying to focus locally cuz pizza, it does lose its luster the further away you get, right? Traveling it when it's stuck in the boxes can be an issue, but you know, we just make it work and whatever it takes to get it there on time.

Joe Weisenthal: 你们的产能限制是什么?比如说我在办公室。有人完成了一笔大交易。我说:“太棒了。今晚开派对吧。我能给你们打电话吗?”比如,“我能多快从你们那里拿到30个披萨?”

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What are your capacity constraints? Let's say I'm at the office. Someone closes a big sale. I was like, "This is great. Let's have a party tonight. Could I call you up?" Like, "How quickly could I get 30 pizzas from you?"

Evan Xenopoulos: 30个,如果你给我们三个小时,我们就能送到。是的,当然。我的意思是,我们做过。

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30 if if you give us like three hours, we'll get it there. Yeah, for sure. I mean, we've we've done that.

Joe Weisenthal: 你们一次能烤多少个披萨?以及你们已经烤好的披萨库存有多少?请告诉我们。

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And what's the most number of pizzas you can have cooking at one time? Like, and inventory of pizzas that you have already cooked. Like, talk to us through Yeah.

James Shields: 是的。我的意思是,我们有相当不错的吞吐量。所以,你知道,我们做过50到100个披萨的订单。

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Yeah. I mean, we have a pretty decent throughput. So, you know, we've done 50 to 100 pie orders. you know,

Evan Xenopoulos: 这完全取决于时间和湿度控制。你知道,我们设计面团的方式,它在再加热时非常高效,我们称之为“再加热效率”。我们能够一次性把所有披萨都送出去。我们为中城很多办公室供餐。比如,你知道,顺便向Namora(一家公司)的Jerry和BlackRock(贝莱德:一家全球性的投资管理公司)以及所有那些人致敬,你知道,我们为办公室供餐,你知道,一旦他们从我们这里订餐,就大功告成了。他们每周都会订餐,对吧?所以,我们习惯了那种吞吐量,而且就像Alex之前提到的,你知道,这是我们业务的一个功能性部分。我们非常依赖餐饮服务和办公室来维持我们在这个非常非常本地化的社区的经营。

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and it's all about timing and moisture control. You know, the way that we design the dough, you know, it's very efficient on the reheat is what we tend to call. We're able to get that all out at once. And we feed a lot of desks in Midtown. Like, you know, shout out Jerry from Namora by the way and Black Rockck and all those guys like, you know, so we're feeding the desk and you know, once they order from us, it's game over. They're weekly, right? So, we're used to that kind of, you know, throughput and it is a like Alex alluded to earlier, you know, it's a functional part of our business. We really rely on catering and, you know, the offices to really sustain us in this one very very hyper local, you know, neighborhood.

所以,说到超本地化,你们会根据特定地点定制菜单吗?还是披萨是一种普遍可运输的商品,在纽约至少可以在任何地方销售?

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So, speaking of hyper local, do you tailor the menu for that particular location or is pizza like a universal transportable good that can work basically anywhere in New York at least?

James Shields: 百分之百。你肯定会定制。所以,当我设计面团时,我考虑了很多事情,比如这是一个非常垂直的区域。所以我们限制了我们送货的街区数量,因为当你乘坐电梯上去,然后那个人回来时,这已经过去了30分钟,你知道,就像他已经走了,对吧?所以这就是为什么作为老板,我们三个人,你会看到我们在中城东区推着手推车、开着车、开着U-Haul卡车跑来跑去,我们都在尽力让这一切发生。

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100%. You definitely tailor. So, when I designed the dough, I had a lot of things in mind like this is a very vertical area. So we limit the amount of blocks we go because by the time you take an elevator up and that guy comes back, this is 30 minutes, you know, like he's gone, right? So that's why as owners, the collective three of us, you could see us running around Midtown East like in carts and cars and U-Hauls and like we're all pitching in to kind of make this all happen.

Joe Weisenthal: 但在实际菜单方面,比如披萨口味和设计呢?

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But what about in terms of the actual menu, like the pizza flavors and design?

Evan Xenopoulos: 是的。我的意思是,是的,我们避免那些在盒子里保存不好或容易失去热量的特定食物。而且,你知道,它限制了,比如你不想做鱼,对吧?你从来没有见过披萨上放鱼,对吧?这很罕见。

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Yeah. I mean, yeah, we we avoid specific items that don't hold up well in a box or lose their heat. And, you know, it limits like you don't want to do fish, right? You never do you never see fish on pizza, right? It's rare.

Tracy Alloway: 我爸爸总是点凤尾鱼披萨。太恶心了。

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My dad always ordered anchovi pizza. It was disgusting.

Evan Xenopoulos: 是的。通常是腌制的东西,而不是像,你知道,你不会在上面放海鲈鱼。

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Yeah. It's usually the cured stuff, not like, you know, you're not going to get like sea bass on there.

Joe Weisenthal: 海鲈鱼酸橘汁腌鱼(ceviche: 一种拉丁美洲菜肴,用柑橘汁腌制海鲜)披萨。

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Seabbass ceviche pizza.

Evan Xenopoulos: 是的。

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Yeah.

Tracy Alloway: 有人会做那个。你知道,他们会的。

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Someone will do that. You know, they will.

Joe Weisenthal: 我相信他们会的。我们谈到了这种前期资本成本。我们试着从另一个方向来计算。比如我买一片披萨,或者我买10片披萨。我支付的钱中有多少是投入的劳动力?有多少是原材料?有多少是你们的前期资本支出以及你们承担风险所需的利润?请告诉我你们是如何收回所有这些成本的。数学是怎样的?

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I'm sure they will. Let's, we talked about this sort of upfront capital cost. Let's try to work the math in the other direction. Like I buy a slice of pizza or I buy 10 slices of pizza. How much of what I'm paying for is the labor that went into it. How much is it the raw ingredient? And how much is it your upfront capital outlay and the profit you need to make on your risk? Like talk to me about like how you're getting paid back for all these things. What's the math there?

餐饮业经济学:成本与利润率

Evan Xenopoulos: 所以历史上一直是30-30-30-10,对吧?好的。所以30%固定成本,30%劳动力,30%食材成本,然后10%利润,对吧?这在纽约是正常的。如果你在纽约以外,你的利润会高一点,但你的销量也不会那么多。所以你可以得到……

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So historically it's been 30 30 3010, right? Okay. So 30 fixed costs, 30 labor, 30 food costs, and then 10% profit, right? That's like normal for New York. If you're outside of New York, your profit gets a little bit higher, but you're also not doing as much volume. So you can get like,

Joe Weisenthal: 你知道,我的意思是,Shake Shack(一家快餐连锁店)的数字,如果你看看他们17%的利润率。你知道,他们规模更大,可以从产品中榨取更多价值,获得更好的定价。但在纽约市,竞争更加激烈,你甚至可能只有5%的利润率,或者根本没有利润,然后你就倒闭了,对吧?

