冬季保湿的重要性
Kyra Blackwell: 如果你买了这东西,它就放在你的梳妆台上,你从没用过,那它的价值就是零。所以,如果你一直在用的那款贵一点,那就用它吧,那才是你该用的。
Original English
Kyra Blackwell: If you buy this thing and it sits in your vanity and you never use it, the value is zero. So if the one that you keep using is the one that cost a little bit more, so be it. That's the one you should use.
Rosie Garin: 我是Rosie Garin。
Original English
Rosie Garin: I'm Rosie Garin.
Kyra Blackwell: 我是Kyra Blackwell。你正在收听的是《Wirecutter Show》。
Original English
Kyra Blackwell: I'm Kyra Blackwell. And you're listening to the Wire Cutter Show.
Kyra Blackwell: 嗨,Kyra。
Original English
Kyra Blackwell: Hi, Kyra.
Rosie Garin: 嗨,Rosie。
Original English
Rosie Garin: Hi, Rosie.
Kyra Blackwell: 嗨,我的朋友。现在是冬天,不是吗?
Original English
Kyra Blackwell: Hi, my friend. Uh, it's winter time, isn't it?
Rosie Garin: 太冷了。
Original English
Rosie Garin: It's so cold.
Kyra Blackwell: 纽约很冷,很冷。
Original English
Kyra Blackwell: It's cold in New York. It's cold.
Rosie Garin: 风很大,刺骨的冷。
Original English
Rosie Garin: It's windy. It's blistering.
Kyra Blackwell: 我们今天谈论的是润肤霜,这不是偶然的,因为天气很干燥。
Original English
Kyra Blackwell: We're talking moisturizers today, and that's not incidental. It's dry.
Rosie Garin: 是的,我的皮肤现在在“哭泣”。
Original English
Rosie Garin: Yeah. My skin is crying right now.
Kyra Blackwell: 我也是。所以,我很高兴看到Wirecutter发布了关于面部润肤霜和身体乳液的指南,特别是那些在药店就能买到的产品。我想了解更多,因为我意识到自己知道的很少。是的,我也很期待了解更多。我也很期待那位将带领我们踏上这段旅程的人。她是Jen Sullivan,她非常棒。她是Wirecutter美容团队的资深编辑,从事美容行业至少25年了。所以,她将真正地带我们了解润肤霜的基础知识,你所知道的,你可能认为你知道的,以及如何涂抹它们,让你的皮肤在整个冬天保持光滑、柔软和水润。所以,休息回来后,我们有6万个问题要问Jen。我们马上回来。
Original English
Kyra Blackwell: Mine, too. So, I was excited to see Wirecutter's Guide published about facial moisturizers and body lotions, specifically things you can find in the drugstore. I want to know more because I realize I know very, very little. Yeah, I'm really excited to learn more, too. And I'm excited for the person who's going to take us on this journey. It's Jen Sullivan. She is amazing. She's a senior editor here at Wirecutter on the beauty team. And she's been covering beauty for at least 25 years. So, she's going to really walk us through the basics of moisturizer, what you know, what you think you might know, and how to apply them, and keep your skin smooth, soft, and hydrated all winter long. So, 60,000 questions for Jen after the break. We'll be right back.
什么是润肤霜?
Kyra Blackwell: 欢迎回来。今天我们的嘉宾是Jen Sullivan,她是Wirecutter美容团队的资深编辑,从事美容行业至少25年了。她还主持过自己的获奖播客《Fat Mascara》。所以,Jen真的是一位专家。嗨,Jen。
Original English
Kyra Blackwell: Welcome back. With us now is Jen Sullivan, a senior editor on Wirecutter's beauty team who's been covering beauty for at least 25 years. She also hosted her own award-winning podcast, Fat Mascara. So, Jen really is a pro. Hi, Jen.
Jen Sullivan: 嗨。
Original English
Jen Sullivan: Hi.
Kyra Blackwell: 嗨。今天我们谈论的是润肤霜,我们先从宏观角度开始。你能先解释一下我们说“润肤霜”时指的是什么吗?我们谈论的是什么?我们可能会指很多东西,但我认为我们谈论的是你涂抹在皮肤上的局部产品,以补充水分、锁住水分、防止水分流失、软化皮肤。它们有很多作用。那它适合谁用呢?谁需要使用润肤霜?我认为我们所有人,在人生的某个阶段都需要,因为你知道,当你年轻时,你的皮肤屏障不是特别强壮,可能不太擅长锁住水分。随着年龄增长,你的皮肤会变得更干燥。
Original English
Kyra Blackwell: Hi. Today, we're talking moisturizer, and we're going to zoom way out to start. So, can you just first explain what we mean when we say moisturizer? What are we talking about? Uh, we can meet a lot of things, but I think we talk about topical products you put on your skin to add back in hydration, lock in hydration, prevent water loss, soften your skin. They do a lot of things. And who is it good for? Who needs to be using moisturizer? I would argue all of us at some point in our lives because, you know, when you're young, your skin barrier is not super strong. You might not be good at holding in moisture. As you get older, your skin gets drier.
Jen Sullivan: 解释一下你说的皮肤屏障是什么意思。指的是你的细胞保持皮肤中水分的能力,不如年龄稍大的人强,因为我刚才那个例子说的是孩子。
Original English
Jen Sullivan: And explain what you mean by skin barrier. Meaning your cell's ability to hold in the water that is in your skin is not as strong as someone who's a little bit older because I was talking about kids in that for particular example.
Rosie Garin: 明白了。
Original English
Rosie Garin: Gotcha.
如何测试润肤霜
Rosie Garin: 那么,Jen,假设有人在家尝试Wirecutter的方法,他们可能一次性买了三个不同品牌的润肤霜来试用。他们的测试过程应该是什么样的?
Original English
Rosie Garin: So, Jen, say somebody does the Wirecutter method at home and maybe they buy like three different brands to try at once. What should their testing process actually look like?
Jen Sullivan: 哦,我很高兴他们尝试模仿我们在办公室里做的事情,因为我们为此付出了很多努力。如果你想买三个并尝试,我的意思是,我会说先买一个,看看它是否有效,然后再买另外两个。
Original English
Jen Sullivan: Oh, I'm so glad they're trying to mimic what we do in the office because we put a lot of work into it. If you want to buy three and you want to try, I mean, I would say buy one, see if it works, then buy the other two.
Rosie Garin: 是的。
Original English
Rosie Garin: Yeah.
Jen Sullivan: 但如果你是敏感肌,我会说先做斑贴测试。只用一点点,确保它不会刺激你。
Original English
Jen Sullivan: But if you have sensitive skin, I would say patch test first. Just use a little bit to make sure that it doesn't irritate you. Right on contact.
Rosie Garin: 涂在你身体的任何部位。
Original English
Rosie Garin: On any part of your body.
Jen Sullivan: 皮肤科医生说,顺便说一句,各位,我不是皮肤科医生。所以我说的每件事,都要持保留态度。先在身体上试用,确保你喜欢它的气味,它不会困扰你,所有这些。
Original English
Jen Sullivan: Dermatologists say, and by the way, guys, I am not a dermatologist. So everything I'm saying, take with a grain of, you know, salt. Try your body first and make sure that like you like the scent, it doesn't bother you, all that kind of stuff.
Rosie Garin: 明白了。然后,我不知道人们是否会喜欢这个,但至少要30天才能看到它对你的皮肤的效果。
Original English
Rosie Garin: Got it? And then I don't know if people are going to like this, but at least 30 days to see how it works for your skin.
Jen Sullivan: 30天。
Original English
Jen Sullivan: 30 days.
Rosie Garin: 你的皮肤需要那么长时间才能更新,并产生一组新的皮肤细胞。所以你真的需要看看它在整个过程中是如何起作用的。
Original English
Rosie Garin: It takes that long for your skin to like turn over and get a new set of skin cells going. So you really want to like see how it worked through that whole process.
Jen Sullivan: 你确实需要精准地找出问题。所以,如果你要给你的日常护肤程序添加新东西,不要改变任何其他东西。这样,如果你确实发现有问题,你就能确切地知道问题出在哪里。
Original English
Jen Sullivan: And you really do have to pinpoint. So if you're going to add something new to your routine, don't change anything else. So if you do see something wrong, you can know exactly what the problem is. Right.
Kyra Blackwell: 说得像Wirecutter的编辑一样。是的,单一变量。
Original English
Kyra Blackwell: Spoken like a Wirecutter editor. Yes. Single variable.
Rosie Garin: 是的。那么,你能告诉我们人们应该注意什么,才能知道润肤霜是否有效吗?