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you know, I mean, Shake Shack's numbers, if if you look at like 17% profit margin for them. You know, they're bigger, they can extract more value out of things, get better pricing. But in New York City, it's a little more cutthroat and you might even get 5% profit margins or no percent profit at all and you go out of business, right?

Tracy Alloway: 披萨店菜单上有没有特别高利润的商品或选择?比如,你知道,这个披萨上有一些X,但你真正赚钱的是Y。

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Are there items on a pizza restaurant menu or options that are particularly high margin? Like, you know, there's some X on this, but you really make your money on Y.

Evan Xenopoulos: 哦,是的。你可以有所谓的“亏本销售品”,对吧?就像你有一些东西可以吸引你到店里,比如牛排有50%的利润率,对吧?顺便说一下,当我提到30-30-10时,它在过去十年里已经改变了。现在你的劳动力成本是45%。你知道,你的食材成本是你试图通过菜单创新来节省更多钱的地方。然后你的固定成本,你知道,你也在努力限制它们。但变量成本已经飙升,对吧?比如保险费已经疯涨了。

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Oh, yeah. You could have what's called loss leaders, right? Like you have things that attract you to the place like you know stakes have a 50% margin, right? And when I said the 30 3010, by the way, it's changed in the last decade. Now your labor cost is 45%. You know, your food costs are where you're trying to save a little bit more money by getting creative with the menu items. And then your fixed cost, you know, you're trying to limit those as well. But the variables have been through the roof, right? Like the insurance has gone crazy.

Alex Xenopoulos: 是的。就……是的。唯一能吸引大多数人去披萨店的是,一般来说,你的食材成本相当不错。如果你经营得很好,你可以把它控制在接近20%,你知道,大多数餐厅,比如我们的牛津咖啡馆和类似的快速服务餐厅,你的食材成本在30%到35%之间。所以你的食材成本是一个很大的组成部分。现在在纽约,10%是租金的经验法则。现在每个人都在15%到17%的范围内。所以所有这些都在变化,你知道,你对成本结构的了解,你只是在寻找任何可能的销售方式,你知道,你试图保持上门顾客的增长,但是是的,管理它,有太多的开支需要管理,但是是的,自疫情以来发生了巨大的变化。

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Yeah. And just in terms of Yeah. The one thing that does attract most people to pizza restaurants is in general, your food cost is pretty good. Like you'll get if you're like really humming you'll you'll get it like close to 20% which is you know most restaurants like our Oxford Cafe and similar QSRS like that you're at the 30 to 35. So your food cost is the great component. It's now in New York 10% was the rule of thumb on rent. Everyone is now you know in the 15 to 17% range. So there's all these different changes and you know what you knew about you know your cost structures and you're just searching for new sales any way you can and you know you're trying to keep the walk-ins growing but yeah it's just managing it there's so many different expenses to manage but yeah there's just been a huge change since co

Joe Weisenthal: 嗯,这总是出现,餐厅业务成本增加。你们有什么杠杆可以用来降低这些成本?因为看起来你们需要雇人。大概你们需要以有竞争力的价格雇佣他们。你们有高端披萨产品,所以你们不想牺牲质量。保险,我猜,也不是那么好商量的。你们能做什么?

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well this is something that keeps coming up increased costs in the restaurant business what levers do you have to pull what levers are available to you to try to keep those costs down because it seems like you You need to hire people. Presumably, you need to hire them at a competitive rate. You have a, you know, a premium pizza product, so you don't want to sacrifice quality. Insurance, I'm guessing, is not that negotiable. Like, what can you do?

Evan Xenopoulos: 只有增长,增长,增长。你知道,这是你唯一能做的。我的意思是,最近,我从我所有的业务中都开始进行“陌生电话销售”。你知道,我一直在看建筑目录。我找到公司名称,找到电话号码,然后我就给公司打电话。老实说,我们已经获得了10到15个新的餐饮订单。所以,你只需要不断增长。就是这样。因为是的,就食材成本而言,这是一个好问题。你还需要让你的供应商诚实。你需要有一本其他供应商的名单,以便不断核对价格,因为是的,我们甚至,你知道,我一直在我们的餐厅,牛津咖啡馆和Mill。我的意思是,我们有一些供应商为我们服务了20年,我们有点停止了检查,然后突然你意识到,即使是那些忠于你的人,也会在这里那里偷偷提高一点价格。所以,你需要不断检查你的发票,并进行尽职调查,因为确保没有任何东西滑过你的眼皮是你的责任。

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It's just grow, grow, grow. You know, that's all all you can do. I mean, recently, I've I've taken on from all my businesses cold calling. You know, I've been looking at, you know, I I'll look at directories of buildings. I'm finding the company names, finding the phone numbers, and I'm just calling companies. And it's honestly, I've we've already netted like 10 to 15 new catering orders. So, you just have to keep growing. That's just that's just what it is. Cuz yeah, in terms of food costs, that's a good question. You also need to keep your purveyors honest. You need to have a book of other purveyors to constantly check pricing cuz yeah, we even, you know, I've been in our restaurants, the Oxford Cafe and the Mill. I mean, we had purveyors that had been serving us for 20 years and we kind of stopped checking and all of a sudden you realize even even people who are loyal to you are jacking up little prices here and there. So, you need to constantly be checking your invoices and doing your due diligence cuz it's on you to make sure nothing slides by you.

Alex Xenopoulos: 我要补充的另一件事是,在供应商方面面临的挑战之一是,过去10到20年,你还看到了大量的集中化。所以,能够与不同的供应商进行定价和核对也是一个挑战。疫情期间发生的一件有趣的事情是,因为一切都变得如此昂贵,你确实开始看到很多“零工”,基本上是人们开着卡车来到店后门,你知道,带来不同的产品之类的,通常能够稍微降低价格。但总的来说,特别是在供应方面,经济上存在大量的集中化,因为现在业务的性质以及法规之类的,存在大量的经济压力导致这种集中化。

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The other thing I'd add, one of the challenges on sort of the the vendors and purveyor side is that you've also seen a lot of concentration occur over the last like 10 to 20 years. So it so it's also a challenge to kind of be able to kind of price and and check with different suppliers and things like that. And one of the interesting things that happened with the pandemic though is that because everything became so expensive, you did start seeing a lot of jobbers basically people kind of pulling up in the back of the truck, you know, kind of bringing different products and things like that and often able to kind of undercut the pricing a little bit. But in general the especially on the supply side there is a lot of concentration there economically because just the nature of the business now and and the regulations and things like that there's just a lot of economic pressure that results in this concentration.

应对外部压力:监管与第三方服务

Joe Weisenthal: 你们是否使用大量第三方服务或将某些事情外包给中间商?因为这在之前的对话中也出现过,即你花更多的钱给中间商来完成事情。

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Do you use a lot of third-party services or like outsource certain things to middlemen because this again has come up in a previous conversation the idea that you're spending more on just the middle guy to get things done.

Evan Xenopoulos: 好的。所以是的,就……是的,显然最大的问题是所有第三方配送服务。你知道,你必须让它们为你服务。不幸的是,在过去一周,疫情后他们将第三方费用上限设为5%以帮助餐厅,但从8月1日起,这些费率将回到20%。所以你将支付20%的配送费,4%的交易费,然后如果你使用第三方服务,Caviar(一家高端餐饮配送服务)、GrubHub(一家在线餐饮配送平台)等进行配送,他们还会额外收取10%到15%。

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Okay. So yeah, in terms of yeah, obviously the big one I know is the all the third party delivery services. You know, that's one of those you have to make them work for you. Unfortunately, in this past week, they had capped third party fees at 5% after the pandemic to help out restaurants, but starting August 1st, those rates are coming back up to 20%. So you'll be at 20% on that, 4% on the transaction fee, and then if you're using the third party services, Caviar, GrubHub, etc. for deliveries, they charge another 10 to 15%.

Joe Weisenthal: 哇。

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Wow.

Evan Xenopoulos: 所以我看看我在第三方网站上收取的餐厅价格。我们通常比店内价格高15%。

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So I look at the prices I charge on my restaurants on my third party sites. We're 15% higher than our in-house pricing often

因为你需要它来管理这笔开支。但我甚至无法想象8月1日之后会怎么样,因为人们的价格已经很高了。是的,你需要让它发挥作用。对于披萨店,我们总是觉得我们至少自己送货。我们发现,你知道,对于披萨,你希望对它有很好的控制。一个不在你餐厅工作的人,他们只是把它看作是自己的小费。所以,你需要确保你的披萨被正确地送达。但是是的,这是最难管理的成本之一,因为配送,你显然需要纸张、塑料制品,你知道,所有出去的东西,成本都会疯涨。是的,现在如果他们又要多收15%,你知道,这真的会累积起来。所以这是我们这周一直在讨论的一件事,就是我们要提高多少价格才能应对这种冲击。

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because you need it to manage that expense. But I can't even imagine where it's going to go again August 1st cuz people's prices are already crazy. And yeah, you need to make it work. And with the pizzeria, we always felt we at least take our deliveries ourself. We find, you know, with pizza, you want like really good control of that. Someone who doesn't work at your restaurant, they're just looking at that as a tip for themselves. So, you want to make sure your pizza's being delivered correctly. But yeah, that that's one of the hardest costs to manage cuz with deliveries, you obviously paper plastic goods, you know, everything that's going out, the cost just go crazy. And yeah, now if they're going to be charging 15% more again, you know, it really adds up. So that's one thing we've been discussing actually this whole week is how how much are we going to have to increase prices to like deal with that you know that shock again

Alex Xenopoulos: 只是补充Evan所说的。所以,近年来,比如过去两年左右,风险投资(Venture Capital: 投资于初创企业或高成长性企业的资金)真的停止了补贴这些第三方网站,他们不再提供这些大幅折扣,他们基本上买断了市场,对吧?他们提供了这种免费的、即时的午餐,然后现在我们实际上要提高价格,你知道,特别是优步(Uber: 一家提供网约车和外卖服务的公司),他们对出租车就是这样做的。他们把所有人都赶出了市场,然后一旦他们拥有了市场,他们就会说:“好吧,你知道吗?我们要收取我们实际的份额。”

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to just add to what Evan saying. So, in recent years, like the last 2 years or so, venture capital has really stopped subsidizing these third party, you know, websites and they're no longer offering these heavy discounts and like they basically bought the market, right? They offered this free, you know, you can get it instantaneous lunch and then now we're actually going to rack up prices and like, you know, Uber specifically, they did this with the taxis. They put everybody out of business and then once they own the market, they're like, "All right, you know what? We're going to take our actual cut."

Joe Weisenthal: 是的。我的意思是,它们就像真正的寄生实体。我……它们只是扰乱了……当然。听起来你以前想过这个问题。我的意思是,它们真的真的扰乱了食品行业,我感觉未来历史学家回顾这个时代,真正思考美国人的定义特征时,会觉得他们想要便利,而这些公司试图满足这一点,但却以一种寄生方式运作,它们真的真的伤害了,把自己置于你和你的客户之间,你知道,餐厅和他们的客户之间,基本上吸收了所有的好处。

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Yeah. I mean, they they are like really parasitic uh entities. I I they've just disrupted Sure. It sounds like you've thought about this before. I mean I mean they've really really disrupted the food industry and one of the elements that I feel like you know future historians when they're looking back on this time and really thinking about kind of the American and you know what's like the the defining aspect of the of the American and it's like you know they want convenience and these companies are trying to fulfill that but operating in such a parasitic manner that they just really really harm put themselves in between you and your customer you know the restaurant, their customer, and just basically absorb all the uh the upside there.

Alex Xenopoulos: 在这个过程中,他们基本上只是在摧毁这个行业。

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And in the process, they're basically just decimating, you know, this industry. And

Evan Xenopoulos: 你也看到了他们正在回应的方式,你知道,现在他们试图完全垂直整合,对吧?他们正在开设这些幽灵厨房(ghost kitchens: 没有实体店面,只通过外卖平台接单的厨房),里面有各种奇怪的品牌。

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you're also seeing in the way they're responding where, you know, now they're trying to go fully vertical, right? They're like opening up these ghost kitchens where they have all these weird brands and

Joe Weisenthal: 最愚蠢的餐厅名字。

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the stupidest restaurant name.

Evan Xenopoulos: 是的。我的意思是,所有这些……是的。就是最荒谬的餐厅名字,他们试图培养这种虚假的,你知道,意大利本地熟食店的形象,这简直是荒谬的。

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Yeah. I mean, just like all the Yeah. It's just like the most ridiculous restaurant names and they're attempting to cultivate this like faux, you know, ital like local Italian deli and and it's just ridiculous. And

Alex Xenopoulos: 但你知道,因为他们背后有大量的资本,他们能够……

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but you know, because they have so much capital behind them, they're able to kind of

Evan Xenopoulos: 通过这些集中的应用程序来管理访问。你知道,他们能够做到这一点。我不知道他们会多成功,但这真的很有害。他们是反社会的。他们真的在伤害“第三空间”和人们曾经聚集的地方。这很奇怪。

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manage through these concentrated apps like the access, you know, they're able to do that. I don't know how successful they'll be, but it's really harmful. They're asocial. They're really hurting kind of third spaces and where people used to come together. And it's very odd.

纽约城市经济与未来展望

Joe Weisenthal: 鉴于所有这些巨型公司寄生式地榨取价值并扰乱社区,我们现在对社会主义感觉如何?我之所以问这个问题,显然是因为我们可能在几个月后会有一位社会主义市长。

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So in light of all of these gigantic companies parasitically extracting value and disrupting community, how are we feeling about socialism these days? which I only ask obviously because we're in, you know, we uh we may have a socialist mayor in a few months.