Original English
Rosie Garin: Yes. So, can you tell us what people should look for to know if the moisturizer is working or if it isn't working?
Jen Sullivan: 我觉得一款好的润肤霜,你会忘记它的存在,你会发现自己一直在用它,因为你的皮肤感觉舒适良好。它不会让你感觉有什么异样,也不会让你感觉更糟,你的皮肤表现正常。
Original English
Jen Sullivan: I feel like a good moisturizer, you're going to forget about like you're going to find yourself using it because your skin feels comfortable and good. It doesn't feel like anything. It doesn't make you feel worse and your skin is acting the way it should.
Rosie Garin: 是的。
Original English
Rosie Garin: Yeah.
Jen Sullivan: 如果不是,你就会发痒,可能有点红,可能只是有点。是的。那么,就一定要改变一下。改变它。
Original English
Jen Sullivan: And if it's not, you're itchy. You're maybe a little red. You're maybe just a little Yeah. Well, then definitely change things up. Change it. Change it up.
面部与身体润肤霜的区别
Rosie Garin: 好的。那么这份指南,特别是面部润肤霜指南,我们有七款推荐产品,身体乳液指南有八款。你能先解释一下面部润肤霜和身体乳液的区别吗?因为我认为很多人会交替使用它们,或者至少想这样做。
Original English
Rosie Garin: Okay. So this guide, this specifically this facial moisturizer guide, we have seven picks and eight in the body lotion guide. Can you first explain the difference between facial moisturizer and body lotion because I think many people use them interchangeably. Some people use them interchangeably or at least want to or at least want to.
Jen Sullivan: 面部润肤霜和身体润肤霜的区别在于营销。
Original English
Jen Sullivan: The difference between face moisturizer and body moisturizer is marketing.
Rosie Garin: 不会吧。
Original English
Rosie Garin: No way.
Jen Sullivan: 是的。我的意思是,有些身体产品你可以用在脸上,有些面部产品你可以用在身体上。这取决于你和你的特定皮肤需求,但总的来说,这两种产品中有很多相同的成分。我要说的是,身体皮肤往往更干燥。所以,这些产品往往是更丰润的配方,更厚一点,可能含有更多的封闭剂,它们是那些护肤保护剂,它们保护皮肤的屏障。
Original English
Jen Sullivan: Yes. I mean, there are products there are body products you can use around your face, face products you can use on your body. It depends on you and your particular skin needs, but by and large, it's a lot of the same ingredients in both those types of products. I will say that the body skin tends to be drier. So, those products tend to be like richer formulas, a little bit thicker, maybe more occlusives, which are those uh skin care protecting. They protect the barrier of the skin.
Rosie Garin: 就像凡士林。
Original English
Rosie Garin: Like a Vaseline.
Jen Sullivan: 凡士林是一种封闭剂,是的,但还有很多其他的。但有些人不喜欢厚重产品涂在脸上的感觉。它感觉油腻,而且你的脸有更多的油腺,所以它本身就有一些水分,这在你的身体上可能不总是能找到。但总的来说,如果一款产品对你全身都有效,你只需要一款产品。过你自己的生活吧。
Original English
Jen Sullivan: Petroleum jelly is an occlusive, yes, but there are lots of others. But like some people don't like the feel of a thicker product on their face. It feels greasy and your face has more oil glands, so it's kind of got its own moisture going on that you might not always find on your body. But by and large, if like a product works for you all over, you only need one product. Live your life.
根据肤质选择润肤霜
Rosie Garin: 那么,有没有一个速查表,让人们知道或记住,如果他们有某种肤质,哪种润肤霜会与该肤质匹配?如何让这个决定更容易一些?
Original English
Rosie Garin: So, is there a cheat sheet for people to know or remember where like they know that they have a skin type, what kind of moisturizer will match with that skin type? How do you make that decision a little bit easier?
Jen Sullivan: 这完全是个人喜好。真的。这就是为什么我们有这么多选择,因为我们想给你提供选择。没有固定的数学公式,比如干燥的皮肤需要更多的X成分。每个人都不同。我们是独特的个体。我们有完全不同于身边人的微生物群。我们喜欢不同的感觉、气味等等。所以,这就是为什么我们有这么多选择。我要说的是,如果你皮肤偏干,我们的测试者发现,皮肤科医生会说,更厚重、更封闭、更保湿、更滋润的可能是我要用的词。这些是你可能想寻找的产品。如果你是油性皮肤,你涂上那种产品,很多人会觉得“那让我油腻了”。是的。
Original English
Jen Sullivan: It's all preference. It really is. That's why we have so many choices because we want to give you options. There's no set math equation of like drier skin needs more of X ingredient. It's different for everybody. We're we're unique people. We have a whole microbiome that's completely different than the person next to us. We like different things, how they feel, how they smell, all of that. So, that's why we have so many choices. I will say if you tend to be on the drier side, our testers found this. A dermatologist would say that thicker, more occlusive, more hydrating, richer might be the word that I'm trying to use. Those are the products you might want to look for. If you have oily skin and you put that on, a lot of people come away being like, "That made me greasy." Yeah.
Rosie Garin: 所以你不想那样。是的。好的。那么说到保湿,你认为最被误解的肤质是什么?
Original English
Rosie Garin: So, you don't want that. Yeah. Okay. And when it comes to moisturizing, what do you think is the most misunderstood skin type?
Jen Sullivan: 我的意思是,我需要和皮肤科医生谈谈才能真正深入了解这一点,但对我来说,可能普遍是敏感性。敏感皮肤这个概念。我认为很多人认为他们天生就很敏感,但实际上发生的是他们环境中的某些东西,或者他们正在使用的某些产品。甚至不是护肤产品。可能是洗衣液,或者空气更干燥。
Original English
Jen Sullivan: I mean, I would talk to a dermatologist to really get into this, but for me, it's probably sensitivity in general. The idea of sensitive skin. I think a lot of people think they're inherently just so sensitive, but what's really going on is something in their environment or some product that they're using. Not even a skincare product. Could be like the laundry detergent or the air was drier. So,
Rosie Garin: 清洁产品。
Original English
Rosie Garin: Cleaning products.
Jen Sullivan: 是的。然后我们试图解决问题。我们用更多的东西来解决问题,而简化和精简可能才是解决之道。所以,我认为这是一个被误解的概念。关于润肤霜,我们还没有提到的一点是活性成分的概念。这些是治疗性成分。它们可能在你的面部乳液中,但它们是用来治疗问题的。这些是像视黄醇、肽,有时还有果酸。如果你只是想保湿,不要选择含有活性成分的产品。只需寻找保湿成分,因为这些活性成分可能会让你产生敏感性。
Original English
Jen Sullivan: Yeah. And then and then we try and fix the problem. We use more stuff to fix the problem and pairing back and making things simpler might be the fix. So, I think that's kind of a misunderstood concept. And the thing to be careful of with this moisturizer that we didn't touch on yet is the idea of active ingredients. These are the treatment ingredients. Like they might be in your face lotion, but they're for treating things. These are like retinols, peptides, sometimes alpha hydroxy acids. If you're just looking for moisture, don't pick something with actives. Just look for the hydrating ingredients because those actives can set up where you're building sensitivity.
正确涂抹润肤霜的方法
Rosie Garin: 人们在涂抹润肤霜时做错了什么?
Original English
Rosie Garin: What are people doing wrong when they're applying moisturizer?
Jen Sullivan: 我会说……
Original English
Jen Sullivan: I would say...
Kyra Blackwell: 让我们点名批评一些人。
Original English
Kyra Blackwell: Let's call some people out.
Rosie Garin: 理想情况下,如果你有任何例子,请点名。
Original English
Rosie Garin: Ideally by name if you have any uh examples.
Jen Sullivan: 哦,我们可以深入探讨。但我认为他们做错的事情是等到皮肤干燥才涂抹润肤霜。大多数人,你希望在皮肤进入干燥、脱皮、发痒的循环之前就做。所以,你希望在皮肤正常时就涂抹它,并保持水分,同时在皮肤潮湿时涂抹。我做了多年的美容编辑,一直觉得“哦,每次我尝试在潮湿的皮肤上涂抹润肤霜,它都会变得黏滑或油腻。”你们都听过这个建议,对吧?比如,确保你的皮肤在涂抹润肤霜时是潮湿的。锁住已经存在的水分。
Original English
Jen Sullivan: Oh, we could get into that. But I think that the thing they're doing wrong is waiting till they're dry to apply the moisturizer. Like most people, you want to do it before you got in a cycle of my skin is dry and flaky and itchy. So, you want to apply it when your skin is just acting normal and you want to upkeep the hydration and also do it when skin is damp. And I went through years of being a beauty editor being like, "Oh, every time I try to apply moisturizer to damp skin, it gets all slimy or filmy." You've all heard this tip, right? Like, make sure your skin's damp when you apply your moisturizer. Lock in that water that's already there.
Jen Sullivan: 所以,我咨询了所有这些皮肤科医生,最终才意识到“潮湿”这个词对很多人来说是不同的。我当时想象的是,刚洗完澡,还没擦干身体,我很潮湿。你那是湿透了。不,不。他们是说,“你可以擦干身体。只是在擦干身体后的3分钟内,你的皮肤里仍然有水分,还没有开始蒸发出去。”他们认为那才是潮湿的皮肤。所以,如果你开始尝试在湿漉漉的皮肤上,或者刚洗完澡还没擦干身体的时候涂抹润肤霜,你有没有注意到它会变得黏滑?它确实会变得黏滑。你心里想,“哦,皮肤科医生告诉我,我得在湿的时候涂。”你把润肤霜和皮肤上的水混合了。你把它稀释了。
Original English
Jen Sullivan: So, I like talked to all these dermatologists and finally come to realize the word damp is like different for many people. I was picturing like got out of the shower, didn't towel off yet. I am damp. You're wet. No. No. They're like, "You can towel off. It's just within like the 3 minutes of toweling off, there's still moisture in your skin that hasn't started evaporating out of your skin yet." They consider that to be damp skin. So, if you start trying to put moisturizer on wet skin or just out of the shower, not towel dried, haven't you noticed it gets all really? It does get slimy. You're thinking in your head, "Oh, the derms told me I got to do it while it's wet." You're mixing your moisturizer with the water on your skin. You're watering it down.
Rosie Garin: 所以,他们说的“潮湿”是指皮肤在表皮层仍然有内在的潮湿感,但摸起来可能已经干了。这有道理吗?
Original English
Rosie Garin: So, by damp, what they mean is the skin has an inherent dampness still in its like epidermis, but it might be dry to the touch. Does that make sense?
Jen Sullivan: 有道理。我今天学到了新东西。
Original English
Jen Sullivan: It does. And I learned something new today.
Jen Sullivan: 是的。我们这里谈论的是水分,但核心是水合作用。所以,除了润肤霜,你还可以做其他事情来确保你更水润。其中之一就是淋浴温度。热水确实会使你的皮肤干燥。
Original English
Jen Sullivan: Yeah. We're talking about moisture here, but the idea is hydration. So, there's things other than moisturizer that you can do to make sure you're more hydrated. And one of them is the shower temperature. Hot water really does dry out your skin.
Rosie Garin: 不,你不能拿走我的热水。
Original English
Rosie Garin: No, you can't take my hot water.
Jen Sullivan: 我知道。没人喜欢听这个。
Original English
Jen Sullivan: I know. And nobody likes to hear that.
Rosie Garin: 热水会使你的皮肤干燥。
Original English
Rosie Garin: Hot water dries out your skin.
Jen Sullivan: 绝对会。它会软化脂质层,这样你的身体会更快地流失水分。对我来说,也许是世界上最不可思议的事情,就是洗完澡,擦干身体,然后就去过一天的想法。你能想象吗?
Original English
Jen Sullivan: It absolutely does. It softens the lipid layer so that like your body loses moisture more quickly. The most incomprehensible thing to me, maybe in all of the world, is the idea of getting out of the shower, drying off, and then just going about your day. Can you imagine?
Rosie Garin: 我们有数百万人可以想象。我有时就是那样的人。那是我们的制作人Abigail。
Original English
Rosie Garin: There are millions of us that can imagine. I can some days I am that person. It's our producer Abigail.
Kyra Blackwell: 我们的制作人举手了。我们都……
Original English
Kyra Blackwell: Our producer's raising hand. We all...
Rosie Garin: 为什么?
Original English
Rosie Garin: What and why?
Jen Sullivan: 有些人感觉不到干燥,有些人没有那种感觉。这就像一种肌肉记忆。那是你的习惯。你习惯了。但有很多人就是这样过一天的。
Original English
Jen Sullivan: Some people don't feel dry and some people don't have that. It's like a muscle memory thing. That's your habit. You're used to it. But there's plenty of people that just go about their day.
年龄与荷尔蒙对皮肤的影响
Rosie Garin: 那么,年龄、怀孕、更年期等因素如何改变人们的皮肤和保湿需求呢?
Original English
Rosie Garin: How do things like age, pregnancy, menopause change people's skin? I guess number one, and moisturizing needs.
Jen Sullivan: 是的,一般来说,你年纪越大,皮肤就越干燥。他们说,你最水润的时候是在40岁之前。所以在那之后,你的皮肤就开始变得更干燥。你的皮肤不能很好地保持水分。然后就荷尔蒙如何影响你的皮肤而言,这是所有性别都会发生的事情。如果你的荷尔蒙波动,那会影响你的皮肤外观和感觉。所以,如果你有突然的变化,我会说去看皮肤科医生。可能有什么问题正在发生。
Original English
Jen Sullivan: Yeah, generally the older you get, the drier your skin gets. And they say that the most hydrated will ever be is before age 40. So after that, you're starting to get drier. Your skin doesn't retain moisture as well. And then as far as like how hormones affect your skin, this is something that happens to all genders. Like if your hormones are fluctuating, that affects how your skin looks and feels. So if you have changes that are sudden, I would say talk to a dermatologist. Like something could be going on.
Kyra Blackwell: 这很有趣。我觉得当你10岁时,也许可以调低淋浴温度。然后当你20岁时,再调低几度。当你30岁时,再调低。然后到40岁时,你就会洗温水澡。然后是冷水。你就会习惯冷水。然后你就不用担心水分流失了。
Original English
Kyra Blackwell: That's interesting. I feel like when you're 10, maybe turn down the temperature of your shower. And then when you're 20, turn it down a couple more degrees. And when you're 30, turn it down. And then by 40, you'll be tepid. And then cold water. You'll be used to cold water. And then you don't have to Yeah. worry about that moisture.
Kyra Blackwell: 好的。我来总结一下。润肤霜很重要。如果你要测试一款润肤霜,也许先在身体上测试,然后再在脸上测试。面部润肤霜和身体润肤霜。很多时候,区分两者的只是营销语言。但要在皮肤潮湿时涂抹润肤霜。就这么做吧。我们要休息一下,回来后,我们将和Jen一起打破一些迷思。此外,我们还将讨论一些你可能不知道的关键技巧,以真正锁住水分。请继续收听。
Original English
Kyra Blackwell: All right. I'm going to recap here. Moisturizer is important. And if you are going to test out a moisturizer, maybe test it out um certainly your body before face. Facial moisturizer, body moisturizer. Often times it's marketing language that's differentiating the two. But put this moisturizer on when your skin is damp. Just do it. We are going to take a quick break and when we come back, we're going to do some myth busting with Jen. Plus, we'll talk about some key techniques you may not know when it comes to really locking that moisture in. Stick around.
润肤霜的关键成分
Kyra Blackwell: 欢迎回来。我们今天的嘉宾是Wirecutter美容团队的资深编辑Jen Sullivan。今天的节目全部是关于润肤霜的。那么,Jen,当你走在药店的过道里时,有很多东西可以看。你左右看看,有各种各样的营销术语和非常漂亮的标签,你就是不知道该选什么。所以,在你的指南中提到,所有接受采访的皮肤科医生都建议寻找三种关键成分,那就是吸湿剂、润肤剂和封闭剂。你能快速解释一下这些分别是什么以及它们的作用吗?
Original English
Kyra Blackwell: Welcome back. Our guest today is Jen Sullivan, a senior editor on Wirecutter's beauty team. Today's episode is all about moisturizer. So, Jen, when you're walking down a drugstore aisle, there's so much to take in. You look left and right and there are all these marketing terms and all these really pretty labels and you just don't know what to pick. So, in your guide, it mentions that every dermatologist who was interviewed recommended looking for three key ingredients and that's humectants, emollients, and occlusives. Can you just break down quickly what each of these are and basically what they do?
Jen Sullivan: 吸湿剂能将水分吸引到皮肤上,无论是从皮肤深层还是从环境中。封闭剂能锁住水分,而润肤剂实际上是皮肤软化剂。有些吸湿剂也可以是润肤剂。有些封闭剂也可以是润肤剂,但这些都是能让你的皮肤感觉更好的东西。
Original English
Jen Sullivan: Humectants attract moisture to the skin either from deeper in the skin or from you know the environment. Occlusives lock in moisture and then emollients are actually skin softeners. Some of the humectants can be an emollient. Some of the occlusives can be an emollient but these are the things that sort of make your skin feel better.