Evan Xenopoulos: 是的。我的意思是,名义上的社会主义者。我觉得……

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Yeah. I mean, nominally socialist. I feel like um

Joe Weisenthal: 嗯,这很有趣,因为我想你们喜欢赚钱,你们是企业家。另一方面,他的竞选活动的一部分……

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Well, it's interesting because I imagine you guys love making money and you're entrepreneurs. On the other hand, part of his campaign

Evan Xenopoulos: 实际上是聚焦于小企业、bodegas(纽约市常见的小型便利店)和熟食店等等。所以,我很好奇你们是怎么想的……

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was actually spotlighting small business and bodeas and deli, etc. So, I'm curious how you're thinking about like

Joe Weisenthal: 等等,等等,等等。你担心会有市政府拥有的……你知道,佐拉姆·马尼(Zoram Mani: 一位纽约市政治家)进行了一场令人难以置信的竞选活动,充满活力。

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Wait, wait, wait. Are you worried there's going to be cityowned? Well, you know, Zoram Mani ran an incredible campaign, so energetic. And

Evan Xenopoulos: 我们总是谈论的一件事是,每个人都有自己的观点,对吧?你知道,生活成本问题是真实存在的。这很艰难,日常生活比疫情前更加艰难。所以,你知道,我认为他正在解决人们真正的担忧,你知道,

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the one thing we always talk about is that everybody has a point, right? You know, cost living issues are are real. It's it's hard and daily life has become much more of a grind than it was before the pandemic, right? So, you know, I think he was addressing, you know, real concerns from people and, you know,

Joe Weisenthal: 是的。但你担心什么?你知道,我……我们来的时候一直在谈论的一件事是,如果你两年没有来过纽约,你知道,两年后你再回来,你知道,你说的第一件事就是这座城市干净了很多,而且实际上更有趣,看起来更实用,你知道,犯罪和混乱也少了很多。

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Yeah. but what are you worried about? You know the one thing I'll you know we were talking about this on the way over you know if you had not visited New York in two years and you know you came back two years later now you know the first thing you would say is the city's a lot cleaner and is actually more fun seems more functional and you know there's a lot less crime and kind of disorder.

Tracy Alloway: 你注意到了吗?因为我本来想说我知道数据很好,但我无法判断我受新闻影响有多大,因为现在的数据非常好,但你绝对注意到了。

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Do you notice it? Because I was going to say I know the stats are good but I can't tell like how much am I being influenced by the fact that I read the news and the stats are very good these days but you absolutely notice it.

Evan Xenopoulos: 我,我,我绝对是。我的意思是,你……

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I I I think absolutely. I mean, do you

Alex Xenopoulos: 像我们这样的人,因为我整天在餐厅之间通勤。我的意思是,从2020年到现在,我每天乘坐地铁七八次,在街上走来走去,这非常明显。我知道显然有很多关于纽约的负面言论,你知道,在疫情和选举周期中,但是是的,它肯定没有达到以前的水平,但我确实理解,是的,当你可以支付鸡蛋或牛奶之类的费用时,我确实理解为什么人们会朝着那个方向发展,但政策也需要明智,因为我们城市已经有一个疯狂的预算,我们,你知道,如果你不断增加债务,你知道,我只是不明白他说的所有这些事情如何才能支付得起。

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someone who like cuz we're I'm commuting all day between the restaurants. I mean, from like 2020 to today, it's like I go on the subway seven, eight times a day, walk around the streets, like it is very noticeable. I know obviously there's a lot of like there was a lot of trashing New York, you know, during COVID and the election cycles and all that, but yeah, it's definitely not at that level that it was, but I do understand, yeah, when you can pay for eggs or milk and stuff like that, I do understand why people are going in that direction, but it also the policies need to be sensible cuz we already have a crazy budget in the city and we, you know, if you keep adding more and more debt, you know, I just don't see how you can pay for all these things he's saying

Evan Xenopoulos: 而不会在未来伤害我们,对吧?

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without hurting us down the road, right?

James Shields: 过度监管是餐厅未来面临的最大问题。

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The overregulation is the biggest the biggest problem for restaurants moving forward.

Alex Xenopoulos: 我确实看到,你知道,他有很棒的竞选亮点。有一个非常惊人的视频,关于他如何想任命一位小企业“沙皇”,我认为这会非常雄辩地描述夫妻店目前面临的困境,对吧?如果你是Chipotle(一家快餐连锁店),你有大约10个人可以处理监管问题,他们可以处理所有这些事情。但像我、Evan和Alex,我们只是在努力给你提供食物,你知道吗?

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And I did see, you know, he had he had great campaign points. There was this really stunning video on how he wanted to appoint a small business ZAR, which I thought would really eloquently describe like the the plight that the mom and pop is currently facing, right? Like if you're Chipotle, you got like 10 guys that can handle regulation and they can just deal with all that stuff. But like me, Evan, and Alex, we're like just literally trying to just get you food, you know?

Evan Xenopoulos: 是的。我想说的另一件事是,你知道,如果你看看他的竞选提案,比如住房之类的,

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Yeah. I I think the other thing I would say is like, you know, if if you look at his campaign proposals, let's say housing and things like that,

Alex Xenopoulos: 你知道,它非常像是在管理很多现有项目,你知道,来自亚当斯政府(Adams administration: 指现任纽约市市长Eric Adams的政府),纽约市的……是的。以及不同的监管,使其更容易获得许可之类的。

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you know, it's very much kind of trying to manage like a lot of existing programs that you know, from the Adams administration, city of Yes. and different like regulatory making it easier to permitting things like that.

Evan Xenopoulos: 这不像,你知道,他提议通过Nicha(可能是指纽约市住房管理局,NYCHA)建造一百万套住房。你明白我的意思吗?这就是为什么我发现关于他的很多讨论都很奇怪,因为……

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It's not like, you know, he's proposing building a million housing units via Nicha. Do do you know what I mean? Like that's why I find like a lot of the conversation about him to be very strange because

Joe Weisenthal: 夸大其词。

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hyperbolic.

Alex Xenopoulos: 是的。这很夸张,但他的提案也确实不像,你知道,你称他为社会主义者,他也自称社会主义者,但他的提案更符合我们过去六年所经历的进步新自由主义范式。你知道,例如,他谈论租金管制之类的。你知道,其中很多都是在2019年通过科莫(Cuomo: 指前纽约州州长Andrew Cuomo)颁布的,对吧?

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Yeah. It's hyperbolic, but also his proposals really aren't, you know, you call him a socialist and he calls himself a socialist, but his proposals are are much more kind of like in line with what's kind of the progressive neoliberal paradigm that we've had over the last six years. You know, for example, like, you know, he talks about rent control and things like that. You know, a lot of that was enacted via Cuomo in 2019, right?

从来没有真正诚实的辩论。2019年颁布的那些改革奏效了吗?显然,你知道,根据这次竞选,它们没有奏效。那么什么奏效,什么不奏效,你知道,而且我也不认为我没有看到很多外国记者来到纽约说:“哇,这个监管制度是我们需要的,我们需要把它带到东京。我们需要把它带到维也纳。”是的。读维也纳。你知道,没有人会那样说。不,你知道,所以这就是……

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There's never been a real honest debate. Have those reforms that were enacted 2019, have they worked? And clearly, you know, based on this campaign, they haven't. So, what works, what doesn't work, you know, and I I also don't think I don't see a lot of foreign journalists coming to New York and saying, "Wow, this regulatory regime is something we need to we need to bring this to, you know, Tokyo. We need to bring this Vienna." Yeah. Read Vienna. Like, you know, nobody says that. No, you know, so that's kind of

Evan Xenopoulos: 我觉得有时候我们不诚实,你知道,而且很多时候,Evan提到的城市预算,比如1200亿美元,非常庞大,对吧?所以当有人谈论紧缩预算时,我总是觉得空洞,因为,你知道,你花了很多钱。纽约市教育局(NYC DOE)每个学生将近4万美元,但它并没有真正带来结果。所以这意味着什么?是说我们花的钱不够多吗?是说,你知道,我们的治理效率不高吗?我认为这些是更有趣的问题,有时候,你知道,人们不想讨论,因为那些是难题。

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I feel like sometimes we're not honest and you know, often times also like the debate about Evan mentioned the city budgets like $120 billion. It's massive, right? You know, so when somebody talks about austerity budgets, it always rings hollow to me because, you know, you you're spending a lot of money. It's nearly $40,000 per student for the NYC DOE, but it's not really delivering results. So what does that mean? Like is it more we're not spending enough? Is it, you know, we're not effective in governance? Like I think those are the more interesting questions that sometimes, you know, people don't want to discuss because those are hard questions.

Joe Weisenthal: 披萨和政治。我喜欢这个组合。

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Pizza and politics. I like this combination.

Tracy Alloway: 会是一个很好的……肯定有人已经在做了。但如果没有,这可能是我们反复出现的主题。

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Be a good uh someone's got to be doing that already. But if not, it could be a recurring theme for us.

Joe Weisenthal: 嗯,再多谈谈监管的瓶颈。请给我们一个概念,因为如果我想到纽约餐厅的监管,比如,好的,当你开业时,肯定有很多障碍需要克服,但之后我唯一能想到的就是窗户上贴的健康等级字母,坦率地说,我看到很多“非A”等级的餐厅,所以在我的印象中,如果你能在没有获得A级的情况下继续经营,这可能不是什么大问题。

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Well, talk a little bit more about the regulatory choke points. It's like give us a sense cuz if I think about regulation of New York restaurants like okay when you're opening I'm sure there are a lot of hoops to jump through but then after that the only thing I can really think of is the uh the health letter that goes up on the window and frankly like I see a lot of nonas around so it seems in my mind like maybe this isn't a big deal if you can continue to operate without getting an A. I mean the one I want to bring up is earlier talking about why we went electric.

Evan Xenopoulos: 如果你试图为一家餐厅引入新的燃气服务,你的餐厅可能永远无法“醒来”。我的意思是,“醒来”可能永远无法开业。

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If you try to get a new gas service into a restaurant, your restaurant may never wake up. I mean wake up may never open.

Alex Xenopoulos: 联合爱迪生公司(ConEd: 纽约市的电力和天然气供应商)的燃气流程,这实际上是一个有趣的故事。我目前住的公寓,我们的燃气管道在1月份破裂了,我们可能要到明年1月或2月才能恢复。所以这只是一个例子,如果你想开一家餐厅,你可能只是坐在那里每天给联合爱迪生公司打电话,乞求他们让你的餐厅运营,这样你才能收回投资。所以这只是一个。但是是的,有很多持续的……你知道,有一次他们出台了一项规定,你不能开着门,这样空调就不会流失。你知道,显然纸吸管是一个大问题。所以他们总是试图给你的生意制造一些小麻烦,这就像……

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With the Coned process just for gas, it is actually funny story. I currently in my apartment our gas line cracked in January and we might not get it back to the following January or February. So that's just one where if you're trying to open up a restaurant, like you might just be sitting there calling Connet every day just begging for them to let your restaurant operate so you can make your investment back. So that's just one. But yeah, there's just a lot of constant, you know, at one point they put a regulation for you can't keep your doors open so air conditioning and flow out. You know, obviously the paper straw thing was a big one. So there's constant little annoyances that they just try to put into your business and it's like just

Joe Weisenthal: 为什么纸吸管仍然存在?特朗普赢了。我以为……等等,我以为为什么我们要真正摆脱它?它们是怎么回事?我仍然时不时地收到它们,谁要求这个了?

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why are people straws still a thing? Trump won. I thought like wait I thought why did we get rid of that for real like how are they I still get them from time to time like who's asking for this

Evan Xenopoulos: 我完全同意,这就像是这些我们不断尝试做的小事情,对我们来说就是个麻烦。你知道,垃圾问题,显然我很高兴亚当斯市长(Mayor Adams: 指现任纽约市市长Eric Adams)解决了这个问题,这一直是这个城市的一个大问题。

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I couldn't agree more it's just like it's just these little things that we try to constantly do and it's just a headache for us like you know with the garbage it's like obviously I'm very happy Mayor Adams you know tackled that's been a huge issue for this city

Tracy Alloway: 你觉得这方面有进展吗?比如当你看到纽约的垃圾和老鼠问题时,他经常吹嘘他的“灭鼠战争”,你觉得有进展吗?你是否能看到进展?他声称自己是老鼠问题上的“单一议题选民”。我不确定这是真的。

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do you perceive uh progress on that like when you look at the trash and also the rat situation in New York which he touts his war on rats a lot do you perceive are you able to see progress claims to be a single issue voter on rats. I'm not sure it's true.

Joe Weisenthal: 披萨老鼠。

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Pizza rats.

Tracy Alloway: 不。你注意到这种事情了吗?

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No. Do you notice the kind of stuff?

Evan Xenopoulos: 我的意思是,我认为把垃圾装进容器里非常好,你知道,特别是。所以,我刚刚在欧洲和葡萄牙,他们有这些漂亮的垃圾桶,它们是一个地下通道,然后他们来取走。我希望不要再看到到处都是垃圾袋了,你知道,而且,你知道,我们只需要把街道清理一下,对吧?所以,这很好。

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I mean, I think it's just very good to just containerize garbage, you know, especially So, I was just in Europe and Portugal and they have these beautiful garbage cans where they it's a shoot underground, then they come and get it. Like, I would love to just stop seeing garbage bags everywhere, you know, and it's, you know, we just need to clean up the streets a little bit, right? So, it's good.

Alex Xenopoulos: 是的。我也想补充一点,因为疫情发生时,他们基本上开放了所有“三字母机构”的监管。所以,虽然你看到卫生部门有更多的“等级待定”标志,但我的意思是,我更担心消防部门和交通部门,因为他们处理户外用餐的方式简直是荒谬的。现在户外用餐有100个新的步骤,而我以前只需要填写一份表格,寄一张支票,每年就可以续签。现在我有11张交通部门的待处理罚单,原因各不相同。

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Yeah. I also want to add to that because um when COVID happened, they basically opened up the regulation for every three-letter agency. So, while you're seeing a lot more of the grade pending signs from the health department, I mean, I'm more concerned about the fire department and the department of transportation because the way that they tackled the outdoor dining has been ridiculous. There's a hundred new steps to doing outdoor dining whereas I used to just have to fill out a form, send in a check and it get renewed every year. Now I have 11 pending tickets from the Department of Transportation for various reasons.