Kyra Blackwell: 好的。每种润肤霜的标签上都会写明这些吗?
Original English
Kyra Blackwell: Okay. Will it say that on the label for each moisturizer?
Jen Sullivan: 不会。但吸湿剂,再说一次,那些吸引水分的东西是像甘油和透明质酸这样的成分。
Original English
Jen Sullivan: It won't. But a humectant, again, the things that attract moisture are things like glycerin and hyaluronic acid.
Kyra Blackwell: 好的。
Original English
Kyra Blackwell: Okay.
Jen Sullivan: 封闭剂是那些锁住水分的。这对我来说很有道理。它们就像油。它们是更厚重的,是植物油、乳木果油、凡士林,那些如果你大量涂抹,就会形成一层保护屏障的成分。那些就是封闭剂成分。然后是润肤剂,那些皮肤软化剂。
Original English
Jen Sullivan: An occlusive is that those are the locking in ones. This kind of makes sense to me. They're like the oils. They're the thicker ones. They're the plant oils, the shea butters, the petrolatum, the ones that like if you slathered it on, it would make like a protective barrier. Those are the occlusive ingredients. And then the emollients, those skin softeners,
Jen Sullivan: 再说一次,我刚才提到的一些东西也可以是润肤剂,但像角鲨烷这样的东西才是真正的润肤剂。
Original English
Jen Sullivan: Again, some of the things I just mentioned can also be emollient, but something like squalane is like a true emollient.
Kyra Blackwell: 明白了。通常你不需要看标签寻找这些成分中的任何一种,因为它们很可能总是含有这三种成分。
Original English
Kyra Blackwell: Got it. And usually when you like you don't have to look at the label and look for any one of these things because the odds are that they always have all three.
Jen Sullivan: 是的。你只需查看我们的Wirecutter指南,因为我们所有的推荐产品都含有这三种成分。
Original English
Jen Sullivan: Yes. And you can just go to our Wirecutter guide because all of our picks have all three,
Kyra Blackwell: 对吧?你为我们做了这些工作。
Original English
Kyra Blackwell: Right? And you do the work for us.
营销术语的真相
Jen Sullivan: 是的。真是个巧妙的广告。那么,在药店的美容区,你还可能看到或听到哪些流行的营销流行语?
Original English
Jen Sullivan: Yeah. What a what a cheeky plug. Um what are some other popular marketing buzzwords that you might see or hear in the drugstore beauty aisle?
Kyra Blackwell: 那些听起来很重要但实际上可能并非如此的东西。我们有多少时间?
Original English
Kyra Blackwell: Things that might sound important but actually maybe aren't. How long do we have?
Jen Sullivan: 随你便。
Original English
Jen Sullivan: As much as as much time as you want.
Jen Sullivan: 这些产品的名称,它们有15个词那么长,它们很复杂,能提亮,然后我们有精华液,我们有这个那个,这些都是营销。这些术语中的大多数都没有受到监管。让我困扰的一个是“医疗级”。化妆品就是化妆品,它不是药品。“医疗级”在护肤方面没有任何意义。“天然”是另一个。天然没有任何意义。甘油听起来像是“哦,感觉像化学课”,它可以来自天然来源,但我理解我们想要感觉更天然的东西的本能,感觉我没有在身体上涂抹不必要的产品。所以,我认为这就是为什么公司如此频繁地使用这个词。他们自己可能会将其定义为来自植物来源的东西,但政府没有对此进行监管。所以,这取决于公司如何定义这个词。
Original English
Jen Sullivan: The names of these products, they're like 15 words long and they're have a complex and it brightens and then we've got essences and we've got this and that and it's all marketing. The majority of those terms are not regulated. The one that gets me is medical grade. A cosmetic is a cosmetic. It is not a medicine. Medical grade means nothing with regards to skincare. Natural is another one. Natural means nothing. Glycerin is like, "Oo, it feels like chemistry class." can be from a natural source, but I get our instinct to want something that feels more natural, feels like I'm not putting an unnecessary product on my body. So, I think that's why companies use that word so much. And they might themselves define it as something that came from a plant-based source, but there's no regulation in the government as to what that means. So, it depends on how the company is defining the word themselves,
Kyra Blackwell: 对吧?我觉得“植物基”是另一个你经常看到的词,但如果没有监管,就很难知道,除非你深入挖掘。对。
Original English
Kyra Blackwell: Right? I plant-based is another thing that you see I feel like and it's without regulation it's hard to know unless you go digging. Right.
Jen Sullivan: 正确。比如角鲨烷可以是植物基的。它可以来自橄榄。那是植物基的。听起来不像椰子油那样真正是植物基的。
Original English
Jen Sullivan: Correct. Like squalane can be plant-based. It can come from olives. That's plant-based. Doesn't really sound like something like coconut oil which sounds truly plant-based.
昂贵润肤霜的价值
Rosie Garin: 对吧,Jen?我们指南中的大多数产品都是经济实惠的药店品牌。它们非常实惠。你不会因为经常购买而感到心疼,因为你没有花很多钱。但也有几款不是。它们可能贵100美元。你有一款,我想是Augustinus Bader Rich Cream,听起来就很贵,大概300美元。为什么有人会花那么多钱买一个可以便宜得多的产品?
Original English
Rosie Garin: Right, Jen? Most of the pics in our guide are affordable drugstore brands. They're very affordable. Like you won't feel bad about buying them on the regular because you're not spending a bunch of money. But there are a couple that just aren't. They are maybe $100 more. You have one, I think it's the Augustinus Bader Rich Cream, which sounds expensive and it's like $300. Why would somebody pay that much for something that they could get for much cheaper?
Jen Sullivan: 因为他们买得起。
Original English
Jen Sullivan: Because they can afford to.
Jen Sullivan: 说真的,我认为你想要使用的、你喜欢的润肤霜,是基于你的预算、你正在寻找什么、以及你会一次又一次地选择什么。我要说的是,那些试用过这款产品的测试者几乎都喜欢它。这是一种奢华的体验。是的。就像你想要感觉良好一样。这和你的食物、衣服或其他任何东西都一样。你可以支付各种不同的价格。这取决于你自己的预算、你自己的选择、你想把钱花在哪里。所以,我的意思是,我不会评判这一点。而且那个产品非常可爱。
Original English
Jen Sullivan: Truly, I think the moisturizer you want to use and that you like is based on what is my budget, what am I looking for, what I what am I going to know I reach for again and again. I will say the testers that tried that product pretty much all loved it. It's a luxurious experience. Yeah. And like you want to feel good. It's the same with like your food or your clothes or whatever. There's all levels that you can pay for. It's based on your own budget, your own choices, where you want to put your money. So, I mean, I wouldn't judge that. And that product is quite lovely.
Kyra Blackwell: 但是什么让它比其他产品更可爱呢?
Original English
Kyra Blackwell: But what makes it loveier than the rest?
Jen Sullivan: 他们讲述的关于它的故事,它所用的瓶子。你知道,它有一些你可能在其他产品中找不到的专利成分。也许其中一个当你涂在皮肤上时,你会觉得“这解决了我的所有问题”。
Original English
Jen Sullivan: The story that they're telling about it, the bottle that it's in. You know, it has some proprietary ingredients you might not find in others. Maybe one of those when you put it on your skin, you were like, "This is the thing that solved all my problems."
Rosie Garin: 如果那就是你,而且那个产品让你的生活更美好,那就去用吧。
Original English
Rosie Garin: And if that's you and that product is making your life better, go for it.
Kyra Blackwell: 我喜欢这个。好的。我不会那样做,但我很欣赏。
Original English
Kyra Blackwell: I like that. Okay. I'm not doing that, but I appreciate.
Rosie Garin: 而且测试,测试是盲测的,对吗?所以,
Original English
Rosie Garin: And the testing, the testing is brand concealed, right? So,
Jen Sullivan: 这取决于指南。我们有时会进行两个级别的测试。我们首先让我们的指南撰写者亲自测试,他们知道品牌是什么,然后他们为其他人进行盲测。所以,这完全取决于我们谈论的是哪份指南。身体乳液。我们还有沐浴露、肥皂。我的意思是,肥皂很难进行盲测,但是的。
Original English
Jen Sullivan: It depends on the guide. We sometimes do two levels of testing. We first have our guide writer test it themselves, and they know what the brands are, and then they brand conceal it for others. So, it all depends on which guide we're talking about. Body lotions. We also have shower gels, soaps. I mean, soaps was kind of hard to brand conceal, but yeah,
Rosie Garin: 不过,这款300美元的润肤霜,我的意思是,如果它是盲测的,而且人们都喜欢它,那它就很有吸引力。
Original English
Rosie Garin: This $300 moisturizer, though, I mean, I feel like if it's brand concealed and people are loving it, it's compelling.
Jen Sullivan: 是的。
Original English
Jen Sullivan: Yeah.
Rosie Garin: 如果你有300美元可以尝试。
Original English
Rosie Garin: If you have $300 to try.
Jen Sullivan: 我的意思是,对很多人来说,也关乎质地。有时,如果公司投入更多的钱,他们就能创造出更好的质地,因为他们使用了在原材料层面成本更高的成分。我不会说这种差异是从10美元到300美元。但再说一次,这些公司不仅仅为产品中的原材料付费。所有那些营销,也许你是因为在Instagram上看到了那个产品才听说它的。它不是凭空出现的。背后有营销预算。所以通常情况下,对于更昂贵的产品,你支付的可能略微是更高的商品成本,但绝对是包装,因为包装可能更重,或者是玻璃的,或者看起来更漂亮。当然还有营销,比如“哦,我听说某某人用了它”或者“为什么它总是出现在我的动态里?”这就是你所支付的。
Original English
Jen Sullivan: I mean, it's about texture for a lot of people, too. Sometimes with a bit more money, a company could create a better texture because they're using ingredients that cost more at raw material level. I I won't say that difference is from $10 to $300. But again, these companies are paying not just for the raw materials that are in the product. All that marketing, maybe you heard about that product because you saw it on Instagram. That didn't get there out of nowhere. There was a marketing budget put behind it. So often times for a more expensive product, what you're paying for maybe slightly is the cost of goods being more, but definitely the packaging because the packaging is like heavier or it's glass or it looks more beautiful. And definitely the marketing of like, oh, I heard so and so uses it or why is it always on my feed? And that is what you're paying for.
香精与无香精产品
Rosie Garin: 所以质地是人们考虑的一个因素。另一个是气味。我想象的是香精。这在测试中是如何考虑的?你对此有什么看法?对很多人来说,这是一个巨大的因素。一般来说,如果你是敏感肌,皮肤科医生会说要寻找无香精产品,这意味着没有添加香精。如果你翻过来看,你不会在成分标签上看到“parfum”或“fragrance”这个词,因为这些可能会引起刺激。但它们并非对所有人都刺激。所以,我们有些人喜欢香味,因为它鼓励我们使用。所以,它们可能含有香精,但这并不意味着它对你不好。除非它引起你的刺激,否则没有内在问题。所以,我们有无香精的推荐产品,也有传统的、可能含有香精的产品。
Original English
Rosie Garin: So texture is a consideration for folks. Another thing is how something smells. So what I imagine is fragrance. How did that factor into the testing? And what are your thoughts there? Huge factor for a lot of people. Generally speaking, if you have sensitive skin, dermatologists say to look for fragrance-free products, which means there's no added fragrance. If you turn them over, you won't see the word parfum or fragrance on the ingredient label because these can be irritating. They're not irritating for all people, though. So, some of us like a scent because it encourages us to use it. So, they might have fragrance in them, and that doesn't mean it's bad for you. There's no inherent problem with it, unless it causes you irritation. So, we have picks that are both fragrance-free and those that also are just traditional and might have a fragrance in them.
Kyra Blackwell: 我想无味不等于无香精。
Original English
Kyra Blackwell: And I imagine unscented is not fragrance free.
Jen Sullivan: 哦,不。有很大的区别。无香精意味着里面没有香精添加剂,这意味着有时当你闻产品时,你会闻到一些味道,因为你闻到的是那些润肤剂的味道。例如,乳木果油本身就有气味。如果你没有添加额外的香精或掩盖香精,你就会闻到乳木果油的味道,但它仍然是无香精的。无味则不同。那就像他们可能只添加一种香精来掩盖那种气味,使其达到中性状态。所以,它闻起来好像没什么味道,但这并不意味着它是无香精的。里面有添加剂,仍然可能引起刺激。
Original English
Jen Sullivan: Oh, no. There's a big difference. Fragrance-free means like no fragrance additives in there, which means actually sometimes when you smell the product, you'll smell something because you're smelling those moisturizers. Shea, for example, has a scent to it. And if you didn't add extra fragrances or masking fragrances, you're going to smell the shea, but it will still be fragrance-free. Unscented is different. That's like they might only add a fragrance that masks that she smell to get them to a neutral place. So, it kind of doesn't smell like anything, but that doesn't mean it's fragrance-free. There is that additive in there and it can still be causing irritation.
Kyra Blackwell: 明白了。我认为重要的是回到这个观点,即香精可能不是问题。比如,你可能没有敏感肌。这有点像是缩小范围,找出你的皮肤想要什么,不想要什么。有时,唯一的方法就是进行30天的持续测试,找出问题所在。
Original English
Kyra Blackwell: Got it. I think it it is important back to this idea that fragrance might not be an issue. Like, you might not have sensitive skin. It's sort of narrowing down what your skin wants and what it doesn't want. And sometimes the only way to do that is to sort of do that consistent testing for 30 days and figure out what's going on.
Jen Sullivan: 完全正确。不同的香精对人们的影响也不同。所以,如果你尝试了一种有香味或香精产品,你不喜欢它,这并不立即意味着任何含有香精的东西都对你不好,或者不适合你。我喜欢它。
Original English
Jen Sullivan: Exactly. And different fragrances affect people differently. So, if you try one scented or fragrance product and you don't like it, doesn't immediately mean anything with fragrance is bad for you or it won't be good for you. I love it.
专家推荐与身体油的误区
Rosie Garin: 你用哪一款?你最喜欢我们指南中的哪款润肤霜?
Original English
Rosie Garin: Which one do you use? What's your favorite moisturizer from our guide?
Jen Sullivan: Outset的润肤霜是我最喜欢的面部和身体润肤霜。
Original English
Jen Sullivan: The Outset's moisturizer is my favorite face and body.
Kyra Blackwell: 嗯,不。它瓶子比较小,所以我不会用在身体上。不打折的时候是44美元。所以,这也是我不会用在身体上的另一个原因。嗯,但我真的很喜欢它。实际上,我六个月前才开始在Wirecutter工作,当我来到这里时,我非常高兴它已经是Wirecutter的推荐产品了,我当时想,“是的,有道理。”但它含有角鲨烷。它感觉恰到好处,不轻薄也不油腻。它是一个漂亮的玻璃瓶泵,包装简洁。嗯,我每天都用它。
Original English
Kyra Blackwell: Um, no. It's a smaller bottle, so I would not use it on my body. It's $44 when it's not on sale. So, that's another reason I would not use it on my body. Um, but I really like it. Actually, I started at Wirecutter just 6 months ago and I was so thrilled when I got here that that was already a Wirecutter pick and I was like, "Yes, justified." But it has squalane in it. It feels right down middle of the road. Not too light, not too greasy. It's nice glass bottle pump, simple packaging. Um, I use it every day.
Rosie Garin: 喜欢一个更便宜的选择:Vanicream。
Original English
Rosie Garin: Love for a less expensive option. Vanicream.
Jen Sullivan: 是的,我们喜欢Vanicream。
Original English
Jen Sullivan: Yeah, we love a van.
Kyra Blackwell: 为Vanicream点赞。
Original English
Kyra Blackwell: Shout out to Vanicream.
Jen Sullivan: 是的。
Original English
Jen Sullivan: Yeah.
Rosie Garin: 是的,对我个人来说。是的。那身体油呢?我在药店见过这些,我在Instagram上见过这些,我在浴室里见过这些。
Original English
Rosie Garin: Yeah, for me personally. Yeah. What about body oils? I've seen these in the drugstore. I've seen these on Instagram. I've seen these in bathrooms of
Jen Sullivan: 我的意思是,我见过人们在TikTok视频中谈论你在保湿程序中应该采取的步骤。你必须先涂乳霜,然后用油锁住水分,然后你必须在皮肤潮湿的时候做所有这些。是的,那怎么样?
Original English
Jen Sullivan: I mean, I've seen people Tik Tok videos about like the steps that you should take in your just your moisturizing routine. You have to do creamy and then you have to lock in with an oil like and then you have to do it all while you're damp. Like, yeah, what about that?