Tracy Alloway: 那真可惜。我非常喜欢户外用餐,我希望纽约能有更多,尽管有老鼠问题。Jerry,就业务面临的额外压力而言,我们可能还需要谈谈另一个问题。同样,情况有点不稳定。我们是在7月8日录制这期节目,但关税问题,对吧?我猜作为一家披萨店,你们可能从意大利进口一些番茄,或者我不知道,从法国进口一些高级面粉,我知道这是一种情况。这预计会影响你们的业务吗?

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That's a shame. I'm a big fan of outdoor dining and I wish there was more of it in New York despite the rat problem. Jerry, in terms of additional pressures on the business, there's another one we should probably talk about. Again, situation is kind of in flux. We're recording this on July 8th, but tariffs, right? I assume as a pizza place, maybe you're importing uh some tomatoes from Italy or I don't know, fancy flour from France, which I know is a thing. Is that expected to impact your business at all?

Alex Xenopoulos: 一个肯定受到影响的领域就是纸张和塑料。很多用于品牌推广之类的纸张和塑料材料都来自国外。在美国生产这些东西变得更贵了。所以,你知道,你正在进口很多不同的产品。你在不同地方看到的碗来自越南或中国或其他一些地区,你知道,纸浆碗。所以,这是一个明显影响很多餐厅的领域。你知道,显然,你知道,过去几个月来,来回的争论很荒谬,但这绝对是一个我认为很多餐厅经营者都关心并最终会受到影响的领域。

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One area where it definitely has impacted is just paper and plastic. Um, a lot of paper and plastic materials that go into kind of branding and things like that do come from abroad. It's just become more expensive in the US to produce those types of things. So, you know, you're importing a lot of different products. The bulls that you see at at different spots come from, you know, Vietnam or China or some other areas and uh, you know, the pulp bulls. And so, that's one area where clearly, you know, for a lot of restaurants, they are impacted. You know, obviously there's, you know, it's been kind of a ridiculous couple of months with the the back and forth, but that's definitely an area where I think a lot of restaurant operators are concerned and will actually ultimately be impacted by it.

James Shields: 所以,这是一个全球供应链,就像这里有一个例子,对吧?你认为瑞士的食品产品是什么?

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So, it it is a global supply chain and like here's an example, right? Like what do you associate the food product of Switzerland to be?

Joe Weisenthal: 奶酪。

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Cheese.

James Shields: 奶酪。好的。巧克力。你认为当地的可可豆离瑞士有多远?

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Cheese. Okay. Chocolate. How many miles you think is the local cocoa bean from Switzerland?

Joe Weisenthal: 很远。

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A lot.

James Shields: 很远。是的。

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A lot. Yeah.

Joe Weisenthal: 大约1200英里。

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Yeah. Like 1,200 miles.

James Shields: 但奶酪是本地的。

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But cheese is local.

Joe Weisenthal: 奶酪是本地的。是的。

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Cheese is local. Yeah.

Tracy Alloway: 你如何评估纽约市经济目前的周期性状况?人们,我认为从未如此分裂和困惑,无论是谈论国家经济还是其他任何事情。你可能会看到有人指出:“看,现在一切都在蓬勃发展。”而另一些人则会提出非常有说服力的论点,比如事情正在放缓,美联储必须降息等等。就像现在,7月8日,情况感觉如何?

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How would you assess the sort of current cyclical state of the New York City economy? People, I don't think have like ever been more divided and confused about just the trajectory of whether we're talking about the national economy or anything else. You could have people pointing to signs like, "Look, things are booming right now." And other people will have very compelling arguments like things are slowing down, Fed's got to cut and stuff. Like right now, July 8th, how are things feeling?

Evan Xenopoulos: 我的意思是,我可以先说。我知道我们都有自己的看法。我的意思是,回到我们为什么开始这项业务。我们一直相信纽约会回来。你知道,显然我们在疫情中期冒了巨大的风险,你知道,现在我们看到总是有好坏参半的迹象。显然我们刚刚度过了大的假日周期,你知道,在阵亡将士纪念日(Memorial Day)、六月节(Juneteenth)和7月4日(美国独立日)之间,你知道,我们看到了更多的餐饮服务,这很棒。显然在中城东区这样的地方,很高兴看到周一到周四的人流量又回来了。所以,你知道,我们对进入这个秋季感到非常乐观。

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I mean I I could start. I know we all have opinions on it. I mean just back to why we started this business. We always believed New York would come back. You know obviously we took a huge risk uh in the middle of co and you know right now we are seeing it's always good and bad signs right. Obviously we just came out of the big holiday cycle you know between Memorial Day Junth and 4th of July and you know we are seeing more catering which is great. Obviously in an area like Midtown East it's very nice to see the foot traffic you know Monday through Thursday back again. So that's, you know, we're feeling very optimistic entering this.

Joe Weisenthal: 星期五永远消失了,是吗?

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Fridays are gone for good, huh?

Evan Xenopoulos: 那是,那是我们之前没有提到的。你知道,管理开支的一个大问题是,至少在纽约,星期五,你知道,我不知道其他城市或郊区怎么样,但是……

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That, so that was one thing we didn't bring up earlier. You know, one of the big issues trying to manage your expenses is that Friday, at least in New York, you know, I don't know about other cities or in the suburbs, but

Alex Xenopoulos: 失去了那个星期五,你知道,那个星期五我们,你知道,你……

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losing that Friday, you know, that Friday we're, you know, you're

Joe Weisenthal: 人们可能不会在周一到周四吃更多的午饭来弥补他们不点外卖的事实。

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people probably don't eat more lunch on Monday through Thursday to compensate for the fact that they're not ordering up.

Evan Xenopoulos: 没错。就像你在做基本的餐厅模型时,每周失去一整个工作日,对吧?这会累积起来。但我想说,我们对进入这个秋季的感觉比往年好得多。你知道,我们有几个月,就像,哇,这真是,你知道,Zeno's有两个月比去年增长了25%,这太棒了。所以,在这方面感觉很好,但是你知道,我们总是如履薄冰,对吧?就像我们不知道某些开支会发生什么,我们将继续努力。但是,是的。

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Exactly. Like when you're doing your basic, you know, modeling for your restaurant, losing one whole week day a week, right? It adds up. But I will say we are feeling way better entering this fall than the previous years. You know, just we've had a couple months where it's like, wow, this is, you know, we had two months that were up 25% at Zenos from last year, which is fantastic. So, feeling good on that end, but you know, we're always on edge, right? It's like we don't know what's going to happen with certain expenses and we're going to keep pushing. But, yeah.

Alex Xenopoulos: 所以,是的,说到这一点,财富效应,对吧?人们可以避免在星期五来曼哈顿,但在夏天,当你有劳动节(Labor Day)、阵亡将士纪念日这三个大假期时,他们在假期前一周和后一周都不在。所以,纽约市基本上变成了一个有点像鬼城的地方。

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So, yeah, to speak to that, the wealth effect, right? people can avoid coming into to Manhattan on Friday, but also during the summer when you have a Labor Day, Memorial Day, you know, the three big holidays, they're gone the week before and the week after. So, you're essentially New York City is turning into a little bit of a ghost town.