Jen Sullivan: 油不具有保湿作用。我认为很多人也认为润肤霜就像我可以直接使用凡士林,或者我可以直接使用瓶装的橄榄油。那些是封闭剂,我们之前谈到过。它们是皮肤保护剂。它们敷在皮肤表面,将水分锁在里面。但如果你把它们涂在干燥的皮肤上,你锁住的是什么水分呢?你一开始就没有补充水分。所以现在你只是锁住了干燥的皮肤。你在保护你的皮肤。所以它可能看起来更柔软,感觉更柔软,但本质上,在那个封闭剂下面,它是干燥的。所以,我认为你看到的是营销人员希望你先涂润肤霜,然后用油锁住它。但回到一款好的润肤霜,它本身就已经含有一些封闭剂成分了。我喜欢用荷荷巴油,因为它很便宜,而且即使我旅行时也能随时用到。这种特殊的油,这就是让人困惑的地方,它既是吸湿剂又是封闭剂。而且我相信你可能已经注意到它具有润肤特性,因为它能软化你的皮肤。但当你使用多种不同类型的我们谈论过的这些成分时,你会获得更持久的水合作用,我认为会更有效。所以,它肯定有效。如果它对你有效,就继续使用。我喜欢身体油,尤其是在户外活动时。我喜欢滑雪。我喜欢在冬天徒步旅行。我会先涂润肤霜,然后涂一层封闭剂,比如Aquaphor或凡士林,就像我们之前谈论的凡士林,或者面部油。Outset有一款面部油,我在冬天会添加,或者你说的那些身体油。我认为很多人会感觉更舒服。他们的皮肤感觉更好。当他们多做这一步时,他们就不会有那种发痒的紧绷感。理论上,你确实是在锁住你涂抹的任何润肤霜。这是一个额外的步骤,不一定需要,但它确实是……
Original English
Jen Sullivan: Oils are not hydrating. I think there's a lot of people also that look at like moisturizer like I could just use petroleum jelly or I could just use olive oil from the bottle. Those are occlusives which we talked about earlier. They're skin protectants. They lay down on the top of the skin and keep the moisture in there. But if you put them on dry skin, what moisture are you keeping in? You never put the moisture in to begin with. So now you've just locked in dry skin. You're protecting your skin. So it might seem softer and it might have an emollient factor. So it like looks softer, feels softer, but inherently underneath that occlusive, it's dry. So I think what you're seeing is marketers would like you to put the moisturizer on and then lock it in with an oil. But going back to a good moisturizer, it's going to have some of those occlusive ingredients already in it. I like to do something with Jojoba oil because it's very cheap and I always have access to it even when I'm traveling. That particular oil, and this is where it gets confusing, is both a humectant and an occlusive. And I'm sure you've probably noticed that it has an emollient property because it's softening your skin. But when you use multiple different kinds of these ingredients we talked about, you're getting a longer-lasting kind of hydration and I think it would be more effective. So, it definitely works. And if it's working for you, keep doing it. I love a body oil and especially when I'm outdoors. I like skiing. I like hiking in the winter. I will put on moisturizer and then put a layer of an occlusive such as Aquaphor or Vaseline as we were talking about petroleum jelly or a face oil. The Outset has a face oil I add in in winter or the body oils you were talking about. And I think a lot of people feel more comfortable. Their skin just feels nicer to them. They don't have that like itchy tightness when they do that extra step. And theoretically, you're you are kind of locking in whatever you've put on as a moisturizer. It's an additional step and it might not be needed necessarily, but it is...
Rosie Garin: 一个额外的锁,对吧?
Original English
Rosie Garin: An extra lock, right?
Jen Sullivan: 是的。这在某种程度上是一种价值主张,因为它能锁住你补充的水分,而不是一天涂七次润肤霜,因为我总是觉得干燥,不知道为什么,然后又涂回去。如果你早上用油锁住水分,那可能对你有用。
Original English
Jen Sullivan: Yeah. It's a value proposition in a way because it keeps in that moisture you put in and instead of applying moisturizer seven times throughout the day because I keep getting dry and I don't know why and I put it back on. If you locked it in in the morning with the oil on top, that might work for you.
Rosie Garin: 我不想忽略你在本期节目中一直强调的一点,那就是Aquaphor或凡士林不是润肤霜。
Original English
Rosie Garin: And I don't want to fly by something that you've been pointing out throughout this episode, which is that Aquaphor or petroleum jelly is not a moisturizer.
Jen Sullivan: 是的。Aquaphor不是纯凡士林。它还有一些其他成分,但那些被称为皮肤保护剂。是的。它们本身不保湿。它们像我们说的,锁住水分。
Original English
Jen Sullivan: Yeah. Aquaphor isn't pure petroleum jelly. It has some other ingredients, but those skin protectants they're called. Yeah. They don't moisturize inherently. They lock in the moisture like we said.
Kyra Blackwell: 哦,天哪。我一直在给女儿洗完澡后涂Aquaphor,以为那就是她需要的水分,她需要的润肤霜。
Original English
Kyra Blackwell: So, oh my gosh. I've been just putting Aquaphor on my daughter's body after like bath time and thinking that that is the moisture that she needs, the moisturizer that she needs.
Jen Sullivan: 她洗澡后皮肤里可能有水分,而且她自己的皮肤有油腺。它有自己的脂质屏障和脂质层。我们的皮肤自然含有保湿剂。它们被称为天然保湿因子。所以你确实锁住了一些东西。但我认为对很多人来说,如果他们仍然干燥,并且一直涂抹Aquaphor。是的。
Original English
Jen Sullivan: She might have water in her skin from that bath and she has her own like skin has oil glands. It has its own lipid barrier and layer. Like there's moisturizers in our skin naturally. Natural moisturizing factors they're called. So you are locking in something. But I think for a lot of people if they're still dry and they keep slathering on, you know, an Aquaphor. Yeah.
Kyra Blackwell: 就让你的宝宝皮肤干燥吧。
Original English
Kyra Blackwell: Just let your baby be ashy.
Jen Sullivan: 不。那先给她保湿。
Original English
Jen Sullivan: No. Then moisturize her first.
Kyra Blackwell: 现在我们知道了。
Original English
Kyra Blackwell: Now we know.
Jen Sullivan: 把这个记在心里。
Original English
Jen Sullivan: Slip that into my back pocket.
护肤步骤顺序
Rosie Garin: 我们可以谈谈操作顺序吗?
Original English
Rosie Garin: Can we talk order of operations?
Jen Sullivan: 我们谈到了洗完澡、泡完澡,无论怎样,皮肤潮湿,然后是润肤霜。但是日常护肤程序有哪些选择,推荐的顺序是什么?
Original English
Jen Sullivan: We spoke about getting out of the shower, getting out of the tub, whatever. damp skin and then a moisturizer. But what are the options in terms of a routine and what order is recommended?
Jen Sullivan: 最基本的思考方式是从薄到厚。先用稀薄的产品,先用治疗性产品。如果你使用视黄醇,那会在护肤过程的早期。然后是你的厚重产品,比如润肤霜。最后,如果你想要用油,那比乳液类的润肤霜更厚。最后一步总是防晒霜。但再说一次,我不知道有多少人,我的意思是,我一天用两样东西,所以我不知道有多少。我认为这会变得越来越复杂。
Original English
Jen Sullivan: The basic way to think about it is thinnest to thickest. Thin products first, treatment products first. If you use a retinol, that would be like lower down earlier in the process. Then your thicker products like a moisturizer. And then at the end, if maybe if you wanted the oil, that's thicker than a moisturizer like a lotion. And then the last one's always sunscreen. But again, I don't know how many pe I mean, I use like two things a day, so I don't know how many. I think this gets more complicated the more.
Rosie Garin: 你会遵循从薄到厚的顺序吗?是的,我认为人们担心……
Original English
Rosie Garin: And do you follow that from thinnest to thickest? Yeah, that's I think people are worried like
Jen Sullivan: 皮肤棒极了。
Original English
Jen Sullivan: Fantastic skin.
Rosie Garin: 谢谢。我为此付出了努力。我认为人们担心,哦,如果我以错误的顺序做,它会抵消另一个的效果。那不是真的。我不会担心那个。这更多是为了皮肤的舒适度,并确保它们不会搓泥,也就是当它们形成那种小小的像橡皮泥球一样的东西时。我脑子里是这样想的。
Original English
Rosie Garin: Thank you. I work hard at it. I think people get worried like, oh, if I do it in the wrong order, it's going to negate the effects of the other one. That's not really a thing. I wouldn't worry about that. It's more for uh comfort of skin and to make sure that they don't peel, which is when they get that little gummy like rubber cement balls. I think of it in my head.
Kyra Blackwell: 我不喜欢那样。
Original English
Kyra Blackwell: I don't like that.
Jen Sullivan: 是的,没人喜欢那样。所以,如果发生这种情况,你也要放慢速度。比如你涂了东西,让它完全吸收,然后再涂下一个。
Original English
Jen Sullivan: Yeah, nobody likes that. So, if that's happening, you want to like slow down as well. Like you put something on, let it fully absorb and wait to put on the next.
Rosie Garin: 那是我的另一个问题。没有一个标准的时间。你只需要让它吸收。
Original English
Rosie Garin: That was going to be my other question. There's not like a standard amount of time. You just got to let it absorb.
Jen Sullivan: 并不是真的有标准。比如我听说过,哦,每种产品之间等一分钟。我没有那个时间。我不会在镜子前坐满60秒。你知道60秒有多长吗?不。所以,我认为只有当你遇到搓泥问题时才需要等待。再说一次,即使等待有时也无法解决这个问题。如果你化妆,那可能会让事情变得复杂。所以,你可能需要尝试一下。但一般来说,如果你等待,你就不太可能出现搓泥现象。但除此之外,你不需要在这些步骤之间等待很长时间。我不知道这是否是一个公平的问题,但化妆通常是在保湿程序之后吗?
Original English
Jen Sullivan: It's not really standard. Like I've heard like, oh, wait a minute between every product. I don't have I don't have that time. I'm not sitting in front of a mirror for 60 full seconds. Do you know how long 60 seconds is? No. So, I think it's only if you're having that pilling issue. And again, even waiting might sometimes not fix that issue. And if you wear makeup, that might throw a wrench in things. So, you might want to play around with that. But generally, if you wait, you'll be less likely to have that pilling effect. But other than that, you don't necessarily have to wait a long time between these steps. I don't know if this is a fair question, but does makeup often come after this moisturizing routine?
Jen Sullivan: 对大多数人来说,我会说他们会先进行护肤程序或保湿,因为润肤霜为粉底等产品打下了一个很好的基础。我们刚刚发布了我们的粉底指南,我们让每个人在完成他们常规的护肤程序后测试它们,无论那对他们意味着什么。所以,是的,它会在之后进行。
Original English
Jen Sullivan: For most people, I would say they're putting they're doing their skincare routine or moisturizing because moisturizer makes a nice base for like something like a foundation. We just came out with our foundation guide um and we had everybody test them after they did their their regular skincare routine, whatever that meant to them. So, yes, it would come afterwards.
Kyra Blackwell: 明白了。好的。
Original English
Kyra Blackwell: Got it. Okay.
润肤霜之外的保湿方法
Kyra Blackwell: 那么,Jen,如果你使用的是适合你皮肤的润肤霜,但你仍然觉得不够水润怎么办?你还能做些什么?
Original English
Kyra Blackwell: So, Jen, what if you are using the right moisturizer for your skin supposedly, but you just you feel like you're just not hydrated enough? What are some other things that you could do?
Jen Sullivan: 这是一个很好的问题,因为我认为我们经常只是寻求产品来解决我们遇到的任何问题。但比如吃好的脂肪,确保你摄入足够的水分,这会有帮助。洗稍微凉一点的澡。我不是在告诉任何人。是的。好的。那可能会有帮助。但这些环境因素,晚上加一个加湿器,比如如果你周围的空气干燥,更湿润的空气,加湿器也能真正帮助。
Original English
Jen Sullivan: This is a great question because I think we often just reach for a product to fix whatever's going on with us. But like eating good fats, making sure you're hydrated, that will help with it. Taking a slightly cooler shower. I'm not tell telling anyone. Yeah. Okay. That might help. But these environmental factors, adding a humidifier at night, like if the air around you is dry, more moist air, a humidifier could really help as well.
护肤迷思大揭秘
Kyra Blackwell: 好的,我们来打破一些迷思。对或错?你应该根据季节更换你的润肤霜。
Original English
Kyra Blackwell: Okay, let's do a little myth busting. True or false? You should switch up your moisturizer based on the season.
Jen Sullivan: 我会说这取决于你和你的皮肤。有些人可能不需要这样做。
Original English
Jen Sullivan: I'm going to go with depends on you and your skin. Some people might not need to do that.
Kyra Blackwell: 嗯,我倾向于在冬天使用更厚重的润肤霜,因为我的皮肤会变得更干燥,但这完全取决于你的偏好和肤质。
Original English
Kyra Blackwell: Um, I tend to find a thicker moisturizer in the winter because my skin gets drier, but it's all depending on your preferences and your skin type.
Kyra Blackwell: 明白了。好的。对或错?你应该购买单独的眼霜,因为面部润肤霜不足以紧致那个区域。
Original English
Kyra Blackwell: Got it. All right. True or false? You should buy a separate eye cream because facial moisturizer doesn't do enough to firm up that area on its own.
Jen Sullivan: 一个快速澄清,“紧致”不是润肤霜的作用。它保湿,它补水。它不一定会让皮肤感觉更紧致。
Original English
Jen Sullivan: One quick clarification, firm up isn't something that a moisturizer does. It moisturizes, it hydrates. It's not necessarily like making skin feel firmer and tighter.
Kyra Blackwell: 眼霜在做什么?
Original English
Kyra Blackwell: What is an eye cream doing?
Jen Sullivan: 眼霜。所以,如果你的润肤霜可以用在眼睛周围,假设你的眼睛周围干燥,而且你可以在没有任何刺激的情况下将润肤霜涂到那里,你可能就不需要眼霜。有些人不能。他们需要更温和的配方。但很多眼霜,我们现在正在测试眼霜和治疗产品,很多眼霜是针对特定问题的,比如我有一些细纹和纹理。我有黑眼圈。我有浮肿。我有松弛。这些是你需要的东西。我之前谈到的活性成分,就像你的润肤霜,但里面多加了一点东西来解决这些需求。其中一个需求可能是保湿。比如,我的眼部区域需要额外的水分。那么也许是的,你可能需要眼霜。
Original English
Jen Sullivan: An eye cream. So, if your moisturizer can go around your eyes, say you have dryness around your eyes, and you can get your moisturizer up there without any sort of irritation, you might not need an eye cream. Some people can't. They need a gentler formula. But a lot of the eye creams, and we're actually working on testing eye creams and treatments right now, a lot of them are for specific concerns, like I have a little bit of fine lines and texture. I have a darker under eye circle. I have puffiness. I have saggginess. Those are the things that you're going to need. Actives I talked about earlier, like it's your moisturizer, but with a little extra something in to address that need. And one of those needs could be hydration. Like, I need extra moisture in my eye area. Then maybe yeah, you would need an eye cream.
Kyra Blackwell: 对或错?你不能过度保湿你的皮肤。
Original English
Kyra Blackwell: True or false? You cannot over moisturize your skin.
Jen Sullivan: 我的意思是,你不能淹没你的皮肤,但我会说错,因为如果你涂抹过多的润肤霜,你感觉油腻,或者你看到你的皮肤正在爆痘,也许你造成了一些毛孔堵塞,你正在长一些痤疮类型的痘痘,你可能就是过度保湿了。所以,那是有可能的。
Original English
Jen Sullivan: I mean, you can't drown your skin, but I would say false because if you're putting on too much moisturizer and you're feeling greasy or you see your skin is uh breaking out, maybe you've caused like some clogged pores there and you're getting some acne type bumps, you might be over moisturizing. So, that could be possible.
Kyra Blackwell: 好的。对或错?如果你涂抹在皮肤上时有刺痛感,那就是它正在起作用的标志。
Original English
Kyra Blackwell: All right. True or false? If it tingles when you apply it to your skin, that's how you know it's working.
Jen Sullivan: 我会说错,因为我认为人们觉得除非他们能感觉到它在起作用,否则它就什么也没做。在某些情况下,有刺痛感是没问题的,但在很多情况下,刺痛感是你正在刺激皮肤的标志。那就是那种刺痛感。所以,它实际上可能是一件坏事。留意刺痛感。我不会让你问最后一个问题,Kyra,因为我从本期节目中仔细听Jen的话,已经知道答案了。问题本来是对或错:Aquaphor是最好的润肤霜。它不仅不是最好的润肤霜,它根本就不是润肤霜。
Original English
Jen Sullivan: I'm going to say I'm going to say false because I think people think it does nothing unless they can feel it doing something. And in some cases, it's fine to have the tingle, but in many cases, the tingle is a sign that you are irritating your skin. That's what that tingle is. So, it might actually be a bad thing. Keep an eye on the tingle. I'm not going to let you ask this last question, uh, Kyra, because I already know the answer to it from carefully listening to Jen throughout this episode. And the question was going to be true or false. Aquaphor is the best moisturizer. Not only is it not the best moisturizer, it's not a moisturizer at all.