Joe Weisenthal: 嗯,因为他们现在很富有,因为股市,所以他们在假期前后休更长的假。你是这个意思吗?

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Well, because they're really rich these days cuz the stock market, so they're taking longer vacations around holidays. Is that what you're saying?

Alex Xenopoulos: 都是这些原因。

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It's It's all the points.

Tracy Alloway: 他们在汉普顿(Hamptons: 纽约长岛东端的一个富裕度假区)买披萨。

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They're buying pizza in the Hamptons.

Alex Xenopoulos: 没错。

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Exactly.

Joe Weisenthal: 这些假期比以前更长了。

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That these are becoming longer holidays than they used to.

Tracy Alloway: 这真的很有趣。

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That's really interesting.

Alex Xenopoulos: 你可以在销售额中看到这一点。哇。

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You can see it in the sales. Wow.

Evan Xenopoulos: 是的。我认为,我认为这有点是问题的一部分,在疫情之前,很多在餐饮业的人,它非常可预测。你对每周的情况有一个大致的了解,以及如何管理,你知道,那就像是第二天性。而现在有了远程工作,你知道,以及人们对待工作的方式。你知道,管理业务和预测,以及能够稳定城市整体销售额,这是一个更大的挑战。嗯,这很有趣,像中城东区,广场区(Plaza District: 曼哈顿中城的一个商业区),随着曼哈顿向上和向北发展,你知道,是什么让那个区域成为那个区域?是交通网络,对吧?它是一个交通枢纽。你有中央车站(Grand Central: 纽约市的一个主要火车站),所有地铁线路都在那里交汇,它是整个三州地区(tri-state area: 指纽约州、新泽西州和康涅狄格州)的真正交汇点。东区通道(East Side Access: 将长岛铁路LIRR引入中央车站的项目)显然是把长岛铁路(LIRR: Long Island Rail Road)引入中央车站的大项目。希望他们能弄清楚如何真正有效地利用它。但是,你知道,这就是为什么我们长期看好这个城市的特定部分。你知道,它吸引了来自整个地区的人们,最终这将使其再次繁荣,你知道,复制疫情前的状况。

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Yeah. I think I I think that's kind of part of the problem where before the pandemic, a lot of these being in the restaurant industry, it was very predictable. You kind of had like a sense of where each week would be and how to manage, you know, that was just kind of like second nature. And now with kind of remote work and, you know, how people approach work as well. You know, it's it's a much bigger challenge to kind of manage the business and predicting and you know, being able to kind of steady sales on the city as a whole. Well, it's it's kind of interesting like Midtown East, the Plaza District, as Manhattan was moving upwards and north, you know, what made that area that area was the transportation network, right? It's like a nexus of transportation. You have Grand Central, all the subway lines crossing there, and it's a real crossing of the whole tri-state area. East Side Access obviously was the big project that brought LIRR into Grand Central. Hopefully, they figure out how to actually like properly utilize that. But, you know, and that's kind of why we're bullish longterm on that specific part of the city. It's, you know, it draws people from all over the region and ultimately that's what's going to allow it to thrive again and, you know, replicate kind of the uh where it was pre- pandemic.

经验教训与最终思考

Joe Weisenthal: 如果你们再次开Zeno's,或者如果你们能回到过去重来一次,有什么会做得不同吗?

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If you were opening Zenos again or if you could go back in time and and do it over, is there anything you'd do differently?

Alex Xenopoulos: 嗯,这是一个沉重的问题。是的。我的意思是,回到你之前的问题,就像你在选择地点时,你知道,你在寻找办公室客户、游客、当地人,你知道,你显然试图平衡所有这些因素,然后还要考虑租金成本。我们显然找到了一个竞争不多的区域,我们觉得这会给我们一个机会。

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Well, that's a that's a heavy one. Yeah. I mean back to your yeah the question earlier it's like when you're picking the location you know you're looking for office clients tourists locals and you know you're trying to balance all those things obviously and then against the cost of the rent we obviously found a you know area where did not have a lot of competition we felt was going to give us a chance to

Joe Weisenthal: 你只是通过在谷歌地图上输入“披萨”并缩小地图,寻找没有红点的地方找到的?这太疯狂了。当你寻找时,你需要,是的,你需要检查你周围有什么,我们喜欢这个空间。它,你知道,显然是一个很棒的空间,我们了解这个区域,但例如,我们在这个区域失去了一样东西,那就是游客,因为疫情以来,该地区有四五家大型酒店都关闭了。

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and you just found that by typing pizza in Google maps and zooming out looking for lack of red dots that's crazy when you're looking you need to yeah you need to check what's what's around you and we like the space. It, you know, obviously was a great space over there and we knew the area, but for example, one thing we've lost in this area is tourists because uh four or five of like the big hotels in the area have shut down since co

Evan Xenopoulos: 所以显然回过头来看,你无法预测这一点,我确实认为如果我们有另一次机会,就像,我的意思是,我们喜欢这个空间,但也许你需要去寻找一个更旅游化的区域,但你如何预测这一点?然后我们讨论的一件事很有趣,那就是披萨和酒吧通常是搭配在一起的,对吧?但你看到现在人们喝得少了。所以那些区域是不是不像以前那么好了?我不知道。

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so obviously looking back you can't predict that and I do think if we had another chance it's like I mean we love this space but like maybe do you need to like go find an area that's a little bit more touristy but like how how can you predict that? And then the one thing we were discussing which is interesting is obviously pizza and bars usually go together, right? But you are seeing people are drinking less now. So are those areas not as good as you know they used to be? I don't know.

Joe Weisenthal: Evan、Alex和James,太棒了。这正是我希望进行的对话。我甚至不知道我们会从中得到披萨,但这很有趣。我们学到了很多。非常感谢你们来到OddLots。

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Evan, Alex, and James, that was fantastic. That was the conversation I hope to have. I I didn't even know we were going to get pizza out of it, but that was a lot of fun. We learned a lot. And uh thank you all so much for coming on Outlaws.

James Shields: 谢谢你们。谢谢邀请。太棒了。

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Thank you. Thanks for having us. Great.

Evan Xenopoulos: 谢谢邀请。

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Thanks for having us.

Joe Weisenthal: 顺便向Chris Hatch(一位播客嘉宾)致敬。哦,是的,顺便向Chris Hatch致敬,他曾多次登上我们的播客。他把我介绍给了James,然后我也通过去牛津咖啡馆认识了Alex。所以,一切都在这里汇集。非常感谢你们。

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Shout out Chris Hatch, by the way. Oh yeah, Chris Hatch, by the way, who uh we've had on the podcast a couple of times. He introduced me to James and then I also met Alex by going to the Oxford Cafe. So, all coming together here. Thank you guys so much.