Rosie Garin: 润肤霜。
Original English
Rosie Garin: Moisturizer.
Kyra Blackwell: 我们都学到了一些东西。
Original English
Kyra Blackwell: We all learned something.
Jen Sullivan: 我们今天都学到了一些东西。
Original English
Jen Sullivan: We all learned something here today.
嘉宾的最后推荐
Kyra Blackwell: 好的。那么,我们到了最后一个问题。Jen,在我们结束之前,我们总是问嘉宾一个最后的问题,那就是你最近买的你真正喜欢的东西是什么?不一定是Wirecutter的推荐产品。
Original English
Kyra Blackwell: Okay. So, we've gotten to our last question. Jen, before we wrap, we always ask our guests one final question, which is, what's the last thing you've bought that you've really loved? Does not have to be a Wirecutter pick.
Jen Sullivan: 实际上是我现在穿的这双鞋。这是节目中我要抱怨我的脚疼的部分。我的脚一直都很疼。
Original English
Jen Sullivan: It's actually these shoes I'm wearing right now. This is the part of the show where I'm just going to complain about my feet hurt. My feet hurt. all the time.
Rosie Garin: 明白了。
Original English
Rosie Garin: Get it?
Jen Sullivan: 所以在夏天,我是勃肯鞋(Birkenstock)爱好者,但冬天不能穿勃肯鞋。我也喜欢FitFlops。
Original English
Jen Sullivan: And so in the summer, I'm a Birkenstock person, but you can't wear Birkenstocks in the winter. And I also like FitFlops. FitFlops.
Kyra Blackwell: FitFlops。
Original English
Kyra Blackwell: FitFlops.
Rosie Garin: FitFlop是什么?
Original English
Rosie Garin: What is a FitFlop?
Jen Sullivan: FitFlop是一个品牌名称,指这种看起来像矫形凉鞋的鞋子。这就是一双FitFlop。所以我的脚下有FitFlop的鞋底,非常舒适,但它看起来像……
Original English
Jen Sullivan: A FitFlop is a brand name for this like orthopedic looking kind of sandal. This is a FitFlop. So it has the FitFlop base on under my foot, so it's real comfortable, but then it looks like
Kyra Blackwell: 像一双马丁靴。它看起来像一双马丁靴,那是另一种鞋,但马丁靴很重。这太荒谬了。我现在就把鞋脱下来。摸摸这个东西。看看它看起来多么大和笨重。
Original English
Kyra Blackwell: A Doc It looks like a Doc Martens. It looks like a Doc, which is another shoe that like they Doc Martens are heavy, though. This is ridiculous. I'm getting my shoe off right now. Feel this thing. for how big and chunky this looks.
Rosie Garin: 它有一个双层鞋底。
Original English
Rosie Garin: It is like a two-tiered soul
Jen Sullivan: 而且它真的很轻。它就像Crocs一样轻。
Original English
Jen Sullivan: And it's really light. It's really It's like light as a croc.
Kyra Blackwell: 所以,FitFlops也一样,如果你总是脚痛,可以试试它们。
Original English
Kyra Blackwell: So, FitFlops also if you have Yeah. feet that are always in pain, try them.
Rosie Garin: 那么,型号是什么?
Original English
Rosie Garin: So, what's the model?
Jen Sullivan: 这款FitFlop的型号是F-Mode Leather Platform Chelsea Boot。所以,它看起来像一双切尔西靴,配有厚实的厚底鞋底和FitFlop的鞋底。它还会让你增高。
Original English
Jen Sullivan: The model of this FitFlop is the F-Mode Leather Platform Chelsea Boot. So, it looks like a Chelsea boot with a chunky platform sole and this FitFlop base. It's going to give you some height, too.
Kyra Blackwell: 是的。
Original English
Kyra Blackwell: Yeah,
Rosie Garin: 我喜欢那个。
Original English
Rosie Garin: I love that.
Kyra Blackwell: 是的,我为你喜欢那个,Jen。非常感谢你加入我们。对我个人来说,这非常有启发性,但我希望对我们的听众也有帮助。非常感谢。
Original English
Kyra Blackwell: Yeah, I love that for you. I love that for you, Jen. Thank you so much for joining us. was very illuminating for me personally, but I hope will be helpful for our listeners, too. Thanks so much.
Jen Sullivan: 谢谢你。
Original English
Jen Sullivan: Thank you.
节目总结与学习收获
Rosie Garin: Kyra,你今天在学校学到了什么?
Original English
Rosie Garin: Kyra, what did you learn today at school?
Kyra Blackwell: 哦,天哪。嗯,我学到了我不需要湿透了才能涂润肤霜。
Original English
Kyra Blackwell: Oh my gosh. Well, I've learned that I don't have to be soaking wet to put on my moisturizer.
Rosie Garin: 不,你不需要,我的朋友。
Original English
Rosie Garin: No, you don't, my friend.
Kyra Blackwell: 我一直在挣扎。我真的有。我把水一路带到家里,因为我必须在皮肤变干之前涂润肤霜。
Original English
Kyra Blackwell: I I've been struggling. I really have. I track water all through my house cuz I got to put on my moisturizer before I dry out.
Rosie Garin: 是的。是的。所以,我会在开始我的整个护肤程序之前彻底擦干身体,我为此感到更自由。这对你来说是游戏规则改变者,伙计。
Original English
Rosie Garin: Yeah. Yeah. So, I'm going to firmly towel off before I start my entire skincare routine and I feel freer for that. It's a game changer for you, buddy.
Kyra Blackwell: 巨大的改变。你呢?
Original English
Kyra Blackwell: Huge. What about you?
Rosie Garin: 对我来说,我认为在选择润肤霜时,你要寻找保湿成分。你要寻找像吸湿剂这样的东西,它们能吸引水分,比如甘油、透明质酸。你要寻找能锁住润肤霜的封闭剂。所以,那可能是植物油和神经酰胺。然后你还要寻找润肤剂,它们能软化皮肤,比如角鲨烷。所以,那对我来说是一个很大的学习和收获。另一个让我大吃一惊的是,封闭剂不是润肤霜。
Original English
Rosie Garin: For me, I think when picking a moisturizer, you want to look for hydrating ingredients. You want to look for things like humectants, which attract moisture, so like glycerin, hyaluronic acid. You want to look for occlusives that lock in moisturizer. So, that might be plant oils and ceramides. And then you also want to look for emollient and those are going to soften skin like squalane. So that was a big learn and a big takeaway for me. The other that's sort of turning things upside down for me is that occlusives are not moisturizers.
Kyra Blackwell: 那个会一直困扰你,是吧?
Original English
Kyra Blackwell: That one's going to haunt you. Huh.
Rosie Garin: 换句话说,Aquaphor不是润肤霜。凡士林不是润肤霜。
Original English
Rosie Garin: And said in a different way, Aquaphor is not a moisturizer. Vaseline is not a moisturizer.
Kyra Blackwell: 是的。现在你知道了。如果你想了解更多关于Wirecutter的报道,如果你想查看我们关于面部润肤霜、身体乳液或Jen或Jen团队任何报道的指南,请访问我们的网站,或者你可以在节目说明中找到链接。好的,非常感谢收听。再见。
Original English
Kyra Blackwell: Yeah. Now you know. If you want to find out more about Wirecutter's coverage, if you want to check out our guides for facial moisturizer, body lotion, or any of Jen or Jen's team's reporting, head to our website or you can find a link in the show notes. All right, thanks so much for listening. Bye bye.
Rosie Garin: 我喜欢轻拍,而不是像全身擦干毛巾那样,然后我就潮湿了。
Original English
Rosie Garin: I like to pat down instead of like a like a full like a rub towel down and then I'm damp.
Kyra Blackwell: 是的。然后涂上润肤霜。
Original English
Kyra Blackwell: Yes. And then the moisturizer goes on.
Rosie Garin: 嗯,不是说有人会……
Original English
Rosie Garin: Well, not that anybody
📌 文中提及的人物和组织
公司/组织: Wirecutter
产品/模型: Augustinus Bader Rich Cream, Outset's moisturizer, Vanicream, Aquaphor, Vaseline
媒体/书籍: Fat Mascara