James Shields: 谢谢你们。

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Thank you.

Evan Xenopoulos: 非常感谢。

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Thanks so much.

Joe Weisenthal: Tracy,我实际上我的胃感觉没那么糟糕。我以前不知道,哦,你发酵很长时间,然后吃麸质,然后你不会感觉那么沉重。我什么都不知道。

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Tracy, I actually my stomach does not feel that bad. I did not know that about like oh you ferment for a long time and then eat the gluten and then you don't feel as heavy. I didn't know I didn't know anything about that.

Tracy Alloway: 我也不知道。虽然我不得不承认,午餐后沉重感这个问题我从未有过。我从不理解。

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I didn't know that either. Although I have to confess the whole lunchtime heaviness thing is I have never had that problem. I never understood it.

Joe Weisenthal: 你认为我有麸质问题吗?我会很尴尬的,我不想……我不想评判那些人,我总是想,如果我是那些有麸质问题的人之一呢?

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Do you think I have a gluten I'd be so embarrassed like I I don't want to I don't want to judge people who like I've always like what if I'm one of those gluten people.

Tracy Alloway: 嗯,

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Well,

Joe Weisenthal: 哦,我有麸质问题。

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oh I have a gluten.

Tracy Alloway: 嗯,也许如果你真的考虑一下,你会感觉好一点。但这真的……

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Well, maybe you'll feel better if you actually take it into account. But that was really

Joe Weisenthal: 好的。我现在有了同理心,意识到我就是那些有麸质问题的人之一。

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fine. I have empathy now upon realizing that I'm one of those gluten people.

Tracy Alloway: 好的。好吧。所以,我们谈到了披萨和政治。

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All right. Well, okay. So, we talked about pizza and politics,

Joe Weisenthal: 西西里披萨配社会主义。

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Sicilian with a side of socialism.

Tracy Alloway: 是的。

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Yeah.

Joe Weisenthal: 意式番茄酱和宏观经济。

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Marinara and the macroeconomy.

Tracy Alloway: 你把这些都写下来了吗?

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Were you writing all these down?

Joe Weisenthal: 是的,我确实写了。

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Yes, I was actually.

Tracy Alloway: 我喜欢你每次有机会就喜欢用双关语和头韵。但是不,我确实觉得那很有趣。我喜欢企业家。他们很乐观。他们必须如此,不是吗?

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I love your fidiousness about dropping puns and alliteration whenever you get whenever you get an whenever you get a opportunity. But no, I did think that was uh really fun. And I like entrepreneurs. They're optimistic. They have to be, don't they?

Joe Weisenthal: 没错。我正在思考我们在这几期关于餐厅或批发食品业务的节目中反复出现的一些主题。是的。那就是很多成本上涨来自第三方服务这个中间层。无论是你必须外包配送之类的,还是你必须使用像外卖应用程序这样的东西,它向顾客和餐厅收取巨额费用。我觉得我需要向不在纽约的人强调这一点。纽约的外卖应用程序收费。顺便说一下,我从不……我实际上很老派。我在线订餐后,会走到店里取餐。

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That's right. I am thinking about like a couple themes that keep coming across in these couple of episodes we've done on the sort of restaurant or wholesale food business. Yeah. And that's the idea of a lot of the cost increases coming from that sort of middle layer of third-party services. Whether it's because you have to outsource something like distribution or it's because you have to use something like an app, a food delivery app that charges an enormous amount of money to both the customer and the restaurant apparently. I feel like I need to impress this on people who are not in New York. The food app charges in New York. By the way, I never get I actually start I'm real oldfashioned. I walk to the store and pick up my food after ordering it online.

Tracy Alloway: 那是林迪效应(Lindy Effect: 指非易逝品预期寿命与其当前寿命成正比的现象)。

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That's Lindy.

Joe Weisenthal: 是的,

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Yeah,

Tracy Alloway: 确实是林迪效应。是的。不,这太疯狂了。这完全是疯狂的。

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it is Lindy. Yeah. No, it's insane. It's It's completely insane.

Joe Weisenthal: 好的。嗯,我们可能可以谈很久的披萨。

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All right. Well, we could probably talk about pizza for a long time.

Tracy Alloway: 但我们现在控制室里还有更多披萨。所以,与其继续谈论它,我更想再来一片。

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But we have more pizza in the control room right now. So, rather than continuing to talk about it, I want another slice.

Joe Weisenthal: 好的。我们就到这里吧?

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All right. Shall we leave it there?

Tracy Alloway: 就到这里吧。

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Let's leave it there.

Joe Weisenthal: 这是OddLots播客的又一期节目。我是Tracy Alloway。你可以在@TraceeAlaway关注我。

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This has been another episode of the Odd Lots podcast. I'm Tracy Aloway. You can follow me at Tracee Alaway.

我是Joe Weisenthal。你可以在@thestallwork关注我。去看看他们的餐厅。Alex、Evan和James。他们都有Zeno's。而且,我发誓我有点想在60街的牛津咖啡馆做一期节目,那是最好的切碎沙拉。我们曾经想过要做一期关于他们切碎沙拉的节目,因为它本身就是一个很棒的物流故事。所以,如果你在该地区,去看看牛津咖啡馆。在Twitter上关注James Shields,@JamesAShields。关注我们的制作人Carmen Rodriguez,@CarmenArmen。Dash Bennett,@Dashbot。和Kale Brooks,@Kalebrooks。更多OddLots内容,请访问bloomberg.com/odlots,我们有每日通讯和所有节目,你可以在我们的Discord频道discord.gg/odlotss上24/7讨论所有这些话题。

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And I'm Jill Weisenthal. You can follow me at the stallwork. Go check out their restaurants. Um, Alex and Evan and James. They all have uh, Xenos. And also, I swear I I kind of want to do the Oxford Cafe on I guess 60th Street is the best chopped salad in the We could at one point I wanted to do an episode on their chopped salad because it's it's its own great logistic story. So, go check out the Oxford Cafe if you're in the area. Follow James Shields on Twitter, James A. Shields. Follow our producers Carmen Rodriguez at Carmen Armen. Dash Bennett at Dashbot and Kalebrooks at Kalebrooks. For more OddLots content, go to bloomberg.com/odlots where we have a daily newsletter and all of our episodes and you can chat about all of these topics 24/7 in our Discord, discord.gg/odlotss.

Tracy Alloway: 如果你喜欢OddLots,如果你喜欢我们谈论碳水化合物的生意,那么请在你最喜欢的播客平台上给我们留下一个好评。请记住,如果你是彭博社的订阅者,你可以完全免费收听我们所有的节目。你只需要在Apple Podcast上找到彭博社频道,然后按照那里的说明操作即可。谢谢收听。

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And if you enjoy OddLots, if you like it when we talk about the business of carbs, then please leave us a positive review on your favorite podcast platform. And remember, if you are a Bloomberg subscriber, you can listen to all of our episodes absolutely adree. All you need to do is find the Bloomberg channel on Apple Podcast and follow the instructions there. Thanks for listening.

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关键字: challenge economy party regulatory restaurant-economics